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BMW 90C Thermostat For N62, N63, N73 Engines

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177K views 409 replies 78 participants last post by  joelopiccolo01  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Bought this thermostat about 3 weeks ago

We all know the numerous problems our cars accumulate over time and most of them come from the car running hot all the time. If your cooling system is still sealed your car should get no hotter than 103C degrees when driving in the city and 99-100C on the highway, If you start hitting numbers between 105-110 then your cooling system is already compromised. Your engine and transmission share the same cooling system so this is some serious ****.

Anyhow decided to install the thermostat this past Friday before taking a trip to Chicago. Did some testing and drove around the city before I left, I was at 92-93 degrees driving in the city, the highest it'll hit is 96 then it drops back down to around 90, so let's just say for city driving the temp is between 93-96C. Jumped on the highway later and man the car just felt happier, definitely had more power and I was picking up speed faster than usual. On my whole trip to Chicago which was 2hrs 30min the temp held steady at 92-93C and not once did it go above that. When I got to Chicago I did some heavy city driving, bumper to bumper traffic and the highest I'd hit was 96C degrees, bear in mind it was a hot day too about 85F. Checked temp too on my way back from Chicago and it held steady at 92-93C.

I know some of you are gonna say the company that makes those has bad reviews. Yes I googled them, Yes I read the reviews. What you guys are forgetting is all you really need is the inner parts of the thermostat, so for peace of mind I took out the inner parts of the 90C thermostat and put them inside my OEM stock housing, replaced O Ring No worries (See attached image)

So to answer anyones question yes the thermostat works and will save you a ton of expense and headaches down the line ONLY IF YOUR COOLING SYSTEM ISN'T ALREADY LEAKING, otherwise it's pointless installing it. The choice is yours but I think this is my best mod yet on this car, I'm loving it.

HOW I INSTALLED THE THERMOSTAT!!!!!

BEFORE WE BEGIN, BEAR IN MIND YOU'RE DOING ALL THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK JUST AS I DID!!!!!!

1.) First you wanna get access to the thermostat, if you don't know how watch this video.
- WHEN YOU NOW HAVE ACCESS TO THE THERMOSTAT DRAIN ALL THE COOLANT FROM THE RADIATOR BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT, I REPEAT DRAIN RADIATOR. The drain plug is at the bottom left corner of the radiator, you will have to jack up your car so you can get underneath it to remove the plastic shield under the car that protects engine bay, look it up in TIS if you're unsure

2.) AFTER RADIATOR IS DRAINED, proceed to remove Thermostat as shown in video, there's one 10mm bolt behind the thermostat that's gonna give you trouble as it's hard to reach but if you have extra big hands like I do, grab a 10mm wrench such as this

Image


And reach from under the thermostat to remove the bolt, you'll have enough leverage space that way rather than attempting to unscrew it from the top.

3.) When you have removed the OEM thermostat, wipe it down and remove the O Ring (we're gonna replace it with a new O Ring) now we're gonna swap the element from the 90C thermostat and put it into the OEM thermostat housing

4.) The stock stat pops apart by compressing down the tab that slides across the top of the element spring and turning the unlatching part from the housing, do the same for the 90C thermostat. If you're unsure how to do this I HIGHLY ADVISE you find someone who does because you could hurt yourself or damage the thermostat. When you take out the element TAKE NOTE of location of the hole at the bottom of the element it should be on the same side where the sensor plug is but right above it, when you install the 90C element in the OEM housing it has to be in the same position.

After you have the 90C element installed in the OEM housing, remove the O Ring from the 90C housing and put it on the OEM housing, dip your finger in some coolant and put it around the ring.

5.) Re install your new hybrid thermostat and put the car back together as directed in the video that showed you how to remove it.

6.) I recommend you use OEM BMW coolant and mix it with Distilled water, it's a 50/50 mix, don't re use the coolant you drained.

Top up the coolant per these directions and IT'S VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU VENT YOUR COOLING SYSTEM AFTER REFILLING COOLANT to prevent uneven warming up which might spike your temp higher than it needs to be because of air bubbles, our cars self vent but I still recommend manually venting.

Venting cooling system and checking for
leaks (N62, N62TU)

Warning!

Danger of scalding!

Open sealing cap only after engine has cooled down.

No vent plugs on radiator and thermostat housing.

Cooling system is vented while it is filled and during subsequent
idle operation.

Note:

Before filling, turn on ignition. Set blower to low level. Seat heating
controller to maximum temperature. This ensures that the heater
valves are fully opened and the auxiliary water pump starts up.

Important: The auxiliary water pump must deliver coolant in order
to ensure fully venting!

Installation:

Use only recommended coolant.

Check cooling system for leaks

Perform filling operation slowly.

Pour coolant into expansion tank (1) up to MAX mark.

Start engine and run at idle speed for approx. one minute (cap
open). Then adjust coolant level to MAX.

Close cap and run engine up to operating temperature until main
thermostat opens. Check cooling circuit and drain plug for leaks

And that's it, ENJOY your cooler running 7 series
 

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#5 ·
Excellent news and keep us posted on how its going.
If i had known id have bought the 4.8is instead :eeps:
The i6 is treating me great though, just lacks power :tsk:
I will probably grab one anyway though.


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#11 ·
Mpg is still relatively the same or a tad bit better, nothing significant but I'll test when I fill up my tank. As far as performance goes, the car now feels more aggressive, it's picking up faster than before. Right after I installed the thermostat, I met another 750 and he was trying to keep up with me from behind but my car was picking speed up faster than his. What you need to realize is at a lower operating temp your oil is a little thicker, your vanos works better, therefore better timing settings which helps with pick ups. When your operating temp is between 102-105c oil temp is about 120-140 which makes it very thin so lubrication isn't that good plus pressure is lower, so wear and tear is like two times faster, so yes your performance will improve greatly and your car will live a longer happy life.

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#13 ·
I modded the stock tstat to run these temps and he's right about the performance gains.At least when your up to temp.I have recieved one tstat temp fault but reset myself.I learned of this mod from LS Corvette guys who's tstat is basically the same as ours.Been running this way for 15k miles and UOA looked great.Have found no other problems.I am hoping seals last longer this time is my main reason for trying this.Also I am not affiliated with the OP but may purchase one of his TStats for future use.
 
#20 ·
FYI according to BMW's internal tech documents, a 1% increase in fuel efficency was noted for every 10 Degrees C the temp was raised. So if we get 20MPG, we've gained .2MPG by turning up the temp. Not worth it for me to deal with all the broken rubber seals and gaskets.
 
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#26 ·
Thankyou that's all Im trying to get across is our cars run hot and obviously it's not good, if anyone has a better idea to run our cars cooler by all means be my guest, some will say shim the thermostat but this will throw errors because pressure is distributed unequally. Running a car at 105C is not good and will be very heavy on your pockets in the long run, TRUST ME especially if you live in a really hot state I promise it's only a matter of time until things go wrong, my luck so far is I live in Wisconsin which is cold as hell so at 75k Miles on the dash I have no problems. The 90C thermostat pretty much looks factory but like I said I wasn't too trusting of the housing and company's reputation hence my decision to only use the innards and it worked. The connector for the sensor wire also didn't feel as secure as I would have liked it to.

I'm usually running at 92-93C now and no errors, which is a good 10 degrees cooler than where I was before with factory thermostat. If you wanna give it a shot by all means do so then also share your experience. I'm just here trying to give back as I've learned alot from these forums and bimmerfest has saved me a good amount of money.
I hope there is no hard feelings , I really wasn't trying to kill your topic . I just wanted to make everyone aware that the company builds sub par products .

SORRY IF I OFFENDED YOU IT WAS NOT MY INTENTION .
 
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#28 ·
Thanks! My plan was to buy the new one and compare the 2 and figure out what the differences are. If it's as simple as removing wax like it's been on other t-stats I much rather do that and save 120 dollars, or I'll contact the hotrod shop down the street from me and see if they have any easier/better suggestions on a thermostat that could work that doesn't have bad reviews, etc to keep people calm. Plus I was going to look into drilling a 3/16" hole in T-Stat to help allow coolant to bleed through so when the t-stat is closed it allows the car to run cooler too.

Plus I've been working on my other cars in the past few days and realized that all of them run at 180F which is 80C (hondas/acura). I wonder if 80 or 85 would work well enough too! Right now my concern is the low temp light that was posted about earlier! I PM'ed Dolstat so lets see what he says!
you should try contacting B7M4W5 , I believe he did an 80c or 85c T-sat mod that
was working very good before he got rid of his 7 series .
 
#29 ·
What I did and the vette guys do is extend the stem that contacts the wax motor.Its stainless so I used a mig welder and welded a small amount on the tip of the stem.Then used a file and sanded to make it smooth.I work in a car factory with tool and die guys next to me.We all thought what I did would work fine,and it did.The vette guys drop a shim in the hole to give the same effect.Paper my engine wasnt running factory hot I want to go well below spec.
 
#30 ·
It only says one has been sold. So which one of you bought it? I may buy one and do this mod (using the hybrid of new and old parts) just to see for myself.

As for the two thermostats question...I thought I had read somewhere that there are two thermostats...the normal engine one and maybe one that goes to the transmission as well, im not sure.
 
#31 ·
It only says one has been sold. So which one of you bought it? I may buy one and do this mod (using the hybrid of new and old parts) just to see for myself.

As for the two thermostats question...I thought I had read somewhere that there are two thermostats...the normal engine one and maybe one that goes to the transmission as well, im not sure.
No, engine and transmission share the same cooling system so only one thermostat near radiator, that's why everything goes to **** in this car when you run hot 24/7 and yes even the considered normal of 103C with OEM Tstat is hot.

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#32 ·
That is not true fellas. There IS a tstat for the tranny and it is rated to open cooler... BUT when the whole system is hot as **** you can see where that goes to pieces..
Quick diagram referencing


Part 16 is the tranny tstat

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#33 · (Edited)
And the tstat (7) connected to the wp of course


Coolant comes out of the engine block, through the lower hose, radiator then out of this heat exchanger to the transmission tstat; this is supposed to allow for warming up the transmission when it is cold, and keeping it cool when it becomes warm. Major flaw when you're not driving at speed when your car is designed to run at 105 degrees at idle. Go emissions! ;)
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#34 ·
745IGuy, Thanks for proving I'm not crazy. So if you really want things to run cooler you need to change out all of the thermostats don't you?
 
#35 ·
Well, no the 90c at the wp will be just fine and the tranny stat is different than the wp one.


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#37 ·
This is, by it's VERY definition, the most interesting and intriguing subject currently in discussion on this entire forum!

I know first hand after having owned 2 e65s and this F01, just how foking BLAZING hot these cars run! It literally is a "ticking time bomb!" If there was a "solid and viable option" made, I would be first in line to purchase. I am not too keen on "rigging" it though. i.e. using stock parts with other parts. However, knowing just how prolific of an issue HEAT is to ANY car, I am willing to concede and try this out.

Can this be fitted to my engine?

I will follow this thread and feedback closely. Thanks OP for the info. And keep me updated....
 
#39 ·
Yes TXSTYLE this thermostat will also work on F01,I know you guys have your fair share of issues too from running hot all the time, even more so seeing as you live in Texas. I'm approaching one week with my hybrid thermostat installed and I've had no issues, still 92-93C When driving around, also checked my engine bay for leaks today and there are none.

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#38 ·
Tx, the stat is in fact the same that is on your n63 f01.


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#40 ·
Here in these 100+ degree temps in TX that extend for 5-7 weeks at a time. just compound the issue! So I am definitely all ears. And YES... These twin turbos only make sh1t hotter.
I see me trying one of these sooner than later...
 
#41 ·
You'll notice the dramatic increase in performance too from running cooler, I barely tap the gas now and the car flies, my woman drove it and said DAMN lmao if anyone is interested I'll add info on how I did the complete install to my first post.