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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-29-2014, 11:12 AM
renyoj renyoj is offline
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2010 vs 2011 335 Convertible

I'm looking at two CPO 335 Convertibles. One is a 2011 335i Convertible in red with black interior with 33K miles for $31K. The second is a 2010 335i Convertible in grey with red interior with 43K for $30K. The red 2011 drove great, but the carfax shows no maintenance listed. The 2010 grey has impeccable maintenance and the HPFP was replaced in 2011. I love the red, but I'm a little afraid the black seats are going to be scorching in the Houston summer.

Advice would be welcome. I've learned so much from reading the forums, but I'm still undecided.

Last edited by renyoj; 01-29-2014 at 11:16 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2014, 11:47 PM
irianjim irianjim is offline
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If you are looking at CPO's, I would think the BMW dealer would be able to print out any maintenance history that they have on the cars. Have you asked the BMW dealer if they have any maintenance history on the 2011?

On the face of it, the 2011 is only $1k more in cost and has 10k less miles, so appears to be a better deal. It should still be under warranty as well as the earliest it would have been delivered is mid-2010. The 2010 may or may not have warranty left depending on when it was originally delivered to the first owner.

I'd start with the 2011 and get a pre-purchase inspection. If it has any issues an inspection should identify them, and if it is still under warranty, BMW should fix.

My thoughts anyway. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2014, 12:23 AM
msuldo msuldo is offline
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Mein Auto: 355i w/ JB4, OCC, intake
Talking Black seats

Not to worry. I have a black on black 2011 335i convertible with all the goodies plus JB4, intake mods, OCC, etc. Love it, but 3rd car so only have 4500 miles on it ( always stays on battery maintainer).
Black upholstery is somehow treated by BMW so that it remains MUCH cooler than expected in hot sun with top down - MAGIC, and I live in South Louisiana so I know about summer HOT!
Mike
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2014, 12:40 AM
msuldo msuldo is offline
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Mein Auto: 355i w/ JB4, OCC, intake
found the brochure

"Thanks to innovative Sun-Re***64258;ective Technology,
the Dakota Leather-upholstered seats stay up to 20 percent cooler in
direct sunlight than conventional leather".
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2014, 05:54 AM
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DougN DougN is offline
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Which one do you like the looks of better? The 2010 and 2011 models have different headlights and front bumpers, so they do have a different look.
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2014, 06:44 AM
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LarkHouston LarkHouston is offline
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Don't worry about the black interior. For years I said I wouldn't get a black interior because of the Houston heat, but now I have two with black interiors. It has not been an issue for either. Now, I do garage both of them, at home and work, so that may be a factor.
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:00 PM
unrealii unrealii is offline
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2010 has the n54, 2011 has the n55. Read on the differences and see if you prefer one over the other. The 2011 also has life cycle impulse which includes several cosmetic updates.
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  #8  
Old 01-31-2014, 03:17 AM
BabyRed BabyRed is offline
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Mein Auto: 2010 E93 335i Convertible
Do they have comparable options? That may be why the pricing is close, maybe the 2010 has more options. That was important to me when I was on the hunt for my 2010 as it has all options but Nav which I did not want. M Sport, Premium, Cold, Logic 7, Convenience, all were requirements for my search.
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  #9  
Old 01-31-2014, 08:19 AM
unrealii unrealii is offline
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Also for 2010, BMW downgraded their professional radio to the base radio if you did not option the car up to Logic7/HK audio. In 2011, I believe they went back to the professional radio as the base offering. This may be something to consider.
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2014, 08:32 AM
wilt wilt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unrealii View Post
Also for 2010, BMW downgraded their professional radio to the base radio if you did not option the car up to Logic7/HK audio. In 2011, I believe they went back to the professional radio as the base offering. This may be something to consider.
2011 328i has the BMW Professional radio and the HiFi speakers (whereas the prior years' base model speakers are commonly felt to be dissatifying)
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:56 PM
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need4speed need4speed is offline
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I'd go with the 2011, unless your due diligence finds an issue. N4S
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  #12  
Old 01-31-2014, 02:16 PM
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Mark K Mark K is online now
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If you watched TV you'd have learned by now that two is better than one. Even kindergarten kids know that one ...

I'm kidding (and talking about turbos), pick one you like better. Our moderator from Houston might chip in with tips about how to check status of the top - which is multiple times more expensive oops than anything on the engine itself


Good luck!
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  #13  
Old 01-31-2014, 08:17 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark K View Post
If you watched TV you'd have learned by now that two is better than one. Even kindergarten kids know that one ...

I'm kidding (and talking about turbos), pick one you like better. Our moderator from Houston might chip in with tips about how to check status of the top - which is multiple times more expensive oops than anything on the engine itself


Good luck!
I wasn't going to say anything, but now that you mention it, yes - it doesn't matter whether it's an M3 or a 328i, if I were in the market for a used E93, I would really want to have a handle on the status of the top mechanism.

Things I would look for are:

1) Find someplace quiet, then put the top down and then back up. Listen carefully for how quiet it is when the part with the back windscreen meets with the back cowling and how quiet the mating of the main piece is with the front A-Pillar/Windshield cowling. If everything slides into place quietly with a minimum of loud teeth chattering bangs and clunks everything is in good order. Also, the after settled into place whirring should be minimal.

2) Do a test drive early in the morning. If there are a lot of squeaks and rattles when the top is in the up position, then the rubber seals probably need some lubrication. If you have rattles and squeaks when doing a test drive at 70F, that means the seals are really in need of lubrication.

3) You are in the market for a 2010/2011 so the state of the cords that pull the top liner into place isn't really an issue. I believe with the late 2010 models they ironed that issue out.

The good news is that with regular lubrication the top mechanism seems pretty robust. I use mine every chance I get and short of a couple of minor issues handled under warranty have had no issues. My guess is that if the car made it through the warranty period, the top mechanism is probably in pretty good shape short of faithful lubrication of top seals and hinges.
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