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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 03-30-2014, 10:05 AM
Freudeam Fahren Freudeam Fahren is offline
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Location: Livermore, CA
 
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
I think a non VA Nos conversion may be necessary to get a well-run Turbo set up. I say this because for the kind of flow the would be condusive to a Turbo set up, one would need camshafts of quite high duration and if you get high duration cams (more aggressive than M3) you might get piston to valve contact once the vanos switches to high. Again it depends on how hot you wanna run your cams, this would also apply to an N/A tune with like over 27~ of duration. But I also don't know all that much about turboing.

Also with a Turbo, an oil cooler set up south definetly be something you would want.. You may also have to relocate your coolant exp tank to make room for the turbine. Turbo intake manifold would also be needed. TRM Tuning has a lot of turboing parts I'd look em up
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  #77  
Old 03-30-2014, 10:11 AM
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I see thank you for the info and input. What is required to convert to non vanos?
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  #78  
Old 03-30-2014, 10:22 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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There is no need for a non-vanos engine to do a reliable turbo build. I don't know how people got that in their head. Also, I don't think I've ever seen an off-the-shelf turbo kit for these cars which required installing new cams. Basically, I don't think you need to think about cams unless you want some crazy 700hp+ monster...

Also, you can scratch headers off your list, since a turbo setup will require it's own turbo exhaust manifold.
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1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
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For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-30-2014 at 10:23 AM.
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  #79  
Old 03-30-2014, 01:00 PM
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Jakobie1086 Jakobie1086 is offline
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Don't you have an automatic? You want to turbo with an automatic? Priorities man.
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1995 Hellrot Red 318ti - Currently body up full rebuild (3.0L M50)

1992 Black 325i 5 Speed w/ 279k - Parted out
1998 Black 328i 5 Speed Restored w/179k - Sold
1995 Black 318ti MTech 5 Speed w/146k - Sold
1992 White 325i Auto - Lemons race car
1995 Green 318ti 5 speed - OBD1 S52 Race Car
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  #80  
Old 03-30-2014, 01:54 PM
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Mr. Crimson Mr. Crimson is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobie1086 View Post
Don't you have an automatic? You want to turbo with an automatic? Priorities man.
Don't preach to the choir. I just said I want to get a parts list going so I know my expenses, start weighing some options, etc. Surely this mod will come after my five-speed swap next year or so. But thanks for the input
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  #81  
Old 03-30-2014, 03:09 PM
Freudeam Fahren Freudeam Fahren is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
There is no need for a non-vanos engine to do a reliable turbo build. I don't know how people got that in their head. Also, I don't think I've ever seen an off-the-shelf turbo kit for these cars which required installing new cams. Basically, I don't think you need to think about cams unless you want some crazy 700hp+ monster...

Also, you can scratch headers off your list, since a turbo setup will require it's own turbo exhaust manifold.
Again I said it depends on how hot your cams are. I assume most people who go for a Turbo setup would like to drop in some good cams to get the most out of it. I have not researched into turboeing very much, just a thought, because I know its a problem with N/A setups that are pushing really hot cams and creeping over that 250 wheel
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  #82  
Old 03-30-2014, 05:52 PM
Texan Engineer Texan Engineer is offline
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Not to rain on the parade, but I honestly think a turbo shouldn't be necessary. I've got a 230hp N52, and it's not like I'm wanting for that much more power - already have enough to get into plenty of trouble. I know you're trying to sort out a parts list (I'm that kind of guy too, I've got every single mod planned out for my 1 even though it's going to span the next 10 years maybe haha), but imho a turbo would be so low on the list as to the point of being not on it at all.

Obviously if you can't tell, I'm part of the N/A motor crowd, and I think one of the best things going for BMW's of most vintages is that wonderful N/A straight six. Also, a turbo and reliable generally don't go in the same sentence, especially not an aftermarket turbo. I say nix the turbo. Suspension, general body/interior restoration, and that MT conversion should take up so much time and money to keep you busy for quite a while.
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  #83  
Old 03-30-2014, 06:16 PM
Freudeam Fahren Freudeam Fahren is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan Engineer View Post
Not to rain on the parade, but I honestly think a turbo shouldn't be necessary. I've got a 230hp N52, and it's not like I'm wanting for that much more power - already have enough to get into plenty of trouble. I know you're trying to sort out a parts list (I'm that kind of guy too, I've got every single mod planned out for my 1 even though it's going to span the next 10 years maybe haha), but imho a turbo would be so low on the list as to the point of being not on it at all.

Obviously if you can't tell, I'm part of the N/A motor crowd, and I think one of the best things going for BMW's of most vintages is that wonderful N/A straight six. Also, a turbo and reliable generally don't go in the same sentence, especially not an aftermarket turbo. I say nix the turbo. Suspension, general body/interior restoration, and that MT conversion should take up so much time and money to keep you busy for quite a while.
Haha I'm with this guy, N/A is the BMW way! And honestly even a good bit of factory turbo cars have reliability issues, skylines, rx-7s, evo's, and early 335i's all fall under that umbrella with oil issues on pretty much all of the, and gasket/sealing issues on a couple, and of course cooling problems with the early 335,'s (compounded with oil issues). In reality you pro ly can't even drive the 190hp m52 for all its worth, so take that 6k you were going to spend on your Turbo, and spend it on taking your car to the track. I promise it'll be the best money you ever spent on your BMW!
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  #84  
Old 03-30-2014, 06:53 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freudeam Fahren View Post
I know its a problem with N/A setups that are pushing really hot cams and creeping over that 250 wheel
Huh? You can make 400whp+ with stock cams all day long. Probably over 500whp. Cams aren't really a factor for 95% of people who turbo an E36.
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  #85  
Old 03-30-2014, 07:11 PM
Freudeam Fahren Freudeam Fahren is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Huh? You can make 400whp+ with stock cams all day long. Probably over 500whp. Cams aren't really a factor for 95% of people who turbo an E36.
Yeah the 250 hp thing I said was a bout N/A tuning, as In guys who N/A tune to get over 250 hp and have to use cams that are too hot for vanos actuation (aka already high profile in the "low" position and with vanos would cause enough overlap for kaboom). And I see, I was not aware that cams were not a worry of turbo guys, from what I know, and again I am not a turbo guy, flow increasing modifications have great benefit to turbo applications and turbos love high overlap cam durations. Anyways... track time>turbo. In fact track time>N/A tuning! But you know, whatever floats your boat OP. Just saying, e36's aint meant to be dragsters, give it too much screw(used in lew of the F word) and you might crack a subframe without reinforcements. It'd be better/cheaper for you to get a straightline car and build that up if your just power hungry. A BMW is meant for a greater purpose, road racing. But perhaps I am romantic
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  #86  
Old 03-30-2014, 07:47 PM
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Mr. Crimson Mr. Crimson is online now
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Indeed I already have a suspension build waiting to be ordered and installed. The next big thing after that is the tranny swap. So I'll focus on one project at a time.

Speaking of, here's the suspension list.

==================================
Koni STR.T "Orange" Kit (with H&R Springs) 530
OR
Raceland Coilovers 370

TMS Strut/Shock Mount Kit 220
Adjustable Camber Arms (Rear) 120
Adjustable Camber Plates (Front) 170

"Better" Shocks/Struts setup 1,060
"Cheaper" Coilover setup 880

EXTRAS but necessary for complete build
Strut Bar 130 (solid one-piece)
FCABs (Centered Solid Rubber) 50
RTABs (OEM Rubber) 50
RTAB Limiter kit 90
330
Tires 400
Alignment 60

Anything you guys would add to the list or other suggestions?
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Last edited by Mr. Crimson; 03-30-2014 at 07:49 PM.
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  #87  
Old 03-30-2014, 07:54 PM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Stick with the Koni.

Replace the TMS RSMs and go with the AST ones. They are a lot more gooder.

Forgo the strut bar for an under-chassis brace. You will notice a better handling response versus the strut bar. Ask me how I know.

Best word of advice I can give you is to never go cheap on shocks and brakes. Go reasonable, but never cheap. Function > form. Always. It's your life.
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  #88  
Old 03-30-2014, 08:40 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Do you have plans for taking your car to the track or auto-x? If so, you're going to want to rethink your shock/strut ideas.
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  #89  
Old 03-31-2014, 06:09 AM
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Mr. Crimson Mr. Crimson is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Do you have plans for taking your car to the track or auto-x? If so, you're going to want to rethink your shock/strut ideas.
I had planned on getting it to a track a few times just for farts and giggles but nothing competitive.
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  #90  
Old 03-31-2014, 08:07 AM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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Here is a thought since we are all concerned about cams... Just use M3 cams! More aggressive, and then you know a piston won't hit a valve.
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  #91  
Old 03-31-2014, 09:33 AM
Freudeam Fahren Freudeam Fahren is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Crimson View Post
I had planned on getting it to a track a few times just for farts and giggles but nothing competitive.
Yeah it aint about being competitive, its about surviving. A track day is pretty rough on a car and you want to use quality components. Honestly though, as far as safety goes, it depends on the track. NOLA Motorsports which is the semi-local track (1hour away) that I've been on has so much flat dry grass run off, and like no tire walls so its probably safer than driving on the street (since more people know what they're doing and there is nothing to crash into). Circuit Grand Bayou(the other local one) the other local one, has deep swampy run-off with roll-over issues and is very tight/technical so more screw up points. Either way you don't want your DD to collapse while its their. That being said I've gone on the track with bad shock mounts, bad strut mounts, etc. before and just made sure to replace it right after
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  #92  
Old 03-31-2014, 11:14 AM
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Mr. Crimson Mr. Crimson is online now
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Before I even think about taking it to a track, the car will have all new wear items (bushings, end links) including new mounts and reinforcements, so I'm not worried about that. That's not for a couple years though
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  #93  
Old 03-31-2014, 02:34 PM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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Are helmets required in autocross?
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  #94  
Old 03-31-2014, 02:41 PM
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Engel12626 Engel12626 is offline
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Originally Posted by dwonda View Post
Are helmets required in autocross?
I think so I had to wear one while riding along in a buddy's rx7
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  #95  
Old 03-31-2014, 03:08 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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Plenty of 1000whp M50 based engines out there with stock (S50 S52) cams.
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  #96  
Old 03-31-2014, 04:08 PM
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Mr. Crimson Mr. Crimson is online now
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Whoa whoa haha I'm not that crazy. I might go through with a project like that when I've got a house, garage, funds, resources, and skill to do so.




Which is like 20 years from now
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  #97  
Old 04-08-2014, 08:28 AM
WheelsBMW WheelsBMW is offline
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Nice Bimmer!!!
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  #98  
Old 04-13-2014, 01:51 PM
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Mr. Crimson Mr. Crimson is online now
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Originally Posted by WheelsBMW View Post
Nice Bimmer!!!
Thanks man! It's coming along nicely.

Unfortunately, just got a pretty nasty crack in my windshield. It's the original windshield with the BMW stickers in corners. And it's so old, that the 'tint' that runs along the top is all yellow and faded like crazy. So replacing it means losing the factory BMW stickers but will be a nice facelift with the new black shade strip.

So,


A few things here. First off, BAM!!


Before & After




A couple complications here. Installation was pretty straightforward. That however was not the problem. Right now, just my regular driving lights work. Yes I bought 4 new bulbs and installed them. Funny thing is, the fogs did work at first, and just the driver side high beam worked. After switching some bulbs around to troubleshoot why that one high beam wasn't working, something I did killed the fogs and both highs. Yes, we trouble-shot the **** out of everything. Replaced every fuse having to do with the front lights, reversed the wiring in a few spots on the new headlight, swapped bulbs, triple checked everything. Still no dice

BUT they are in, look incredibly sexy, and are operating legally so I'm content for now. On the bright side I'm planning on removing my fogs anyway. If anyone would like to try and troubleshoot this for me, thanks in advance but I'm not expecting anyone to figure it out for me.


TWO: Remember this??
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
You've got tires that are too large in diameter. The design tire diameter for the E36 is 24.7" to 24.9" which is what you get with the 225/50 x 16 or the 205/60 x 15 that are the OEM sizes. Your 225/60 x 16 tires are 26.6" in diameter which moves the inner shoulder of the tire closer to the body when you're at full lock. That's why you have the severe rub. . .
Yeah so I'm dumb Turns out the tires I have ARE 225/50x16 and not 225/60 like I had thought. Whether I typo'd it the first time or forgot inbetween looking at my tires and asking that question, beats me Also I figured out I have $200/wheel max performance summer tires but I didn't notice until today how in BAD of shape they are. I pretty much need tires ASAP.

So, the problem still stands. I have the correct size tire, but it still rubs like no one's business. (as seen here)

I need an even smaller tire? Like 225x45 or 40? And I'm guessing I can't lower the car until this gets figured out.

Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for the input
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  #99  
Old 04-13-2014, 01:56 PM
Freudeam Fahren Freudeam Fahren is offline
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dude there you go, nice euro's, the projectors always look sooo good on these lol
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  #100  
Old 04-13-2014, 04:54 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
Stick with the 225/50s. A 45 or 40 aspect ratio tire will throw off the speedometer. That rub only occurs when you turn full -lock. Does it rub on the other side? I'll bet not. You need the alignment corrected if it's rubbing on one side and not on the other. You're getting more turn-in on one side that the other. They SHOULD be equal, and neither side will rub.

As has been noted previously, the 225/60/16 was a stock tire size for the E36 M3. There's no reason they shouldn't work on your regular E36.
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