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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 11-10-2013, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
You're kidding right? If you are worried about adding 2-3 feet of minimum stopping distance then you shouldn't carry passengers in your car (adding passenger weight increases stopping distance).

And I hope you don't let your tires wear. Tire Rack tested a BMW with new tires (10/32" tread depth) and then tires still considered good at 4/32" tread depth. Stopping distance for 70mph to zero on new tires was was 195ft, compared to 290ft for the 4/32" tread depth (almost a 100ft difference).

Too many factors are involved in stopping distance to worry about a 2-3 foot difference based on brake pads.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...ay.jsp?ttid=85
Tire Rack did not test brake systems, but tires with varying tread depths in a simulated hydroplaning situation.
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  #27  
Old 11-10-2013, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by legend700 View Post
Tire Rack did not test brake systems, but tires with varying tread depths in a simulated hydroplaning situation.
I never said they tested braking systems. They tested BRAKING DISTANCES with the tires being the variable factor.

Tire Rack tested only one of the many factors, including brake pads (and correct bedding), disc condition, brake fluid condition, suspension condition, weight of car (including passengers and cargo), tire type and tire wear (especially unusual wear), proper wheel/tire balance, road surface and any lubricants such as water, oil or a combination thereof, ALL figure into minimum stopping distance. Many of these factors have a far greater effect on minimum stopping distances than brake pad material, and nearly all are changing (read deteriorating) constantly in a car driven on a daily basis.

My point was that taking only one factor, brake pad material and saying that there is only one best choice based on shaving a theoretical 2 or 3 feet off a stopping distance is a myopic approach.

Last edited by bimmerfan52; 11-10-2013 at 07:57 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-10-2013, 09:57 PM
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Reverting to brake pad material, the topic of this thread, and presuming that all other variables are the same, I prefer the OEM pads for their solid feel and initial bite. The extra brake dust is not a deterrent since my yearly mileage is only 7 to 8K miles/year and the dust never accumulates and cleaning the wheels is therefore easy. If they stop quicker, better yet.
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  #29  
Old 11-11-2013, 01:40 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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And further reverting to the OPs original subject of clean wheels, the brake dust drives me nuts. For me it accumulates in a matter of 30-40 miles.

I put ceramics on my wife's Lexus and have seen a significant reduction in brake dust, with seemingly no loss of stopping power.

And I never have liked the "bite" of the OE pads as anything more than a gentle feathering of the brake pedal when coming to a stop is a jerky experience.

I will certainly switch to ceramic when my pads are due to be changed and look forward to a more linear pedal response.
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  #30  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:57 AM
ncBeemer ncBeemer is offline
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Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
And further reverting to the OPs original subject of clean wheels, the brake dust drives me nuts. For me it accumulates in a matter of 30-40 miles.

I put ceramics on my wife's Lexus and have seen a significant reduction in brake dust, with seemingly no loss of stopping power.

And I never have liked the "bite" of the OE pads as anything more than a gentle feathering of the brake pedal when coming to a stop is a jerky experience.

I will certainly switch to ceramic when my pads are due to be changed and look forward to a more linear pedal response.

This is actually an annoyance to me as well... when I try to roll to a stop at red lights suddenly the OE brakes grab causing a sudden jerky stop.
I wasn't even considering ceramic pads up until you mentioned this. Now I have to seriously consider these pads to fix the jerkiness with the bonus of cleaner wheels.
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  #31  
Old 11-11-2013, 08:34 AM
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Just returned from a 25 mile ride to check out my new Cobb AP tune and during the final cool down period on local roads with many lights and intersections paid special attention to braking behavior when coming to a full stop. No jerky stops. I seem to remember when first getting the car, I noticed some grabbing of the pads, and I am still on the same ones, and after 42K miles with 50K more to go (according to iDrive).

Maybe with the new aggressive tune installed, pads will be eaten up pretty quickly.
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  #32  
Old 11-11-2013, 08:39 AM
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@ncBeemer:
Not to hijack the thread. I just noticed that you have the Cobb Stg 1 Aggr tune installed. How long have you had it, and how are the plugs, coils, and turbos holding up?
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  #33  
Old 11-11-2013, 11:25 AM
ncBeemer ncBeemer is offline
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Originally Posted by legend700 View Post
@ncBeemer:
Not to hijack the thread. I just noticed that you have the Cobb Stg 1 Aggr tune installed. How long have you had it, and how are the plugs, coils, and turbos holding up?
I've only had Cobb AP for about 4 months.
I have not replaced plugs, coils or turbos thus far. I have no idea how they are holding up but from other threads here as well as elsewhere seems like the tune is fairly safe (only time will tell). Though I plan on replacing plugs soon.
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  #34  
Old 11-11-2013, 01:07 PM
BayAreaE60530i BayAreaE60530i is offline
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akebono brake pads are the ish !
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  #35  
Old 11-11-2013, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
And further reverting to the OPs original subject of clean wheels, the brake dust drives me nuts. For me it accumulates in a matter of 30-40 miles.

I put ceramics on my wife's Lexus and have seen a significant reduction in brake dust, with seemingly no loss of stopping power.

And I never have liked the "bite" of the OE pads as anything more than a gentle feathering of the brake pedal when coming to a stop is a jerky experience.

I will certainly switch to ceramic when my pads are due to be changed and look forward to a more linear pedal response.
The ceramics actually perform BETTER than the oem's on my Corvette. My son has the dusting on his Porshe Panamera. He likes what he sees on my car with the ceramics and is now seriously considering ceramics for his car.


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  #36  
Old 11-11-2013, 10:01 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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The ceramics actually perform BETTER than the oem's on my Corvette. My son has the dusting on his Porshe Panamera. He likes what he sees on my car with the ceramics and is now seriously considering ceramics for his car.


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I used EBC Red Stuff pads on the SC430. Pretty pricey, but they are solid. Which brand did you use on the Vette?
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  #37  
Old 11-12-2013, 09:21 PM
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I used EBC Red Stuff pads on the SC430. Pretty pricey, but they are solid. Which brand did you use on the Vette?
I had GM ceramics installed on the Vette 4 years ago because of the incessant squealing from the oem's. No problems from the ceramics, and the chrome wheels stay shiny!!


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  #38  
Old 11-12-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
I used EBC Red Stuff pads on the SC430. Pretty pricey, but they are solid. Which brand did you use on the Vette?
How do those perform? What about dust, noise? I ordered the complete set of Akebonos online for about $150. I'm happy to switch brands, though, when I replace oem's on the wife's 535i if another works as well for a better price.


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  #39  
Old 11-13-2013, 12:45 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Originally Posted by batmbl View Post
How do those perform? What about dust, noise? I ordered the complete set of Akebonos online for about $150. I'm happy to switch brands, though, when I replace oem's on the wife's 535i if another works as well for a better price.


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A little more dust than I expected, but it is really like throwing out four anchors when you mash the brake pedal. Nice linear feel and no noise.

I later used Akebonos on my daughter's Altima coupe and they really work well too (and it seems less dust than the Red Stuff).

Tough call.
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  #40  
Old 09-22-2014, 12:45 AM
countycop911 countycop911 is offline
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So I had the exact same problem on both of my BMW's. Have a 95 540i and a 2007 550i. The 95' has very "Webby" wheels if that is a word. Awful to clean, took longer to properly clean the wheels as the rest of the vehicle. Nevertheless I could no longer stand the black wheels and read up about ceramics. Changed them to Ceramics and never looked back. Matter of fact did not have to do anything other than a quick rinse after that. Bought a new 2007, same problem. Would wash the car and wheels, drive it around the block to help dry it and you could already see the dust accumulating on the wheels again. Switched to the Akebono Ceramic's in the first 500 miles. If someone wants the originals I still have them and will send to you if you pay the shipping. Best thing I ever did. I am fortunate because the vehicle has less than 20k on it but NEVER have to concentrate on cleaning the wheels again. They look like the day the rolled out of the factory with little or no effort to keep clean. Also in my opinion there is ZERO difference in braking performance, do not care what anyone says.
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  #41  
Old 09-22-2014, 07:16 AM
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What about the rotor wear, semaingly ceramic is much harder than the OEM pads and could cause significantly qicker wear of the rotors. I want to know what does it do to the rotor wear ratio. I am guessing you can run the OEM rotors with OEM pads for like 100K miles. I mean original rotors for 100kmiles with 4/5 changes of oem pads. But in the same situatation it could be 1:1 or 1:2 with 1 being the rotor and the 1or2 being the number of ceramic pads.

I am highly positive that the ceramics increases the Rotor wear significantly, any one who is a meetallurgy specialiest could chime on this please.

Javvy
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  #42  
Old 09-22-2014, 09:04 AM
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Where did you get the information with the 100k rotor life from? Just swapped the rears at 60k, and the fronts are due within the next 10k or so. You did not need precision tooling to tell that a 1/8 lip rendered the rotors scrap metal, and it is similar in front. The amount of dust strongly suggests the pads are OEM. Starting to see black deposit coming home from the car wash...

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  #43  
Old 09-22-2014, 02:58 PM
countycop911 countycop911 is offline
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What about the rotor wear, seemingly ceramic is much harder than the OEM pads and could cause significantly quicker wear of the rotors. I want to know what does it do to the rotor wear ratio. I am guessing you can run the OEM rotors with OEM pads for like 100K miles. I mean original rotors for 100kmiles with 4/5 changes of oem pads. But in the same situation it could be 1:1 or 1:2 with 1 being the rotor and the 1or2 being the number of ceramic pads.

I am highly positive that the ceramics increases the Rotor wear significantly, any one who is a metallurgy specialist could chime on this please.

Javvy
Personally I have not had to replace the Rotors after installing the Ceramics. On the 540 they have been on for ~ 8 years. That car is not driven that much as well. However, I have had an occasion to replace the Rotors and Pads on a X5, all original, and the Rotors were essentially destroyed. Not because of wearing the Pads down too close but because there was a significant ridge that ran along the outer edge of each rotor essentially there was material gone on the rotor surface. Dealer wanted > $2k for a complete Brake job and my they would not install ceramics of any kind. My friend with the X5 could not stand the filthy wheels any longer so we did it all for ~ $400. Asked him about performance and brake dust and he said he could not tell a difference in stopping power and never had to scrub the wheels again. I did change the tires on my 540 and checked the Rotors/Pads etc and I see no ridge of any kind.
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