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7 Series - F01 / F02 (2009 - current)
The new re-designed 7 series F01 / F02 leads off the BMW Fxx chassis code!

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  #1  
Old 10-05-2013, 08:54 AM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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My Car was Crunched Bad, Any Thoughts?

I was T-boned by a Suburban running a red light a week ago today. No one in either vehicle was hurt, thankfully. She was doing 20+ mph, maybe even 30. Since the road was wet, my car spun 180 degrees. The BMW emergency call center did an excellent job. It was kinda surreal sitting in the car wondering WTF, and hearing some out of body voice asking if anyone is hurt, and that the police and ambulance have been called. Houston PD and FD were there in under 4 minutes. Amazing!

The other driver has been declared 100% at fault and her insurance company has accepted full responsibility. I thought the car would be totaled, but my insurance company person and the other carrier said it could be fixed for under $20K. The current value of my car was $30K+ (it is 4 years old with 74K miles, prior to the crunch excellent condition).

Besides the possibility of me getting the repair check and then selling the car to salvage and buying a new one, I'm also thinking about letting them fix it and then sell it before I get to 100K miles. I have extended warranty and maintenance on it until then. I'll get to that point by December, 2014.

If I have them fix it, is there anything I should require before they start? My insurance agent told me to get in writing that the frame wasn't damaged, but the car guys say that isn't applicable for this car since it's unibody construction. You can't tell from the picture, but the right rear wheel is not pointing where it should be.

Also, if they fix it, is there anything I should look out for that will indicate the problem wasn't fixed properly? I'm not expecting the car to ever be returned to normal in spite of what the car guys say.

BTW, the repair place is part of the company that owns the BMW and Mercedes dealerships in north Houston, so if anyone can fix it, they should be able to.

I need to make a decision by Tuesday, 10/8, so any thoughts would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2013, 09:13 AM
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Leslierc Leslierc is offline
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From the pic it looks like the frame sustained some damage. Is there a BMW certified repair shop near you? If so, have the car assessed there. At any rate, it's your choice regarding where the repairs are performed since liability is with the other driver's insurer. Choose the best body shop in your area. If it were me, I would want that thing totaled.
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  #3  
Old 10-05-2013, 09:18 AM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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Thanks Leslie. The shop is indeed BMW certified. I have no doubts that they will do a good job if I get one done. Looking at the thread by Hughes on his damage, I was surprised that his estimate was only 40% lower than mine for what appears to be body damage only. The estimator said the cost will go up, but that doesn't do me any good if I want to get the repair check, then turn it in to salvage. I suspect that the estimate, which is just a little north of $16K, is very low ball. I think I'll be getting the same body work, if not more, than Hughes did.
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:16 AM
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GHOST PROTOCOL GHOST PROTOCOL is online now
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My Car was Crunched Bad, Any Thoughts?

I would get a second opinion from a BMW certified repair shop or, better yet, the body shop at your BMW dealer. This car may very well be a total loss. I am sure that you would rather have a new car at this point and you need an expert that is on your side. You do not have to accept what the liability carrier is saying, at least not yet.

Addendum: I see you went to the dealer's repair shop. I would have a talk with them and ask them what they expect the amount of the supplement will be. Tell them that you think that the repair costs will ultimately exceed value and that you would rather have a new car that you will get from their dealership. You can also get a second opinion from another shop.


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Last edited by GHOST PROTOCOL; 10-05-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2013, 10:32 AM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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Thanks GP. After I posted the reply to Leslie, I had the same idea. I have tried to talk to the BMW repair shop guy, but he's plenty busy. He did return my call on Thursday but I didn't hear the call so he left a voicemail. I have been unable to talk to him since. I plan on going there on Monday for a face to face with him, or someone else, to get that info.
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:08 AM
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Leslierc Leslierc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texgeekboy View Post
Thanks GP. After I posted the reply to Leslie, I had the same idea. I have tried to talk to the BMW repair shop guy, but he's plenty busy. He did return my call on Thursday but I didn't hear the call so he left a voicemail. I have been unable to talk to him since. I plan on going there on Monday for a face to face with him, or someone else, to get that info.
Since it's all under the same roof, would explaining what you want...replace with a new BMW...to the dealership GM also help move things along?
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2013, 11:18 AM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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When I talked to the guy in the collision center, he asked if it was totaled if I would be buying a new BMW. I said yes. I then talked with the sales guy who I bought it from 4 years ago, and told him the same thing. He's supposedly looking into what I can get from them if I give it to them for salvage. The collision center and dealership are less than 1/4 mile apart.
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  #8  
Old 10-05-2013, 11:18 AM
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An insurance settlement is nothing more than an offer from the insurance company, you can accept it or decline it. Most people don't understand this and just accept the offer as this is what it is. If you have the time and another vehicle to drive, keep declining the offer until you get what you want. I have had numerous insurance settlements and I have never accepted the initial offer. My longest ordeal was 6 months. They would call weekly with a slightly better offer, but still no where near what I wanted. Eventually they signed off on what I was asking for. Tell them what you want and hold firm until you get it. The insurance companies have to close these cases and get them off their books, they will eventually come around. The last thing is that the insurance companies know that most people do not have another car to drive and that they need the money or their car fixed today. Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 10-05-2013, 12:28 PM
Leftlane11 Leftlane11 is online now
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If your car is worth $30k and the repairs are $20k or so, how would that not be totaled? I thought if the repairs exceeded some set percentage of the value, like 35%, it is totaled - especially if there is any frame damage.

Sucks, but glad you weren't hurt.
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  #10  
Old 10-05-2013, 04:16 PM
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ndavani ndavani is offline
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Dude, all these accident pictures. I'm freaking out and all paranoid now. What's goin' on out there. It's like the friggin' demo derby.
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:38 PM
AdamG13 AdamG13 is offline
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My last car had similar damage, but form a smaller sedan so it was isolated to a smaller and lower area. It reached about 20-something thousand @ BMW Certified Collision which I'm sure is costlier than a non-certified. Maybe you should take it there cause I'm sure if mine was 20 there this one would have to be closer to 30. Especially since it's on the fuel side and mine was on the driver's side. If that wheel was hit as well maybe you've got some drive train damage too which would easily push it over 30. If it takes anywhere near as long as mine did the insurance company is looking at > $1500 in rental car fees as well.
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2013, 06:39 PM
Norm37 Norm37 is offline
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Some insurance companies would use this calculation 70% of $30,000 = $21,000 Any $ dollar amount over that they would declare it totaled.

Being as the other driver is 100% at fault you need the insurance to pay for a rental car.

If they repair your car the damages will most likely show up on a Car Fax report. This will greatly lower the resale value of your car.

So check with your state on their diminished value policy.

Do whatever you can to get the insurance company to cut you a check (or agree to a $ amount) for diminished value if they repair the car.

With all these additional costs above the actual repair cost the insurance company might just go ahead and declare the car totaled.

If not. Certified BMW auto body shops have very good result on repairs.

Below is a link to before and after photos of repaired cars at the shop where my son had his 135i convertible repaired. His cars photo is no longer available as his accident was quite awhile ago.

http://www.activeabi.com/photo_gallery

Ps. Also ask to be reimbursed for the % of the extended warranty and maintenance you paid for from the date of the accident to December, 2014.

You will need that money to help pay for a new extended warranty and maintenance policy on any new car you buy.

Last edited by Norm37; 10-05-2013 at 07:35 PM.
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  #13  
Old 10-05-2013, 07:44 PM
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1) Your insurance agent is either an idiot or doesn't care since his (your) company isn't paying out on this. So rather than giving you advice in your best interest, he's pretty much passing the buck to the other insurance company in the hopes that he can close this out. OR he's a rookie or is used to repairing Camrys. These are ALUMINUM body panels, 'nuff said.

2) There is NO WAY that would be less than 20k in repairs. You're looking at replacing the bumper, door, quarter panel, underlying structure, etc. Do what CABN said and just hold off (esp since you have another car to drive) and keep waiting until they agree to total it. THEY ARE HOPING you agree to repair it, because if it costs them even 25k to repair it, that's still less than the 30k they'd have to payout to you for a Total.

3) You're going to have serious deminished value for that car, even if you were to repair it. So you'd still be in the negative if you do sell it after it's repaired.

4) Get a car rental, EVEN IF YOU DON'T need it, as close to the 7 as you can get. You'd be surprised how much more open they are to settling when they're dishing out 100/day for a rental.

5) SEE A DOCTOR. Even if you don't feel injured (unless you are a doctor, you're not qualified to make a determination that you are "OK"). I was stupid after a rear ender and didn't do that. 1.5 months later my back/neck seized up and it's taken me 4 years to get back to "normal". It could take weeks to see any symptoms, but a doctor would be able to run tests, etc.

6) I agree, you will need another car... either a new BMW or a preowned one. Keep talking to that dealership and see what arrangements can be made. They might "fight for you" to challenge the adjuster's numbers and finally get him to agree that your car is a total.

7) These are unibody structures designed to distribute the energy of an impact. It's done it's job. The car now has compromised structural integrity. No matter how "pretty" they make make side of the car, it's already been injured. (Front and rear collisions are a bit more forgiving due to crumple zones.. you don't have those from side-impacts). I wouldn't trust it to be as "safe" in another accident. I'd move on personally. My rule is if an airbag goes off, all bets are off and I'm not keeping it.

8) I'm glad you're safe. We can replace cars, not so with people. Even if you do take a little loss on this, in the grand scheme of things, it'll be a blip on life's radar. But I do hope they do their jobs and make you "whole" again.

EDIT:

9) One other thing... the dealership will make MORE money from you if they repaired this than if they sold you another car (pretty much), their interest might be to get you to repair it, for that reason. Also, any repair shop has to accept the hourly rate of the insurance company, so those posted rates are for suckers who walk in the door asking to repair a ding or a scratch. My BMW repair shop charged something like 100/hr, 125/hr for aluminum work. They accepted like 85/hr for an insurance payout. Or something to that effect. This will take MONTHS to repair (at least 2-3) and it will simply NEVER be the same again.
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Last edited by aom; 10-05-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-05-2013, 07:50 PM
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wjhughes420384 wjhughes420384 is offline
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you look like you have a lot more damage than I did, your rear door doesn't look like it is right. We don't have a frame, but the unibody is more sensitive. they can measure whether the unibody is out of line. someone mentioned diminished value, you can bring that up with the ins co. make sure they know they are going to pay for the repairs plus the diminished value. Also point out the cost of a rental car. I fought for it and they agreed to rent me a luxury class car. that is expensive for them also. If they agree to total it. they only have to pay for a rental til you get the check.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndavani View Post
Dude, all these accident pictures. I'm freaking out and all paranoid now. What's goin' on out there. It's like the friggin' demo derby.
ndavani, have you (or anyone) noticed that the incidents (at least here on SoCAL) of reckless or roadrage drivers in the past few months have gone up?

I've been noticiting this trend lately, seems like folks are just wound up for some reason. Maybe it's been the heatwave or something.

I agree, I'm finding myself taking another car to the mall or places were there will be a lot of turnover for fear of how others would treat this car.

I now usually only drive my F01 to work and back since I know all my employees and they KNOW my car (and to park very far from it).
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:58 PM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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Wow, I had to go take care of some stuff I put off due to the accident and got so much info! Thanks for the feedback. In answer to your thoughts/questions;

I do have a second car that I can use for a bit. That along with working from home a couple of days/week should be able to get me 2-3 weeks more.

In Texas (I'm told), the damage has to exceed 75% of the repair estimate in order to be totaled. That would have to be about $25K.

It seemed like a demo derby when I was hit. The other driver said she was rushing to pick up her son from football practice. She claimed the light at the previous intersection was broken, and she assumed this one was too. She was ticketed.

After reading some stuff for the damage on Hughes car, I don't believe the estimate from the insurance guy. I'm taking Monday off and going into the BMW Collision Center, where the car is, and talk to the people there and ask them for an independent estimate.

I'm working very closely with the salesman that sold me that car, and trying to work a deal. He has someone lined up to look at the car to buy it, and fix it himself. I'm not asking questions beyond that. I own the car outright, so I don't have to work with a lienholder.

Last edited by texgeekboy; 10-05-2013 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:04 PM
aom aom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texgeekboy View Post
Wow, I had to go take care of some stuff I put off due to the accident and got so much info! Thanks for the feedback. In answer to your thoughts/questions;

I do have a second car that I can use for a bit. That along with working from home a couple of days/week should be able to get me 2-3 weeks more.

In Texas (I'm told), the damage has to exceed 75% of the repair estimate in order to be totaled. That would have to be about $25K.

It seemed like a demo derby when I was hit. The other driver said she was rushing to pick up her son from football practice. She claimed the light at the previous intersection was broken, and she assumed this one was too. She was ticketed.

After reading some stuff for the damage on Hughes car, I don't believe the estimate from the insurance guy. I'm taking Monday off and going into the BMW Collision Center, where the car is, and talk to the people there and ask them for an independent estimate.

I'm working very closely with the salesman that sold me that car, and trying to work a deal. He has someone lined up to look at the car to buy it, and fix it himself. I'm not asking questions beyond that. I own the car outright, so I don't have to work with a lienholder.
No worries, that's what we're here for. Not sure I'm understanding that 75% threshold though. I can understand if it's more than 75% of the value of the car, but of the "repair estimate"?

So, are they saying that if it costs 7500 to repair a 10000 car, they would just repair it rather than total it? But if the repair estimate costs 5000, then they realize it'll be 70% more than they planned--which is still under that 75% threshold, they'd still repair it (which would now be 8500)?
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:19 PM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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I understand what you're saying, but I don't know the answer. I took it the simplest way, for a 10K car, if the repair estimate was less that 7500 they would repair it rather than giving the 10K to the owner.

On another note, one option I have is to have them fix the car and keep it until the extended warranty/extended maintenance is over at 100K miles (around 12/2014). After a collision like that, is the warranty voided? It's a BMW warranty (not third party) and the repairs would be done in BMW authorized collision center. But, if they say the warranty is no longer valid, that option is a no go.
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:36 PM
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wjhughes420384 wjhughes420384 is offline
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the problem with an initial estimate is they exclude any damage they can't see, so the cost could go way up after the pull the outer panels.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:22 PM
pickupjason pickupjason is offline
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My Car was Crunched Bad, Any Thoughts?

I had experience that my 2007 RX350 got rear-ended while my mom was driving it. The estimate guy came check the car out and gave me an estimate for around $8k and he said it's no where to be totaled.
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I had a towed to one of the largest lexus dealer in SoCal. One week later the advisor called and said after they took the car apart, they found out the structure was damaged! Two days later the car is totaled by the insurance company.
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Anyway, I would think your car would have same result. Once the shop takes the car apart, they will find out more damages that it's not repairable or it will cost them too much to repair it.

I would have the car towed to the shop and have a rental car then wait to see what will happen!



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Old 10-05-2013, 09:31 PM
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ndavani ndavani is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aom7 View Post
ndavani, have you (or anyone) noticed that the incidents (at least here on SoCAL) of reckless or roadrage drivers in the past few months have gone up?

I've been noticiting this trend lately, seems like folks are just wound up for some reason. Maybe it's been the heatwave or something.

I agree, I'm finding myself taking another car to the mall or places were there will be a lot of turnover for fear of how others would treat this car.

I now usually only drive my F01 to work and back since I know all my employees and they KNOW my car (and to park very far from it).
No I haven't noticed it going up, but I do notice that whenever we have a heat spell, people go ape $h1t with the road rage thing.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:53 PM
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take the 20K, sell your car as is, probably 10K or so, add another 10K, get a newer model..why bother? really!
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:18 AM
texgeekboy texgeekboy is offline
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The comment by PUJason made me feel a bit better about the process. I was concerned that if I agreed to the repair, they would get it done even if it was really bad after they started. The fact that they'll quit when they find nasty stuff is probably what will happen here.

I agree with light1, I want to dump it bad. I really don't want to drive it around for another year after it is supposedly fixed.

I'm taking Monday off to go to the collision center and talk to a non-insurance guy about it, and see if the dealer can get me connected with someone that will buy it as is for his own purposes. I'll let you know how that turns out.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:30 PM
AdamG13 AdamG13 is offline
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I just took a look at some photos I had from my last 7 that was hit. Check out how minor this looks in comparison to yours. If it was ~20k to fix mine I almost want to guarantee that they're going to total yours out. The unibody on mine was barely compromised. Hopefully this works out to you getting a new 7, maybe one of the heavily discounted 2013s while they last.
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2013 750i Mineral White
Previous Bimmers:
2011 750i Jet Black
2007 750i Monaco Blue
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  #25  
Old 10-06-2013, 02:43 PM
5Starautoinc 5Starautoinc is offline
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Location: Miami FL
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 750Li
I've honestly repaired high end vehicles with more damage than your 7. With an experienced shop the repairs will have the car looking as good as new

Last edited by 5Starautoinc; 10-06-2013 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Typo
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