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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 02-06-2014, 02:34 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbooth View Post
I bought a 2008 550 a little over a year ago and now has 72k miles. Your document is right on the mark on many items.
Happy to share my repair experiences so far if your interested.
Thanks
Steve
Sure -- go ahead and post them and I'll cut them into the next version. With due credit, of course!
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  #77  
Old 02-06-2014, 03:28 PM
sbooth sbooth is offline
CirrusSteve
Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 550i Sport
Thank you again! Your list is very comprehensive and I have already been attending to many of the items. (fluid changes, spark plug changes, oil changes every 7500 etc)
Specific to my 2008 550i Here are a couple more repair items I have dealt with.
Started getting traction control / DCS warnings about 60k miles Was told by dealer/Indy the Steering Angle Sensor needed replacement (about $1000 or so). Forum searching and http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=620074
this post had the cure. I disassembled and cleaned and issue was corrected and has not yet returned in over 6 months.

Started getting engine overheat warning about 65k miles. Radiator cooling fan was not coming on. Dealer and Indy says entire fan needs replacement ($1000 or so). It appears the electronics that control the variable speed in the fan are part of the assembly and not available separately. Bought fan online for $530 best deal I could find and replaced myself. Definitely a DYI.

During routine oil change about 50k miles was told the Transmission Pan was leaking and needed replacement. Evidently a composite material pan that cracks due to age (not impact) , pretty common I was told. I bit the bullet and had dealer do it, changed the pan and the filter assembly and all fluid. $1200! Definitely would have been a DYI and probably half the cost.

Have 72k miles now and dealer changing oil due to overall cost with coupon was about what I could do it for. They told me the engine vacuum pump was leaking oil and needs replacement for $910. Very common per the forums but can be DYI with 2 seals for about $25. Really not leaking as much as barely seeping.
Was told the "thrust arm" bushings are worn and need replacement for $650. Covered in your document already but can be done DYI for about $300
Was told brakes front and back of course with rotors are needed. About 30k miles on them so makes sense but was quoted $812 for front and $812 for rear ($1,600!) Lots of posts about brakes but I will go with Zimmerman rotors and ceramic pads and sensors for about $550 from FCPEuro. Easy DYI

Moral of the story for me. If all the suggested repairs by dealers were done at the dealer it would be over $6k for about 30k miles in 1.5 years. Very pricey by any measure. That said, with the help of forum knowledge sharing and some time, I cut that by 50% easily and would have been even more had I done the transmission pan myself.

The car is fantastic and I love it! Still expensive but DYI makes it reasonable to own and keep. I wish dealers would stop gouging customers, just parts swapping for new and get back to fixing things. More people would go to the dealers and keep techs employed etc.

Thanks again.
Steve
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  #78  
Old 02-06-2014, 05:03 PM
johns550i johns550i is offline
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Good info Steve! Just curious, did you get a quote from an Indy shop for the replacement for the transmission pan/filter and fluid change?

I have a 2010 550 with 36K on the clock now and wanted to change the filter and fluild as preventative maint. I haven't gotten any local quotes yet but since you posted the dealer cost, I was curious if you compared any Indy shop prices.

Thanks,

John
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  #79  
Old 02-07-2014, 08:49 AM
sbooth sbooth is offline
CirrusSteve
Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 550i Sport
Hi John,
No I did not get quotes from Indy for this one, It was relatively new for me and I made a quick decision to just get it done especially since it involved the expensive transmission. The Pan includes the filter and can be bought for about $180 but retails for $320 from dealer. The fluid is expensive about $34 per qt for OEM and they used 8 qts (can buy for about $22 on your own). They charged $500 in labor which I could have done myself. All in all you will spend at least $475 in parts on your own and then what ever labor and Indy would charge.
They also replaced an actuator sleeve seal which is common ..only about $25 for parts while they were doing it.
I will probably at least do a drain and refill every 30k miles on the fluid and change the filter/pan every other time (60k)
Good luck.
Steve
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  #80  
Old 02-07-2014, 01:18 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbooth View Post
Hi John,
No I did not get quotes from Indy for this one, It was relatively new for me and I made a quick decision to just get it done especially since it involved the expensive transmission. The Pan includes the filter and can be bought for about $180 but retails for $320 from dealer. The fluid is expensive about $34 per qt for OEM and they used 8 qts (can buy for about $22 on your own). They charged $500 in labor which I could have done myself. All in all you will spend at least $475 in parts on your own and then what ever labor and Indy would charge.
They also replaced an actuator sleeve seal which is common ..only about $25 for parts while they were doing it.
I will probably at least do a drain and refill every 30k miles on the fluid and change the filter/pan every other time (60k)
Good luck.
Steve
Remember that thectsc has kits for $250, including fluid and pan: http://thectsc.com/
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  #81  
Old 02-07-2014, 01:28 PM
tonyb.ca tonyb.ca is offline
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Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbooth View Post
Hi John,
No I did not get quotes from Indy for this one, It was relatively new for me and I made a quick decision to just get it done especially since it involved the expensive transmission. The Pan includes the filter and can be bought for about $180 but retails for $320 from dealer. The fluid is expensive about $34 per qt for OEM and they used 8 qts (can buy for about $22 on your own). They charged $500 in labor which I could have done myself. All in all you will spend at least $475 in parts on your own and then what ever labor and Indy would charge.
They also replaced an actuator sleeve seal which is common ..only about $25 for parts while they were doing it.
I will probably at least do a drain and refill every 30k miles on the fluid and change the filter/pan every other time (60k)
Good luck.
Steve
Repeat after me:

Manual Gearbox !!!
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  #82  
Old 02-07-2014, 01:35 PM
sbooth sbooth is offline
CirrusSteve
Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 550i Sport
Yes manual is nice and potentially less trouble. But the auto is sweet



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  #83  
Old 02-07-2014, 01:36 PM
sbooth sbooth is offline
CirrusSteve
Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 550i Sport
Thanks for the tip on the kit. That is a great solution and price!


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  #84  
Old 02-07-2014, 05:30 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Yep, fluid itself is cheap from them too. Highly recommended


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  #85  
Old 02-20-2014, 03:14 PM
cool_dude_208 cool_dude_208 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 530i, 2007 550i
Valve cover gasket?

I Need help for my 2006 530i(N52) with 103k miles. Opened my hood today and found some oil leaked/spashed. Can someone please confirm if it is Valve cover gasket that went bad?
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  #86  
Old 02-20-2014, 04:00 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool_dude_208 View Post
I Need help for my 2006 530i(N52) with 103k miles. Opened my hood today and found some oil leaked/spashed. Can someone please confirm if it is Valve cover gasket that went bad?
CD, You should post this in the main E60 forum. Most people don't wander though here, and your request for help will be missed. Thanks.
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  #87  
Old 02-20-2014, 04:51 PM
cool_dude_208 cool_dude_208 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
CD, You should post this in the main E60 forum. Most people don't wander though here, and your request for help will be missed. Thanks.
Sure. Opened a new thread. Thanks.
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  #88  
Old 03-01-2014, 05:37 PM
parodielin parodielin is offline
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Air filters

The document said 3 air filters. Does that mean two cabin air filters and one engineer air filter?
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  #89  
Old 03-02-2014, 06:35 AM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parodielin View Post
The document said 3 air filters. Does that mean two cabin air filters and one engineer air filter?
That's right. There is a fourth filter in the top of the main air intake housing, and some remove that without replacing it.

Also, some have gone for years with carefully vacuuming the charcoal airvent filters, since they're expensive and the need for charcoal is unlikely. But that's a choice made by some really cheap people (me, to be specific....)

Of course, the main filter needs to be replaced regularly with a new one. Usually, people replace it yearly. It's cheap.
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Last edited by banglenot; 03-02-2014 at 06:41 AM.
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  #90  
Old 03-03-2014, 08:25 AM
bridey bridey is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 530xi
I have a 2007 530XI. You mention the front stabilizer bushing causing noise when going over dips in the road when it gets cold. Mine does this and it drives me nuts! When you say stabilizer bushing, are you referring to the two bushings that hold the sway bar to the chassis or the stabilizer links at each wheel?

Thanks
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  #91  
Old 03-03-2014, 09:39 AM
luis castillo luis castillo is offline
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Increased emission just turn on on my 545i v8 whats the solution



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  #92  
Old 03-03-2014, 09:41 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luis castillo View Post
Increased emission just turn on on my 545i v8 whats the solution



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that's like saying "my car is broke, how do I fix it?"

there about 100 things that can do that. You need to go by an autozone or somewhere and get them to read the codes for you and let us know what they find. The most common one that I know of is the secondary air system being clogged--fixing it is not easy if that is the problem
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  #93  
Old 03-03-2014, 09:49 AM
luis castillo luis castillo is offline
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At first it had a problem with the thermostad and i fixed it and theres no more codes


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  #94  
Old 03-03-2014, 09:50 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Obviously there's something or it wouldn't have came on... It may be a BMW specific code that the reader you're using can't read
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  #95  
Old 03-03-2014, 10:17 AM
luis castillo luis castillo is offline
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Oh an i also change the spark plugs can that affect anything ??


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  #96  
Old 03-03-2014, 12:50 PM
parodielin parodielin is offline
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I bought this one for the filter next to engine:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found three clips that I can untie but I cannot remove the cover. Any idea of what's the right procedure or did I miss other clips?

Quote:
Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
That's right. There is a fourth filter in the top of the main air intake housing, and some remove that without replacing it.

Also, some have gone for years with carefully vacuuming the charcoal airvent filters, since they're expensive and the need for charcoal is unlikely. But that's a choice made by some really cheap people (me, to be specific....)

Of course, the main filter needs to be replaced regularly with a new one. Usually, people replace it yearly. It's cheap.
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  #97  
Old 03-03-2014, 02:26 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parodielin View Post
I bought this one for the filter next to engine:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found three clips that I can untie but I cannot remove the cover. Any idea of what's the right procedure or did I miss other clips?
Sorry, can't remember if it's 3 or 4 (I've done it so many times I stopped noticing). Look around the split in the air filter box and you'll see all the clips. If all are open, then push the top of the enclosure back and forth until it loosens. Sometimes the top of the box sticks to the filter seal and you have to pull it apart. Note that the halves of the unit will separate, but you will need to loosen the hoseclamp on the air intake hose to get it off completely. THAT SAID, I've always just slipped the old filter out without loosening or removing the hoseclamp and taking off the top of the filter enclosure completely. Faster and easier than removing it all the way.
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Last edited by banglenot; 03-03-2014 at 02:32 PM.
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  #98  
Old 03-05-2014, 08:09 AM
parodielin parodielin is offline
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So I loosed the screw on the intake hose to remove the cover. Inside the cover, it looks like there is "another filter". Do I need to change that one too? (It's too late as I put that back in, just curious)

Quote:
Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
Sorry, can't remember if it's 3 or 4 (I've done it so many times I stopped noticing). Look around the split in the air filter box and you'll see all the clips. If all are open, then push the top of the enclosure back and forth until it loosens. Sometimes the top of the box sticks to the filter seal and you have to pull it apart. Note that the halves of the unit will separate, but you will need to loosen the hoseclamp on the air intake hose to get it off completely. THAT SAID, I've always just slipped the old filter out without loosening or removing the hoseclamp and taking off the top of the filter enclosure completely. Faster and easier than removing it all the way.
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  #99  
Old 03-05-2014, 08:37 AM
njlou njlou is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parodielin View Post
So I loosed the screw on the intake hose to remove the cover. Inside the cover, it looks like there is "another filter". Do I need to change that one too? (It's too late as I put that back in, just curious)
That is the charcoal activated "filter". It is essentially a pollution control item. It reduces the gas fumes coming out of the engine when the engine is off.
As far as replacement, it is protected by the "real" filter, and stays relatively clean. BTW..... it is VERY expensive since it IS the entire case.
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  #100  
Old 03-05-2014, 02:47 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njlou View Post
That is the charcoal activated "filter". It is essentially a pollution control item. It reduces the gas fumes coming out of the engine when the engine is off.
As far as replacement, it is protected by the "real" filter, and stays relatively clean. BTW..... it is VERY expensive since it IS the entire case.
Some people just remove it altogether.
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