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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2013, 01:06 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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Mein Auto: 88 325is
Unhappy No start HELP Please!

First off, the car is an 88 325is.
Was driving down the interstate (going about 105 for a Very short while) when, suddenly, i lost power.
Now the car will not start.
I am an absolute beginner at working on cars (though as much as this car breaks down i'm sure i'll eventually be a pro).
I don't know where to even begin trouble shooting.
It's also throwing an AFM code? (1215)

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm ready to be done riding this scooter aound
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:31 PM
actletpone actletpone is offline
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When you say it lost power do you mean electrical? did the motor cut out??
As you mention the afm trouble code I am guessing the car has power now. When you say it does not start does the engine turn over when you try to start it?

Last edited by actletpone; 07-15-2013 at 07:34 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:40 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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I suppose power was the wrong word. The electronics never stopped working.
It is turning over.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:21 PM
actletpone actletpone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikkiH225 View Post
I suppose power was the wrong word. The electronics never stopped working.
It is turning over.
Remove the oil filler cap, try to start it, can you see the parts e.g rocker arms moving?
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:30 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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Yes they are.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:34 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by actletpone View Post
Remove the oil filler cap, try to start it, can you see the parts e.g rocker arms moving?
Well, i thought they were moving. It is extremely hard to see right now though.
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:37 PM
actletpone actletpone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikkiH225 View Post
Yes they are.
That's good timing belt is ok then. Wiggle and play around with the plug going to the afm then see if it will start. Might be a loose connection.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:33 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by actletpone View Post
That's good timing belt is ok then. Wiggle and play around with the plug going to the afm then see if it will start. Might be a loose connection.
I was so.....so wrong. They are definitely not moving. ::sigh::
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:38 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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At minimum the valves are bent and/or broken. The only way you'll find out is to pull the head. Take the rocker cover off first, and look at the rockers. If you have a bunch of busted ones, there's not much use in going further. It will mean the cam drive belt broke at something more than idle speed, and it's probably not worth taking apart. Just find a good used engine to replace it and swap it out. You can buy a running M20 engine MUCH cheaper than repairing what you have.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2013, 08:01 AM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
At minimum the valves are bent and/or broken. The only way you'll find out is to pull the head. Take the rocker cover off first, and look at the rockers. If you have a bunch of busted ones, there's not much use in going further. It will mean the cam drive belt broke at something more than idle speed, and it's probably not worth taking apart. Just find a good used engine to replace it and swap it out. You can buy a running M20 engine MUCH cheaper than repairing what you have.
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2013, 04:46 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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With only one rocker broken, I'd pull the head and see how bad it is inside. You may have dodged a bullet. The head's definitely going to have to be reworked, but it may be salvageable. If the piston isn't dinged too bad, that is.

Rule #1 for owners of M20-equipped vehicles: CHANGE THE CAM DRIVE BELT ON TIME (every 60k or 5 years). Broken cam drive belts are the #1 killer of M20s.
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #12  
Old 07-16-2013, 04:55 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
With only one rocker broken, I'd pull the head and see how bad it is inside. You may have dodged a bullet. The head's definitely going to have to be reworked, but it may be salvageable. If the piston isn't dinged too bad, that is..
I've got another m20 available to me for about $150. Doubtful I'd be able to repair mine for anything near that, correct?
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  #13  
Old 07-17-2013, 02:34 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is offline
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Question Repair or replace

If the M20is in good condition, it is worth it
But if you cannot get a apraisal on it, then you are replacing a known entity with a unknown
Do you want to keep the car for some years to come, or just get it running & sell it ?
Everything in life has a sell-by date so figure that into your plans
& if you are going the replace route, I would look at putting in a later multivalve motor
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2013, 07:09 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikkiH225 View Post
I've got another m20 available to me for about $150. Doubtful I'd be able to repair mine for anything near that, correct?
True. The head inspection/rework alone is going to cost several times that much. For the simplest plug-and-play swap, stay with the same engine (M20B25) Make sure what you're considering buying is an "i" engine, the same as what you have. "2.5" cast on the block, "885" casting number on the head. If you inadvertently get an "e" you'll have to swap the engine wiring harness and ECU also, and you'll lose about 30 hp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick323 View Post
If the M20is in good condition, it is worth it
^This
__________________
Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 07-17-2013 at 07:10 AM.
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  #15  
Old 07-17-2013, 03:37 PM
NikkiH225 NikkiH225 is offline
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It's in decent condition. Came out of another 325is. I want to keep the car, at least until I find one that's in better condition (mine is slightly hail damaged). I think I'm gonna just swap it for now. What unfortunate timing (heh).
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  #16  
Old 07-23-2013, 07:50 AM
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toybuilder toybuilder is offline
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Before you swap it put new seals in the motor ,3 front and rear main replace the oil pan gasket and a new timing belt and water pump all this is much easier with the motor out of the car or you may be back next week telling everyone about how bad your new engine is .
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2013, 01:20 AM
Billwill Billwill is online now
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Mein Auto: BMW E30 318i 1991
Quote:
Originally Posted by toybuilder View Post
Before you swap it put new seals in the motor ,3 front and rear main replace the oil pan gasket and a new timing belt and water pump all this is much easier with the motor out of the car or you may be back next week telling everyone about how bad your new engine is .

This^^^^ is very good advice
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