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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-21-2013, 02:09 PM
EAGLE08 EAGLE08 is offline
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Window malfunction

06' 330i... Used the key fob to lower the windows before jumping in on a hot summer day. After driving for a few minutes I rolled up the windows and heard a horrible sound from the rear passenger side. I attempted to lower the window slightly but it malfunctioned and now will not raise back up. The error message on the dash read "Anti-trapping mechanism of the power windows malfunctioning." Please advise???

Last edited by EAGLE08; 08-21-2013 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:10 PM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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sounds like you need to take the panel off the door and see if anything noticeable is wrong with the mechanism
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:02 PM
EAGLE08 EAGLE08 is offline
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Thanks... Just finished and saw that my regulator is torn to shreds... what a b****!!! Even messed the tint!! AHH!! Oh well simple fix for a stupid problem...
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:12 PM
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Zeichen311 Zeichen311 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAGLE08 View Post
Oh well simple fix for a stupid problem...
Less simple than you think. Read this post, in particular from the third paragraph onward. Good luck (sincerely).
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:54 PM
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pointandgo pointandgo is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAGLE08 View Post
06' 330i... Used the key fob to lower the windows before jumping in on a hot summer day. After driving for a few minutes I rolled up the windows and heard a horrible sound from the rear passenger side. I attempted to lower the window slightly but it malfunctioned and now will not raise back up. The error message on the dash read "Anti-trapping mechanism of the power windows malfunctioning." Please advise???
An unfortunate and all too common issue with earlier 3-series ('06 is certainly a "problematic" year). Actuators failing, or fuzes blowing. At least you weren't trapped in the car. NHTSA's complaint database has plenty of examples...here's one:

"THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 BMW 3 SERIES. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DOOR LOCKING SYSTEM FAILED, WHICH CAUSED ALL FOUR DOORS TO LOCK HIM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. HE HAD TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW AND USE THE VALET KEY TO MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DOORS FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND THEY STATED THAT THE TWO FRONT DOOR ACTUATORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AT THE COST OF $1,200. THERE WERE NO RECALLS FOR THE DOOR LATCHES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 56,000."

BMW NA is ignoring the (safety) implications of people being trapped in their cars.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:11 PM
EAGLE08 EAGLE08 is offline
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Mission accomplished?? Just finished changing out the regulator and putting it back together actually proved more difficult than taking it apart... Zeichen311 thanks for the heads up on the seal. My previous experiences with other vehicle makes has been very dicey with the barrier that sits between the door and the trim. I was hoping with the summer heat and fastidious work the seal would be maintained when reattached but I see that this will most likely not be the case. Do you have any suggestions for resealing the door myself or is this a futile task?? I will also keep an eye out for failing actuators. What a mess!! Unfortunately the vehicle is too much fun to drive!!
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:56 AM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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NAPA sells a black or gray rope caulk that I have used in the past on older cars to seal gaps in panels in fender wells, its stays flexible too

that might work
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:15 AM
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Zeichen311 Zeichen311 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAGLE08 View Post
My previous experiences with other vehicle makes has been very dicey with the barrier that sits between the door and the trim. I was hoping with the summer heat and fastidious work the seal would be maintained when reattached but I see that this will most likely not be the case. Do you have any suggestions for resealing the door myself or is this a futile task?
Futile? No...they eventually did get mine resealed so it doesn't have to go back to the factory. This not being your first rodeo definitely improves your chances.

You have to keep the butyl adhesive scrupulously clean while the seal is off the door. If it gets contaminated by any dust, dirt or liquids, its effectiveness plummets. Pressing the seal back in place with your hands, however thoroughly and carefully, may prove to be insufficient. Sooner or later it will probably develop a leak. A small roller (like a wallpaper seam roller) is a good tool to have, to really press the seal back in place.

If you didn't replace all the trim fasteners and the sealing washers on them, you have maybe a 50/50 shot. It all depends on how careful you were removing the panel. If you used trim tools, did minimal damage to the fasteners and the washers are in good shape, you may be OK. If you simply pulled on the panel to pop them free, after getting a a few started by prying, you probably buggered the fasteners enough to be in trouble.

After every heavy rain and car wash, check the carpet below the door you opened for any water intrusion. The interior should stay dry even under a full-on soaking from a garden hose. If it isn't leaking now and nothing develops within a few months, you're probably OK.
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2011 335xi Individual 6MT - Azurite Black Metallic / Oyster & Black / Anthracite Maple + all the good stuff

   N47 35' 30.13" E11 10' 33.36" - End of break-in...you can guess what came next. BMW CCA
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