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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 04-02-2014, 04:28 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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DSC Hydraulic Unit - ABS issues

Purchased my 2002 745LI with 141k miles in January 2014. I pretty much bought this car mainly for the size of the vehicle. I purchased this car from an older woman who I would say was in her 60's. So I'm pretty sure no work has been done on this car other than the original recalls.

One of many issues is that DSC Hydraulic Unit is Failing. The shop quoted me $2,600 for the part. The shop manager seems very nice. He isn't trying to force repairs on me just simply stating that this is the current problem and the reason for my ABS lights coming off and on.

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience and can provide detailed information on their experience with this type of repair?

Last edited by r1sa.anne; 04-02-2014 at 08:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2014, 06:19 PM
jcharris jcharris is offline
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It could very well be your ABS Module, our cars are known for having that issue. Do a search and I'm sure that you will find companies that you can either have it rebuilt or replaced for a reasonable price.


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  #3  
Old 04-02-2014, 06:37 PM
vichugo vichugo is offline
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Tell us more about your 745. What is the mileage? Do you know where the previous owner got it serviced? If so, you should be able to get the service history.

The DSC/ABS error could point to the unit itself or, if you're lucky, it could just be the result of having an old battery.

Any other problems or errors?
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  #4  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:36 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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Thank you both for your response.

jcharris : I've seen a few posts about other owners having their ABS module rebuilt but I was not sure they had the same "diagnosis" as mine. The only description I have is from the repairs estimate from my Independent BMW shop. I guess my overall main question would be is the ABS module the same as what they are referring to as: "DSC Hydraulic Unit". I guess the only number on the sheet that may refer to a part # is "08760".

vichugo : Purchased this car just recently with a total of 141,000 miles on it. 2002 745LI - I paid $6,300 for the vehicle. Main purpose was to find a car with large enough room for my grandmother with Alzheimer's to be able to get into with ease. Sold my hyundai elantra for the exact amount of $$$ that was needed to pay for this car. -For my needs, the car was a "Good Deal" in my case.

The lady supplied me with receipts from small auto services in the area. A battery from Wal-Mart??? Tires with Discount Tires, and some random shop that installed brakes. So this tells me she never really took care of the car or concerned herself with having it repaired. I contacted the local dealer and the only services that were really done were recall services.

So far current issues based on the diagnosis of the shop (after the replaced the expansion tank & water pump) are:

Power Box Fan Fault
Bank 2 Knock Sensor
Bad Oxygen Sensor at Bank One Pre Cat
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:51 PM
vichugo vichugo is offline
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The reason that I mentioned the battery is that 7-series are known to throw all kinds of error codes if the battery is not in great shape. Many members of this forum have replaced electronic modules that they probably didn't have to, just because they had a sick battery. These cars take a 90 Ah AGM battery. An ordinary lead-acid battery rarely works well enough in these cars. And it must be "registered" to the car so the alternator charges it correctly. A mechanic who works on BMWs can check this for you. It is important that you find a shop that works on a lot of German cars so they have all the right diagnostic equipment.

If the previous owner was only putting on a few miles each day, she probably didn't charge the battery enough. That can be a problem as well. I ended up buying a trickle charger because of this.

If your e-box cooling fan isn't working that's bad - especially if you live in a hot climate. It cools the main computer for the engine (DME).

The sensors you mentioned probable need replacing if the car has 140K. I'd replace all 4 O2 sensors and both knock sensors at the same time.

...but I'd sure be checking the battery first! If your battery isn't good, you may find that some of your problems go away when you get a new battery and register it.

Good luck!
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  #6  
Old 04-03-2014, 10:26 AM
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PRBMW7ser05 PRBMW7ser05 is offline
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Mine just went out about 2 months ago. My mechanic recommended a company in the valley (Los Angeles) that repairs them. Pulled in, 2 hours later, and $190.00, it was fixed. They actually take apart the unit and make the necessary repairs, with a one year warranty. So they can be fixed for a reasonable price.
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  #7  
Old 04-03-2014, 01:28 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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Sorry forgot to mention that the battery was the first problem I had addressed when I purchased the car. I believe the shop replaced it and registered it.

Gathered all the papers and so far the repairs I have made are:

1/22/2014 = Battery - 850CCA - 92-N

2/03/2014 = Engine Oil Leak
- Brake Vacuum Pump-N
- Oil Pressure Sender-N

2/03/2014 = Synthetic Oil Service

3/21/2014 = Valley Pan-N
Intake Manifold Gasket-N
Air Pump Control Valve-N
Air Pump Hose-N
Coolant-N

3/31/2014 = Expansion Tank-N
Expansion Tank Cap-N
Water Pump-N

Last edited by r1sa.anne; 04-03-2014 at 05:59 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-03-2014, 07:33 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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  #9  
Old 04-04-2014, 11:12 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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Guess I need to put the DSC/ABS hydraulic unit issue on hold for now.

Since I've had the Valley Pan repaired on 3/21/2014 ... I am now overheating!
Just last week they suggested I needed a new expansion tank, cap, and water pump. Had them do the repairs and now have driven probably less than 20 miles and still having the overheating problems. Do I bother taking the car back to these guys???? Or go straight to the dealer.

I'm clearly not a mechanical girl so I truly don't understand what is making this car overheat so much. Before the valley pan repair I probably see the low coolant warning maybe 2x. The issue seemed to go away after replacing the old cap on the expansion tank. I don't remember seeing that much coolant coming from the neck of the expansion tank prior to the valley pain repair.
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2014, 12:36 AM
J750 J750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1sa.anne View Post

vichugo : Purchased this car just recently with a total of 141,000 miles on it. 2002 745LI - I paid $6,300 for the vehicle. Main purpose was to find a car with large enough room for my grandmother with Alzheimer's to be able to get into with ease. Sold my hyundai elantra for the exact amount of $$$ that was needed to pay for this car. -For my needs, the car was a "Good Deal" in my case.
Oh, man, this car is VERY expensive to maintain. With an '02 w/ 141,000 miles on it, I think you're in for a very big surprise. Did you do any research before buying it!?
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2014, 03:08 AM
J750 J750 is offline
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Also, if the shop repaired those issues because it was over-heating, then, yes, take it back. You'll want to avoid the dealership as a couple of repairs will exceed the cost of your vehicle. Remember, this was once a $100,000 car.
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  #12  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:17 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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NO ... did ZERO research before buying the car. The stress of just finding a model with a good sized back seat was hard enough. So I didn't think twice when buying the car. I guess I assumed that repairs were going to be needed regardless since I was purchasing a 12 year old car. Getting repairs done is somewhat fine. I understand the car is not getting younger. But going from "NOT OVERHEATING" to now "OVERHEATING" after one repair is done I find a bit confusing.

I know it wasn't having these "Overheating" problems until they did the valley pan work. & I mentioned that to the manager last time & his response was that because they fixed one leak it caused the pressure to build until the pressure reached another leak. But now they've fixed the water pump, expansion tank, and valley pan. So why is there so much pressure building up & releasing from the expansion tank cap.

Called today & the manager seemed shocked that it's overheating because he claims "we test drove it for a long time" and had no overheating. Even if the valley pan was leaking before wouldn't I have had overheating problems in the beginning? Not after the repair.... this is crazy
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2014, 12:18 PM
vichugo vichugo is offline
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I'd take it back to the mechanic for sure. They shouldn't charge you to find out what's wrong. Get them to write down the error codes so you can post them on the forum.

What message did you get to know that the car is overheating? What did it say exactly?

Has any coolant leaked out on your garage floor? If not, and you're lucky, maybe it is just some air in the system. Fill the coolant level up to the "max" setting in the expansion tank. You can use water for this, just make sure it is de-ionized water for radiators (not tap water). Then turn your heater temperature controls to max and the heater fans to low and take a short drive. That might purge the air out.

I'd also have the electronic control box fan replaced since you had an error code pointing to it.
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  #14  
Old 04-09-2014, 09:42 PM
r1sa.anne r1sa.anne is online now
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Ever since the Valley pan repair the messages have always been the first yellow message that states the engine temperature is high drive moderately. Then the final message that the engine is overheated and to stop carefully.

The first time after the Valley Pan repair we drove at night here in AZ, city driving of speeds around 45 from one stop light to the next. We drove maybe a total of 5 miles before the first yellow message. When I returned to the shop that's when they said I needed a new Expansion Tank and Water Pump.

Again after those repairs I had the same messages, this time after driving at night, city driving for 5 miles than maybe 2-5 miles on the HWY for speeds of around 65 - 70. Returned the car to the Shop this past Tuesday & they "replaced coolant and fully burped the system then test drove for 15 mile and let idle for an hour". No overheating. Picked up the car yesterday evening. Drove city driving for 15 miles UPON leaving the shop and had no problems...

Drove today a total of 6 or 7 miles city driving. Then this evening another 10 miles city driving. I then decided to attempt the highway for 6 miles using cruise at 70mph. Once I reached the exit and stop light I ended up idling for about 5 minutes then received one yellow warning that the engine temperature is high. Then not a minute later received the red "Engine Overheated - Stop CAREFULLY" warning. I was pretty lucky that the Repair shop was only about a mile from my position and stopped and parked the car there...it now sits until the morning when I get to make a now 3rd appearance just for overheating...

Like I said had ZERO OVERHEATING before the Valley Pan repairs. This seems kinda crazy to me.

I also love how my thread went from ABS/DSC Hydraulic Unit issues to Coolant System/Overheating problems!!!

Last edited by r1sa.anne; 04-09-2014 at 10:02 PM.
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  #15  
Old 07-24-2014, 12:17 AM
dhunt dhunt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRBMW7ser05 View Post
Mine just went out about 2 months ago. My mechanic recommended a company in the valley (Los Angeles) that repairs them. Pulled in, 2 hours later, and $190.00, it was fixed. They actually take apart the unit and make the necessary repairs, with a one year warranty. So they can be fixed for a reasonable price.
Having the same problem. I'm in LA and would appreciate it if you could refer me to that Valley repair shop.
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  #16  
Old 07-24-2014, 12:43 AM
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PRBMW7ser05 PRBMW7ser05 is offline
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dhunt, Just getting off work. Card is at the house. I'll post info tomorrow for you.
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2014, 11:03 AM
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PRBMW7ser05 PRBMW7ser05 is offline
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dhunt, requested info and if anybody else has this problem:

Module Repair Pro
5911 Lemona Ave.
Van Nuys, CA, 91411
818 235-1095 / 818 429-4889 Gino Nabedrlk
www.modulerepairpro.com

These guys are very professional and knowledgeable. I pulled in and went down the street and had lunch. 2 hours later, I was done. All good. Cost was about $190.00.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2014, 02:07 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I do not know if your car has a electric cooling fan for the radiator, or not. If you have the electric cooling fan, it could be failing. The fan has 4 speeds, based on temp. Once the fan gets warm, the additional speeds will not work. as long as you dive the car on the highway, air blowing thru the radiator will keep the engine cool. Once you do stop & starts in the city, it will run hot!

Since your DME cooling fan has stopped working, once the DME gets hot, it will start shutting down modules to a fail safe mode. If your DME gets damaged due to heat, you are looking at a very expensive repair. Owning a BMW can become very expensive, very fast. It sounds like you might need to get another shops opinion?

Good Luck!
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2014, 05:26 PM
stuartjohn24 stuartjohn24 is offline
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Sounds like your thermostat is getting jammed and not allowing the coolant to circulate to the radiator, feel the radiator hoses top and bottom when the car begins to overheat again. they will both be hot if the thermostat is opening properly. Could explain the intermittent overheating.

I understand pre-facelift E65's have a viscous fan and an electric fan, I believe the electric fan is there to assist the air conditioning when stationary or at low speeds, it may be used to aid cooling in extreme cases. My fan went out for 18 months, I had no overheating issues, air con would only blow cold when at speed because the front fan was not working. Luckily managed to pick up a used fan (but manufactured in 2008) for 65.

Stuart
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2014, 06:48 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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What was the outcome of the overheating? My wife has a 2004 745 I with 143,000 miles. The other day radiator hose blew. I would recommend any car over 10 years old replace the 4 major hoses to the radiator and water pump. I got 3 hoses for $150.00 which included a genuine bmw factory hose # 1 on real oem.com from EEuroparts.com. They are on eBay or you can call them at 18004679769. I order the hoses yesterday and will see if they arrive today. They are based in CT. And I live in MA
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  #21  
Old 11-21-2014, 04:44 PM
fratan fratan is offline
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Just to give you an update on eeuroparts.com. The parts arrived at noon and I was able to get my radiator and hoses done on my 2006 750i. The cost to replace the radiator and 4 hoses was $950 with a decent oem radiator, the main upper hose was factory bmw and the othe 3 were rein. I also replaced my alternator, only got 2 1/2 years on my last one. This time I bought a factory alternator. We'll see how long this one lasts. The cost of alternator was $ 750 and $280 to install.$2000 bucks but well worth it.
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  #22  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:42 PM
srm51475 srm51475 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRBMW7ser05 View Post
dhunt, requested info and if anybody else has this problem:

Module Repair Pro
5911 Lemona Ave.
Van Nuys, CA, 91411
818 235-1095 / 818 429-4889 Gino Nabedrlk
www.modulerepairpro.com

These guys are very professional and knowledgeable. I pulled in and went down the street and had lunch. 2 hours later, I was done. All good. Cost was about $190.00.
Myairbags.com. $139 with overnight shipping. I had the trifecta of lights also and sent it in for repair. it's been about a month and no problems. The ABS module removal was super easy.
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  #23  
Old 12-09-2014, 10:54 AM
crazyrobbery crazyrobbery is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srm51475 View Post
Myairbags.com. $139 with overnight shipping. I had the trifecta of lights also and sent it in for repair. it's been about a month and no problems. The ABS module removal was super easy.
When you mention Trifecta of lights I am curious if you can provide more info. Just this morning during heavy rain and ice conditions after an hour drive my dash lit up like a Christmas tree with the following

-traction control
-abs light
-parking brake
-brake/drive malf. drive moderately

-flat tire monitor unavailable.

This is my first time seeing these lights. My batter any alternator both have been replaced this year. I am thinking it could be the abs module.

Any info or insight is much appreciated
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2014, 09:32 AM
srm51475 srm51475 is offline
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By trifecta I mean mine were ABS, traction control and parking brake fault. ABS module repair fixed these for me. Relatively cheap and very simply DIY.

Are your battery and alternator in good working order? If not, this could possibly cause your problem. Search this topic. There are several threads that address this issue with different possible causes and solutions. For some it's the battery or alternator, could also be steering angle sensor or wheel speed sensor.
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