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F30 / F31 / F32 / F33 (2012 - current)
The sixth generation 3 series, chassis code F30. 2013 model year 328i and 335i sedans now in production. Read the F30 frequently asked question thread for all your basic question and dive into all the details in the ultimate F30 information thread.

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  #76  
Old 01-08-2014, 04:41 PM
ScottFM ScottFM is offline
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As I said before my battery issue is no more. With the warmer weather (zero degrees F, -17C) and a couple of longer runs with the car the battery errors went away. With temps today at 10F (-12C) I finally got around to checking the tire pressure. The last check of that pressure was late November when the temps were in the 40sF (4.5C). Normal pressure is 32psi, today all four tires were at 20psi after a one hour drive. So I topped them off and reset the TPM.
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  #77  
Old 01-09-2014, 04:10 AM
Road&MTN_Biker Road&MTN_Biker is offline
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I live a bit west of Ann Arbor, Michigan and took delivery of a 428iX on 12/31. For the last several days temps have ranged from to 17 below zero to 10 above. Even though I had previously charged the battery, the charge battery message would come and MMI shut down almost immediately whenever the temp was below ~ 5 F after engine shut down if I stayed in the car with the ignition on. This required completion of the new typical car personal settings with a battery charger attached, or idle the engine.

I also experienced the all tires low warning and discovered that the front tires were at 22 lbs and the rear at 28. So even including calculations for low air pressure and the temp, the dealer had delivered the car with tire pressures that were very low. My god, it was ~ 10 F when they delivered the car... so they did not check the tires before delivery. We had a warming spell yesterday, with a high of 15 and had no problems. And I must say I am really impressed with the power of the heated seats and steering wheel. They get hot fast, even at -15. Best I have ever experienced. The all-season tires also have impressive traction and saved my butt on some serious ice and snow.

Last edited by Road&MTN_Biker; 01-09-2014 at 10:09 AM.
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  #78  
Old 01-09-2014, 05:10 AM
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blue boy blue boy is offline
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congrats on the ride,sorry about the low tires and low battery,, dealers should charge the batt''''before delivery.
its hard to find GOOD HELP I RECKON.
i remember my CPO was the most UN -CERTIFIED CAR EVER,, i had several issues,, visual issues galore, wheels highly over torqued, dirty inside, Advisors's that lied ,,, on and on.

having said that 'i'm one happy BMW owner'.
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Last edited by blue boy; 01-09-2014 at 05:11 AM.
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  #79  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:29 PM
bmwesq bmwesq is offline
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Wife's 335 gave another battery warning today. Whatever. I must say that I had a chance to drive her car the other day after we got over 12'' of snow. The car performed incredible well. It was very comparable to our prior Audi Q5 Quatro. It was very odd to have a faster car perform so well in the snow. Vrooooom Vrooooom
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  #80  
Old 01-11-2014, 10:32 AM
Barredbard Barredbard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
You have runflats, they don't visibly display low pressure the same as non-runflats.
Oh, dear me. I didn't know that. My visceral hatred of run flats + no spare is attaining lofty heights. I did measure my air pressure today and my tires were all at about 45 psi. That is, assuming I was doing it right with my portable three-in-one jumpstarter. I don't know that I need to top it off, since the maximum psi from reading the info on the tires is 51 psi.
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  #81  
Old 01-11-2014, 10:39 AM
Barredbard Barredbard is offline
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Originally Posted by gkr778 View Post
The 12V power point located forward of the shifter in my F30 appears to be "always on" rather than "key/ignition on". I used a portable tire inflator that plugs in to the 12V socket a few days ago, and it operated without having to activate the car's ignition.

Incidentally, your 2013 Honda Accord is among the cars that use a new generation of wheel sensor free indirect TPMS that comply with FMVSS No. 138. While they don't make the regulation any less silly, I hope that such indirect systems become more common in vehicles from other automakers. Currently, Volkswagen/Audi, Honda, and Mazda use them.
Thank you for the info on the 12V socket. I was aware that my Honda had a different TPMS feature than BMW, but the technical details made my head spin. The weather is now a bit more hospitable, and I checked my tires. They were all in the 45 psi range, whereas - and keep in mind I am a novice at these things - the maximum psi that I can decipher by reading the infor on the tires is 51 psi. At this point, I am not sure if I should top it off. Been doing some reading, and conventional wisdom is that it is better to have a little less air than to go over the recommended maximum psi.
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  #82  
Old 01-11-2014, 10:39 AM
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Lost Horizon Lost Horizon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barredbard View Post
Oh, dear me. I didn't know that. My visceral hatred of run flats + no spare is attaining lofty heights. I did measure my air pressure today and my tires were all at about 45 psi. That is, assuming I was doing it right with my portable three-in-one jumpstarter. I don't know that I need to top it off, since the maximum psi from reading the info on the tires is 51 psi.
Sounds high... unless you are constantly travelling over 100 mph.. The recommended pressures are on the driver's door sill for whatever tire setup you have.. plus in the manual.. At those pressures, it must be like driving a hay wagon.
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  #83  
Old 01-11-2014, 10:49 AM
Barredbard Barredbard is offline
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Originally Posted by Dippydo View Post
Mark and Barred, of course you hold BMW accountable for the warranty aspect but to assume BMW is crap because a couple of you guys are having issues is not fair as well. As I pointed out NONE of you having an issue have performed a load test on the battery and as the other member pointed out, lead acid batteries SUCK in these frigid temperatures. I can assure you other car makers are having this issue as well. This is the busiest season for tow trucks and not just for BMW cars. My mom just picked up a C300 two weeks ago and in Austin texas of all places not that cold, she came out to a dead battery Monday. You cannot have 0% defective rate on any product, I don't care what it is. Water for crying out loud is not always the same. Motorola was the best at QC and they never reached 0%. There are many of us that have no issues at all. I live in Minnesota and my car parked outside all day at work with -50F windchill and the temp was -22-24 and no issues here and it has been below zero since the beginning of December! That is my point.
I would bet you any amount of money the rate of people complaining about a low battery/dead battery in their 2012+ F30 is less than 1%. I would peg it below .10% otherwise we would have more on the boards complaining about the light. From a glance there is less than 5 having this issue out of how many bloggers? Sure everyone is free to make a mountain out of a molehill.
Dippy,

I never contended that BMW is crap; my 335 xdrive is a beautiful car to drive in moderate conditions. But I live in Michigan and cannot always count on hospitable climes. I was just dismayed that the car appeared to be less reliable in the winter than all of my past vehicles, despite costing twice more. I work in an industry that does not forgive tardiness, and reliability is the feature I prize the most in any vehicle. But if you read my prior post, you will find that I have cooled after my initial reaction.

My sensors led me to believe that the my car would either not start on one fine day, or that I would find all 4 tires flat imminently. Neither of those things happened, and my battery sensors no longer come on, now that we have survived the subzero temperatures of prior days. And so I am chalking down that whole experience to sensitive sensors that mirror my bowel movements. Summarily, I am reminded that sensors warn of dangers that are not neccesarily imminent, and I do not plan to take them as seriously as I did previously.

Last edited by Barredbard; 01-11-2014 at 12:42 PM.
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  #84  
Old 01-11-2014, 11:10 AM
Barredbard Barredbard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Horizon View Post
Sounds high... unless you are constantly travelling over 100 mph.. The recommended pressures are on the driver's door sill for whatever tire setup you have.. plus in the manual.. At those pressures, it must be like driving a hay wagon.
lol @ hay wagon. I am more confused than ever. I checked the driver's door sill as you suggested. "Cold air pressure" was at 32 for the front tires and at 38 for the rear tires. But when I read the inscription on the tires, it says maximum is 350 or 51 psi.
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  #85  
Old 01-11-2014, 11:22 AM
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Lost Horizon Lost Horizon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barredbard View Post
lol @ hay wagon. I am more confused than ever. I checked the driver's door sill as you suggested. "Cold air pressure" was at 32 for the front tires and at 38 for the rear tires. But when I read the inscription on the tires, it says maximum is 350 or 51 psi.
You want the recommended.. the inscription on the tires is (pardon me please) just "Lawyer Speak" so that if you blow the tire up, it's on your dime. Max is the upper limit of the tire structural envelope, not where you shoud be running it for your car. These tires can go on all kinds of vehicles, not just BMW... it's the weasel inscription for the manufacturer.
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  #86  
Old 01-11-2014, 12:11 PM
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chiefneil chiefneil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barredbard View Post
Oh, dear me. I didn't know that. My visceral hatred of run flats + no spare is attaining lofty heights. I did measure my air pressure today and my tires were all at about 45 psi. That is, assuming I was doing it right with my portable three-in-one jumpstarter. I don't know that I need to top it off, since the maximum psi from reading the info on the tires is 51 psi.
I feel like I should apologize. My earlier replies were a bit terse and assumed a basic level of automotive knowledge and the willingness to to perform basic safety/maintenance checks on your own. Here's some more detailed info.

Your runflats (RFT) don't sag when low like regular tires because they need to support the weight of the car without air during emergencies. Because you can't rely on visual indicators, BMW gives you the TPMS system. This is superior to eyeballing the tires, as the Mk. 1 eyeball is not that great and tires vary in how much they sag anyway.

BMWs TPMS warns you when pressure has changed by 5psi. It's a warning for a relative change, not checking for an absolute value. i.e. if you reset your TPMS at 20 psi, the TPMS will think all is well and will only warn at 15psi.

45psi is way, way too high. But I doubt the accuracy of your gauge since it's on a portable jumpstarter. Buy a decent gauge like one of these and check again.
http://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-43...tal+tire+gauge
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-P...=pd_sbs_auto_5

The recommended tire pressure is on the driver's side door jamb. Ignore the pressure range on the tire's sidewall and go by what the doorjamb says. It should be in the range of 32-38, I would guess. The need to add more air during winter (and probably let some out in summer) applies to all tires and is not unique to RFTs.

Finally, driving while very low on RFTs might damage the tire. I would recommend that when the TPMS goes off you check your tires and adjust appropriately, or have the dealer do it if you're not into that type of thing. If you're not familiar with exploding Firestone tires (regular non-RFTs) and Ford Explorers, it's worth a google. Tire safety is tire safety, and has little to do with RFT vs non-RFT.
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  #87  
Old 01-11-2014, 12:37 PM
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minn19 minn19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
I feel like I should apologize. My earlier replies were a bit terse and assumed a basic level of automotive knowledge and the willingness to to perform basic safety/maintenance checks on your own. Here's some more detailed info.

Your runflats (RFT) don't sag when low like regular tires because they need to support the weight of the car without air during emergencies. Because you can't rely on visual indicators, BMW gives you the TPMS system. This is superior to eyeballing the tires, as the Mk. 1 eyeball is not that great and tires vary in how much they sag anyway.

BMWs TPMS warns you when pressure has changed by 5psi. It's a warning for a relative change, not checking for an absolute value. i.e. if you reset your TPMS at 20 psi, the TPMS will think all is well and will only warn at 15psi.

45psi is way, way too high. But I doubt the accuracy of your gauge since it's on a portable jumpstarter. Buy a decent gauge like one of these and check again.
http://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-43...tal+tire+gauge
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-P...=pd_sbs_auto_5

The recommended tire pressure is on the driver's side door jamb. Ignore the pressure range on the tire's sidewall and go by what the doorjamb says. It should be in the range of 32-38, I would guess. The need to add more air during winter (and probably let some out in summer) applies to all tires and is not unique to RFTs.

Finally, driving while very low on RFTs might damage the tire. I would recommend that when the TPMS goes off you check your tires and adjust appropriately, or have the dealer do it if you're not into that type of thing. If you're not familiar with exploding Firestone tires (regular non-RFTs) and Ford Explorers, it's worth a google. Tire safety is tire safety, and has little to do with RFT vs non-RFT.
+1 Sorry if I was a bit harsh myself. I just hate it when people blame the car (or anything else for that matter) for this or that without first checking to see if the car is functioning correctly. I can understand if people took steps to remedy the situation and if it was still throwing warning messages, then I would be pissed. Remember, the owners manual is your friend, it is full of good info that might help alleviate some these issues.
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  #88  
Old 01-11-2014, 01:08 PM
Barredbard Barredbard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
I feel like I should apologize. My earlier replies were a bit terse and assumed a basic level of automotive knowledge and the willingness to to perform basic safety/maintenance checks on your own. Here's some more detailed info.

Your runflats (RFT) don't sag when low like regular tires because they need to support the weight of the car without air during emergencies. Because you can't rely on visual indicators, BMW gives you the TPMS system. This is superior to eyeballing the tires, as the Mk. 1 eyeball is not that great and tires vary in how much they sag anyway.

BMWs TPMS warns you when pressure has changed by 5psi. It's a warning for a relative change, not checking for an absolute value. i.e. if you reset your TPMS at 20 psi, the TPMS will think all is well and will only warn at 15psi.

45psi is way, way too high. But I doubt the accuracy of your gauge since it's on a portable jumpstarter. Buy a decent gauge like one of these and check again.
http://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-43...tal+tire+gauge
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-P...=pd_sbs_auto_5

The recommended tire pressure is on the driver's side door jamb. Ignore the pressure range on the tire's sidewall and go by what the doorjamb says. It should be in the range of 32-38, I would guess. The need to add more air during winter (and probably let some out in summer) applies to all tires and is not unique to RFTs.

Finally, driving while very low on RFTs might damage the tire. I would recommend that when the TPMS goes off you check your tires and adjust appropriately, or have the dealer do it if you're not into that type of thing. If you're not familiar with exploding Firestone tires (regular non-RFTs) and Ford Explorers, it's worth a google. Tire safety is tire safety, and has little to do with RFT vs non-RFT.
Very informative, thank you. And yes, I know next to nothing about cars, and generally rely on the shop for all problems, great and small. Despite being a car enthusiast, I didn't grow up around anyone who knew shyte from shinola about cars - my white collar father included - and I am repeating the same vicious cycle with my deficit of knowledge. Which is one of the reasons why reliability is so important to me. I will order your recommended tire gauge; in the meantime I have purchased a cheap one from Pepboys, and the tires all seem to be at an average of 35 psi. Which would imply - given your explanation - that they were at about 40psi before the sensor went crazy and I reset it. Which in turn leaves me puzzled as to whether to put more air in them, because 40 psi is higher than the numbers on the door sill.

Last edited by Barredbard; 01-11-2014 at 01:11 PM.
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  #89  
Old 01-11-2014, 01:30 PM
Barredbard Barredbard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Horizon View Post
You want the recommended.. the inscription on the tires is (pardon me please) just "Lawyer Speak" so that if you blow the tire up, it's on your dime. Max is the upper limit of the tire structural envelope, not where you shoud be running it for your car. These tires can go on all kinds of vehicles, not just BMW... it's the weasel inscription for the manufacturer.
lol. Gotcha. From you and Chiefneil, I now know to pay more attention to the info on the door sill.
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  #90  
Old 04-07-2014, 02:27 PM
Airbus Driver Airbus Driver is offline
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Just bought '09 CPO Z4 and the service mgr said same thing about a trickle charger.
Batteries drain easy, for whatever engineering reasons. (beyond me)! But he said to save yourself $400-500 and keep
the battery warm if you don't drive it all the time. I leave town every week, and I'll take his advice.
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  #91  
Old 04-07-2014, 10:13 PM
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Dave 20T Dave 20T is offline
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With TPMS, you still should check tire pressure because the warning is supposed to go off when the tire is 20% too low.
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