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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-03-2013, 04:54 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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318i no start issue. HELP!

1995 318 convertible, M42 engine, auto tranny. Bought it about a month ago, took the carpets and seats out for floor repairs (airbag light on since, but carpets and seats are still out, but the car started and ran). The starter motor was skipping, so I replaced it from the engine compartment. Took the intake manifold out, fuel rack & injectors. While at it, replaced vacuum lines and intake boot, spark plugs too. re-assembly was smooth, one component at a time, switches and sensors re-connected, pretty sure went back the right way, as wires only reach the right switch/sensor. Now the car will crank, there is spark on the wires (as seen by a light wire tester), but will not run. After 4 or 5 attempts, I got some coughing, but no start. I can use a little help here, thanks!
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  #2  
Old 09-03-2013, 07:02 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Try some starter fluid in the intake. If it fires up briefly with that, it's either low/no fuel pressure or the injectors aren't injecting fuel. We'll work from there. Test and report.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:24 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Try some starter fluid in the intake. If it fires up briefly with that, it's either low/no fuel pressure or the injectors aren't injecting fuel. We'll work from there. Test and report.
Thanks for your reply. I will try tomorrow and will report, I tried again an hour ago, triple checked all connections, vaccuum lines, all checks out, i took the upper manifold out again to check the connections from the crank and cam, they can't be misconnected, as the connectors have specific slots in them. My knock sensors showed some cracks, but I figured that they were OK as the check engine light was not on when the car was running and I wanted to assemble it without having to wait for new ones. I'd like to disconnect, then re-connect the fuel pump, how do i do that?
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:32 PM
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Simplest way is to remove the fuel pump relay.

It's #1 in this diagram
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HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #5  
Old 09-04-2013, 07:10 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Try some starter fluid in the intake. If it fires up briefly with that, it's either low/no fuel pressure or the injectors aren't injecting fuel. We'll work from there. Test and report.
It fires up with the starting fluid. I checked the fuel pump harness and it gets 12 volts when ignition is turned on. I did not hear the pump whirring when I reconnected its harness. The fuel rack was taken out to remove the lower manifold. I did not disconnect the fuel injector harness, but I did pulled on it to get the rack out of the way. That harness goes to a compartment on the firewall, but I did not open it.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:07 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Hey Horn I think this has to do with the security system, as I had the battery disconnected for 3 days. From the bits and pieces I've gathered in the forums, it looks like the system is cutting off current to the injectors and this is why it turns on briefly when the computer resets after disconnecting the battery. I think I have to put the interior together and re-install the onboard computer, so I can enter the code. I see a 5 digit number on the front of the owner's manual that came with the car, so I'm hoping this is the security code. Please correct me where I'm wrong, let me know how to go about entering the code.
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:51 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Car started, but will not idle

I finally put all of the interior back together and tried to start the car. At first, it would not start, then I saw a video on Youtube of some guy retrieving the codes from the flashing check engine light. He taps on the gas pedal until the check engine light goes into the blinking mode. I tried to do that, but it would not work. Then I noticed that my inside/outside temperature display was not on, so I decided to check the fuses. I found fuse # 21 (cigar lighter, 30 amps) blown, so I replaced it. I then went back inside the car to check for the temp display, hoping that it would be on the cigar lighter circuit, no dice. However, I tried to start the engine, this time with the gas pedal all the way down and it started. It will run, but won't idle. Dies as soon as rpm's go lower than 1500. The check engine light is on solid too. Also, my driver and passenger windows don't close. I've worked on my cars for decades now and other than a Jaguar I drove, I never came across any car this temperamental. I'm also sad to see that after 2 days posting updates on this issue, no one has posted any helping comments. Fells like I'm wasting time talking to myself here. Did I come to the wrong forum?
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:49 AM
sovetcke sovetcke is online now
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Window problems, temp display problems, and you checked the battery + The fuses, I still think it's a DME issue (Car computer)
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:01 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Thanks for your reply Sovettcke. How one knows if it is a DME issue? and if it is, what is the solution? I forgot to add that I cleaned the idle control valve. Also, hornhospital suggested to test for starting with starting fluid in the manifold. This caused a small explosion that rocked the intake and the air flow meter
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  #10  
Old 09-08-2013, 09:49 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Since it now starts but won't idle, I'd say you blew off a/some vacuum hose(s) when you tested it with starter fluid. A poor start/no idle condition indicates a massive vacuum leak. Start looking for loose or cracked hoses.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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Old 09-08-2013, 03:45 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Since it now starts but won't idle, I'd say you blew off a/some vacuum hose(s) when you tested it with starter fluid. A poor start/no idle condition indicates a massive vacuum leak. Start looking for loose or cracked hoses.
Good guess horn. It was the hose that connects the IAC to the rubber boot, the fitting came out of the boot. I re-connected it and no start, but after disconnecting the battery and turning on the hazards to drain the system, then reconnecting the battery it started right up, a little bit shaken at the beginning, but later settled to a nice 750 RPM idle, I let it idle until I saw the temperature rising. I did not purge the cooling system, as I don't know where and how to purge it. I think the car has the security system triggered, as the windows don't roll up, the temperature display is dead and it seems to start only after the battery is disconnected. Both the check engine and the airbag lights are on. There were no lights before. I just ordered an adaptor to connect an OBD2 reader to the round connector on the engine bay. Hope the reader will reveal the fault codes.
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:32 PM
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Toward the end of this DIY there's instructions on how to bleed the cooling system. Lot's of other good DIYs on the Pelican Parts Tech Info Center.
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2013, 04:18 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Toward the end of this DIY there's instructions on how to bleed the cooling system. Lot's of other good DIYs on the Pelican Parts Tech Info Center.
Thanks DC, I will bleed it today. I don't remember seeing any bleeder screw to the right of the cap, I looked for it all over the engine bay, as I knew that the system had to be purged. I'll take a closer look, probably I missed it.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:50 AM
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If the screw is original, it's the same black plastic that surrounds it, so it may be hard to see, especially if you spilled a little coolant on top the expansion chamber. It's a simple cross-slotted screw head about 1/2" in diameter.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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Old 09-09-2013, 03:56 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Thanks Hornhospital. Tough plug to see, but after knowing where to look, i found it and was able to bleed the system. the car starts only after disconnecting /reconnecting the battery and the gas pedal has to be bottomed out before it fires. It coughs for a minute or so, wanting to die off, but if I keep pumping the gas pedal, eventually it settles and I can let it idle. If I turn it off, I have to disconnect the battery again, drain the electrical system then re-connect the battery ad it starts again. The engine light is on and so is the airbag light. The onboard computer (temperature displays and memo) does not turn on at all. It looks like the car thinks is getting stolen. Will an OBD2 reader be able to read the codes if I plug it in with an adapter?
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:42 PM
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Re: 318i no start issue. HELP!

You've got something more serious going on if you have to cycle the electrical system to get it to start.

I don't think an OBD2 reader will do any good, even with an adapter.

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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
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BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 09-09-2013 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:48 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
You've got something more serious going on if you have to cycle the electrical system to get it to start.

I don't think an OBD2 reader will do any good, even with an adapter.

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anyone has an idea of what this issue would be? The car ran fine before I did the floors and replaced the starter. I remember that I turn it on without the seats in order to bring it up in ramps, after which I took the battery off. It spent a few days up in the ramps while I did the floors and replaced the starter, for which I had to remove the intake manifold. After the starter was installed, I installed the battery and when I moved the key to the 1 position, the flashers came on. Unknowingly, I pushed the flasher switch a couple times and the flashers turned off. I tried to start the car, but it would not start, so I had to push it down the ramps.
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Old 09-10-2013, 05:09 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothops View Post
Thanks Hornhospital. Tough plug to see, but after knowing where to look, i found it and was able to bleed the system. the car starts only after disconnecting /reconnecting the battery and the gas pedal has to be bottomed out before it fires. It coughs for a minute or so, wanting to die off, but if I keep pumping the gas pedal, eventually it settles and I can let it idle. If I turn it off, I have to disconnect the battery again, drain the electrical system then re-connect the battery ad it starts again. The engine light is on and so is the airbag light. The onboard computer (temperature displays and memo) does not turn on at all. It looks like the car thinks is getting stolen. Will an OBD2 reader be able to read the codes if I plug it in with an adapter?
Dead give away. You have a wire that is grounding to the body that it shouldn't be. Remove the carpeting (yes I know, it is daunting) and look for any broken wires around the seat area in the front and the rear bench seat.

I am curious.

Also, did you check to see how hot the ECU is when you try cranking the car?
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:30 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Wow, you sound serious when you say dead giveaway. I did check all of the wires when I had the seats out, but did not see any peel or burn marks. However, a section of the harness at the very front, where the firewall and the floor meet was tied to the firewall and kinda out of reach, so I can't vouch for that section. I already cut the carpet at the midline, which makes it that much easier to remove, one side at a time, but before I go on with it, would you rule out DME issues?. I have not seen how hot the computer gets, as I don't really know where is at, although it looks like it lives at the top center of the firewall, inside a black plastic box that receives the wires from the engine sensors. However, I wanted to open the box to take a look, but was afraid to break the tabs or anything else, as I don't know how to open it. If it is a computer issue, I had in mind to purchase a DME without the security chip. I heard there is a shop that sells them. This way (if it is a DME security issue) I would kill the dog and the rabies.
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:48 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothops View Post
Wow, you sound serious when you say dead giveaway. I did check all of the wires when I had the seats out, but did not see any peel or burn marks. However, a section of the harness at the very front, where the firewall and the floor meet was tied to the firewall and kinda out of reach, so I can't vouch for that section. I already cut the carpet at the midline, which makes it that much easier to remove, one side at a time, but before I go on with it, would you rule out DME issues?. I have not seen how hot the computer gets, as I don't really know where is at, although it looks like it lives at the top center of the firewall, inside a black plastic box that receives the wires from the engine sensors. However, I wanted to open the box to take a look, but was afraid to break the tabs or anything else, as I don't know how to open it. If it is a computer issue, I had in mind to purchase a DME without the security chip. I heard there is a shop that sells them. This way (if it is a DME security issue) I would kill the dog and the rabies.
Don't be afraid. It helps us help you. And you are right, the DME (or ECU) is located on the passenger side, in a plastic box. Try to start the car a few times and then feel the temperature of the DME/ECU. If it is getting really hot (it should barely be warm), then it could be your DME/ECU. If it is cool or barely warm, then it is not. But that doesn't rule out the chip in the DME/ECU is just bad or corroded. But we will get to that later. Just remember to pop out the three big plastic rivets with a flat-head screw driver. Then you will have 6 bolts with a phillips head. Loosen them out (do not remove them). Then just remove the box and you will see the DME/ECU inside.

Now, when you checked the wires, did you look for cracking in the insulation? Even a tiny bit of exposure can be enough ground to cause the problems you are talking about. Remember, even a ripple can turn into a tsunami if conditions are right. Also, check the wires underneath the seats and underneath the rear bench seat. If it is none of those, did you check in the fuel pump area? Also, in the fuse box, do you see any fuses that have blown that control the seats or lights? Further, remove the glove box and verify no wires are loose. On the driver's side, remove the kick panel and verify no wires are loose or dangling or touching the cross beam.

You definitely have a grounding problem. Let's see if we can find it.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:34 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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Thanks for the pointers Hnaz, I will check out the computer temperature the first chance I get. However, the car was running just fine when I took it apart, so it must have been something I did. I keep thinking that I could have misconnected some sensors, but this doubt was clear when I took the upper manifold apart to double check the connections. I realized that I could not misconnect anything, as the wires have the right length so they won't reach any other connector. The camshaft and crank sensors have different connectors and the knock sensors can't physically be misconnected. One of them had a large crack, I put it back together with epoxy. As far as the wires under the carpet, I was not looking for faults that small as insulation cracks, but I looked to see if there was any insulation peeling, discoloration or other signs of shorting, such as melting, black stains and the like. I did not see any of that and it seemed odd to me that the bundle of wires was only loosely wrapped in this tiny emery tape, just enough tape to keep the harness together, but you could see every wire in between loops of tape. It bothered me that the whole harness rests on the bare metal floor, but after having a bicycle inner tube ready to wrap the bundle with, I decided against it, as I figured that the manufacturer must have had a reason to make it like that and I was not about to try and outsmart BMW with something that is under that tough to install carpet. Turns out, I have to lift it anyway and if there is not a good reason not to do it, this time I will give those wires a bit of insulation against the floor of the car. Some of the things that make me think of the computer being the culprit is that at one point, I re-connected the battery and the flashers started flashing. The front windows don't roll up, but the rear windows work fine, the onboard temp display does not turn on at all. One thing odd is that the power mirrors of the car did not work when I brought it home. I will work any suggestion I get from the forum, as you guys have "been there done that". I'm sure that eventually we will get to the bottom of this
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:24 PM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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I got a nasty little wound on my index finger, will have to put the work on hold for a couple days, to give it a chance to heal. Never a dull day
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:56 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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OK back at it. I lifted the driver's side carpet today, looked at the wires from the firewall to where they disappear under the rear lateral cover while on their way to the trunk. All of them look fine to visual inspection, I tried to look as closely as I could with a flashlight, but didn't see anything wrong. I will wait for a sunny, clear day and will take the car out of the garage, so I can open the top and look again under the sunlight. Also, I treated the floors with this heavy rubber compound, so there is no metal available in the floor area where the wires live. I remember opening the box that contains the injector wires and yanking the whole injector harness to get it out of the way when I was removing the intake manifold. i will take a close look at those wires as well. Is there any spot on this models that is notorious for developing shorts? Anywhere else I should look?
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:08 AM
Smoothops Smoothops is offline
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one question, how many connectors does the onboard display center has one or more? I only saw the one bundle of wires that connects to the left upper corner of the module. The connector has a lever that locks it in place. Is there any separate power connector for the onboard display?
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:55 PM
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Nope. The OBC has one multi-pin connector. Locks on like you said.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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