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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-26-2014, 01:18 PM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
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Location: Ventura CA
 
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Mein Auto: 99 528i MSport Manual
No Start/No fuel at rail

New here but have been reading threads for days since purchasing a 99 528i for my son. Car ran perfectly when we bought it now we are in a no start situation. So far I've replaced fuel pump, crank position sensor, checked all fuses and relays, checked fuel level sensors, verified a recent (within 5 months) OEM fuel filter change. When I check the power to the fuel pump electrical plug it energizes up to 12+ volts for a few seconds then goes back down to zero. I pulled the pump and applied 12 volts to it and it spins up fine. I've also replaced the fuel diverter valve (3/2 valve with regulator) which is a BMW part. I've also checked the fuses under the passenger side cabin air filter. Car is 3/4 full of gas, has oil, cranks strong. Verified no fuel at the rail.

Anything I missed before I take it to the dealer?

All of the things above I learned about and performed with the sole use of this forum…fantastic asset to have.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2014, 01:40 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC_2602 View Post
New here but have been reading threads for days since purchasing a 99 528i for my son. Car ran perfectly when we bought it now we are in a no start situation. So far I've replaced fuel pump, crank position sensor, checked all fuses and relays, checked fuel level sensors, verified a recent (within 5 months) OEM fuel filter change. When I check the power to the fuel pump electrical plug it energizes up to 12+ volts for a few seconds then goes back down to zero. I pulled the pump and applied 12 volts to it and it spins up fine. I've also replaced the fuel diverter valve (3/2 valve with regulator) which is a BMW part. I've also checked the fuses under the passenger side cabin air filter. Car is 3/4 full of gas, has oil, cranks strong. Verified no fuel at the rail.

Anything I missed before I take it to the dealer?

All of the things above I learned about and performed with the sole use of this forum…fantastic asset to have.

Thanks.
Have you tried all the keys that came with the car?
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2014, 02:13 PM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
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Location: Ventura CA
 
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Mein Auto: 99 528i MSport Manual
I only have 1 key.
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2014, 04:15 PM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
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Mein Auto: 99 528i MSport Manual
After reading another thread it appears my EWS and ISN are out of sync. I'm going to have to tow it to a shop to re-sync I guess. At any rate I'm definitely done throwing parts at it.
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2014, 11:08 PM
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mjalloul11 mjalloul11 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1996 528i 1999 MB c240
When you replaced the fuel pump, did you check the connection to the pump from the upper holder. Does the pump work when instaled in tank?
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  #6  
Old 01-27-2014, 05:41 AM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
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No it will not spin up in tank only when out of tank. Voltage gets to connector though.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2014, 07:34 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Give this a try, it will be 60 mile tow...
http://www.yelp.com/biz/south-bay-independent-gardena-2


On the other hand, if you can find another key then it is great. Time to get a spare key.
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  #8  
Old 01-29-2014, 05:49 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the square keys (1) (2) & what the red LED indicates on the old square key (1) & what can go wrong with a key and where to send it for repair (1) (2) (3) (4) & what battery to use in the new style 2000+ BMW E39, E46, E53, E85, etc. diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & youtube videos of diamond key repairs (1) (2) (3) & a square key to diamond key retrofit and transponder swap (1) (2) (3) (4) & diamond key to square key retrofit questions (1) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long that key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & the proper diamond key initializing or programming sequence (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & what to do if your only key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #9  
Old 01-29-2014, 05:00 PM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
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Location: Ventura CA
 
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Mein Auto: 99 528i MSport Manual
Thanks all. Problem resolved. The connector to the fuel pump housing was getting power, the fuel pump powered up when hooked directly to a 12V system….it was the connection between that went bad. Had to replace the entire housing. The good news is during the troubleshooting process I cleaned out an extremely dirty IACV and replaced a nearly cracked in half crank position sensor.

Thanks for the advice!
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  #10  
Old 01-29-2014, 05:49 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC_2602 View Post
Thanks all. Problem resolved. The connector to the fuel pump housing was getting power, the fuel pump powered up when hooked directly to a 12V system….it was the connection between that went bad. Had to replace the entire housing. The good news is during the troubleshooting process I cleaned out an extremely dirty IACV and replaced a nearly cracked in half crank position sensor.

Thanks for the advice!

Hmmmm I thought power to the fuel pump was only "supposed" to last a few seconds when cranking.

And .... if you had a cracked cranshaft position sensor, that definitely would have been a good suspect for no-start.
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  #11  
Old 01-29-2014, 06:41 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
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Crack position sensor lol
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Last edited by Burning2nd; 01-29-2014 at 07:37 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-29-2014, 07:33 PM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
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Location: Ventura CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 99 528i MSport Manual
Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Hmmmm I thought power to the fuel pump was only "supposed" to last a few seconds when cranking.

True--then pump energizes when vehicle is running. When I turned the key to position 2 the voltage ramped up to 12 plus volts then went back down after a few seconds. I took that to mean the connection was good when in fact the power never was making it to the fuel pump.

And .... if you had a cracked cranshaft position sensor, that definitely would have been a good suspect for no-start.
CPS was cracked but the electrodes were still partially intact…making some contact so when it ran it ran. When I pulled the old one out and saw that cracking I assumed that was it. This was a troubleshooting PITA but I guess it could have been worse.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2014, 07:38 PM
USMC_2602 USMC_2602 is offline
Registered User
Location: Ventura CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 99 528i MSport Manual
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the square keys (1) (2) & what the red LED indicates on the old square key (1) & what can go wrong with a key and where to send it for repair (1) (2) (3) (4) & what battery to use in the new style 2000+ BMW E39, E46, E53, E85, etc. diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & youtube videos of diamond key repairs (1) (2) (3) & a square key to diamond key retrofit and transponder swap (1) (2) (3) (4) & diamond key to square key retrofit questions (1) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long that key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & the proper diamond key initializing or programming sequence (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & what to do if your only key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
Thanks! I've actually read that those procedures several times.
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