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F10 / F11 (2011 - Current)
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  #1  
Old 07-14-2013, 10:21 PM
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Blue Smoke from exhaust

I found an interesting notation while reading the BMW N63 Engine - Technical Training Workbook (Page 20)

Note: If the exhaust system produces blue smoke, it is necessary to check whether the engine is also drawing oil into the combustion chamber through the crankcase breather, which suggest that there is a fault in the area of the crankcase breather. A clear sign of a problem is an oiled up clean-air pipe.
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2013, 10:41 PM
Bmwlvr60 Bmwlvr60 is offline
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White Smoke = New Pope
Black Smoke = Still Deciding
Didn't know what Blue Smoke meant- new one for me
;-)
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bmwlvr60 View Post
White Smoke = New Pope
Black Smoke = Still Deciding
Didn't know what Blue Smoke meant- new one for me
;-)
I don't understand what you're saying or asking (New Pope ?)
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:10 AM
ae86pwr ae86pwr is offline
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People have been using oil catch cans to avoid burning oil blow pass.
See the attached product blog post:

http://blog.bavauto.com/9477/bmw-n62...i-750li-x5-x6/

and

http://blog.bavauto.com/13526/bmw-n5...35i-335i-535i/
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  #5  
Old 07-17-2013, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae86pwr View Post
People have been using oil catch cans to avoid burning oil blow pass. See the attached product blog post:
http://blog.bavauto.com/9477/bmw-n62...i-750li-x5-x6/
and http://blog.bavauto.com/13526/bmw-n5...35i-335i-535i/
Yes - but what happens when they go for their Smog Inspection when the emissions have been modified. Does the vehicle owner have to go to the arbitrator for approval?
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:44 PM
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Does the catch can need to be emptied manually?
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  #7  
Old 07-18-2013, 08:26 AM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donm View Post
Does the catch can need to be emptied manually?
Yes they do. But it's not something you need to empty all the time either. Most people check them once a month or so. However the catch cans we carry are currently only available for N54 and N55 engines. Our blog post for the stock system was referring to the N62 engine which has replacement valves available. And we sell a lot of them. But on the OP's N63 the crankcase vent valves are built into the valve covers. So to replace one you have to replace the entire valve cover which is currently $370.95 a side. Hopefully it will be a more reliable setup than they used in the past.
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  #8  
Old 07-18-2013, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken@BavAuto View Post
Yes they do. But it's not something you need to empty all the time either. Most people check them once a month or so. However the catch cans we carry are currently only available for N54 and N55 engines. Our blog post for the stock system was referring to the N62 engine which has replacement valves available. And we sell a lot of them. But on the OP's N63 the crankcase vent valves are built into the valve covers. So to replace one you have to replace the entire valve cover which is currently $370.95 a side. Hopefully it will be a more reliable setup than they used in the past.
The valve is serviceable (oil/air cyclone) on the N63 when cover is removed - I'm not sue on the N62 (see attached page 20)

http://prodcds.bmwuniversity.com/lib...0Engine_WB.pdf

Last edited by A B Able Truck; 07-18-2013 at 11:14 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #9  
Old 07-18-2013, 11:39 AM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
The valve is serviceable (oil/air cyclone) on the N63 when cover is removed - I'm not sue on the N62 (see attached page 20)

http://prodcds.bmwuniversity.com/lib...0Engine_WB.pdf
The N62 has a removable valve on the top of each valve cover.

Page 20 in that document explains how it works on the N63 and it clearly shows bolts. However I'm not seeing any individual parts of the system besides hoses being available on the ETK. There could be some things listed in the service system that don't show up on the ETK I'm looking at though.
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  #10  
Old 07-18-2013, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken@BavAuto View Post
The N62 has a removable valve on the top of each valve cover.
Page 20 in that document explains how it works on the N63 and it clearly shows bolts. However I'm not seeing any individual parts of the system besides hoses being available on the ETK. There could be some things listed in the service system that don't show up on the ETK I'm looking at though.
I have an N62TU - had oil consumption & smoke issues until I fixed ?? (bandaid) My question is if I were to pull the valve covers - could I clean the cyclone ports (serviceable)? The picture for the N63 shows that it can be disassembled - can the N62 ??
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  #11  
Old 07-18-2013, 12:26 PM
Ken@BavAuto Ken@BavAuto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
I have an N62TU - had oil consumption & smoke issues until I fixed ?? (bandaid) My question is if I were to pull the valve covers - could I clean the cyclone ports (serviceable)? The picture for the N63 shows that it can be disassembled - can the N62 ??
I haven't heard of anyone taking apart the valves on the N62. What usually seems to fail is breather valve right on the top of the valve cover and they aren't terribly expensive to just replace. Part number is 11 12 7 547 058 and they are in stock for $21.95 each. These are an updated design over what likely came on your car and one is needed per valve cover. It's what we covered in the blog post but we didn't specifically label it as being for N62TU.

http://blog.bavauto.com/9477/bmw-n62...i-750li-x5-x6/
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  #12  
Old 07-18-2013, 02:01 PM
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The bad diaphragms will cause a vacuum leak (won't suck oil) But if the cyclones are dirty (theory is) they would become ineffective at separating the oil from air causing excessive oil consumption/smoke.

Last edited by A B Able Truck; 07-18-2013 at 02:01 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:59 AM
FREE100KSECRET FREE100KSECRET is offline
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2003 X5 Suddenly Blowing Smoke Out Driver Side Exhaust

Curious,

All of a sudden one morning when I started car, below freezing, it started to blow smoke and oil residue out driver side exhaust. What is strange is it runs OK, just smokes, and it went through a couple quarts while I was trying to see what was wrong while running at idle, actually dripping oil out exhaust tips? Is it safe to drive it to shop, or not. Of course, I will keep an eye on oil level, but can I drive car with dip stick out to relieve vacuum pressure even if it runs rough at idle?

Thanks,
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FREE100KSECRET View Post
Curious,

All of a sudden one morning when I started car, below freezing, it started to blow smoke and oil residue out driver side exhaust. What is strange is it runs OK, just smokes, and it went through a couple quarts while I was trying to see what was wrong while running at idle, actually dripping oil out exhaust tips? Is it safe to drive it to shop, or not. Of course, I will keep an eye on oil level, but can I drive car with dip stick out to relieve vacuum pressure even if it runs rough at idle?

Thanks,
If oil is dripping out the exhaust & using a couple qts. while you're looking at it - STOP THE ENGINE - DO NOT DRIVE
It will hydrolock

Last edited by A B Able Truck; 02-20-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2014, 02:51 PM
FREE100KSECRET FREE100KSECRET is offline
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Thanks,

So what is hydrolock technically speaking, never heard that term before. What causes this, the infamous condensation freeze in CCV hose, and if so, will it melt down now that weather is above freezing?

Thanks,
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2014, 04:39 PM
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What engine do you have? The N62 normally won't suck that much oil thru the engine. Hydrolock is when the valves are closed - the cylinder has either water and/or oil in it and the piston pushes against the fluid with no where to go.
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2014, 04:50 PM
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Fun video on the 6 cyl. issue;



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  #18  
Old 02-20-2014, 05:20 PM
FREE100KSECRET FREE100KSECRET is offline
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It is 4.4 V-8 and I changed oil every 5K with full synthetic 10-30W. I checked it out a little closer, and it runs great, check engine light is on, didn't check codes yet, but smokes like crazy out driver side. Most cars would be missing like crazy with that much oil being burned, so it must not be fowling plugs, but maybe on exhaust side, don't know the internal vacuum feeds if it is sucking up oil. Sure is strange. Am going to check and replace CCV valves and hoses and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks,
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2014, 10:18 PM
setx307 setx307 is offline
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Blue smoke 745Li

Quote:
Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
I found an interesting notation while reading the BMW N63 Engine - Technical Training Workbook (Page 20)

Note: If the exhaust system produces blue smoke, it is necessary to check whether the engine is also drawing oil into the combustion chamber through the crankcase breather, which suggest that there is a fault in the area of the crankcase breather. A clear sign of a problem is an oiled up clean-air pipe.
Thanks A B For the photos of the make shift oil catch can with the clear tubing. I put it together today and it stopped smoking. My wife kept wanting to get another engine. Has been smoking like that for a year. Thanks to you, no more smoke. Greatly appreciated. I recommend everyone try this before replacing the Valve Stems.
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2014, 07:34 AM
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Bmw x-5 e53 4.4 smoking issues easily solved

Update:

Well, given the severe smoking issue I had back in Feb., and having researched problem through every source I could find, here is what I found. I replaced the crankcase valve at rear of intake, and broke it open to check it out, was clean, no issue with runner or splits causing air leak. I replaced seperator, no issues, it was clean and free of any oil sludge. I ran wire down oil drain to pan, came out clean. So the only problem that caused this severe oil consumption and smoking issue were the two top back crankcase hoses which were totally clogged and patially collapsed as the vacuum was adequate enough to draw in oil to intake manifold.

Anyone who has looked at how difficult it is to change out the crankcase valve and seperator with nearly no clearance to reconnect hoses knows if you checked it out on your own vehicle, lesson learned, always replace these top two CV hoses first. Now here is another lesson, if vehicle continues to smoke after changing out hoses, not to worry, I had to drive over a hundred miles before smoke stopped coming out exhaust. I thought I had bigger problems, but the vehicle ran beatiful, always did, even with collapses clogges hoses, through no codes, nothing. So here is how I happened to stumble onto the residual smoke issue. I had noticed it would only smoke when totally warmed up, so as I was checking the oil drips coming out of exhaust still, and I heard a sizzling sound after turning off motor, sure enough, it dawned on me, all that oil that was being sucked into intake was evidently not all being burned, but just blown out the exhaust and collecting in mufflers, left side the most for some reason I have not been able to determine. Must have something to do with intake manifold plenum where rear of manifold must favor left exhaust side is more direct flow of oil.

Anyway, the smoking slowly deminished after just over a hundred miles of driving at full operating temperatures. I ran Lucas injection and valve cleaning additive for last few months every other tank to insure any of this carbon oil burning damage was removed, again, vehicle always ran perfect, so very strange how oil was not actually getting burned in engine, but was just being sucked into manifold and then somehow getting into exhaust and mufflers. Never missed a beat, nor did it trip O2 sensor codes, very strange, but felt I wanted to insure no oil carbon built up in heads or valvetrain.

So lesson learned, if you are inclined to take vehicle to dealer when is it smoking severely, but running fine, they will try to hit you for a $2000. repair which in most cases is BS. Yes, I replaced more than I had to, but since I was so deep into repair, it didn't make sense to me to leave CV and seperator in, so I changed both, and since it was only about $100. my time was worth more, so took care of all components at once. The two hoses, plus smaller return hose which runs under manifold at rear going to oil pan was also replaced, although no in same condition as the larger two hoses which collapsed. Save yourself a ton of money and replace them yourself first, not last like I did not checking into inside of hoses until after replacing everything else. Should have looked closer to save hours of labor and extra costs, but hey, now I know where I stand and don't expect another problem for years.

Happily the vehicle suffered no long term damage from all that oil sucked into exhaust system, it evidently is a strait shot to exhaust, not entering intake manifold into pistons or fouling plugs, still can't figure that one out, but hey, I am just glad I solved problem for under $200. saving $1800. from indy shop quote. Who wouldn't want to save this money for a few hours worth of labor, and I did not remove intake manifold as Indy or dealers say must be done, which I am sure is adding a couple more hours to job. It is tight, but it can be done with a lot of patience. So in conclusion, if your bimmer is smoking like the old mosquito sprayers of days gone by, then check these two hoses first, they are so pliable that I can see why they will collapse with slightest sludge build up, so don't be fooled if hoses look normal, when engine is running you can see them collapse from vacuum.

As a side note, you must check out this new NanoTech engine additive treatment. My other bimmer was smoking when after more than a minute at idle, common problem, I used this new Ceramic Nano Tech additive and it stopped smoke in less than 500 miles, and it has been smoke free for past six months, another thing that drives millions crazy as valve oil seals is even more expensive from stealers, close to $3000. I am all about saving when I can and I never trust stealers and sadly, my long time mechanic moved to FL and can't find another who I can trust. Live and learn, so check this out, unbelievable line of products, a paint protective product which dirt and water spots from hard water washes just runs off. No more brake dust collects on wheels, just blows off or depending on airflow, you may have to hose off intricate allow wheel designs. Overall, this is the biggest time saver of all, makes keeping your bimmer or any car in tip top condition and clean as new with only one application. Check it out at CERACOAT-NANOTECH.com and you can even become a free distributor.

Good luck to all,
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  #21  
Old 11-29-2014, 11:57 AM
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I would like to hear some testimonial on the wheel care product, too bad it won't be available for a few weeks!
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Old 11-29-2014, 07:03 PM
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Yes, I got samples, applied it in August to wheels on my X5 and I was amazed, the brake dust use to collect after even 20 miles of around town driving, and special brushes were the only way to keep them clean. Now, hardly any brake dust collects, unless in a few areas around valve stem and inside lug nut holes since air does not pass through these areas. No worry, just with a hose they wash clean, no more harsh cleaners or hours wasted cleaning off brake dust. It is suppose to last a couple years, but I would be happy if it lasts even one year. Easy to apply, just like a liquid polish, except very little is needed since it is nano tech, fills in holes we cannot see. Super slck finish is science behind product, and it is non-toxic and safe to use, no gloves required unlike other sealers out there. Another week they go retail wholesale to public.
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Old 11-29-2014, 08:24 PM
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I was on your site looking for your product's "contact angle" (a measure of hydrophobia) and the numbers of your claimed international patents - not surprisingly, neither of these could be found. But I did find this hilarious, short-legged pyramid scheme:



Please tell me you're kidding.
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  #24  
Old 12-01-2014, 06:52 PM
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Yeah, new poster with something to sell.
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Last edited by Donm; 12-06-2014 at 05:41 PM.
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