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Dash Indicators: Turn Signal and Sound, Fog Light, High Beams not working

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77K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  tdube650  
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#1 ·
Geez, if it's not one thing it's another...

Now my dash board indicator lights for the turn signals, the sounds for the turn signals, the fog lights, and the high beam no longer work. The actual lights and switches themselves work. All other indicator lights are functional and there are no known other electrical issues with the car.

I read about issues involving the K-bus can take a whole slew of systems down, but again, my issue is strictly isolated to the turn signal, fog, and high beam lights. Reviewing the oversimplified electrical schematic of the K-bus doesn't indicate this could be the source of the issue.

I haven't tried troubleshooting just yet, hoping there would be guidance from members on where to start.
 
#2 ·
Try the poor mans coding trick. This has worked for LCM issues for me in the past, might be worth a shot. Disconnect your battery for 20 minutes, then use a wrench and short the positive and negative cables together (not while attached to the battery). This will reset the LCM and might just bring your car back to life. Best of all, it is free. :thumbup:

Good luck!
 
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#5 ·
The battery looks new and I have no other issues electrically with the car.

I checked the error codes and BMW Scanner cannot located the LCM (Light Control Module). The IKS (Instrument Cluster Electronics) has 3 errors, which are BE [190] Data-filling difference to central light module (LCM), CE [206] Outside-temperature sensor, and 87 [135] Body bus (K-bus).

So there is something preventing proper communications with the LCM (loose wire or bad LCM). Researching the LCM indicates an LCM must be "matched" (programmed) to the car; a used LCM will result in a tamper-warning red dot next to the mileage (what is the purpose for ensuring the LCM is matched???), but it seems BMW Scanner can be used to properly "program" any used LCM to prevent this from happening.

This sucker seems to be pretty expensive (~$350 from online vendors).
 
#6 ·
My 9 year old battery looked new when it finally died. They don't crud up in the trunk like under the hood. Look for a date, or if its a "BMW" battery then most likely its original. Autozone will test it for free.
 
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#9 · (Edited)
I finally got to checking this wiring to the junction block with my new fangled testing probes (insulation-piercing clamps) and it turned out to be a bad wire between the LCM and the junction block.

I have no idea what could have damaged this one wire as there are no other electrical issues. The only "electrical" work I did recently before was replacing the FSR, but I can't believe that doing that work could have damaged just the LCM K-bus wire to the junction block. :dunno:

I ended up jumping a 22 AWG between the LCM connector and the junction block and all is well once again. :)

The car is now ready to be sold as I've since bought a 2008 335i Sport and am loving' the newer E90!
 
#21 ·
Augster said:
I finally got to checking this wiring to the junction block with my new fangled testing probes (insulation-piercing clamps) and it turned out to be a bad wire between the LCM and the junction block. I have no idea what could have damaged this one wire as there are no other electrical issues. The only "electrical" work I did recently before was replacing the FSR, but I can't believe that doing that work could have damaged just the LCM K-bus wire to the junction block. :dunno: I ended up jumping a 22 AWG between the LCM connector and the junction block and all is well once again. :) The car is now ready to be sold as I've since bought a 2008 335i Sport and am loving' the newer E90!
Click to expand...
What’s a junction block located?,I got the same problem with my x5!
 
K
#13 ·
Same problem :)

Hello ! Unfortunately I have the same problem with my 320D 1999, the fog light indicator and the high beam indicator on the dashboard do not work. Tried everything with no luck.

I`m pretty sure that the problem is in the wiring

please wold you be so kind to tell me what pin or wire color of the LCM connector you wired and where is that junction block ? Is it the Fuse box or the black box above the fuse box .

thank you !
 
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#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
It's been a long time since I repaired my malfunction and I didn't photograph nor document the steps.

What you need to test is the K-bus wire between the Light Control Module and the X10116 junction block, and between the Instrument Cluster and the X10116 junction block. The K-bus wire is a "common" circuit in which all the components connect to a single or common point; in this case, it's at the X10116 junction block.

The K-bus wire is white with intermittent orange bands. I do not remember the pin numbers on each of the connectors but look for where the white wire with orange banding connects to; there should only be one such wire at each component; the X10116 will have several such wires converging on a single connector.

The components to gain access to are:

1) The female connector to the Light Control Module (LCM):

Image


2) The X10116 junction block:



You will need to remove the glove box and swing the fuse panel down to access the junction block. Unsnap it from the top of the fuse panel and turn it around to access the common connector where all the white with orange banded wires converge onto:



3) The female connector to the Instrument Cluster:

Image


I don't remember which plug to work with, the black, blue or white one, but look for the one with the white with orange banded wire as there should only be one.

With a circuit tester, first test the K-bus wire pin at the LCM connector to the X10116 junction block; this is where mine failed somewhere along the wire. I had to snake a new wire from the LCM, back behind the HVAC and up into the back of the X10116 junction block then wire-tapped the ends near each connector.

If yours tests good, then test the K-bus wire pin from the instrument cluster to the X10116 junction block.

If both test good, then you may have a fault with the LCM (very expensive part) or somewhere in the instrument cluster.

Good luck!
 
T
#18 ·
SOLVED!!! I had all the same exact symptoms SecertAznSauce described and discovered my airbag module was just as corroded as the pics in this thread. Advise all to at least check it out.. Just unplug it and everything works properly !!! Be advised your airbags won't work unless you replace the module. Also, you dont have to remove the entire center console to just unplug the airbag module, just need to remove the upper portion between the seat backs...kinda tough if you cant get the top down, otherwise it can be accomplished at home. There are some youtube videos on removing the center console, but watch the latter portion to see how to remove only what you need to move...I learned the hard way!!! Good luck.
 

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#20 ·
I sort of fixed the same problem in an X3 (e83) by putting in a passenger seat airbag sensor "tricker" from Lithuania or somewhere. I had all the KBus codes and the same symptoms as you. Tried a new LCM and Cluster but no joy. Finally stuck this stupid thing in there and all the issues went away. Except now the chime sounds when you open the door, when you close the door and you have to cycle the key to position 2 and back to make it stop...stupid K-Bus.
 
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