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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-24-2013, 03:22 PM
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furby076 furby076 is offline
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Hey Kat (or anyone else),

Was cleaning Booberry for the first time, since she came to the US (blame the wedding plans). Noticed three things

1) Tried getting all the soot off the chrome tail-pipes, but not all came out. What should I use?
2) A few spots won't come off the rims, what spray do you recommend again?
3) Looking at the pillar, I notice what looks like something got rubbed on that area. I am not sure what, and I think a buff can get it out (my finger can't). Depending on the light it looks black or white. What do you think it is (pics attached)
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Hahahaha, I like you furb, you like to live dangerously.
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I started to google to find a picture to match furby's suggestion to Gia, but it quickly became clear it was an inappropriate search to conduct at work.
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2013, 04:14 PM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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For the inside of the pipes, I'd use 0000 ("four ought") steel wool.
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:16 PM
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furby076 furby076 is offline
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Its towards the outside, but still on the inside...won't the steel wool hurt the chrome? What about the rims?
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Originally Posted by cwinter View Post
I agree with furby
Quote:
Originally Posted by guerilla twang View Post
Hahahaha, I like you furb, you like to live dangerously.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessorCook View Post
I started to google to find a picture to match furby's suggestion to Gia, but it quickly became clear it was an inappropriate search to conduct at work.
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  #4  
Old 08-24-2013, 05:32 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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You will hear mixed results with 0000 on chrome. My guess is that an M3 wouldn't have the cheapest plating (wait I thought you had an m3, but don't see one in sig, but I guess you must with chrome?), but I would also use that as a very last resort, and of course starting at the most inconspicuous spots, good lubrication, take it easy at first. Are your wheels also chrome? When you say spotting, like embedded/sintered iron/brakedust, or do you mean like water spotting? If the former I would try my Sonax firstly, let dwell, good agitation. If it needed a bit more, I would then perhaps try my Iron-X. If the latter, I might try vinegar. If that didn't work, I would then remember that I have some A-maz water stain remover that for me blew vinegar away for shower glass cleaning. (It does help that it can sort of stick to the surface, where it's hard to keep vinegar dwelling on a vertical pane.) Great on toilet rings with a pumice stone, but it's the latter that's key IMO, but I digress...

The pillar, really hard to tell from those pics. Like with everything* go from less aggressive to more aggressive. When you say white, I might suspect the clear getting beat up, but when you say dark, I think of smudginess/dirtiness. So, just atm (my first thought, and it might not be the best one), is using a chemical cleaner like Klasse AIO or anything similar. That will probably get the dark part off. If then you still have the whitish clearcoat damage, yes that may require polishing. Methinks that there is a good chance that most of it will come off, because when I think of clearcoat damage, I think of it at the front bumper, hood, maybe the forward part of the roof, but don't expect it so much there. Also, take it a little easier on polishing pillars, the paint there is often a tad bit thinner.

edit: and for good measure, we would like to know what "buffing with a finger" really was... You mean literally just the skin of your finger, or some sort of paint polish on a terry/MF?

Last edited by Ilovemycar; 08-24-2013 at 05:36 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-24-2013, 05:54 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Yes Furby, help us out here so we can help you out.

#1) Exhaust pipes. Get some Barkeepers' Friend. It's a powder cleanser, (like Comet), but it is especially formulated for stainless steel. The BMW tailpipes are stainless, not chromed. It is absolutely fantastic for taking the soot off the lip of the tailpipe covers. Used it all the time when I had the stock exhaust. So far, I've had very little trouble with soot build up either on the inside or the outside of the Performance Exhaust tailpipes. The PE exhaust has actual pipes not just sleeves covering the pipes. Much easier to keep clean.

2) Wheels. My favorite go- to product is SONAX. A lot of other folks here swear by Iron-X. What I do know is that for really stubborn spots on the wheels, I'm not afraid to clay them and use the Sonax and literally use a toothbrush to massage it into the spots. The bristles of a toothbrush are small enough to really clean those little tiny spots that slide past a spray and wipe technique.

3) The Pillars? I'm having trouble with getting the orientation right on your photos. Do you have the hi-rez originals? Email them to me so I can look at them giant size. At first blush, I'm thinking something like a light buffing with Megs 105/ then Megs 205 might do the trick.

In my hands "finger polishing" doesn't do anything.
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  #6  
Old 08-24-2013, 06:02 PM
roadkillrob roadkillrob is offline
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For the tail pipe, I have good luck with P21S wheel cleaner, just let it sit for a bit and agitate with a brush, if that doesn't do it, then some elbow grease and never dull, it is much milder than steel wool.

For the wheels, the P21S should work, if it is baked on brake dust, then I use some Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner (or Iron X - basically the same).

For the rub marks, I would start with a clay bar and see if it takes it off (meaning something rubbed on the paint and was left on the surface) and if that doesn't work, then it is a light scuff on the clear and a light cleaner or polish will get it out - as suggested above Klasse AIO or other AIO product or super light polish.

Rob
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2013, 10:19 PM
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Good advice from all. Here's some "cleaning music" for the "furb" to enjoy...it's goat related as you might expect:

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  #8  
Old 08-25-2013, 06:24 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Furby,

Thanks for sending the images that I could study more closely. Those marks look remarkably similar to the marks I found on my hood shortly after taking delivery of my E93. Turned out they were buffing marks no doubt left from when the car went through vehicle prep. I was able to finally remove mine with Rubbing Compound (Meguiars 105) and my Porter Cable DA buffer. I was never able to have any luck with hand rubbing. Of course, you have no doubt a bit more upper body strength than me, so you might have some luck with trying to rub them out by hand. My spot was a lot larger and looked much worse. (see pics). I would think that:

1) Rubbing Compound (Meg's 105)
2) Polishing Compound (Meg's 205)
3) Paint Sealant (Something like Blackfire Wet Diamond or Klasse AIO both good choices)

and some persistence will do the trick.

Good luck with it. It doesn't look as bad as you think it looks! (It's just that it's your baby and everything looks tragic at this stage of the game. Trust me, it will get better.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:13 PM
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Whatever you go for the tailpipes, do it weekly ... the soot will not get any better for the N54/N55 engines, it's a feature.
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
Whatever you go for the tailpipes, do it weekly ... the soot will not get any better for the N54/N55 engines, it's a feature.
+1.

P21S Total Auto Wash makes quick work of soot, provided you clean the tips often and apply a coat of wheel wax as needed (every month or two). Once it's allowed to build up, some kind of mild abrasive becomes necessary to get it all off again.
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  #11  
Old 08-26-2013, 06:51 AM
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thekurgan thekurgan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeichen311 View Post
+1.

P21S Total Auto Wash makes quick work of soot, provided you clean the tips often and apply a coat of wheel wax as needed (every month or two). Once it's allowed to build up, some kind of mild abrasive becomes necessary to get it all off again.
Oooooh, I wonder if these exhaust tips can be opti coated. That would be sweet!


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Old 08-26-2013, 10:33 PM
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I can't tell from Furby's pics how deep the scratches are. As I posted in another thread recently, I found some deep scratches on my lower driver's door panel several months ago. Don't have a clue how they got there (road debris?).

I'm quite sure that superficial 'clear coat' scratches can be removed by Kat's method...but if you can get your 'fingernail' into them (deeper), you need to get some paint into the scratch IMO.

My (E90) 10" "whopper" scratch (visible from 6' away) was a concern due to imminent lease turn-in, so I reverted to Dr. Colorchip (I've used it since my E46 days).

Following the instructions precisely I rubbed in my (exact match paint code) on the scratch, wiping it off minutes later with the solvent. It virtually disappeared (thank goodness).

As I nervously watched the BMW dealership "lease turn-in" inspector go over my car, the scratch wasn't noticed...didn't become an issue...nor did a series of (previously obvious) paint chips that the process handily covered up.

I went just about 2.5 years without a door ding...then this huge scratch appeared and the rear door paint chips...all of a sudden.

This is not a paid announcement for Dr. Colorchip...it has just worked well for me over the years when done correctly...and it's simple to use.
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(unmentionables in between)
'71 AMC Javelin (4-Spd Stick on the floor)
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:39 AM
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furby076 furby076 is offline
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Thanks all for the feedback. i will get some of those chemical cleaners and try them out.

Yes, I do think it's just brake dust. I figured brake dust would "bake in" eventually, but i thought it was one of those things that take months/years of not cleaning... Sheesh, these wheels are sensitive.

@Kat - Please clean your camera lens. The spots were hurting my eyes. If you need to, feel free to delivery your camera (hand delivery only) to Philadelphia so I can resolve your spottiness

@Pointandgo -> I blasted the goat music. My neighbors called the police. I'll be sending you my lawyers fee.
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"Booberry" -ED 2013 335xi | B45 | ZMM | ZDA |Heated Seats | HK |EBII
My Drive Style

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-
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwinter View Post
I agree with furby
Quote:
Originally Posted by guerilla twang View Post
Hahahaha, I like you furb, you like to live dangerously.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessorCook View Post
I started to google to find a picture to match furby's suggestion to Gia, but it quickly became clear it was an inappropriate search to conduct at work.

Last edited by furby076; 08-27-2013 at 11:41 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2013, 07:11 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Good luck with it. I'd like concur on all of the suggestions. I haven't used quite all of them yet, but I can say all of them are well received by detailers everywhere, they are all good suggestions.

You know kurgan's suggestion of OptiCoat on the exhuast? I might consider them for your wheels too, personally. I used OC on my tips recently, and I would have done them on my wheels as well had I not already used Meguiar's Brake Dust Barrier (it's not advertised as being permanent like OC, but I expect it to last an extremely long time). A full syringe of OC is something like $70, but more and more pro detailers are offering a la carte opticoating wheels, where they are probably only using a few/several dollars worth of OC (but of course they have to charge for prep/labor). Just a thought. I think kurgan may have OCd his wheels, maybe he would chime in...

Wheel wax won't last on tips. OC is ceramic based, and therefore is resistant to extreme temperatures, exhaust tips are no problem.

Oh- I finally remember why I wanted to post. I DO BELIEVE you will be totally fine, and what I'm about to say actually does not necessarily contradict something Kat had mentioned, and that is recently I have been removing more clearcoat at any given spot by hand compared to machine! I know it sounds weird, I'm not terribly strong, but I think having focused energy at one spot, perhaps I'm creating unwanted heat buildup, who knows... and the reason this doesn't contradict is because I have take 2-3 microns off without even removing the damn flaw to begin with.

My point is, use your instinct, and just in case, don't think that you're supposed to dig in real hard or anything like that. As I said, I wouldn't be surprised if the pillar issue came out like a piece of cake, but just wanted to be on the safe side here. Yes- I almost think using a machine is safer here, I know it sounds weird... my opinion is subject to change...
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furby076 View Post
Thanks all for the feedback. i will get some of those chemical cleaners and try them out.

Yes, I do think it's just brake dust. I figured brake dust would "bake in" eventually, but i thought it was one of those things that take months/years of not cleaning... Sheesh, these wheels are sensitive.

@Kat - Please clean your camera lens. The spots were hurting my eyes. If you need to, feel free to delivery your camera (hand delivery only) to Philadelphia so I can resolve your spottiness

@Pointandgo -> I blasted the goat music. My neighbors called the police. I'll be sending you my lawyers fee.
You played the vid? You're going to sew? Little did I know that this goat bag pipe song was copyrighted by Sony studios. You know how they feel about pirating popular online music. Shame!

Forward all lawsewt papers to Catalina Island 'mooring can' No. 56 c/o of the Harbor Master. I may or may not be collecting my mail.
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F30 328i
E90 328i
E92 335i 6MT
E46 M3 6MT
E39 528i 5MT
MBz W140 S320
MBz W124 300E (slammed)
(unmentionables in between)
'71 AMC Javelin (4-Spd Stick on the floor)
'67 Pontiac Firebird 'cabrio' (1st car - "the leaker")
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:26 AM
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bocabimmer bocabimmer is offline
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Confirmed! Barkeepers Friend took the soot off my polished tips. Thanks Kat.


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