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F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:08 AM
Alan L. Alan L. is offline
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New LCI 550 N63tu - Technical Specs

Some interesting information I've come across on what changed between the old N63 V8 used in the 11-13 550's vs the N63TU (Technical Update) engine in the LCI 550.

According to my friend who is a tech at Bmw all N63's drink oil like crazy. The reason behind it is due to emissions regulation according to a engineer over at Bmw. Bmw used specific piston rings which allows more oil to seep through and they supposidly revised that somewhat on the newer N63tu motor. He told me the newer motor doesn't drink as much oil as the old one but still expect to top off in between oil changes. Bmw considers this behavior "normal".

http://prodcds.bmwuniversity.com/lib...U%20Engine.pdf

Looks like they changed quite a bit with the new motor including new pistons/rings, turbochargers, valvetronic cylinder heads to name a few.

Really excited to try out this V8 when my new F10 arrives. I've test driven the new 650GC with it and it is a beast but one thing that I didn't like was there is a initial delay during take off. There is a slight split second delay from when you push the throttle down to the floor before it would take off like a bat out of hell. My silky smooth N55 did not do this and power (although not as much) was immediate.

Alan
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:21 AM
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dunderhi dunderhi is offline
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Thanks for the new reading material.

Unfortunately, some 650 owners are finding the new motor still drinks a lot of oil for which BMW is now recommending adding two quarts when the motor is down one.

As time goes on, I'm becoming more of a proponent for a hard break-in to reduce the oil consumption. Well on the other hand, it could be that I'm just lucky. Either way, my second oil change on my 550 went the full 17kmi without an add and my 650 is looking pretty good at this point.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:28 AM
Alan L. Alan L. is offline
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^^ did you do the same hard break in for both the 550 and 650?

I've always done a mix with my cars. Baby it most of the time but I do take it to redline during break in. My old N54 335 did drink oil though. Not much but every 1-2K miles i would have to put in half a quart.

Alan
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:34 AM
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New LCI 550 N63tu - Technical Specs

I have the n63tu as well, almost 5k miles and it hasn't asked for any oil yet.

Also have the initial throttle delay after that its warp 9...


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  #5  
Old 07-15-2013, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L. View Post
^^ did you do the same hard break in for both the 550 and 650?

I've always done a mix with my cars. Baby it most of the time but I do take it to redline during break in. My old N54 335 did drink oil though. Not much but every 1-2K miles i would have to put in half a quart.

Alan
Both cars were pretty much the same philosophy, drive the engine under load for most of the first hundred miles or so. For my 335d, my entire ED was only 38 miles, but it spent half of them above 120mph. So, a high speed trip down the Autobahn with numerous three-quarter throttle accelerations (to prevent multigear kick-downs) from 80-130/150mph seems to work for me. IMHO, redlining lining should only be done under a full load where it takes a few seconds to reach the redline. This should hold true at any point in an engine's life.

For the cautious or safety minded folks out there, yes I agree with BMW's lawyers that there is some inherent danger in breaking in a car in this manner, so I will caution everyone to follow your owners manuals and not what you read on the internet.
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2013, 07:16 PM
Alan L. Alan L. is offline
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Just spent some time skimming through the technical training document and learned a couple of interesting facts about the engine. Some of this may also apply towards the N63 but mainly applies towards the updated N63tu motor.

N63tu has a new cylinder head with Valvetronic Direct Injection

Vanos system is derived from the N55 engine

N63TU had new cast piston made by Mahle

N63TU has new forged connecting rods and crankshaft

Engine has its own oil catch can system where it drains excess oil back into the oil pan

Uses Bosch fuel injectors and pump from the N55 and N20

No longer uses blow off valves in the N63TU

There is two DME (ECU) one on each side of the motor

It has two separate cooling systems. One to cool the air to water intercoolers and both DME's with its own secondary radiator while the second main one cools the engine/turbo chargers. Even the DME's has coolant lines going into them!

There is a traditional mechanical coolant pump and also an additional electric coolant pump.

The electric pump can run up to 30mins max after the engine is shut off

Electrical fan can run up to 11mins max after the engine is shut off

The N63TU has revised turbos with more turbine blades

Thats all i remember for now and those are the key interesting stuff for me. Hopefully this updated motor solved some of the earlier issues that the 550's had revolving around the fuel system and burning tons of oil in-between oil changes.

Alan
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:57 PM
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My 550 needs oil top off almost every 1500 miles.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L. View Post
Just spent some time skimming through the technical training document and learned a couple of interesting facts about the engine. Some of this may also apply towards the N63 but mainly applies towards the updated N63tu motor.

N63tu has a new cylinder head with Valvetronic Direct Injection

Vanos system is derived from the N55 engine

N63TU had new cast piston made by Mahle

N63TU has new forged connecting rods and crankshaft

Engine has its own oil catch can system where it drains excess oil back into the oil pan

Uses Bosch fuel injectors and pump from the N55 and N20

No longer uses blow off valves in the N63TU

There is two DME (ECU) one on each side of the motor

It has two separate cooling systems. One to cool the air to water intercoolers and both DME's with its own secondary radiator while the second main one cools the engine/turbo chargers. Even the DME's has coolant lines going into them!

There is a traditional mechanical coolant pump and also an additional electric coolant pump.

The electric pump can run up to 30mins max after the engine is shut off

Electrical fan can run up to 11mins max after the engine is shut off

The N63TU has revised turbos with more turbine blades

Thats all i remember for now and those are the key interesting stuff for me. Hopefully this updated motor solved some of the earlier issues that the 550's had revolving around the fuel system and burning tons of oil in-between oil changes.

Alan
Pretty cool. Do you think the exhaust note is more aggressive on the M Sport than the previous years?
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2013, 04:33 AM
Alan L. Alan L. is offline
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In regards to burning oil this is very common with the N63 according to my friend who works as a tech with BMW. He said the updated motor doesn't burn as much but still does. BMW considers this normal behavior when he spoke to their engineer about it. Said it was done on purpose for emissions reasons but I don't see the connection between the two.

When I had the 650GC with this new engine I did notice that both the engine and exhaust sounded really deep and aggressive in that car. It was loud enough that I thought the car had active sound like the M5's but 6 series members said the car didn't have it. If the LCI 550 sounded like how the 650GC did I wouldn't even need an aftermarket exhaust system.

Alan
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:34 AM
jjsC6 jjsC6 is offline
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Interesting. My 2012 550 went almost 12,000 miles before needing a quart of oil.
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  #11  
Old 07-20-2013, 09:46 AM
sb535 sb535 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L. View Post
In regards to burning oil this is very common with the N63 according to my friend who works as a tech with BMW. He said the updated motor doesn't burn as much but still does. BMW considers this normal behavior when he spoke to their engineer about it. Said it was done on purpose for emissions reasons but I don't see the connection between the two.

When I had the 650GC with this new engine I did notice that both the engine and exhaust sounded really deep and aggressive in that car. It was loud enough that I thought the car had active sound like the M5's but 6 series members said the car didn't have it. If the LCI 550 sounded like how the 650GC did I wouldn't even need an aftermarket exhaust system.

Alan
I hope you are right about the exhaust, both the 650 and the 650GC sound much better than the five. I have asked this question in the past and I do recall someone mentioning that the 650 has a different exhaust system so the change to the "Tu" engine may not matter.....I really hope I am wrong
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:00 AM
Kar Don Kar Don is offline
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New LCI 550 N63tu - Technical Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisF01 View Post
I have the n63tu as well, almost 5k miles and it hasn't asked for any oil yet.

Also have the initial throttle delay after that its warp 9...


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Hmm weren't you saying a month or so ago how great the 8spd trans was and had no delayed response? My N63 is still at max oil level since its oil change 4k miles ago


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  #13  
Old 07-21-2013, 03:33 PM
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Ace535i Ace535i is offline
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Alan, what are you going to do with your current ride when you get the 2014 550i?

Look like you did a lot of eye-popping mods.
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:49 PM
Alan L. Alan L. is offline
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Transferring almost everything over to the new car. Going to look pretty much the same just only much much faster
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:56 PM
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AntDX316 AntDX316 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L. View Post
Just spent some time skimming through the technical training document and learned a couple of interesting facts about the engine. Some of this may also apply towards the N63 but mainly applies towards the updated N63tu motor.

N63tu has a new cylinder head with Valvetronic Direct Injection

Vanos system is derived from the N55 engine

N63TU had new cast piston made by Mahle

N63TU has new forged connecting rods and crankshaft

Engine has its own oil catch can system where it drains excess oil back into the oil pan

Uses Bosch fuel injectors and pump from the N55 and N20

No longer uses blow off valves in the N63TU

There is two DME (ECU) one on each side of the motor

It has two separate cooling systems. One to cool the air to water intercoolers and both DME's with its own secondary radiator while the second main one cools the engine/turbo chargers. Even the DME's has coolant lines going into them!

There is a traditional mechanical coolant pump and also an additional electric coolant pump.

The electric pump can run up to 30mins max after the engine is shut off

Electrical fan can run up to 11mins max after the engine is shut off

The N63TU has revised turbos with more turbine blades

Thats all i remember for now and those are the key interesting stuff for me. Hopefully this updated motor solved some of the earlier issues that the 550's had revolving around the fuel system and burning tons of oil in-between oil changes.

Alan
Damn.. if people only new about the N63TU engine the resell value would go for a lot higher.

Someone else put this stuff.

Engine mechanical
• New cylinder head due to use of the Turbo Valvetronic Direct Injection (TVDI) procedure
• 3rd generation Valvetronic
• New valvetrain with modified timing
• Adoption of VANOS from the N55 engine
• New cylinder head cover with adapted crankcase ventilation
• Pistons with modified piston crown geometry
• New connecting rod with even pitch and adaptation of the crankcase due to modified connecting rod shape
• Adapted crankshaft
• Chain drive with modified guide rails and an extruded chain with 142 elements.

Oil supply
• Pendulum slide cell pump with small overall width
• Eight individual oil spray nozzles for piston crown cooling.

Cooling
• Integration of the two engine control units in the low-temperature circuit and cooling over the back panel with cooling pipe
• Expansion tank under the left side wall with separate filling hopper.

Intake and exhaust emission systems
• Adaptation of the manifold for the air intake duct due to new geometry of the cylinder head cover
• Use of the hot film air mass meter 7
• Adoption of the charge air temperature and intake-manifold pressure sensor from the N20 engine
• Exhaust turbocharger with new compressor and modified wastegate valves
• Discontinuation of the blow-off valves.

Vacuum system
• Two-stage vacuum pump with new arrangement of the bolt connection
• Vacuum reservoir for the wastegate valves in the V-area of the engine.

Fuel preparation
• Use of the known high-pressure injection with injectors and high pressure pump HDP5
• Discontinuation of fuel low-pressure sensor

Engine management system
• New dual control unit concept with one control unit per bank
• Oil level sensor with an additional temperature sensor in the main oil duct behind the starter motor.


What you put is more than what they put. I mean.. the N63T is used in 2016s so it seems like 2013 for the 7 is where it started and 2014 for the rest but I haven't looking into the rest. I was looking into the 3rd generation Valvetronic and thought it was cool. It seems better than ITB's but no one really mentioned ITB's anywhere at this level. ITB's were on Honda's to run NA, naturally aspirated, all motor 400+ HP running 10s on the quarter because of their chassis weight.
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  #16  
Old 08-26-2016, 06:33 AM
Andrew - 550i Andrew - 550i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjsC6 View Post
Interesting. My 2012 550 went almost 12,000 miles before needing a quart of oil.
My 2012 550 goes about 7,500 before needing a top off and between 7,500 and 10,000 needs a quart every month or so. So it would appear to my untrained intuition that the oil should be changed at 7,500 like just about every other car that uses synthetic oil.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:15 PM
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ezaircon4jc ezaircon4jc is offline
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Originally Posted by Andrew - 550i View Post
My 2012 550 goes about 7,500 before needing a top off and between 7,500 and 10,000 needs a quart every month or so. So it would appear to my untrained intuition that the oil should be changed at 7,500 like just about every other car that uses synthetic oil.
Except most every other car that uses full synthetic says every 12K-15K miles. Amsoil recommends (or at least used to) 25K miles; as did Mobil1 when it first came out.

Maybe the difference is true synthetic doesn't mean true synthetic since Castrol sued over the definition of "synthetic".

Quote:
n the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.

Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.

One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.

Remember:

AMSOIL is a Group IV True PAO 100% synthetic oil.

These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.

Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.

Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. Oils like Royal Purple and Redline are Group V oils. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.

Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks.

REMEMBER:

Castrol Syntec is a Group III (fake) synthetic.
AMSOIL is a Group IV True PAO synthetic.
From http://www.dodgedakota.net/boards/v6/15817.html
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