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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-08-2013, 05:33 PM
UltimatePeter UltimatePeter is online now
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Arrow [How To] e46 Install of Amp, Subs, Cap (on my 330xi)

Here is a video I just made for helping people out with installing Amplifier, Subwoofers, Capacitor on a BMW e46 body with the Harman Kardon Sound System.


Complete walkthrough of installing an Amp with two 12-inch Subs and a Capacitor on BMW e46 body. This will be the same for all e46 cars with the Harmon Kardon factory system included with many BMW 3 Series Models.

I believe the following are included in this group:
BMW 316 (316i, 316ti)
BMW 318 (318i, 318ci, 318ti)
BMW 320 (320i, 320ci)
BMW 323 (323i, 323ci)
BMW 325 (325i, 325xi, 325ci, 325ti)
BMW 328 (328i, 328ci)
BMW 330 (330i, 330xi, 330ci)
and BMW M3

I am performing the install on my own BMW 330xi, but as far as I am led to believe, it should be very similar or same on any e46 (correct me if I'm wrong).
I saw one other install video on Youtube for this, but it seemed to me that he rushed through it and didn't really get in depth. So, I wanted to go ahead and lay it out from A to Z.

1- Take out trunk mat, then Un-peg tray in interior left floor of trunk. Also remove two pegs from the above interior upholstery.

2- Setting up your remote wire:
-Locate Harman Kardon trunk amplifier in left of trunk, push button on bracket and pull wiring harness lever to remove massive wiring harness. (Ignore extra bundle of wires, no leads there)
-Slide two wiring harnesses (black and gray) out of bracket.
-Isolate gray wiring harness and find the fourth wire (of the small wires) which is white.
-Tap Splice the white wire with your amplifier remote wire (I think I used 16 guage tap splices).
-Feed remote wire out under upholstery and reassemble bracket/harness/upholstery/tray.

3- Connecting Line Output Converter:
-Locate secondary Harman Kardon hardware on roof of trunk.
-Slip wire bracket to the left in order to get it to come off.
-Locate wires that match colors with the wires running into opposing side speaker.
-Tap Splice those two wires as well as the ones running into the near speaker. (these should be spliced with the positive and negative for each side according to the colors for your output converter)
-Ground your output converter.
-Tuck and zip tie.

4- Hook up the Battery:
-Run Battery Positive (+) to your fuse (don't put fuse in until completely finished!)
-Run fuse to Cap Positive (+).
-Run Cap Positive to Amplifier Positive (+).
-Run Cap Negative to ground or Battery Negative (-).
-Run Amp Negative to ground or Battery Negative (-).
-Hook in remote wire (first wire we tackled on Harman Kardon Amp) to your amp.
-Run RCA cables from Output Converter to amp.
-Run speaker wire from amp to your sub/subs.
-Put fuse back in.

Note: My subs were dual voice-coil and I ran them in daisy chain, so I could run the amp bridged and then get my Ohms split in half.
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2013, 06:19 PM
jvr826's Avatar
jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatePeter View Post
3- Connecting Line Output Converter:
-Locate secondary Harman Kardon hardware on roof of trunk.
-Slip wire bracket to the left in order to get it to come off.
-Locate wires that match colors with the wires running into opposing side speaker.
-Tap Splice those two wires as well as the ones running into the near speaker. (these should be spliced with the positive and negative for each side according to the colors for your output converter)

-Ground your output converter.
-Tuck and zip tie.
So, there's one slight problem with where you're getting the input signal for your new sub/amp... you're tapping into a post-amplifier connection that is frequency limited. There's an article in The WIKI that explains that the stock amp filters the frequencies and sends specific ranges to each speaker in the car separately.

It may work, but you may also be losing some frequencies you don't want to lose. Personally, I'd tap into the pre-amp signal from the "head unit" instead. This way your LOC and new amp get all the frequencies and you decide how you want them filtered by setting the crossover point on the amp.

YMMV of course.
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  #3  
Old 07-09-2013, 07:25 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
So, there's one slight problem with where you're getting the input signal for your new sub/amp... you're tapping into a post-amplifier connection that is frequency limited. There's an article in The WIKI that explains that the stock amp filters the frequencies and sends specific ranges to each speaker in the car separately.

It may work, but you may also be losing some frequencies you don't want to lose. Personally, I'd tap into the pre-amp signal from the "head unit" instead. This way your LOC and new amp get all the frequencies and you decide how you want them filtered by setting the crossover point on the amp.

YMMV of course.
He's only adding a sub. As long as he grabs the correct channel, he'll be fine.

I'm not positive on how the E46 H/K system is setup but in E9x models, the connection from the HU to the amp in the H/K L7 system is over a digital, fiber optic connection. So you have to tap the channel after the amp. Otherwise, you need to recode the HU from Top-Hifi to Hifi which will put out an analog output from the back of the HU.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 07-09-2013 at 03:11 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-10-2013, 09:19 AM
UltimatePeter UltimatePeter is online now
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Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
 
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Cool Phase two

Hey guys,
I really do appreciate the feedback, because I want to do this right.
So, I had plans to probably switch the Output Converter to Pre-amp...

But now my stereo tinkering is moving into phase II...

I pulled the dash and was working on putting in the AUX cable for my phone because I can't very well continue to lug around a case of CDs like this is 1997! Lol.
I pulled my head unit out, and found that I don't even have an Aux hookup, doh!
So, I bought a pioneer head that has bluetooth and can be set for amber LED glow.
Now I'm just waiting for the Fit-Kit and wiring harness. Have read that I just need to make sure to hook the remote wire to the power antenna cable... and sometime in the future I will plan on getting the retrofit for the steering wheel controls.
Anyway, this head will allow me to run the straight RCAs from the front, and I can also split frequencies.... Planning to run everything below 80hz to the sub and everything above to the harman kardon, hope it works well. I will probably video some of it, and give updates.
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3 series, 323, 325, 328, 330, amp, amplifier, audio, bass, cap, diy, e46, harman kardon, subs, subwoofer


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