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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-20-2014, 09:35 AM
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neve1064 neve1064 is offline
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E93 2011 do-it-yourself oil change

I'm thinking of learning how to do oil changes myself. Is it worth it savings wise if I want to change the oil every 5k miles or twice per year? What would I need to do this properly? What oil products are the best to use? How long does it take on average? And what is the conventional way of disposing of used oil?

I'm driving less and less and I've read that short drives can cause engine problems so I thought keeping the oil clean would help thwart future problems. I've decided to keep my 2011 vert e93 and the warranty expires in August. I'm at 42k miles.

Thank you all in advance. Happy driving.

N64
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2014, 09:42 AM
Phil325i Phil325i is offline
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Yes do it! Guide here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4768
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2014, 12:12 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Use oem fluid and filters.

I like to use either getbmwparts.com or ecstuning.com

They have oil change kits, so look for those.

Takes about 30-45 minutes.

You need a jack and JACK STANDS. Don't skip on the stands. Alternatively, you can use those rhino ramp things. I would never trust those though....

You also need a wrench to remove the drain plug. I want to say it's 14mm but I can't remember off the top of my head.

You also need a tool to remove the oil filter cap. A strap wrench works. Or you can buy the tool made to remove the cap.
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  #4  
Old 01-20-2014, 12:46 PM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
You also need a wrench to remove the drain plug. I want to say it's 14mm but I can't remember off the top of my head.
17mm



Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
You also need a tool to remove the oil filter cap. A strap wrench works. Or you can buy the tool made to remove the cap.
I have a cap wrench for this, but before I got the wrench I removed the filter cap by hand. Not the easiest thing, but doable.
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  #5  
Old 01-20-2014, 02:10 PM
Miller335 Miller335 is offline
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There's also a 27mm socket you'll need if you use the correct oil filter removal tool.
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  #6  
Old 01-20-2014, 02:34 PM
roadkillrob roadkillrob is offline
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Once you do it, it takes about 30 minutes - it is actually easier on a BMW than most cars as the filter is up top and super easy!

I like using the OEM parts and fluid - If you are a bmwcca.org member, you can get 20% off at most dealers and the price is the same as Tischer with no shipping costs or waiting.
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  #7  
Old 01-20-2014, 03:03 PM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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I just did it myself today also hehe. Hmm i bought the filter from bmw then i
Bought oil from walmart castrol 5w-30
Synthetic u just need a ramp or jack n the tool u use for the filter Click image for larger version

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  #8  
Old 01-20-2014, 03:05 PM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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Or youtube it so u can see how to do it


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  #9  
Old 01-20-2014, 03:18 PM
jayb328i jayb328i is offline
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The ramps are dangerous, I had a bad experience once--and never again. I had one ramp slide out while driving up it. Lucky I did not do major damage to car.
I would jack up car. My car is too low to get jack under without driving front wheels onto 2 x 9 blocks. ALWAYS use GOOD set of jack stands, NEVER go under the car will only jack.
And I always recommend Mobil 0W40 for the car.
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:21 PM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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Originally Posted by jayb328i View Post
The ramps are dangerous, I had a bad experience once--and never again. I had one ramp slide out while driving up it. Lucky I did not do major damage to car.
I would jack up car. My car is too low to get jack under without driving front wheels onto 2 x 9 blocks. ALWAYS use GOOD set of jack stands, NEVER go under the car will only jack.
And I always recommend Mobil 0W40 for the car.
Lol it really depends what ramp
You're using and just make sure you align it correctly ive been using it
For a while now i used it with my 350z also before i bought the bimmer and it was dropped.

It's a raceramp made for lowered cars Click image for larger version

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  #11  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:28 PM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momukhamo View Post
I just did it myself today also hehe. Hmm i bought the filter from bmw then i
Bought oil from walmart castrol 5w-30
Synthetic u just need a ramp or jack n the tool u use for the filter

New York! Late January! No snow!

Who are you, masked man?
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:30 PM
DozerDan DozerDan is offline
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Really not much to it, I am spoiled and just put mine up on the lift, makes getting under it super easy
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:37 PM
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CALWATERBOY CALWATERBOY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neve1064 View Post
I'm thinking of learning how to do oil changes myself. Is it worth it savings wise if I want to change the oil every 5k miles or twice per year? What would I need to do this properly? What oil products are the best to use? How long does it take on average? And what is the conventional way of disposing of used oil?

I'm driving less and less and I've read that short drives can cause engine problems so I thought keeping the oil clean would help thwart future problems. I've decided to keep my 2011 vert e93 and the warranty expires in August. I'm at 42k miles.

A good start on the road to knowing your ride.

Cheers!


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  #14  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:40 PM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
New York! Late January! No snow!

Who are you, masked man?
Lol it wasnt that cold today though in 40s earlier Click image for larger version

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  #15  
Old 01-20-2014, 07:59 PM
bemwww bemwww is online now
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No one addressed driving the car less really "hurts" the engine? Any truth to this?
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  #16  
Old 01-21-2014, 02:04 AM
jayb328i jayb328i is offline
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No one addressed driving the car less really "hurts" the engine? Any truth to this?
Yes, but it depends. The worse thing for a car is to drive a few miles each day. That activates all the pollutants but the engine does not get hot enough (and long enough) to eliminate them from the various systems--resulting in high build-up and retention in the car.
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  #17  
Old 01-21-2014, 05:52 AM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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No one addressed driving the car less really "hurts" the engine? Any truth to this?
hmm i dont drive my car everyday i have another car for a daily driver... but i make sure i turn the car on and let it run for a lil while..

or if you have a short drive to work just make sure you always give it some time to warm up before you leave...
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  #18  
Old 01-21-2014, 06:27 AM
bemwww bemwww is online now
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What is considered short drive? mine is 7 miles each way.

I let it sit in my garage in phoenix, and warm up for 1-2 minutes. Dont gun it
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:57 AM
Phil325i Phil325i is offline
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Originally Posted by Momukhamo View Post
Bought oil from walmart castrol 5w-30
Have a feeling cheapo Walmart Castrol is not up to BMW spec. Worth checking the label - I think it has to be European produced...
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:06 AM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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What is considered short drive? mine is 7 miles each way
Anything that doesn't get the oil over 200 degrees or so is a short drive. Note: the oil, not the coolant. Even in the summer, it takes a good 10 - 15 miles on the highway for mine to get hot enough to count. Yours is definitely a "short drive".

You want to evaporate contaminants that have condensed into your oil (unburned fuel, water, etc.) and that's not going to happen at 160 degree oil temperatures.


Quote:
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I let it sit in my garage in phoenix, and warm up for 1-2 minutes. Dont gun it
Letting it idle until it comes off high idle before moving is a decent idea, as is staying off the throttle if the engine isn't really warm.

Idling in the driveway for extended periods is not a good idea, especially in colder climates. The engine running at idle speed may be getting the block warm, but there's really not enough going through to get the exhaust system hot. For the first few minutes, you're likely getting a nice film of water along most of the pipes that's going to take a while to burn off.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:14 AM
jayb328i jayb328i is offline
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Originally Posted by Zooks527 View Post
Anything that doesn't get the oil over 200 degrees or so is a short drive. Note: the oil, not the coolant. Even in the summer, it takes a good 10 - 15 miles on the highway for mine to get hot enough to count. Yours is definitely a "short drive".

You want to evaporate contaminants that have condensed into your oil (unburned fuel, water, etc.) and that's not going to happen at 160 degree oil temperatures.




Letting it idle until it comes off high idle before moving is a decent idea, as is staying off the throttle if the engine isn't really warm.

Idling in the driveway for extended periods is not a good idea, especially in colder climates. The engine running at idle speed may be getting the block warm, but there's really not enough going through to get the exhaust system hot. For the first few minutes, you're likely getting a nice film of water along most of the pipes that's going to take a while to burn off.
Good comments--My reading/research and understanding is exactly the same. Anything under 10 to 15 miles (one way) is not good for the car. But who cares--it is not my car.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:35 AM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
Have a feeling cheapo Walmart Castrol is not up to BMW spec. Worth checking the label - I think it has to be European produced...
I did my research if im not mistaken they said thats the closest oil u can get if u dont wana buy it from the dealership. Its the castrol 5w-30 full synthetic high performance. Plus oil cap says castrol but again not sure how many types of castrol oil has. Hmm what would u recommend? I saw something for euro cars high performance forgot what brands n specs.


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Old 01-21-2014, 07:42 AM
Momukhamo Momukhamo is offline
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Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
Have a feeling cheapo Walmart Castrol is not up to BMW spec. Worth checking the label - I think it has to be European produced...
Click image for larger version

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I used this one lol


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Old 01-21-2014, 08:40 AM
swillkill swillkill is offline
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Surprisingly, Oil changes have never been easier ! get this and youll be very happy http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pela-650-Oil...-/200708230698
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:41 AM
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neve1064 neve1064 is offline
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Using a pump to extract oil from the BMW is enticing bit does Das Auto like it?
Seriously though, isn't part of the benefit of draining oil letting gravity take sediment along with the old oil?

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