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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:46 PM
bigdaws bigdaws is offline
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Idiot question about changing wheels

I just bought some 19" 313 wheels+tires from a guy, preowned but OEM. Can I just put them on myself with a jack and a tire iron, or should I take it to the dealer? I'm worried about 3 things:

1) I don't do it right, don't tighten it enough, whatever
2) I screw up the TPMs somehow
3) They might need to be balanced or shimmed or whatever the hell else to make them work right

If the answer is "do it yourself", any tricks I need to know so nothing goes awry? Or, if I can have a dealer do it, how much might they charge me for such a thing?
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  #2  
Old 10-31-2013, 03:04 PM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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well with out knowing the year and model of your car, its a crap shoot, not knowing the offset, if its a staggered set up, which means the rear tires are wider than the front.

no one can tell you
so you need to post the following at min
model
year
what is the current tires on the the car and wheel type

you cannot mess up the TPMS but I would bet they have to be either coded to your car or the TPMS reset once installed
balancing them would be a good idea too

other wise use a socket and ratchet and jack up the car and see it they fit, there is a torque setting for wheel lugs but snug them up and then another 15 degree turn should work, just check them for looseness after about 25 miles
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  #3  
Old 10-31-2013, 03:09 PM
bigdaws bigdaws is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondo402000 View Post
well with out knowing the year and model of your car, its a crap shoot, not knowing the offset, if its a staggered set up, which means the rear tires are wider than the front.

no one can tell you
so you need to post the following at min
model
year
what is the current tires on the the car and wheel type

you cannot mess up the TPMS but I would bet they have to be either coded to your car or the TPMS reset once installed
balancing them would be a good idea too

other wise use a socket and ratchet and jack up the car and see it they fit, there is a torque setting for wheel lugs but snug them up and then another 15 degree turn should work, just check them for looseness after about 25 miles
Sorry, rookie move.

The car is a 2011 335is e93. The wheels are 19" 313 style OEM, and they are replacing 19" 225M style OEM. Both are available from the factory on the 335is; I bought the car used and prefer the other style. The tires on the current setup are Potenza Runflats, and the new tires are Michelin Pilot Supersports. I believe they are exactly the same dimensions:

225/35R19
255/30R19

The wheels come with TPMs installed, but I figured I could swap the existing TPMs into them and resell my 225Ms with the transplanted TPMs in them, eliminating the need for recoding (unless it's easier to recode, again, have no idea).
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  #4  
Old 10-31-2013, 03:55 PM
avocet avocet is online now
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well, lets start with the basics:

do you have a suitable jack?
jack stands?
breaker bar and correct socket?
torque wrench?
torque figures?

from the sounds of it, you have little to no experience working on cars. changing wheels is a good place to start as long as you prepare yourself and do your research.

safety is tops. that includes cars not falling on you and ensuring your wheels don't fall off driving down the road.

oh, and unless the wheels are bent or are otherwise in an undriveable condition, they should just bolt on and you're good to go.

oh and BTW, I am not sure about tpms reset... I don't have them. but your car will be completely drivable if you don't reset them/they don't work. you will just have to put up with the warning.

Last edited by avocet; 10-31-2013 at 03:58 PM.
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2013, 04:01 PM
surfcity335i surfcity335i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaws View Post
Sorry, rookie move.

The car is a 2011 335is e93. The wheels are 19" 313 style OEM, and they are replacing 19" 225M style OEM. Both are available from the factory on the 335is; I bought the car used and prefer the other style. The tires on the current setup are Potenza Runflats, and the new tires are Michelin Pilot Supersports. I believe they are exactly the same dimensions:

225/35R19
255/30R19

The wheels come with TPMs installed, but I figured I could swap the existing TPMs into them and resell my 225Ms with the transplanted TPMs in them, eliminating the need for recoding (unless it's easier to recode, again, have no idea).
Get yourself a bit of medium grit sandpaper or emery cloth to clean up any areas of rust on the hub surface or the mating surface on the backs of the wheels. Even a tiny bit of debris could make the wheel not spin true.
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  #6  
Old 10-31-2013, 04:10 PM
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  #7  
Old 10-31-2013, 04:17 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaws View Post
I just bought some 19" 313 wheels+tires from a guy, preowned but OEM. Can I just put them on myself with a jack and a tire iron, or should I take it to the dealer? I'm worried about 3 things:

1) I don't do it right, don't tighten it enough, whatever
2) I screw up the TPMs somehow
3) They might need to be balanced or shimmed or whatever the hell else to make them work right

If the answer is "do it yourself", any tricks I need to know so nothing goes awry? Or, if I can have a dealer do it, how much might they charge me for such a thing?
Would you consider future DIYs? I ask because I assume you have very little in the way of tools, and what I might suggest does add up. I am new to DIY, but am already on my second floor jack and second set of jack stands.

I use this jack. Because it is huge, meaning I can directly access central lift points no problem. It's freaking heavy, almost 100 lbs. It is still so entirely convenient not to play the game of using multiple jacks to reach central point, or driving on to wood planks firstly for more clearance, etc.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-68050.html

You can get jack stands for real cheap, but I splurged for these because they make me feel a bit safer while also having absolutely no worry of damaging the plastic lift points or anything else for that matter. Yes they may be overpriced for what they are, but I'm quite glad I have them.
http://www.reverselogic.us/jack-stands.html

As mentioned, breaker bar and torque wrench, I believe bolts are M12 requiring 120nm or 88.5 ft/lb torque, I don't recall what the +/- is. Remember to snug them all down before torquing, and do so in a star pattern. I've even heard someone here torque them to lower setting just to torque them again at final setting but I haven't done that.

If your wheels are frozen on, you will see people kick them off, some use mallets... mine were stuck so bad I had to go buy a cheap sledgehammer, I put a board of wood against the tire, came off so easy like that. This lesson taught me to buy some anti-seize you want the paste not the spray. You do not want this to go on bolts/threads or torque is inaccurate. If you think about it, overtightening can mess up the threads weakening the bolt/thread.

With the above purchases, if you add a lower range torque wrench, a cheap ratchet driver with a very small handful few sockets/wrenches, you can now do diff oil, manual trans/clutch fluid under the car... besides the torque wrench can be helpful for spark plugs and oil change as well. And more.

Just in case, you break the bolts, and do final torque when wheels are back on ground. (Think what happens otherwise.)
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  #8  
Old 10-31-2013, 04:19 PM
RBinDC RBinDC is offline
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Be prepared for the worst. You may discover that the wheels are bonded to the hubs because of catalytic corrosion. I have heard of guys having to hit the wheels with a baseball bat to get them loose.

When you put on the new wheels be sure to clean the mating surfaces of the wheels and the hubs, then cover them with a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant.
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  #9  
Old 10-31-2013, 06:45 PM
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pointandgo pointandgo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaws View Post
I just bought some 19" 313 wheels+tires from a guy, preowned but OEM. Can I just put them on myself with a jack and a tire iron, or should I take it to the dealer? I'm worried about 3 things:

1) I don't do it right, don't tighten it enough, whatever
2) I screw up the TPMs somehow
3) They might need to be balanced or shimmed or whatever the hell else to make them work right

If the answer is "do it yourself", any tricks I need to know so nothing goes awry? Or, if I can have a dealer do it, how much might they charge me for such a thing?
Where to begin?

1. Never attempt to mount tires (onto wheels) yourself...only a retail tire dealer/indy should do this.
2. Don't invest a dime until you know that the wheels are the correct 'ET' (offset) for your car and that the tire/wheel combination won't rub.
3. No doubt (if they fit) they'll need to be balanced by a professional.
4. Shimmed? You're scaring me already.
5. Yes, they'll need to be properly torqued (lug bolts) according to a specific recommendation for your car...using a torque wrench.
6. We'll presume that the TPMS is the correct 'frequency' for your car...did you check?
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Last edited by pointandgo; 10-31-2013 at 06:46 PM.
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  #10  
Old 10-31-2013, 07:21 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avocet View Post
well, lets start with the basics:

do you have a suitable jack?
jack stands?
breaker bar and correct socket?
torque wrench?
torque figures?

from the sounds of it, you have little to no experience working on cars. changing wheels is a good place to start as long as you prepare yourself and do your research.

safety is tops. that includes cars not falling on you and ensuring your wheels don't fall off driving down the road.

oh, and unless the wheels are bent or are otherwise in an undriveable condition, they should just bolt on and you're good to go.

oh and BTW, I am not sure about tpms reset... I don't have them. but your car will be completely drivable if you don't reset them/they don't work. you will just have to put up with the warning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBinDC View Post
Be prepared for the worst. You may discover that the wheels are bonded to the hubs because of catalytic corrosion. I have heard of guys having to hit the wheels with a baseball bat to get them loose.

When you put on the new wheels be sure to clean the mating surfaces of the wheels and the hubs, then cover them with a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pointandgo View Post
Where to begin?

1. Never attempt to mount tires (onto wheels) yourself...only a retail tire dealer/indy should do this.
2. Don't invest a dime until you know that the wheels are the correct 'ET' (offset) for your car and that the tire/wheel combination won't rub.
3. No doubt (if they fit) they'll need to be balanced by a professional.
4. Shimmed? You're scaring me already.
5. Yes, they'll need to be properly torqued (lug bolts) according to a specific recommendation for your car...using a torque wrench.
6. We'll presume that the TPMS is the correct 'frequency' for your car...did you check?
Good advice here ^^^



OP - honestly size up your skill set / tool box against the above. There is no shame if this is beyond you. God forbid the car falls on you while changing a wheel, or you neglect to properly torque a wheel bolt.
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  #11  
Old 10-31-2013, 08:33 PM
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Chop362 Chop362 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaws View Post
Sorry, rookie move.

The car is a 2011 335is e93. The wheels are 19" 313 style OEM, and they are replacing 19" 225M style OEM. Both are available from the factory on the 335is; I bought the car used and prefer the other style. The tires on the current setup are Potenza Runflats, and the new tires are Michelin Pilot Supersports. I believe they are exactly the same dimensions:

225/35R19
255/30R19

The wheels come with TPMs installed, but I figured I could swap the existing TPMs into them and resell my 225Ms with the transplanted TPMs in them, eliminating the need for recoding (unless it's easier to recode, again, have no idea).
No like those 225's?? Alway's thought they were pretty sweet
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:02 AM
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You could sell those 225s.
How much?
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  #13  
Old 11-01-2013, 09:36 AM
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You are putting the factory optional wheels on the car so the fit will be good. My tires are larger than the ones you have purchased so fit/rub is a non-issue. The only issue you might have is getting a chassis jack under the car. All mine were to big so I built some quick & dirty ramps out of some 2X12 lumber. Torque the bolts to 88ft lbs. Balancing is a good thing to do, be sure the shop has the proper gear or take it to BMW
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2013, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBinDC View Post
Be prepared for the worst. You may discover that the wheels are bonded to the hubs because of catalytic corrosion. I have heard of guys having to hit the wheels with a baseball bat to get them loose.

When you put on the new wheels be sure to clean the mating surfaces of the wheels and the hubs, then cover them with a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant.

Catalytic corrosion! Oh yes oh yes oh yes....I like the baseball bat, but please, use maple not aluminum.

OP - like it says in prev posts, 88 ft lb torque, tightening opposite bolts - I'm certain you're bright enough to figure out the last. That torque wrench is real important! I use THIS, 1/2"
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:13 PM
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If you don't already have one, don't forget the jacking pad adapter so you don't ruin the jack pads.
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  #16  
Old 11-01-2013, 01:31 PM
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Pad adapters are good to have for side lifts, but doing this job is quicker & easier with a chassis jack lifting the whole end of the car. Just a block of wood between the center jack points & the jack. Getting lazy in my old age & use this to ease the mounting of hub centric wheels.



Its $10 from BMS & screws into a lug bolt hole to support & line up the wheel on the hub.
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Last edited by bear-avhistory; 11-01-2013 at 01:32 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2013, 01:46 PM
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///M-ratedE90 ///M-ratedE90 is offline
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This thread = bimmerfest in a nutshell

OP: By the time you have bought the kit described, you may as well have gone to a tire shop to swap the wheels and be ensured that they are balanced and you are not exposed to risk. Based on your initial post, I would go that route. All four wheels/tires will fit on your back seat.
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:51 PM
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^^^

It might be a coupe & you can drop the seats for a pretty big open area. That being said its still a BMW & based on the stereotype no time like the present to start to learn DIY
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Old 11-01-2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bear-avhistory View Post
Pad adapters are good to have for side lifts, but doing this job is quicker & easier with a chassis jack lifting the whole end of the car. Just a block of wood between the center jack points & the jack. Getting lazy in my old age & use this to ease the mounting of hub centric wheels.



Its $10 from BMS & screws into a lug bolt hole to support & line up the wheel on the hub.

Excellent advice - I have two.
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:58 PM
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Idiot question about changing wheels

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Originally Posted by ///M-ratedE90 View Post
This thread = bimmerfest in a nutshell



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Old 11-02-2013, 07:09 AM
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Excellent advice - I have two.
I have three...

Although I switched to studs now...

Following the thread theme...spend $150 switch to wheel studs to avoid the need for a $10 wheel mounting alignment peg.

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Old 11-02-2013, 07:50 AM
dmatre dmatre is offline
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Idiot question about changing wheels

Hey guys,

The OP isn't talking about brain surgery, he's changing a tire.

All these dire warnings about things that can go wrong are pathetic.

If you want to change your tire, then check your manual, or an older version (when BMWs had spares) and follow the directions.

My wife has changed several flats herself, so these doomsayers must be real pantywaists. Maybe I should as her to do a DIY write up.

OP, you're changing one OEM wheel for another. They'll fit. Get the right tools, do it in a flat place, set the parking brake and block the opposite wheel front & back, and enjoy getting to know your car that much better.

While you've got each wheel off, look around. Look at the amount of brake pad left (check YouTube if unsure what you're looking for), check each shock for leakage (dripping oil down the shock body), check rubber bushings where each suspension arm mounts on both sides (look for obvious tears or damage - if it's bad it'll look different than the others, don't worry - you'll know), check brake lines for any signs of rubbing or wear (as well as any leaking or seepage).

It's not hard, or unusual. People have been changing tires as long as cars have been around. Yes, morons have expired or been hurt doing it - but because the didn't think and they made bonehead moves. People do it on the side of the freeway each day - surely you can manage it in your driveway/street/garage.

Check here, and other places on the web for DIYs if you're unsure, but reading any car manual will set you right. Changing a tire on a BMW is no different than on a Chevy.

As for TPMS, it'll either be the right unit for your car and you'll need to do the reset (RTM), you can't screw it up.

If the tires were previously mounted on another car, they're likely balanced. If you feel a vibration, then head to the tire shop.


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Old 11-02-2013, 08:43 AM
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Idiot question about changing wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmatre View Post
Hey guys,

The OP isn't talking about brain surgery, he's changing a tire.

All these dire warnings about things that can go wrong are pathetic.

If you want to change your tire, then check your manual, or an older version (when BMWs had spares) and follow the directions.

My wife has changed several flats herself, so these doomsayers must be real pantywaists. Maybe I should as her to do a DIY write up.

OP, you're changing one OEM wheel for another. They'll fit. Get the right tools, do it in a flat place, set the parking brake and block the opposite wheel front & back, and enjoy getting to know your car that much better.

While you've got each wheel off, look around. Look at the amount of brake pad left (check YouTube if unsure what you're looking for), check each shock for leakage (dripping oil down the shock body), check rubber bushings where each suspension arm mounts on both sides (look for obvious tears or damage - if it's bad it'll look different than the others, don't worry - you'll know), check brake lines for any signs of rubbing or wear (as well as any leaking or seepage).

It's not hard, or unusual. People have been changing tires as long as cars have been around. Yes, morons have expired or been hurt doing it - but because the didn't think and they made bonehead moves. People do it on the side of the freeway each day - surely you can manage it in your driveway/street/garage.

Check here, and other places on the web for DIYs if you're unsure, but reading any car manual will set you right. Changing a tire on a BMW is no different than on a Chevy.

As for TPMS, it'll either be the right unit for your car and you'll need to do the reset (RTM), you can't screw it up.

If the tires were previously mounted on another car, they're likely balanced. If you feel a vibration, then head to the tire shop.


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You make some good points, but are missing the fundamental concept, in my view.

Ladders, for example, are as simple as you can get. Yet without fail, people manage to injure or kill themselves regularly.

Personally, I would not describe the warnings in ladders as 'pathetic'.

Same here. Folks are trying to give advice to someone who's automotive background is completely unknown. It stands to reason that they would err on the side of caution.

Ymmv of course.




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Old 11-02-2013, 09:08 AM
dmatre dmatre is offline
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Idiot question about changing wheels

Just a clarification: I'm not against precautions & following directions, in fact much the opposite.

I do, however, hate when people give poor advice to someone who doesnt know better, and scares them out of doing something that almost everyone can do.

Similar to saying "don't climb on that ladder, it's too dangerous. Better to pay your hard-earned money to someone who will do it for you".

Working on my car is like sex with my wife: I'm not going to pay someone for something I can do myself, knowing that they likely won't do it as well anyway...


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Last edited by dmatre; 11-02-2013 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:40 AM
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Idiot question about changing wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmatre View Post
Just a clarification: I'm not against precautions & following directions, in fact much the opposite.

I do, however, hate when people give poor advice to someone who doesnt know better, and scares them out of doing something that almost everyone can do.

Similar to saying "don't climb on that ladder, it's too dangerous. Better to pay your hard-earned money to someone who will do it for you".

Working on my car is like sex with my wife: I'm not going to pay someone for something I can do myself, knowing that they likely won't do it as well anyway...


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I can live with this.


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