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  #1  
Old 07-06-2013, 02:41 PM
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Wheel bearings.

How would I know if my wheel bearings were going bad? What kind of noise would I hear?

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  #2  
Old 07-06-2013, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
How would I know if my wheel bearings were going bad? What kind of noise would I hear?
Grinding or rumble, localized to one wheel. Might happen more turning one direction than the other.
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:58 PM
ddeliber ddeliber is online now
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Originally Posted by BROOKSBC View Post
How would I know if my wheel bearings were going bad? What kind of noise would I hear?

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The noise of a bad wheel bearing is usually a result of the wheel wobbling on its axis as it rotates. However other things can cause similar noises. The best way to check is by jacking up a suspect wheel and see if it is wobbles. Grab the top and bottom and give it a push/pull.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:46 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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You'll hear a whurring sound when driving at certain speeds, turning can make the noise either louder or quieter depending on which bearing is going bad. If it's really bad, it will sound like marbles in a can or like a grinding noise.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:14 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings.

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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
You'll hear a whurring sound when driving at certain speeds, turning can make the noise either louder or quieter depending on which bearing is going bad. If it's really bad, it will sound like marbles in a can or like a grinding noise.
Is the wurring sound I hear while in motion which was my first thought that maybe they are going bad. I will have to pay attention to noises when turning. The nose I hear is only while I'm moving.

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Old 07-08-2013, 01:05 AM
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Groaning that gets higher pitched with higher road speed.

Check wheel rotation from underneath and look for wobble. Hit any potholes last winter?????

Change bearing but also get wobble removed from wheel or the new bearing will go the same way.

HTH
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2013, 01:20 AM
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Re: Wheel bearings.

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Originally Posted by Robin128 View Post
Groaning that gets higher pitched with higher road speed.

Check wheel rotation from underneath and look for wobble. Hit any potholes last winter?????

Change bearing but also get wobble removed from wheel or the new bearing will go the same way.

HTH
Get wobble removed from wheel?

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Old 07-08-2013, 05:33 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Yes you'll only hear the noise while moving at a decent speed, say over 35-40mph. You can really hear it at any time depending on how bad the bearing is.

I would have a mechanic or tech take a ride with you and you point the noise out.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:38 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings.

Anybody know where I can get a DIY for wheel bearings?

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  #10  
Old 07-14-2013, 10:43 PM
CALLAWAY845 CALLAWAY845 is offline
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My x5 would make a droning sound between 70 and 80 mph...but absolutely nothing else. The dealer dismissed it 3 different times, and even lied about putting different tires on (they said the noise went away). I know they were lying because 2 weeks afterwards, I brought to a different dealer shop, and we took a chance and changed it out...it was the bearing. My situation left none of the typical clues mentioned to your thread. Try e90post for a very comprehensive D-I-Y section.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:00 PM
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2013, 06:42 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Anybody know where I can get a DIY for wheel bearings?

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The front bearings are bolted in with 4 bolts on non-xi/xdrive models. The rears are pressed in and you need a bearing puller/press. xi/xdrive models have the front and rear bearings pressed in.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:19 AM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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Anybody know where I can get a DIY for wheel bearings?

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Front or rear?
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2013, 05:36 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings.

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Front or rear?
I haven't had a chance to put it in the air yet or have a mechanic look at it but I believe it sounds like the front

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Old 07-17-2013, 08:29 AM
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Just did my front bearings on my 330xi, and it was a pain and a half without a press. It took a good 5-6 hours just to do the left side which was messed up, the entire thing fell apart when we were trying to get it out, so that's ONE sign I suppose that it needed changing haha. You basically need to take the pads off, rotors, unplug the ABS sensor, take off the control arms and tie rod, then unscrew the top of the shocks, and pull the entire sucker out, that itself takes some time based on how snug everything is, then add in a few more hours for actually slapping the bearing out and putting a new one in, then reassembly. It's a pain...but it's not too hard, and it'll save you tons of cash tbh.

I had a humming noise and it would disappear when turning (left turn = no noise on right, vice versa).

I still have some other kind of humming noise, but I'm hoping it's my rotors (they're worn all around on car) and not something else that's annoying to get to. Next job, rear bearings..
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:06 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings.

Mechanic quoted me $330 parts and labor.

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Old 07-18-2013, 12:09 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Mechanic quoted me $330 parts and labor.

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The front bearing on an i bolts in. xi/xdrive bearings are pressed in and require more work.

I paid about $1100 at VAC Motorsports in Philly to do a rear bearing. Outer race was seized to my hub so I had to get a new hub :/

What sucks is that the bearing is like $80....
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  #18  
Old 07-18-2013, 12:09 PM
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Mechanic quoted me $330 parts and labor.

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More than 60% labor then, the parts are roughly $40 a piece, and you can do it in the comfort of your own garage. There's really nothing to go wrong, all you need is the 34mm socket to take out the screw in middle of rotor, a general socket kit with various sizes, torque wrench, and a hammer. Additionally, if you have a Dremel or equivalent, even better.

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Old 07-18-2013, 12:13 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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More than 60% labor then, the parts are roughly $40 a piece, and you can do it in the comfort of your own garage. There's really nothing to go wrong, all you need is the 34mm socket to take out the screw in middle of rotor, a general socket kit with various sizes, torque wrench, and a hammer. Additionally, if you have a Dremel or equivalent, even better.

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Where did you get a bearing that cheap? Even the aftermarket F.A.G. ones are $50-60. Yes, the company is called F.A.G
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:17 PM
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Where did you get a bearing that cheap? Even the aftermarket F.A.G. ones are $50-60. Yes, the company is called F.A.G
I know a few people (personally) , but yes, typically they're $50 (though I have found E90 bearings for $42-43 around the web), for OP, best place is here (the link is for the XI/AWD front bearing):

http://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW_XI...6783913e90.htm

$48 is a great price per bearing.

I've been familiar with the vendor for quite a bit of time, but every time I see the name on the box I get a little uneasy. Must be all this time living in America and being around the word (and not being used in reference to the vendor).
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:24 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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I know a few people (personally) , but yes, typically they're $50 (though I have found E90 bearings for $42-43 around the web), for OP, best place is here (the link is for the XI/AWD front bearing):

http://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW_XI...6783913e90.htm

$48 is a great price per bearing.

I've been familiar with the vendor for quite a bit of time, but every time I see the name on the box I get a little uneasy. Must be all this time living in America and being around the word (and not being used in reference to the vendor).
Yea in Europe I guess people don't mind as much as some do here in the US. I also thing the term doesn't have the same meaning here than it does over there.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:44 PM
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True that.

Great bearings though, work wonders, and reliable.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:22 PM
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I had to do some stress analysis on a *** brand bearing about 12 yrs ago. It's just another brand name like Timken. I don't recall the application of the bearing but it definately was a roller bearing and it had cracked at one of the individual roller holes of the race.

Last thing, *** is slang for a cigarette in UK. Those prices sound cheap. Way better deal than the current North American vehicle manufacturer way of making you buy a whole hub with bearing pressed in. I had to pay $121 per side for the truck and that was an internet price from rockauto.com. It would have cost $221 per side at Autozone. It was a Timken though complete with antilock brake sensor and cable.

I redid a Honda accord front suspension a couple years ago that had the same hub assy bs. I found that the roller bearing was sold separately at Autozone for $50 per side and it was yet again a Timken. I paid a local Indy garage to press out old ones/press in new ones for $60. Original price would have been $50 but we realized the lower ball joints needed to be pressed out and new Moog ones pressed in too. Young man was super nice and I had to drive home and get the Moogs while he waited to finish the job.

Back to the 3 series with 2 wheel drive. Are the bearings easy to remove from the front end? 34 mm socket can be "rented" for free upon return without damage. I needed this for another bearing job on girlfriend's mustang. You just pay the deposit. $10 to $12 I recall. I'll go have a look at realOEM now.

EDIT: the site software is bleeping out the brand name of the bearing with ***. I reread above the fronts are held in by 4 bolts so ignore my question pls.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 07-18-2013 at 02:27 PM.
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  #24  
Old 07-18-2013, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
I had to do some stress analysis on a *** brand bearing about 12 yrs ago. It's just another brand name like Timken. I don't recall the application of the bearing but it definately was a roller bearing and it had cracked at one of the individual roller holes of the race.

Last thing, *** is slang for a cigarette in UK. Those prices sound cheap. Way better deal than the current North American vehicle manufacturer way of making you buy a whole hub with bearing pressed in. I had to pay $121 per side for the truck and that was an internet price from rockauto.com. It would have cost $221 per side at Autozone. It was a Timken though complete with antilock brake sensor and cable.

I redid a Honda accord front suspension a couple years ago that had the same hub assy bs. I found that the roller bearing was sold separately at Autozone for $50 per side and it was yet again a Timken. I paid a local Indy garage to press out old ones/press in new ones for $60. Original price would have been $50 but we realized the lower ball joints needed to be pressed out and new Moog ones pressed in too. Young man was super nice and I had to drive home and get the Moogs while he waited to finish the job.

Back to the 3 series with 2 wheel drive. Are the bearings easy to remove from the front end? 34 mm socket can be "rented" for free upon return without damage. I needed this for another bearing job on girlfriend's mustang. You just pay the deposit. $10 to $12 I recall. I'll go have a look at realOEM now.

EDIT: the site software is bleeping out the brand name of the bearing with ***. I reread above the fronts are held in by 4 bolts so ignore my question pls.
Easy as pie, much easier than pressing (without a press) on the x-Drive models.

Here's a DIY I had bookmarked from a while back, for no reason other than curiosity: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=817925
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:47 PM
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I followed the link from post #20. I went back up in the menus so as to see parts for 2 wheel drive and walla, they sell the stupid bearing hub assys ($114) and not just the loose bearing for the front end. It does show the loose bearing for the rear wheel at about $55/corner. Here is the link showing this.
http://www.oembimmerparts.com/category_s/1984.htm

So ask yourself if the extra $59 is worth not dealing with the hassle factor of 1) trying to find the correct loose bearing and 2) taking it to an Indy shop for press out old (this is two press steps, 1st one to separate 2 halves, 2nd one to extract bearing from one of the halves) and then 2 more presses, 1st one to reinstall new bearing in one of the halves and, 2nd one to reassemble 2 halves. I paid about $30 per side to do this. You do risk damage to the parts that your bearing is being removed from. The word risk here is only mentioned as nothing is 100% foolproof. This may be moot if you can't find the loose bearing. I will go look elsewhere for loose bearing.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 07-18-2013 at 02:58 PM.
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