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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 10-20-2013, 04:08 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Location: CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,704
Mein Auto: '08 335i coupe 6MT sport
Clarifications on coolant flush please

Hey folks, I got the DIY bug again, just replaced all three lock cylinders on my truck, and now want to do this DIY on the BMW that I was holding off on for a bit. I've now perused a few DIY guides, videos, and my Bentley, but I still wanted your personal thoughts on a few things that I'd like clarification/confirmation on. I apologize if some of things should already have been very clear to me, I do want to be safe rather than sorry.


1. When the 12 minute pump bleed procedure is being executed, are all bleed screws and caps supposed to be firmly shut? (Does air simply rise to top of expansion tank, and the coolant level drops a bit, and if I left anything open or slightly open I'd be asking for a huge mess?)

2. Are there indeed two bleed screws under the hood which both require opening in succession before the electric pump bleed (radiator hose, then directly on expansion tank)?

3. How problematic was reaching the drain plug for you? (If I have to tinker with the IC, I will get scared again.) Mine is manual transmission, N54, if it matters at all.

4. Is draining from the radiator hose that goes into 'stat housing pretty much required? (Any tips?)

5. My CTEK 3300 should be plenty fine for the procedure because it is rated from 0.8-3.3 amps?

6. Are most of you just reusing the old drain plug?

7. How critical is having the car level for this procedure? (I can do so no problem, but ramps are so easy you know, and I think perhaps safer too.)


I know I will probably have more questions, thanks for holding my hand.

Okay, while I have your attention, I've a Q on a totally different subject. As I've been reading about VCG replacement a bit more lately, how much more work is that on top of say a DIY walnut shell blast? Is there a lot of work that is redundant between the two, or are they really quite distinct? (Cleaning the old gasket off apparently seems to be the tedious part.) I cannot recall people doing these at the same time, though I'm sure it's happened. Thanks again for your time.

Last edited by Ilovemycar; 10-20-2013 at 04:09 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2013, 04:12 PM
IgotBMW's Avatar
IgotBMW IgotBMW is offline
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Mein Auto: 1996 Z3 1.9L M44
Clarifications on coolant flush please

Follow this video when bleeding.




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  #3  
Old 10-20-2013, 04:20 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Location: CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Mein Auto: '08 335i coupe 6MT sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by IgotBMW View Post
Follow this video when bleeding.
Eh. It didn't answer a single question of mine, though you might be implying to me that I should leave the cap and one of the two bleed screws open after I initiate the electric pump bleed by putting turning ignition on, fan at min, heat at max, throttle 10 secs.

I don't know if that car has a front mounted intercooler that obstructs access to the drain plug. Yeah, it pretty much doesn't help me whatsoever as near as I can tell?
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:44 PM
roadkillrob roadkillrob is offline
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Location: Boston
 
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Mein Auto: 325CIC, 335CIC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovemycar View Post
Hey folks, I got the DIY bug again, just replaced all three lock cylinders on my truck, and now want to do this DIY on the BMW that I was holding off on for a bit. I've now perused a few DIY guides, videos, and my Bentley, but I still wanted your personal thoughts on a few things that I'd like clarification/confirmation on. I apologize if some of things should already have been very clear to me, I do want to be safe rather than sorry.


1. When the 12 minute pump bleed procedure is being executed, are all bleed screws and caps supposed to be firmly shut? (Does air simply rise to top of expansion tank, and the coolant level drops a bit, and if I left anything open or slightly open I'd be asking for a huge mess?)

Yes

2. Are there indeed two bleed screws under the hood which both require opening in succession before the electric pump bleed (radiator hose, then directly on expansion tank)?

Yes

3. How problematic was reaching the drain plug for you? (If I have to tinker with the IC, I will get scared again.) Mine is manual transmission, N54, if it matters at all.

You have to remove the IC to get to drain plug in 335 so that is why everyone does the hose method.

4. Is draining from the radiator hose that goes into 'stat housing pretty much required? (Any tips?)

It is easy to pop off just follow the DIY on e90post

5. My CTEK 3300 should be plenty fine for the procedure because it is rated from 0.8-3.3 amps?

Yes, don't even need a charger if battery is good.

6. Are most of you just reusing the old drain plug?

Most people are not draining at the radiator.

7. How critical is having the car level for this procedure? (I can do so no problem, but ramps are so easy you know, and I think perhaps safer too.)

Should be fine, if you do the thermostat line, you only get a 70% fill anyway.

I know I will probably have more questions, thanks for holding my hand.

Okay, while I have your attention, I've a Q on a totally different subject. As I've been reading about VCG replacement a bit more lately, how much more work is that on top of say a DIY walnut shell blast? Is there a lot of work that is redundant between the two, or are they really quite distinct? (Cleaning the old gasket off apparently seems to be the tedious part.) I cannot recall people doing these at the same time, though I'm sure it's happened. Thanks again for your time.
See above
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  #5  
Old 10-20-2013, 08:16 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Location: CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Mein Auto: '08 335i coupe 6MT sport
Thank you, Rob! I had reviewed that E90post guide before, but thanks to your clarification, it all makes so much more sense now. I note however that in the guide (335i E92), he didn't mention using the two bleed screws, only the one right at the reservoir tank. Then I noted right now that the Bentley says to bleed at the radiator hose if equipped, so maybe he doesn't have one, and I'm not sure that I do either. Okay... things are clearing up.

In that DIY, a few months after the thread was created, someone chimed in about having done this with an MT, and said the following:

Quote:
Hi everyone, I just completed this on my 335 MT. This is a great write-up. A few points I'd like to underscore:

1. For the manual transmission, you do not need to remove the intercooler. Looking up under the car, on the passenger side, you'll see a coolant hose going into the radiator. There is a clamp on this. You can loosen it, pull it, drain it, and then replace. Easy.

2. For the bleed: it's very important the key is in the dash, ignition on (i.e. headlights are on), and both temp dials turned to high (84 degrees). As stated above, push the accelerator pedal in for ten seconds or until you hear the water pump cycle on. Then let it go. I used this time to replace the undertray.

Thanks for a great write-up!
So maybe I might be so lucky. This would then be a complete flush, which is nice. edit: Okay I can't read, he's still using a hose, not drain plug. I am going to look more into what FMIC removal looks like, just for the heck of it.

If I go the route of partial flush with hose, I hope the connection is easily identifiable as I don't have an AT heat exchanger. Okay, maybe a coolant hose going into a radiator should be super easy to identify...

I know the DIY guide(s) should have been clear to me, as it now, thanks again Rob, because I don't know how long it would have taken! If lucky, this might actually turn out really easy and straightforward!

Last edited by Ilovemycar; 10-20-2013 at 08:19 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-20-2013, 08:32 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
wooohooo
Location: CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,704
Mein Auto: '08 335i coupe 6MT sport
Okay, maybe I was scared of touching the IC for no reason, because this video makes it seem really easy? (He has it out at the 3:20 mark, a lot of the video then is talking about cutting out space for the aftermarket IC.)

Rob, is removing this unit enough of a hassle to sacrifice doing only a 70% flush, especially for a DIY that is done quite rarely? Maybe I am not understanding how much more difficult it makes this DIY. Thanks to anyone who may shed light.


Last edited by Ilovemycar; 10-20-2013 at 08:34 PM.
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