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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2013, 08:03 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 740 IL
Mission accomplished

Well. Due to a rounded torx bolt on the transmission housing and given the location of it...the engine pull required the tranny to come out with it. Easiest way to do it was to pull the front end of the car off..took about an hour to get everything moved out of the way.but once it was..whole setup came out like butter..had to pull the exhaust off driver side as we went..but that was a piece of cake..for anyone needing to do this with tranny still attached..its time consuming..but not bad at all..keep in mind i had everything discod before removing the front end..total time start to finish..i would say about 4 hours time..

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Last edited by ou18; 07-28-2013 at 08:07 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-28-2013, 09:12 AM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Well done and, from what I have heard from others in the past, well worth the time to do it this way.
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:11 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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Re: Mission accomplished

Yeah my buddy who has pulled his mustang engine said this was by far the easiest way to do..he was shocked at how easily it was to remove the front end of the car..now i have to figure out how to get this damn completely rounded bolt off the bell housing..

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  #4  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:15 AM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Check the auto parts stores. They have some neat tools for doing that kind of stuff now. Good luck.
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2013, 05:52 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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yeah i went and bought the bolt extractors from sears... They have a tough time getting a grip. When I say the head of this torx bolt is rounded. it is rouuuunnnndddeeeddd.
Tried heating the casing around the bolt to expand it, and then jacked up the transmission a bit to relieve some pressure on the top bolt. Nothing. Nada. Zilch... This thing is going to be my nemesis. I can tell.
But at least its out where its easy to work on and get some room to maneuver now...
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2013, 05:30 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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Here it is. My jesus bolt.. This is on the bell housing of the transmission to the engine. Its the only one like this. Its a real PITA to get any kind of grip on. Even with bolt extractor socket..Thoughts...Anyone...
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:05 AM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Seen a guy have success with a reverse/left handed drill bit. Can't remember exactly what it was called. Cut off the head with a grinding tool.
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:33 AM
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I was thinking of that, Cutting the head off with a dremmel. I have the easy out bits. I could then drill into it and and maybe get that easy out in. Heat up the casing a little bit around the threads on the bolt to hopefully expand the casing a bit. And then give it a shot..Ahhh, the fun of rounded bolts.. Thanks for the advice though..
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:00 AM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayorchuck View Post
Seen a guy have success with a reverse/left handed drill bit. Can't remember exactly what it was called. Cut off the head with a grinding tool.
Thats what I was going to say. Reverse drill bits are a God send for stuff like that.
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:21 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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yeah, i tried last nite, busted one. i went and bought heavier duty ones today at lunch. gonna give it another try... we'll see.
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  #11  
Old 07-31-2013, 11:34 AM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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If you broke a bit off in there, then your done. Its near impossiable to drill into another drill bit. I would try to cut the head off with a small cutting wheel, get them seperated and go after it with some vise-grips.
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2013, 04:57 PM
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Well. I went the grinding route. I grinded the head off that torx bolt all the way to the case. Saw the actual bolt itself inside its sleeve. Transmission is now off. The bolt came out like butter with just my fingers...
Only one problem. I thought i had the tranny supported. as it separated from the engine, it rolled and hit one of the tranny mounts on the floor and cracked the mount. Im hopeful this can be welded. It didnt break off, just cracked it. This could be a costly error for me as a case on ebay for this tranny is 200 bucks. Not expensive but damn it. What a cluster F***...

In any event, tranny and engine are separated and the next phase can begin..dismantling of engine for refresh..
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2013, 05:20 AM
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Re: Mission accomplished

Pick of the crack in the tranny mount...hopefully can be welded back together...
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  #14  
Old 08-01-2013, 05:39 AM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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Should be fine. Grind a nice "V" groove in it then weld up.

If it were me I would go ahead and remove all elec componants before welding just to be on the safe side.

Sorry to hear about your luck. Hope all is well.
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  #15  
Old 08-01-2013, 06:00 AM
ou18 ou18 is offline
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you talking internal to the casing. Cause pretty much all electrical connectors on the outside are off now anyway. Do you think there would be an issue, being its on the actual mount itself. I guess the welding would heat the case enuff to possibly cause an issue.
Since i have NO welding experience at ALL, it will be going to a shop for the repair. I had planned on taking the tranny in, for a going over anyway by a shop up here. Make sure she is in tip top condition. Dont want to put it back in and then have an issue with it and have to have it removed again anyway.

Thanks for the advice on getting that bolt out. Once i got home, i said screw it and just started grinding it down. I think the head of that bolt, sort of "welded" itself to the case. Cause there was no turning that bitch. Like i said, once the tranny was off and the shaft of the bolt was exposed in the block, i turned it with my fingers and out it came.

Oh well.. onto the next phase...
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  #16  
Old 08-01-2013, 06:37 AM
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So next question..

Is there a specific kind of bolt i should use to mount the engine to the engine stand. Should i just take one of the bolts from the bell housing into the hardware store and get ones slightly longer for this...

Want to make sure this thing is securely on this stand with no issues....
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:30 AM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Yes to the hardware store, but get Grade 8...you do not want the to shear or twist with the engine hanging
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:44 AM
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Thats what i just read when somewhere else. Looking forward to getting this thing mounted on the stand and then tearing her down...
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:45 AM
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So the engine is going on the stand tonight..

A few questions..
Im going to be taking the heads to a machine shop here and have it decked (if needed) , have them clean it up, do the valve job etc.

Ive been told if im going this far, by a buddy of mine, might as well have the block checked and decked (if needed) and the rings done on the pistons. This same shop will do this as well.. What are the chances of having a warped block on the M62 non vanos. Is this not an iron block? would it make sense to have this done, the rings, block checked, bearings etc.

What are the chances that a lobe might be worn on these cams, and how can i find out before taking the heads to the shop. can i just rotate the cams and see how far the valves open and close...
the car has 180K on it. Im tearing the engine down to replaced every gasket and seal on it..as it has some oil leaks and well they are 16 years old. Doing the complete timing chain replacement etc...I know its an expensive endeavor and many would say just buy a low mileage engine and same some coin. But then i really dont learn anything and thats kinda the point of this project.

I want this engine to be tip top when im done. Dont want to put it back together and have problems later with something i could have done while i had it out.

I do know the previous owners ran dino oil in the car. and when i did the valve covers a year ago, i noticed some gunk build up...

When I did the valve covers, i switched her over to synthetic.

All of your knowledge is greatly appreciated...
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:04 AM
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Found a shop close to me in florida that specializes in bmw, and does most of the work for the dealerships in the area when it comes to this.. to deck (if needed) , complete valve job and cleaning, 300 per head... better than 500 i was quoted by a shop near my job. Thats well worth the peace of mind to have someone else that do the work and knows what they are doing..I would hope so considering they have done over 6000 bmw heads in the history of the company...
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  #21  
Old 08-02-2013, 12:16 PM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Already saved $400...great job. I appreciate you keeping us in the loop on this 'journey'.
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2013, 12:31 PM
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Had to goto a specialty shop to get the right bolts for this engine stand mounting. Not a single hardware store carried the metric class 10.9 bolts long enuff to go thru the engine stand mount and into the block.. what a pain in the ass...

More photos to come. Looking forward to getting this engine mounted on the stand and parts off it...
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:19 PM
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Re: Mission accomplished

Well engi e is on the stand and the dismantling has begun...a fsw pics of the engine as it sit right now...not pretty but not really ugly either..have a couple of broken guide rails..chips...

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Old 08-04-2013, 08:55 AM
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Re: Mission accomplished

Heads are off..every piece this engine gets smaller and smaller..lol...pics of the head off..not to bad actually..definitley carbon build up on piston head and valves..but that will all be gone in a matter of days...

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  #25  
Old 08-05-2013, 10:41 AM
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Just put together my parts list for this project. 1500 bucks. Not terrible. but still shocking to say the least. but hey, when its done, hopefully it wont be leaking anything on the ground...
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