Hi all,
I finally mustered the courage to tackle this job this wk end and completed it successfully.
I actually bought the new fuel filter many months ago.. but was alway uncertain about the procedure to bleed the fuel system of air. I didnt want to risk running the High Pressure Fuel Pump dry and causing premature wear to it or worst damaging it.
I have heard many conflicting ways of going about it. Many say to just simply switch the ignition on (by key in, pressing the stop/start button without pressing brake) and it will activate the electric lift pump in the fuel tank and self prime/bleed. I was quite unconvinced by this method as when i normally do this, i do not hear the fuel pump or anything whir or run at all. its all silent.. on my car any ways. In fact, after doing the bleeding procedure the correct way, it confirmed to me that i never actually heard the fuel pump running doing the above mentioned method. As the electric fuel pump actually makes a very distinct whiring sound.
so i held off and invested in time to research and invested in the software itself plus the cable. It took me a while to actually get the software (DIS v57) up and running and actually become familiar with it enough to be confident in using it.
Finally with all the right parts and all the right working software, i set about changing the diesel fuel filter. during my research, i never got a straight answer or any real specific detailed information/instruction as to how to use DIS to bleed the fuel system (many sites just merely mentions "to use DIS to bleed system" without any further details. I took the risk and did it myself with success so hence here i want to share it with you all..
I dont have any pics this time round, as i didnt know what to expect and was just very anxious to get the thing done. stoping to take happy snaps was the last thing on my mind. but the nx time i change it, promise to have some pics. So apologies for no pics, and please bear with me as i try my best to describe it using plain old english.
***If you already know how to physcally change the filter itself and want to skip me rambling on about how to do it and just want to know how to bleed using software then skip to step 6 below.
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Bimmerfest take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
To change the fuel filter u will need the following:
8mm socket
10mm socket
needle nose pliers
flat head screw drivers
DIS v57 diagnostic software plus cable plus laptop to run it all on
new diesel fuel filter
new hose clamp
catch pan
rags
1) u can choose to jack up the vehicle, however my x5 had pretty good ground clearances and im not the biggest bloke in town so i didnt have to jack up my vehicle. please use jack stands and common sense when jacking vehicle.
2) The fuel filter is located on the passenger side (my car is a Right Hand Drive) towards the rear door underneath the vehicle. there are two large plastic covers that needs to be removed to gain access to the fuel filter. u have a foward large plastic cover and a rear large plastic cover, you will need to undo the retaining bolts, they are a combination of 8 and 10mm. Also along the bottom of the side step railing plastic that meets the large plastic panels underneath, there are retaining clips that are just pushed into place. use ur needle nose pliers to grab at them and just pull them directly down. once all the bolts and clips are removed, remove the foward and rear plastic covers. u should now see ur fuel filter.
* i actually spent more time mucking around with the removal and installation of the plastic covers than i did actually swapping out the fuel filter.
** i apologise for the lack of photos.
3) now u can see the fuel filter, it is held in place by two brackets with 2 x 10mm bolts. remove these and remove the brackets completely. the fuel filter should be free to move around slightly now. it will only be held on by the pipe on one end and the inlet/fuel heater assembly on the rear of the filter. to remove the inlet/pre heater assembly from the filter there will be a metal retaining clip. use ur flat head screwdriver to pry it off by pulling it down. grab the filter with one hand and the assembly with the other. give it a wiggle and good pull away from filter, it will come off.. abit of diesel will pour out, at this stage have ur drain pan handy. To remove the other hose from the outlet of the filter, it is fitted with factory one use only clamps. use a combination of small flat head screw driver and needle nose pliers to pry this off. it will be destroy to remove.. doesnt matter as we will be replacing this with a hose clamp anyways. If ur reading this forum, it means u are a DIY'er, therefore i have faith in you that u can and will figure a way to pry that fatory clamp off. Just take it slow and be very patient.
4) once the old filter is free of all the connections, remove it completely and place the new one next to the old one side by side. You will now have to remove the two rubber sleeves from the old filter and install it on the new one. make sure they are installed in the exact location as where it was found on the old filter, u ensure this by comparing them side by side. install the inlet/fuel preheater assembly on the filter first. When i bought the new filter, for some reason i was not given a new rubber o'ring, however the old filter has an o ring, so i removed that o ring and installed on new one. push the inlet/preheater assembly onto the filter and then reinstall the retaining metal clip by simply pushing it into the slot all the way. re-position the filter but dont install the brackets yet. reinstall the rubber hose on the outlet side of the filter and use a new hose clamp. now when everything is connected.. then reinstall the brackets that hold the filter as well as the 2 x 10mm bolts.
5) before u reinstall all the plastic panels, we will now bleed the system, and check for leaks.
6) connect the diagnostic cable and run DIS v57. once the QUICK TEST is completed in DIS, hit the next button (green arrow on the bottom right hand side). Press FUNCTION SELECTION button on the bottom left hand side of DIS. under FUNCTIONS, select SERVICE FUNCTIONS, then select DIESEL ELECTRONICS. Now under the Diesel electronics menu, select BLEEDING, FUEL SYSTEM, then press TEST SCHEDULE button which is located at the bottom.
7) Now by the time i got to this stage i was too excited and didnt take photos or screen shots or remember exactly what the system displayed however let me try to describe it to u, and when you guys get to this stage, u will know what i mean. so please bear with me.
there will be some text that says something along the lines of " the fuel pump will be activated for at least 3 minutes to ensure system is bled of all air" something like that. When u see this press the next button (green arrow on bottom of right hand side).
now u should hear ur electric fuel pump in the fuel tank run, its a distince whirring sound, and u will hear sloshing/hissing/splashing sound as well, as the fuel is pushed into filter, up to the high pressure fuel pump and back into the tank via the return lines and back into the tank.. that is the sloshing sound ur hearing.. the diesel returning to the tank. let this run for about 3 minutes. whilst that is going on, feel around the rubber outlet hose and also the inlet/preheater assembly for any leaks. there should be none. If there is tighten the clamp and check the clip for the inlet assembly to ensure it is installed correctly. Im not sure if the software automatically stops electric pump after three minutes, however I just waited for what seemed like three minutes and press the next button in DIS, this takes us to the next step of the bleeding/priming process. DIS will tell u something along the lines of "ensure park brake on and vehicle is secured for next step". Press next, DIS will now tell u to start the engine. Press the brake pedal and hit the start engine button, ur engine should fire up straight away like normal. At this stage DIS will say something like " Ur engine RPM will be raised to set fuel rail pressure and ensure all air is bled from system" something along those lines, i dont remember the exact text word for word. Once engine is started ur rpm will automatically rise to about 2000rpm. This is DIS at work. leave ur car in this state (idleing at 2000rpm). DIS says to leave it for 10mins. after around this time i pressed the next button in DIS, the engine rpm dropped back to normal idle speed. DIS then said to switch off engine, and that was end of bleeding procedure.
8) once bleeding proceedure is completed, and u have verified there are no leaks. replace all the plastic panels underneath.
doing the proper bleeding/priming procedure above ensures that the High Pressure Fuel Pump is never run dried causing wear to it. after doing it the proper way above, and watching my car fire up straight away like normal, i cringe thinking of all those who changed the filter and didnt prime the system, when they went to start the car it cranked for "an eternity" before it fired up. Think of the poor High Pressure Fuel Pump with all its tight tolerance internals running dry with no diesel to lubricate it - yikes.
Please post feedback, questions or just your own experience with changing fuel filter.
all the best and happy DIY-ing
I finally mustered the courage to tackle this job this wk end and completed it successfully.
I actually bought the new fuel filter many months ago.. but was alway uncertain about the procedure to bleed the fuel system of air. I didnt want to risk running the High Pressure Fuel Pump dry and causing premature wear to it or worst damaging it.
I have heard many conflicting ways of going about it. Many say to just simply switch the ignition on (by key in, pressing the stop/start button without pressing brake) and it will activate the electric lift pump in the fuel tank and self prime/bleed. I was quite unconvinced by this method as when i normally do this, i do not hear the fuel pump or anything whir or run at all. its all silent.. on my car any ways. In fact, after doing the bleeding procedure the correct way, it confirmed to me that i never actually heard the fuel pump running doing the above mentioned method. As the electric fuel pump actually makes a very distinct whiring sound.
so i held off and invested in time to research and invested in the software itself plus the cable. It took me a while to actually get the software (DIS v57) up and running and actually become familiar with it enough to be confident in using it.
Finally with all the right parts and all the right working software, i set about changing the diesel fuel filter. during my research, i never got a straight answer or any real specific detailed information/instruction as to how to use DIS to bleed the fuel system (many sites just merely mentions "to use DIS to bleed system" without any further details. I took the risk and did it myself with success so hence here i want to share it with you all..
I dont have any pics this time round, as i didnt know what to expect and was just very anxious to get the thing done. stoping to take happy snaps was the last thing on my mind. but the nx time i change it, promise to have some pics. So apologies for no pics, and please bear with me as i try my best to describe it using plain old english.
***If you already know how to physcally change the filter itself and want to skip me rambling on about how to do it and just want to know how to bleed using software then skip to step 6 below.
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Bimmerfest take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
To change the fuel filter u will need the following:
8mm socket
10mm socket
needle nose pliers
flat head screw drivers
DIS v57 diagnostic software plus cable plus laptop to run it all on
new diesel fuel filter
new hose clamp
catch pan
rags
1) u can choose to jack up the vehicle, however my x5 had pretty good ground clearances and im not the biggest bloke in town so i didnt have to jack up my vehicle. please use jack stands and common sense when jacking vehicle.
2) The fuel filter is located on the passenger side (my car is a Right Hand Drive) towards the rear door underneath the vehicle. there are two large plastic covers that needs to be removed to gain access to the fuel filter. u have a foward large plastic cover and a rear large plastic cover, you will need to undo the retaining bolts, they are a combination of 8 and 10mm. Also along the bottom of the side step railing plastic that meets the large plastic panels underneath, there are retaining clips that are just pushed into place. use ur needle nose pliers to grab at them and just pull them directly down. once all the bolts and clips are removed, remove the foward and rear plastic covers. u should now see ur fuel filter.
* i actually spent more time mucking around with the removal and installation of the plastic covers than i did actually swapping out the fuel filter.
** i apologise for the lack of photos.
3) now u can see the fuel filter, it is held in place by two brackets with 2 x 10mm bolts. remove these and remove the brackets completely. the fuel filter should be free to move around slightly now. it will only be held on by the pipe on one end and the inlet/fuel heater assembly on the rear of the filter. to remove the inlet/pre heater assembly from the filter there will be a metal retaining clip. use ur flat head screwdriver to pry it off by pulling it down. grab the filter with one hand and the assembly with the other. give it a wiggle and good pull away from filter, it will come off.. abit of diesel will pour out, at this stage have ur drain pan handy. To remove the other hose from the outlet of the filter, it is fitted with factory one use only clamps. use a combination of small flat head screw driver and needle nose pliers to pry this off. it will be destroy to remove.. doesnt matter as we will be replacing this with a hose clamp anyways. If ur reading this forum, it means u are a DIY'er, therefore i have faith in you that u can and will figure a way to pry that fatory clamp off. Just take it slow and be very patient.
4) once the old filter is free of all the connections, remove it completely and place the new one next to the old one side by side. You will now have to remove the two rubber sleeves from the old filter and install it on the new one. make sure they are installed in the exact location as where it was found on the old filter, u ensure this by comparing them side by side. install the inlet/fuel preheater assembly on the filter first. When i bought the new filter, for some reason i was not given a new rubber o'ring, however the old filter has an o ring, so i removed that o ring and installed on new one. push the inlet/preheater assembly onto the filter and then reinstall the retaining metal clip by simply pushing it into the slot all the way. re-position the filter but dont install the brackets yet. reinstall the rubber hose on the outlet side of the filter and use a new hose clamp. now when everything is connected.. then reinstall the brackets that hold the filter as well as the 2 x 10mm bolts.
5) before u reinstall all the plastic panels, we will now bleed the system, and check for leaks.
6) connect the diagnostic cable and run DIS v57. once the QUICK TEST is completed in DIS, hit the next button (green arrow on the bottom right hand side). Press FUNCTION SELECTION button on the bottom left hand side of DIS. under FUNCTIONS, select SERVICE FUNCTIONS, then select DIESEL ELECTRONICS. Now under the Diesel electronics menu, select BLEEDING, FUEL SYSTEM, then press TEST SCHEDULE button which is located at the bottom.
7) Now by the time i got to this stage i was too excited and didnt take photos or screen shots or remember exactly what the system displayed however let me try to describe it to u, and when you guys get to this stage, u will know what i mean. so please bear with me.
there will be some text that says something along the lines of " the fuel pump will be activated for at least 3 minutes to ensure system is bled of all air" something like that. When u see this press the next button (green arrow on bottom of right hand side).
now u should hear ur electric fuel pump in the fuel tank run, its a distince whirring sound, and u will hear sloshing/hissing/splashing sound as well, as the fuel is pushed into filter, up to the high pressure fuel pump and back into the tank via the return lines and back into the tank.. that is the sloshing sound ur hearing.. the diesel returning to the tank. let this run for about 3 minutes. whilst that is going on, feel around the rubber outlet hose and also the inlet/preheater assembly for any leaks. there should be none. If there is tighten the clamp and check the clip for the inlet assembly to ensure it is installed correctly. Im not sure if the software automatically stops electric pump after three minutes, however I just waited for what seemed like three minutes and press the next button in DIS, this takes us to the next step of the bleeding/priming process. DIS will tell u something along the lines of "ensure park brake on and vehicle is secured for next step". Press next, DIS will now tell u to start the engine. Press the brake pedal and hit the start engine button, ur engine should fire up straight away like normal. At this stage DIS will say something like " Ur engine RPM will be raised to set fuel rail pressure and ensure all air is bled from system" something along those lines, i dont remember the exact text word for word. Once engine is started ur rpm will automatically rise to about 2000rpm. This is DIS at work. leave ur car in this state (idleing at 2000rpm). DIS says to leave it for 10mins. after around this time i pressed the next button in DIS, the engine rpm dropped back to normal idle speed. DIS then said to switch off engine, and that was end of bleeding procedure.
8) once bleeding proceedure is completed, and u have verified there are no leaks. replace all the plastic panels underneath.
doing the proper bleeding/priming procedure above ensures that the High Pressure Fuel Pump is never run dried causing wear to it. after doing it the proper way above, and watching my car fire up straight away like normal, i cringe thinking of all those who changed the filter and didnt prime the system, when they went to start the car it cranked for "an eternity" before it fired up. Think of the poor High Pressure Fuel Pump with all its tight tolerance internals running dry with no diesel to lubricate it - yikes.
Please post feedback, questions or just your own experience with changing fuel filter.
all the best and happy DIY-ing
