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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2013, 11:50 PM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Unhappy electrical problem

I have a 1984 318i manual coupe w/ M10. I've been having issues w/ my blower motor. Finally got the motor fixed but still need the resistor. Any way I was driving it last night. I had the headlights, heater, and hazards on. I noticed that the interior and dash lights were dimmed by this.
Ok no prob. Turn heater off and back on and noticed it affect the cluster. The rpms were jumping around from 0-4k. It was also make the car sluggish. I could accelerate just fine with just lights on but go to turn heater on and car would kinda pause/ jump ( choppy accel.) Shut the car off and batttery was dead. By the way pressing brakes with all 3 on made it even worse. Don't know were to start. I'm pretty bad w/ electrical. Any ideas guys????
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2013, 04:44 AM
Billwill Billwill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984CJP View Post
I have a 1984 318i manual coupe w/ M10. I've been having issues w/ my blower motor. Finally got the motor fixed but still need the resistor. Any way I was driving it last night. I had the headlights, heater, and hazards on. I noticed that the interior and dash lights were dimmed by this.
Ok no prob. Turn heater off and back on and noticed it affect the cluster. The rpms were jumping around from 0-4k. It was also make the car sluggish. I could accelerate just fine with just lights on but go to turn heater on and car would kinda pause/ jump ( choppy accel.) Shut the car off and batttery was dead. By the way pressing brakes with all 3 on made it even worse. Don't know were to start. I'm pretty bad w/ electrical. Any ideas guys????
First check that the alternator is charging properly....put a voltmeter over the (re-charged) battery.

With ignition OFF it should read about 12.5 volts.

While turning engine over it should not drop down to 9 volts...this indicates a dead cell on the battery.

While engine running should go up to around 13.5 volts.

Sounds like your blower motor could be wired up to the wrong circuit or the motor is faulty....what did they do to fix the blower motor?

I would suggest you leave the blower switched off for a while....take some blankets to keep yourself warm....and see how everything is working and if your battery charges OK and maintains its charge!
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2013, 07:59 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Originally Posted by Billwill View Post
I would suggest you leave the blower switched off for a while....take some blankets to keep yourself warm..
Thats not really an option. I do the paper route. I NEED my windows defrosted!!!! So I tested the battery.
With car off--about 12.5v.
Turning over its in the 10-11v range
With car running its about 13.87v
The volts hold steady with car running. So doesn't that rule out alternator( Bad alt. kills your batt. with car on?)?? I also tested it with heater on and the volts continuously drop. A little faster with haz and headlights on. I should also say that 3 days after I replaced the blower fuse 20 blew. WTF??????
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  #4  
Old 12-03-2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1984CJP View Post
I also tested it with heater on and the volts continuously drop.
They should NOT continue to drop. They should drop slightly when a load comes on (like the heater fan) but recover to 13.8+ volts. 14.1 is closer to normal. The alternator is getting weak.
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2013, 01:35 AM
Billwill Billwill is offline
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I think your blower motor is faulty...or there is a short somewhere in that supply line to the blower.

Alternator may be on its way out but that does not explain a fuse blowing!
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  #6  
Old 12-06-2013, 03:42 AM
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What did you do to fix the blower motor ,replace it ? ,was the replacement used? ,or was it a wiring issue ? You need to replace the resistor ,since you know it's bad and having the fan running on high all the time is certainly not helping .It may be what happened to your used (if it is ) blower motor years of sitting in the junk yard then wide open on till it starts burning up everything it's hooked to (fuse 20). Also pull cover on the wires running to the blower motor back to the main harness (or try touching the wire running to the blower motor while the car is running ,is it getting hot? does it change the way you cars running if you move it.) If not it's like everybody else said the blower motor (unless you didn't ground it)
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:22 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Originally Posted by toybuilder View Post
What did you do to fix the blower motor ,replace it ? ,was the replacement used? ,or was it a wiring issue ?
It was a used motor. No wiring issue that i know of
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  #8  
Old 12-09-2013, 05:38 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Originally Posted by Billwill View Post
I think your blower motor is faulty...or there is a short somewhere in that supply line to the blower.

Alternator may be on its way out but that does not explain a fuse blowing!
Could the blower motor be faulty but still work?? It does squeak a little but my old one made music and worked fine. I was also thinking short. I mean the alternator does charge batt up w/o heat on. It doesn't deal w/ the heat but the p.o. blew fuse 21 to the point where the slot is burnt and you can't get a new fuse in. Also with the headlights on, the turn signal works. hen I hit the brakes it cuts off? Headlights off brake doesn't affect the turn signal?? Not sure but maybe the p.o. really shorted something bad.
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  #9  
Old 12-10-2013, 06:35 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Ok guys I NEED HELP. My car is no longe drivable. Its accelerating but w/ pauses( kinda jerky) On my way home from work all the lights, heat, etc. were working fine. Then the gets jumpy. I mean I would accelerate smoothly but car was jerking kinda like when you run out of gas (Not bogging out but the jerky motion)
When I left to go to my other job it was 10x worse. The pauses were longer, idle was up and down, and couldn't tell but i swear it was reving higher than the throttle called for. It was 12-18 degrees out tonight. It happens in all gears. I can smell fuel( but that could be from reving when it pauses) Could the alternator make your car jerky like that???? God I hope its the Alternator.
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  #10  
Old 12-10-2013, 07:20 AM
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Sounds like the coil is cutting out .I think you've shorted something in the engine harness out .It's causing your your coil to loose power, or it could be doing the same thing to your ECU. Either it's time for you to learn how to trace electrical problems in a vintage BMW or it's time to take the car to a BMW shop,with something unknown like this you need to take the car to somebody who works on old BMWs not the local gas station.Yes they may eventually figure out whats wrong with your car but the extra hrs they spend looking will cost you more than taking it to a specialist.Normally I'd say a good tech is a good tech but mystery electrical stuff is better left to an expert.
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  #11  
Old 12-10-2013, 08:52 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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I do all my own work and I do a damn good job. I do suck with certain aspects of electrical. Thing is dealers/ technicians are expensive and I'm on a budget. I want to make absolutely sure it is a "mysterious" elec prob. I gonna test alternator today.
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2013, 10:41 AM
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What do you do for a living ? I'm not saying you can't fix this but ,you seem a bit baffled and a BMW tech ,one who works with older BMWs will be able to sort out your problem in a timely fashion ,instead of poking at it and replacing parts unnecessarily .Trust me everyone is on a budget but keeping your car running is part of the budget for most of us and sometimes you just have to suck it up and go to somebody who knows how to fix it.Either that or you can do like some of the people her myself included who where interested in cars and become a tech ,but I don't recommend it the hours are long and the pay stinks (till you own the shop then the hours are just long).This really isn't a big mystery I think the blower was bad ,but I think you may have shorted something else by installing it. Now you need to trace everything in the on that circuit .Also you need to look for damage (places where it looks like the wires got hot).I have to go I'll get back later with some more suggestions.
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  #13  
Old 12-11-2013, 02:00 AM
Billwill Billwill is offline
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Originally Posted by 1984CJP View Post
Could the blower motor be faulty but still work?? It does squeak a little but my old one made music and worked fine. I was also thinking short. I mean the alternator does charge batt up w/o heat on. It doesn't deal w/ the heat but the p.o. blew fuse 21 to the point where the slot is burnt and you can't get a new fuse in. Also with the headlights on, the turn signal works. hen I hit the brakes it cuts off? Headlights off brake doesn't affect the turn signal?? Not sure but maybe the p.o. really shorted something bad.
Funnies with the brake/lights turn/signals like this are usually caused by bad grounds in the brake/turn/headlight fittings....add some more grounds...you can never have too many grounds.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:04 AM
Billwill Billwill is offline
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Originally Posted by 1984CJP View Post
Ok guys I NEED HELP. My car is no longe drivable. Its accelerating but w/ pauses( kinda jerky) On my way home from work all the lights, heat, etc. were working fine. Then the gets jumpy. I mean I would accelerate smoothly but car was jerking kinda like when you run out of gas (Not bogging out but the jerky motion)
When I left to go to my other job it was 10x worse. The pauses were longer, idle was up and down, and couldn't tell but i swear it was reving higher than the throttle called for. It was 12-18 degrees out tonight. It happens in all gears. I can smell fuel( but that could be from reving when it pauses) Could the alternator make your car jerky like that???? God I hope its the Alternator.

Yes if the alternator is struggling to deal with the current load demand then the injectors, spark etc. can battle a bit...have the alternator checked out....the regulator assembly at the rear of the alternator has two brushes that get shortened with wear and tear so this regulator assembly may need replacing.
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:12 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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If it is the alternator what are your thoughts about rebuilding the alternator???( I mean taking it to a shop.) Are bmw alternators different from domestic ones?? Has anyone had it done before?
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 1984CJP View Post
If it is the alternator what are your thoughts about rebuilding the alternator???( I mean taking it to a shop.) Are bmw alternators different from domestic ones?? Has anyone had it done before?
Rebuilding the alternator consists of replacing the Regulator Pack/Brushes at the rear of the alternator, cleaning the slip rings inside the alternator and replacing bearings if worn. They are usually Bosh or Lucas alternators...check which one you have and look for the Agents in your area...Bosch or Lucas....talk to them about re-building the alternator or else buy the Regulator Pack from them and change it yourself.....this is the most likely problem and you have an old vehicle....who knows is this has been replaced before. The regulator pack will have Bosch/Lucas on it and the correct part number.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:11 PM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Thanks for all the help so far everybody. Got the alternator tested at oreilys and it tested good. Now do those test check the voltage regulator??? Should I take it to a rebuild shop and have them test it instead??
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2013, 05:22 PM
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how to check voltage regulator, measure battery voltage while car is running. youve done it, orielys did it. you said it was 13.8 earlier, ok but not ideal, only .4v off.

but it still sounds like your alternator is heading south. just because its throwing the volts doesnt mean its producing the amps needed hence blowing the 20a fuse for the blower and dimming lights under load. i would just buy a new/refurbed alternator maybe even getting a higher amp output.
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:51 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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I know your suppose to stick to one section of the car rule out all possible problems then move on. I just have a really strong feeling its fuel related. I'ts running kinda like the fuel delivery is intermittent or weak. With the car idling and gas pedal held steady, the rpms go up then kinda bogs and goes down. It repeats this till car dies. It does the same thing while driving. I've always smelled a little fuel but now the smell is much stronger. Any ideas?????
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:58 AM
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I hate to be the guy who says I told you so ,but this is kinda what I meant . It's sometimes really hard to see the forest for the trees when your trying to fix something your not accustom to working on.If your not going to take it to a pro I suggest you step back and try and figure it out from the beginning .Don't worry about want it's doing now worry about how it all started and try and follow the path of fixes and results till you get to where you are .Maybe you overlooked something or just didn't think it mattered at the time when you were working on it.
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:34 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Don't worry about want it's doing now worry about how it all started and try and follow the path of fixes and results till you get to where you are .Maybe you overlooked something or just didn't think it mattered at the time when you were working on it.
So maybe that slight fuel smell way back when was actually something going bad. Never thought anything because cars running a little rich. I think a fuel pressure test should be my next step. I'm gonna do some hard thinking before anything else gets done though.( Think of anything I might have missed)
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:56 AM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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Took plug wires off and noticed ends were slightly miss-shapen and black. I think its oil. Went for plug that goes to ignition coil and tip of ignition coil cracked off into the plug(very easily). So I guess I'll start by getting wires and an ignition coil.
I'm guessing that if these 2 things are faulty they could be causing alot of my issues?? Got a few more hours to work on it. I'll let u know how the plugs and such look. By the way, anyone know were to get wires and coil cheap??
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Old 12-21-2013, 01:51 PM
1984CJP 1984CJP is offline
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The parts are finally in. I got new ignition coil (to replace cracked 1.) I also got plugs and wires. I'll go throw them on real quick and let you guys know. Cross your fingers, pray to god.
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Old 12-21-2013, 06:27 PM
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well?
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:58 PM
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real quick wasnt real quick
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