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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-03-2013, 03:34 PM
Rahulk Rahulk is offline
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2006 E90 Jerky when you stop fix! DYI Transmission

(Also a DYI for Transmission overhaul for a zf auto hp6/19)

So I have a 2006 E90 325i. with an auto.

The symptom are: When you come to a full stop, it stops but then jerks forward. pretty hard. You can avoid it by coming to a rolling stop and braking and releasing and gradually coming to a stop.... Dont worry this is not the DYI!

The repair is the Following.

Replace the:

Transmission Pan/ Filter
Transmission Pan Bolts (24)
Transmission Fluid 8 or 9 liters (lifeguard6)
Mechatronic Sleeve
Valve Body Seal
Valve Body Solenoids
fill plug

go to thectsc . c o m for parts or to see what you need. The Solenoid are only available from them.... the parts you get drop shipped directly from ZF


Tools needed:
1/4 ratchet, with 8mm to 14 mm sockets
Torxs sockets T40, T27 and T30 (I think thats all)
Transfer Pump
Tons of rags
and card board/ news paper
4 jack stands
8 mm and 10 mm socket
8 mm allen key
oil drain pan catch

Software
INPA - to do the adaptation reset
TIS - Overview of how BMW says how to do it.

Safety/(PPE)

Gloves
Eye protection - goggles that are scuba mask
clothes that will be oily forever
Gojo - afterwards!
And a degreaser to clean up after.


1.) Okay the first step is to Jack the card up on the jack stands. make sure is safe and secure.

2.) Remove the underbody cover, heat shield, and small supports that block a clean view of the transmission pan.

3.) Drain the transmission fluid, be ready fpor it to splash a bit... at the same time remove the fill plug, its torqued on tight, so use a wrench or a rubber mllet to break it loose,removing this part is very difficult.

4.) Once its stopped draining, remove the oil pan bolts (24) leave the 4 corners on for last. Reminder, there is still 1 Liter of fluid in there. discard it (make sure the oil tub still has an o-ring on it, if not remove it from the mechatronic (valve body))

5. locate the electronic connector, - Mechatronic connector, rear right corner, unplug the connector - you can do it with out removig any of the support parts. Pus hit aside back there.

6. Back to the transmission, pull the white tab down from the mechatronic, this releases the mechatronic connector sleeve, pull it out with out twisting (back right outside of transmission) keep itaround for later. not the oreintation tab inside of it.

7.) Remove the 10 larger bolts on the mechatronic valve body. The 10 bolts have large heads and are T40 bolts. a 11mm socket will not fit around them. loosen all first at leave 2 intill the end. warning - Mechatrnic is about 30 pounds, covered in oil, and as you loosen the bolts oil comes out faster. The part is very fragile, and you dont want to scratch any of the mounting surfaces. remove and put aside mechatronic.

8.) Let transmission continue to drain oil, and remove the valve body seal, it just comes out easily. replace now. lube gasket with atf.

9.) remove the plastic part of the mechatronic - 6 bolts you can tell by seeing which 6 bolts go thru the valve body. after the bolts are out push the pins and it will come out. Set aside. Make sure no oil enters the connector. Note sliding guide for shifter valve prior to removing.

10. remove the strip above the solenoids with the torxs screws, this will let you remove the solenoids.

11. Remove and replace the solenoids... pull firmly out to remove, and push to install. note previous orientation, and install the same way.

12. Reinstall solenoid hold down strip and plastic with the 6 thru screws. Take time to use the old mechatronic sleeve and see how it slips into place. Do not lock it in, but feel how it installs. Also make sure sliding tab attached to the mechatronic in its appropriate notch- this is critical, otherwise it will not come out of part.

13. Carefully install the mechatronic into the transmission. Make sure the valve body seel is still in, and didnt fall out. Install the screws that are toward the center of the mecharnic, and slowly install all the screws and torque to spec. make sure the sliding noth is lined up with the notch that is in the transmission, This is critical. Torque bolts to spec.

14. Install the mechatronic sleeve. once you feel that it is in push firmly- very hard and push the white tab up, it should move up easily. attach the connector back to the transmission.

15. Install the oil pan, with the 24, in a cross pattern. Torqued to spec. Verify drain plug is also torqued to spec.

16. Filling procedure. Using the transfer pump, transfer at first 4 to 4.5 liters of oil into the transmission (unitl it leaks out of the fill hole). Start car and while running (in park (no wheels contacting anything!!)) go back in and continue filling toe transmission. If you fill the car up with 8 L of oil or more (till it starts leaking, cap fill hole with new plug and you are done. if it only took about 6 liters, go back into the car and change gears manually 1-6 with foot on brake) and attempt to refill with out it spilling out. Note if you filled it with 8L plus, it will immediately leak out. Cap immediately to prevent loss of fluid.

17. Let car cool, clean around pan and after an hour verify that there are no leaks. After another our attach trim removed, and lower car.

18 . Adaptation Reset - Use INPA to reset adaptation for transmission. Prior to driving. Car may be gerky shifting otherwise.

19 Complete.


If you know the Torque specs please share -

As for Part number's check the website above or realoem. I dont want to be responsible. Solenoids are model year and drivetrain specific, and are actually tied to the ZF transmission part number. Call the seller before buying....

Test Drove the car - and shifts moothly, and no jerking. Feels like a new car. Also I think I cured the shifting issue I was having too....

costly project $700 to $800 in parts, but well worth it. I did it at 200K miles


I never flushed the transmission before - the old fluid was dark brown black. The magnets has fine iron powder which is normal. not more that 1/4 teaspoon total on both. The only way I could tell it was iron was by using another magnet. It was so fine, it could rub into my skin!

Also destroy all used parts. so it doesnt enter the supply chain around you.... hammers work fine.

Cuddos to schpenxel
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2013, 04:01 PM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Bravo! Thoroughly enjoyed reading your post!
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:21 AM
Rahulk Rahulk is offline
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2006 E90 Jerky when you stop fix! DYI Transmission

I need to go back an proof read/ grammar check my dyi... Didn't have the time earlier.

The biggest improvement I've seen is with the stopping power. Stops way faster and smoother. I think the torque converter is filling up faster and all. Well worth it.


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Old 11-05-2013, 01:16 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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The jerky feeling you described is cause by NIC, neutral idle control. It disengages the drive train when coming to a stop to save gas and decrease emissions.

You can code it off but people claim gas mileage has decreased.

I've just gotten used to it and left off the brake as I come to a complete stop.
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  #5  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:04 PM
Rahulk Rahulk is offline
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2006 E90 Jerky when you stop fix! DYI Transmission

I thought that too.... But the transmission overhaul I did completely fixed the problem.... I'm getting used to braking normally again... Put 150+ miles and the jerking stops are gone....

I wonder if BMW knows about the problem.... The official fix would be a mechatronic replacement, and the part alone goes for close to $3k. The thing that sucks is that it never thru any codes so pin pointing the issue isn't going to be easy....


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  #6  
Old 11-06-2013, 06:56 AM
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Thanks for posting.
There something that I can't never do myself.
How much all parts cost you?
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2013, 07:29 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Maybe it's the solenoids that did it. I flushed my trans fluid at 42k miles and had the jerking before and after. I'm currently at 99k miles and am going to flush again at 100k, but also swap the pan out.

Maybe I'll do the solenoids too
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2013, 09:34 AM
Rahulk Rahulk is offline
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Mein Auto: E53 N62; E90 N52
2006 E90 Jerky when you stop fix! DYI Transmission

I think it was the solenoids... Prices as follows. I think the solenoids have a life of about 6 years or 150K miles... They might be rebuild able, but no one does it right now...

Solenoids $465 (all 7)
Filter/pan/gasket $120
Lifeguard6 $205 for 12L -you only need 8L
Valve body gasket $12
Mechatronic sleeve gasket $15
24 bolts $47

So it's a little pricey



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  #9  
Old 11-06-2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahulk View Post
I think it was the solenoids... Prices as follows. I think the solenoids have a life of about 6 years or 150K miles... They might be rebuild able, but no one does it right now...

Solenoids $465 (all 7)
Filter/pan/gasket $120
Lifeguard6 $205 for 12L -you only need 8L
Valve body gasket $12
Mechatronic sleeve gasket $15
24 bolts $47

So it's a little pricey



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Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 01-13-2014, 03:44 PM
Beth Jackson Beth Jackson is offline
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Great tutorial.. I also found some information about fixing this BMW Transmission on http://www.twincharlotte.com . They are a local repair shop in Charlotte NC but their blog is full of useful tips and diagnosis for repair and combined with your photos, I was able to solve this problem myself.
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  #11  
Old 01-13-2014, 05:58 PM
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BB_cuda BB_cuda is offline
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Here are 2 documents that contain torque specs for the trans pan, drain plug and fill plug. I got them from Klaus at the same place that OP got his fluid and transpan. Enjoy. The site for the fluid the OP mentioned has these same documents. I'm planning to do a fluid change at 35,000 miles. I know it is early but the idea is to do it often as i won't be flushing out the torque converter only a fluid change. Planning to do every 35,000.
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  #12  
Old 08-23-2015, 10:35 AM
sle39lvr sle39lvr is offline
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Does anyone have part number(s) for the solenoids?
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  #13  
Old 08-23-2015, 02:07 PM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sle39lvr View Post
Does anyone have part number(s) for the solenoids?
[click here] for all things ZF, incl solenoids....
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Old 08-23-2015, 03:01 PM
sle39lvr sle39lvr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post
[click here] for all things ZF, incl solenoids....
Thank you!
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:06 PM
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2015, 11:14 AM
sle39lvr sle39lvr is offline
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How do I know which transmission I have?

E90 2008 6SP Auto.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2015, 11:31 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sle39lvr View Post
How do I know which transmission I have?

E90 2008 6SP Auto.
Most likely a GM for that model year.

Put your vin into realoem.com and look at the transmissions section. It should list the trans manufacture and model in the notes.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2015, 11:49 AM
sle39lvr sle39lvr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
Most likely a GM for that model year.

Put your vin into realoem.com and look at the transmissions section. It should list the trans manufacture and model in the notes.
Thank you.

I am getting all over under transmission: GA6L45R
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  #19  
Old 09-10-2015, 12:21 PM
feeaga feeaga is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahulk View Post
I thought that too.... But the transmission overhaul I did completely fixed the problem.... I'm getting used to braking normally again... Put 150+ miles and the jerking stops are gone....

I wonder if BMW knows about the problem.... The official fix would be a mechatronic replacement, and the part alone goes for close to $3k. The thing that sucks is that it never thru any codes so pin pointing the issue isn't going to be easy....


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Hello Rahulk. I see you changed your Solenoids a few years back and it solved the issue of the car jerking right before coming to a complete stop. I was hoping you could let me know if the problem has returned.

I also have a similar issue, it happens when I'm coming to a stop around 5mph. My car currently has 115k miles on it. There is no other issue with the transmission other than the dreaded jerk. I contacted the folks over at ctsc and I'm ready to buy the parts but I was hoping you could give me an update on your situation 2 yrs after you changed the solenoids.

Thank you.
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  #20  
Old 09-25-2015, 06:03 AM
al330 al330 is offline
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'06 330i Tranny Issues

I'm desperate! My 2006 BMW 330i (auto transmission) has a bump/jerk while in “D”, right as the car comes to a stop. Took to BMW stealership, they “upgraded the software”. Upgrade didn’t work as car was doing the same thing before I even drove out of their service bay. Took to an Indy shop, they rebuilt transmission (new mechatronics unit and rebuilt torque converter). The car still jerks at stop. I've noticed when the car is in “DS” mode, it does NOT jerk at a stop. I seems to me that the car does not downshift to 1st gear when in “DS” mode and starts from 2nd gear. In “Manual” mode when coming to a stop and I do NOT manually downshift, the car will downshift itself but only to 2nd gear (with no jerk since its not going to 1st) and takes off in 2nd gear in “M” mode. When stopped in manual mode and I shift the car from 2nd to 1st, I get the jerk. Seems like the jerk is coming from the shift from 2nd to 1st. Some blogs say could be NIC or Guibo Joint? Could a possible fix be to program transmission not to shift into 1st gear when in “D” mode, as car takes off in 2nd gear while in DS and Manual mode anyway? Please help!!
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:24 AM
sle39lvr sle39lvr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al330 View Post
Took to an Indy shop, they rebuilt transmission (new mechatronics unit and rebuilt torque converter).
Hope you don't mind if I ask you how much it cost you?

I have a vibration in low rpm's with mine and the dealer decided to change the transmission oil and put an additive. If that doesn't take out the vibration after few hundred miles, I was advised to get my transmission rebuilt.
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  #22  
Old 10-13-2015, 10:19 AM
al330 al330 is offline
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Sorry to hear about the vibration. Hopefully, the oil and additive fix the problem. The total cost for getting my transmission rebuilt was $4,600. Good luck!
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  #23  
Old 11-29-2015, 08:00 PM
feeaga feeaga is offline
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Resloved jerk when coming to a stop

My 2006 325i (118k miles) did jerk forward when coming to a complete stop (around 5mph). At first it was not so bad but as time went on the jerk became more noticeable. The car would also downshift very hard when I would begin ascending into the parking deck of my apartment building - the entry is very steep (goes from ground floor straight to the third floor).

Fist I took the car to the BMW dealership and the reprogrammed the transmission software. That did not work and was a waste of $230.

I did some research and found this post. Before I went all in and purchase the solenoids, my mechanic (independent shop) suggested I change the transmission oil and transmission filter (its built into the transmission pan) as the transmission oil might be low. He said if I needed to change the solenoids, he could recapture the new trans oil and use it in the future so I would not have to repurchase more oil.

After the oil was changed, I did notice the trans would shift better and would not downshift hard on the ascent into my parking deck but the jerk when coming to a complete stop persisted. I decided to drive the car for a while to see if the jerk would resolve itself.

After one month of driving with the new trans oil, I decided to go ahead and buy the solenoids along with the foam strip, mechatronic seal adapter and sealing sleeve kit. The mechanic took about 3 hrs to remove the oil change the parts and refill the trans.

I asked the mechanic to reset the transmission adaptation after he was done and he did however, he connected his machine to my car when the car was running. He assured me that the car running was not an issue and the reset was done.

Thankfully, the jerk when coming to a stop went away but I encountered a new set of issues. My car now shifted rough through the gears during acceleration and as the car slowed down, it would downshift very hard. The mechanic over the phone told me to drive it for a week to see if the issue would resolve it self.

Well, after four days, I returned and asked him to reset the transmission adaptation again but not have the car running, only accessory on. He agreed.

As soon as the adaptation was rest (2nd time), the car shifted as if it were new. I can say that after one month, the car has shifted without issue.

Last edited by feeaga; 03-27-2016 at 04:17 PM.
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  #24  
Old 01-17-2016, 09:13 AM
delcom delcom is offline
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Thank you Rahulk for the post!

I am about to buy a 2006 E90 for a bargain because it has this issue. Rahulk did the original fix in Orlando, feeaga did it in Miami, and now I am doing it in Tampa. Go Florida!

I am going to take a few months coming up with the money. Does anyone know how long can I drive the car like that before doing too much damage? My daily commute is 1.2mi
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  #25  
Old 03-27-2016, 06:29 AM
delcom delcom is offline
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Success!!! I changed the solenoids, seal adapter, valve body seal, pan/filter and fluid myself yesterday. I can't feel my arms today but it was worth it. It is stopping perfectly!
I still need to do the reset to get rid of a little bit of jerkyness. Since I did the mechanic work and my real work is in computers, my wife won't accept I cannot do the reset myself.
I have the adapter but need the software and instructions if anybody can point me in the right direction.

Anyway, thanks so much for this post!
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