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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-31-2013, 09:51 PM
gmorgan gmorgan is offline
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530xi water pump & thermastat replacement

Any good videos on how to replace the waterpump and thermastat on a 2006 E60 530xi model? Thanks in advance!

-Greg
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  #2  
Old 10-31-2013, 11:29 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Re: 530xi water pump & thermastat replacement

Not sure about a video, but there are DIY guides. Be careful with thermostat gasket. I am not able to get that right after two attempt. I have a thread on that here ..... The same thread has a link to a good DIY guide.

Sent from my Droid bug
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2013, 03:18 PM
stmoore01 stmoore01 is offline
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The guide is very helpful, I used it about a year ago on my 2006 530i Be prepared to get frustrated, tired and sore (unless you have access to a lift) and wear eye gear when pulling the hoses as you are going to get splashed by coolant. All in all it took about four hours when I did it, but I could do it again in an hour and a half next time.
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2013, 07:23 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Here you go -- bav auto

http://blog.bavauto.com/14581/

Did the job this summer. About 3 hours. Vid helps
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Last edited by banglenot; 11-01-2013 at 07:24 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2013, 07:43 AM
pcy pcy is online now
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Car ramps will help you to get enough room under the car. Dropping the sway bar gives you more room to work with (you don't need to remove it entirely, just remove the 4 bolts for the brackets and let it drop, out of the way).

When putting back everything, don't tighten any of the hose-clamps. As you line-up all the hoses, tighten the hose clamps just enough so that they stay there. That will allow you to move/twist the hose as necessary. After everything is lined-up, tighten everything. Careful with the connectors on the water pump and the thermostat.

Don't forget to go thru the bleed process.

Last edited by pcy; 11-02-2013 at 07:51 AM.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2013, 10:33 AM
gmorgan gmorgan is offline
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all good advice. I completed the project yesterday and have to say it did take me more than 4 hours. The key to the hose clamp removal and reinstallation was a flexiable drive extention. The bleed process appears to have worked. Took about 10 minutes. I ran the car and all seems to be fine. I would say the sraped up hands and sorness from being on my back for hours was well worth the $600+ savings. Thanks fellas for the input.

-Greg
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2013, 07:16 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmorgan View Post
all good advice. I completed the project yesterday and have to say it did take me more than 4 hours. The key to the hose clamp removal and reinstallation was a flexiable drive extention. The bleed process appears to have worked. Took about 10 minutes. I ran the car and all seems to be fine. I would say the sraped up hands and sorness from being on my back for hours was well worth the $600+ savings. Thanks fellas for the input.

-Greg
Greg what lubricant did you use on the thermostat gasket?
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2013, 07:38 PM
pcy pcy is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Greg what lubricant did you use on the thermostat gasket?
OP replaced electric water pump and thermostat on N52 engine.

I think you are thinking about M54 engine.
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  #9  
Old 11-10-2013, 01:54 AM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcy View Post
OP replaced electric water pump and thermostat on N52 engine.

I think you are thinking about M54 engine.
Correct, not sure where did I miss the N52 engine, as it was never mentioned before.

None the less, I was thinking about M54 as the thermostat gasket is a problem for me. And I am trying to figure out the lubricant. Different places I have read says, coolant concentrate or silicon grease. Any suggestions are welcome on what people have used that works.
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  #10  
Old 11-10-2013, 07:32 AM
wcr3d wcr3d is offline
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Pcy gathered that from the post title. "530xi", only made for two years (06,07), both with the N52. Personally, learning this info the hard way. :-)
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2013, 12:03 AM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcr3d View Post
Pcy gathered that from the post title. "530xi", only made for two years (06,07), both with the N52. Personally, learning this info the hard way. :-)
Thanks for clarifying, glad to know I didn't miss the information but it was addition personal learnt knowledge. As I always say, there are guru's on these forums who have better experience than most $tealers.

Back to my question though, if some one can share the lubricant that works on the M54 thermostat gasket that would be much appreciated. Post here or on in my thread, which ever is easier.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...188&highlight=
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2013, 10:25 AM
limeykraut limeykraut is offline
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Not sure what happened to my first post - Any advice on the brand of water pump and thermostat to use? Stick to OEM? Pierburg (which may or may not be OE)? Aftermarket? - I'm at about 62K and thinking I may want to do this as preventative maintenance as well..
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2013, 04:02 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limeykraut View Post
Not sure what happened to my first post - Any advice on the brand of water pump and thermostat to use? Stick to OEM? Pierburg (which may or may not be OE)? Aftermarket? - I'm at about 62K and thinking I may want to do this as preventative maintenance as well..
I used Pierburg after my '07 left my wife by the side of the road last summer. Actually, since the failure is entirely electronic, I think 6 years since the failed unit was built probably means the new ones are reliable. That's plenty for the engineers to hear of the failure and release a new rev.
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  #14  
Old 11-12-2013, 05:35 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limeykraut View Post
Not sure what happened to my first post - Any advice on the brand of water pump and thermostat to use? Stick to OEM? Pierburg (which may or may not be OE)? Aftermarket? - I'm at about 62K and thinking I may want to do this as preventative maintenance as well..
Thermostat, stick with OEM which is Behr. For water pump, the OEM is not bad as now a days it comes with a metal propeller. But you have better options of performance pumps I think there is a stewart ones are good. I am talking about the T-stat and pump on M54 here by the way. And if you have M54, you will an lubricant for the T-stat gasket, which I am trying to find myself. Hope that helps.
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  #15  
Old 11-13-2013, 06:31 AM
limeykraut limeykraut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Thermostat, stick with OEM which is Behr. For water pump, the OEM is not bad as now a days it comes with a metal propeller. But you have better options of performance pumps I think there is a stewart ones are good. I am talking about the T-stat and pump on M54 here by the way. And if you have M54, you will an lubricant for the T-stat gasket, which I am trying to find myself. Hope that helps.

I have the N52, so I think that's different from yours. It seems the 60K mark is when you get to the danger-zone of getting left by the side of the road. I think that's ridiculous, especially since they go without any warning apparently, but there ya go...gotta deal with what we got, right?
So Pierburg, plus thermostat, in the area of $480 all in, plus a few hours of knuckle scraping
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  #16  
Old 11-23-2013, 03:33 PM
chebowitz chebowitz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmorgan View Post
all good advice. I completed the project yesterday and have to say it did take me more than 4 hours. The key to the hose clamp removal and reinstallation was a flexiable drive extention. The bleed process appears to have worked. Took about 10 minutes. I ran the car and all seems to be fine. I would say the sraped up hands and sorness from being on my back for hours was well worth the $600+ savings. Thanks fellas for the input.

-Greg
I too have a 2006 530xi and am trying to do the same job. I can't seem to figure out how to remove the water pump hoses. I watched the BavAuto video but that's for a 335 so the layout of where the water pump is relative to the structural frame of the car is not the same as our cars. The water pump for the 2006 530xi is directly above the steel frame and there's no way to access or even see the water pump hose clamps. Is there a particular order you did things? Did you find a DIY exactly for our cars? Any help would be very much appreciated.
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2013, 10:02 AM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chebowitz View Post
I too have a 2006 530xi and am trying to do the same job. I can't seem to figure out how to remove the water pump hoses. I watched the BavAuto video but that's for a 335 so the layout of where the water pump is relative to the structural frame of the car is not the same as our cars. The water pump for the 2006 530xi is directly above the steel frame and there's no way to access or even see the water pump hose clamps. Is there a particular order you did things? Did you find a DIY exactly for our cars? Any help would be very much appreciated.
One thing people don't realize is that the right side wheel shroud can be removed to give you the ability to reach in from the side. Also, you can drop the right wheel, turn it and get even more access from the side.
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  #18  
Old 11-24-2013, 11:13 AM
chebowitz chebowitz is offline
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Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
One thing people don't realize is that the right side wheel shroud can be removed to give you the ability to reach in from the side. Also, you can drop the right wheel, turn it and get even more access from the side.
Thanks banglenot for chiming in. I see you have an 2007 530i, which is close to the same car as mine. Not sure if the X drive affects access to the water pump or thermostat.

Did you remove the right side wheel shroud when you replaced the water pump and thermostat? When you say drop the right wheel, turn it, are you saying removing the wheel too?

Last edited by chebowitz; 11-24-2013 at 11:35 AM.
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  #19  
Old 11-24-2013, 12:49 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chebowitz View Post
Thanks banglenot for chiming in. I see you have an 2007 530i, which is close to the same car as mine. Not sure if the X drive affects access to the water pump or thermostat.

Did you remove the right side wheel shroud when you replaced the water pump and thermostat? When you say drop the right wheel, turn it, are you saying removing the wheel too?
Mine isn't an XI, so I'm not personally familiar with R&R of the water pump on that car.

But, when I did my non-xi, I didn't use jackstands, cause I don't like them. So I actually use solid concrete blocks with carpet for scratch padding under the front jacking points. This means the wheels are safely up in the air without ramps, and I can remove the lugnuts to drop off the right hand wheel. Then I remove the wheelwell shroud and turn the wheels to right lock to give room behind the disc rotor. That gives me room to work from both the side and the bottom should I need it.

Made it much easier for me; I can't speak 100% for working in the area with a transfer case and front driveshafts.
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Last edited by banglenot; 11-24-2013 at 12:51 PM.
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2013, 01:36 PM
chebowitz chebowitz is offline
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Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
Mine isn't an XI, so I'm not personally familiar with R&R of the water pump on that car.

But, when I did my non-xi, I didn't use jackstands, cause I don't like them. So I actually use solid concrete blocks with carpet for scratch padding under the front jacking points. This means the wheels are safely up in the air without ramps, and I can remove the lugnuts to drop off the right hand wheel. Then I remove the wheelwell shroud and turn the wheels to right lock to give room behind the disc rotor. That gives me room to work from both the side and the bottom should I need it.

Made it much easier for me; I can't speak 100% for working in the area with a transfer case and front driveshafts.
Thanks again banglenot for responding. I'm using jackstands, not ramps. I examined what additional access removing the wheelwell shroud will offer. It may help but I think there is reduced access due to the transfer case. I'm going to consider doing that.

Meanwhile, I assume the nipple end of the water pump (w/p) on your car is directly above the structural frame like mine is, so access to the w/p hose clamps is effectively impossible. Is this correct?

(side note: I got a flex shaft driver with 6mm & 7mm socket to help remove the hose clamps.)

Did you remove the t-stat before the w/p? This may or may not do the trick but I'm thinking to start with removing the front t-stat quick disconnect hoses first to allow access to the w/p hose clamps.

Do you remember the removal order for the job?

My fear is that I may be able to get the old parts off but getting the new ones on and securing the hose clamps may be the bigger problem.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:34 PM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Thanks again banglenot for responding. I'm using jackstands, not ramps. I examined what additional access removing the wheelwell shroud will offer. It may help but I think there is reduced access due to the transfer case. I'm going to consider doing that.

Meanwhile, I assume the nipple end of the water pump (w/p) on your car is directly above the structural frame like mine is, so access to the w/p hose clamps is effectively impossible. Is this correct? Sorry, i don't remember.

(side note: I got a flex shaft driver with 6mm & 7mm socket to help remove the hose clamps.)

[B]Did you remove the t-stat before the w/p?[B] I believe I removed the tsat first. The "u" tube was very tight, even after the clamps were loosened, so it was more convenient to twist and pull off the end connected to the tstat, then once the tstat was removed the pump came out. But reassembly was easier since the u tube went on more easily, so I put the tstat and pump together. If I had to do it again, I'd replace the u-tube, since it's the one item that'll be a bitch to replace when I reach hose replacement time. Mike Miller of Roundel recommends hose replacement at 150K miles.. This may or may not do the trick but I'm thinking to start with removing the front t-stat quick disconnect hoses first to allow access to the w/p hose clamps.

Do you remember the removal order for the job? Tstat, then pump and utube together

My fear is that I may be able to get the old parts off but getting the new ones on and securing the hose clamps may be the bigger problem. Can't speak for an xi, but mine was patience and a little knuckle busting. Tip: put the clamps on the u tube but leave them loose. That way you can shift them around to get the right access. Just note where they were when you took them off. But if you can't reach them, they can be flipped over and get access from another angle.
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Last edited by banglenot; 11-24-2013 at 04:47 PM.
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  #22  
Old 12-21-2013, 03:21 AM
06530IDAN 06530IDAN is offline
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Hi Banglenot,

If the U-tube is tight, would it be simpler of the process if I just cut it off and replace it with a new one? Once I get that off, will the other hoses be any easier or not? What can I disconnect if I remove the wheel well shroud? Approximately, what does an Indy shop charge for the labor on this ?

This thread is great, but it's scaring me. LOL

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
Thanks again banglenot for responding. I'm using jackstands, not ramps. I examined what additional access removing the wheelwell shroud will offer. It may help but I think there is reduced access due to the transfer case. I'm going to consider doing that.

Meanwhile, I assume the nipple end of the water pump (w/p) on your car is directly above the structural frame like mine is, so access to the w/p hose clamps is effectively impossible. Is this correct? Sorry, i don't remember.

(side note: I got a flex shaft driver with 6mm & 7mm socket to help remove the hose clamps.)

[B]Did you remove the t-stat before the w/p?[B] I believe I removed the tsat first. The "u" tube was very tight, even after the clamps were loosened, so it was more convenient to twist and pull off the end connected to the tstat, then once the tstat was removed the pump came out. But reassembly was easier since the u tube went on more easily, so I put the tstat and pump together. If I had to do it again, I'd replace the u-tube, since it's the one item that'll be a bitch to replace when I reach hose replacement time. Mike Miller of Roundel recommends hose replacement at 150K miles.. This may or may not do the trick but I'm thinking to start with removing the front t-stat quick disconnect hoses first to allow access to the w/p hose clamps.

Do you remember the removal order for the job? Tstat, then pump and utube together

My fear is that I may be able to get the old parts off but getting the new ones on and securing the hose clamps may be the bigger problem. Can't speak for an xi, but mine was patience and a little knuckle busting. Tip: put the clamps on the u tube but leave them loose. That way you can shift them around to get the right access. Just note where they were when you took them off. But if you can't reach them, they can be flipped over and get access from another angle.
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  #23  
Old 01-01-2014, 08:50 AM
06530IDAN 06530IDAN is offline
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Hey guys,

Happy New Year!

Can someone please tell me if I need to remove the three hoses (see red arrows in the pic) to get access to the water/thermostat assembly?

Or will dropping the swap bar be enough to get those three hoses out of the way?

Thanks!

Daniel
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