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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 05-09-2014, 03:53 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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GOOD NEWS:
Well look what I found, that's the transmission cooling radiator. Completely clogged with some stuff that looks like goo.

I know what that came from, a year a go I put a head gasket sealing stuff. So if you are reading this, DO NOT use that stuff.

BAD NEWS:
The transmission still gets hot, but not like before. When I got off the FWY it was at 201F and it went up to 220F with heavy acceleration stop and go driving.

It did the slipping when I just got off the FWY (temperature 201F) which do not make any sense now. Then I parked the car because I had to buy something at the store, when I drove around (temperature 217F) now the slipping didn't happen I'm very confused now.






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Last edited by frvega; 05-09-2014 at 03:56 PM.
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  #27  
Old 05-16-2014, 07:54 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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I finally got the info regarding the torque converter that was installed on my car.

I was told is "CVT3"

From my research the CVT3 is a type of transmission used on Hondas with FWD.

My question to you all; do you know if that is the correct or compatible torque converter for a BMW 328i 1999 with a A5S360R transmission and RWD?
Your advice will be greatly appreciated.


I believe the BMW torque converter for a 328i 1999 with the A5S360R transmission should be using the Kevlar or Carbon Fiber because of the PWM used on the A5S360R transmission. The Paper will cause excessive heat on a PWM transmission.


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  #28  
Old 05-17-2014, 12:17 AM
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Once you get the clutches to slip from over heating they will always be prone to do it. The more it happens the more they wear thus the easier (and less temp needed to have it happen) they will slip in the future.

I doubt you have torque converter issues since that has its own nice code it sets. Anything goes south on the converter shows up fast with limp mode.
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  #29  
Old 05-17-2014, 06:49 AM
frvega frvega is offline
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well according to what I have read, a torque coverter with the paper lining will not set a code it will only fail faster and will over heat due to the friction generated from the PWM.
Do you know if the CVT3 type torque converter has the carbon fiber?

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  #30  
Old 05-17-2014, 11:47 AM
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I cant find anything in any of my transmission manuals, parts supplier catalogs etc that shows ANY cvt type torque converter that will mate up with that transmission. Id want to see a part number off that torque converter or a receipt where they ordered it.

Also there is no "cvt3" torque converter listed in any of my parts lists for any car.

So cant help on that.
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  #31  
Old 05-17-2014, 12:36 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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First let me thank you CROWZ, you are the only one trying to help me here and thanks to you I found few things wrong with the transmission by following-up and methodic troubleshooting.

On the CVT3; I didn't find it either, what I found is that the CVT3 is a Japanise "Continuously variable transmission" third generation.



On this video the fluid is also different to the ATF used on BMW, so if I have a CVT3 type torque converter it should be expecting CVTF+4 - I know that the Type F transmission fluid is used by Ford and its viscosity is much more than the dextron VI, but obviously I will not be putting CVTF+4 on my transmission.



What do you think ? what is your opinion.

I'll be going back to the shop and ask for the full part number.
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Last edited by frvega; 05-17-2014 at 12:41 PM.
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  #32  
Old 05-17-2014, 12:42 PM
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Thats the thing with a cvt transmission (im familiar with the cvt trans itself) the torque converter used on them would behave so radically different that I doubt that even if it could be installed on that transmission that it wouldnt function at all because of the lockup pathways being different.

Id get the part number off the converter itself to know for sure or get a part number from them. To be honest if I received a car that had been built by someone doing what its been doing to you Id remove it and rebuild it myself to find whats wrong. But since you had someone build it Im going to guess you want someone to rebuild it now to find the problem and fix it so Id find another shop and get them to document what was done wrong so you can either get a refund from the first shop or sue them with the info.
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  #33  
Old 05-17-2014, 12:44 PM
racin366 racin366 is offline
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First of all it sounds like that shop if full of morons or they think you are one. A CVT is a type of transmission, not a torque converter. It means Constantly Variable Transmission, it is really nothing like an automatic, rather than gears, planetaries, a valve body, and bands it has a drivebelt and 2 sets of paired angled 'pulleys' that are moveable, depending on the design they may or may not have a converter. If you want to understand more about them do a little research, but they have nothing to do with your problem.

From reading above it sounds like you are trying to destroy the already poorly rebuilt transmission, repeatedly getting it that hot is pretty much the worst thing you can do, so cut it out, you aren't any closer to figuring out the problem, but you are much closer to a total trans failure. You say you need someone experienced to tell you why its getting hot, what you really need is someone experienced and skilled to LOOK at the car, do some diagnostics, and figure out why. Guessing and DIY testing is not getting the job done, you may be in over your head on this one, automatic transmissions require some specified equipment to be properly dealt with for major issues like this. It sounds pretty certain the monkeys in that shop did a piss poor job rebuilding it; it could be a matter of using the wrong fluid, shoddy or cheap parts, or they may just be terrible at their job. That garbage in the cooler could be from that worthless head gasket crap you used (you already learned that lesson it seems) or it could be from the trans tearing itself apart, between bands getting burned up and leaving deposits in the fluid, the high temps you've subjected it to cooking the fluid and seals, whatever piss fluid they may have put it in it at rebuild, etc it's hard to guess, but from what I've read so far it sounds unlikely they would have used the correct fluid, I may be wrong there though. It's a common problem with Mopars, they need to have a specific fluid type and even a perfect high quality rebuild will fail quickly if the wrong fluid is used and it happens a lot.

With all the abuse you've put on it since they will probably tell you to kick rocks even if they know they are at fault, and you aren't going to find it easy to prove that or get them to make it right. One way or another it needs to be seen by a GOOD transmission tech and go from there. There should be plenty of shops that can do it right in LA, do not be guided by price or you will probably get another craptastic job. Cheap labor is not skilled, skilled labor is not cheap. I am not sure what recourse you may as far as getting them to make it right since I don't know CA law, but talking to them would be a start, maybe the better business bureau and/or chamber of commerce to file a complaint and see if others have, or a small claims attorney? Whatever you try to do there IMHO you're still going to be best off having it properly diagnosed so you have accurate info to give rather than telling of how you've beaten the snot out of it and it doesn't work as it should. I'm not trying to be a dick, just trying to help and give my honest opinion, you don't need sugar coating, you need some help getting this resolved. Best of luck

Last edited by racin366; 05-17-2014 at 12:47 PM.
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  #34  
Old 05-17-2014, 12:46 PM
racin366 racin366 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowz View Post
Thats the thing with a cvt transmission (im familiar with the cvt trans itself) the torque converter used on them would behave so radically different that I doubt that even if it could be installed on that transmission that it wouldnt function at all because of the lockup pathways being different.
They can't, the input shafts are completely different as are the torque converter snouts and fluids needed, and not all CVTs even have a converter.
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  #35  
Old 05-17-2014, 01:03 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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Thank you racin366, yes I know what you are telling me is very much what is happening and that is why I been trying to find what is wrong so I can build a case.

And you are right about taking it to a more expensive shop, but I want to make sure I do get my money back.
What about if the current shop comes around saying the warranty is voided because the transmission was open and worked by some one else? any how I'll need to research on that also to figure the right way to do that without paying big $$$ for an attorney.

I'll talk to them and see if they will change the torque converter with one designed for this engine if they decline then I'll be setting up for a battle in court.
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  #36  
Old 05-17-2014, 01:19 PM
racin366 racin366 is offline
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If you have a warranty I would first request they give you a written list of every part and fluid used, tell them it is just for book keeping, your accountant is anal. Take that list to an expert and verify they are all the correct parts. Then consult an attorney or 2, most will talk to you for a half hour or so free consultation and you'll have a much better idea of your options than I can give you, I just don't know the laws there and don't want to give you bad advice. After that you can let the shop that did the rebuild have a look, see what they will do, but make sure they understand that you will not be giving them another penny, they were already paid to do the job right at the price they asked, they need to do so. If they try to charge you be absolutely certain you think it is fair before agreeing to let them do anything, if it were me I would tell them from the start that I trusted them to do a good job and expect them to do so, I will not pay another penny so if they even think they are going to want to charge me I am taking the car elsewhere and they can see me in court where I will be suing for the cost of having the work they already charged for and botched done correctly somewhere else.

Many states have a law where a shop needs to give you an estimate and they cannot do any work without your written approval if that work will exceed the estimate by $100. I would make them give me an estimate for no more than $45 (about a half hour of labor) and tell them do not exceed that for any reason.

If they used any wrong parts or fluid it may have damaged something else and the whole thing should be gone through and inspected, at their expense, not yours.

And btw, that crud in the cooler suggests they did a poor job, if they built and installed it and were warrantying it any half ass or better shop would have made sure the cooler was clean because it's their a$$ and money if they don't.
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  #37  
Old 05-19-2014, 04:28 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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Shop owner told me to get the GM part number for the torque converter that I think is the right one.

rancin366 or crowz do you know what part number?

Obviously I'm not looking at a BMW part number and pay $1500 for a torque converter, the transmission is a GM so I should be able to find the part under GM 5L40E.

I'll be searching and see what part I find, but if you guys can help that'll be greatly appreciated and at the same time I'll feel at lot more confident about the part.



1st Digit (application trans)>>
B -- THM250C, THM350C>>
C -- 200C, 2004R, Pre-1984 1/2: 325-4L & 700r4>>
D -- 1984 1/2-up 700r4, 4L60, 4L60-E>>
2nd Digit (approx stall, depends on engine)>>
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Last edited by frvega; 05-19-2014 at 05:20 PM.
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  #38  
Old 05-19-2014, 09:54 PM
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Part number is 24216768
or
Codes 2421 2840

Last edited by crowz; 05-19-2014 at 09:56 PM.
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  #39  
Old 05-19-2014, 10:48 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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Thank you so much crowz

PART: 2421 2840



This is what I found and is very close to your number so I'll just take all of them to the shop.

2839 (1999) and 2840 (2000) have the same description.
The key word is "WOVEN CLUTH" which is the "WOVEN CARBON FIBER" That is what is going to bring the heat down.

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  #40  
Old 05-19-2014, 11:18 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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I wonder why they have different measurements

Is "lock Up type" the same as "Clutch type"


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  #41  
Old 05-20-2014, 01:29 AM
frvega frvega is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frvega View Post
I wonder why they have different measurements

Is "lock Up type" the same as "Clutch type"


For documentation: I'll use the "24212839" GM part number
The 'LOW STALL' and 'CARBON WOVEN' will help on keeping the transmission cooler - I hope

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Last edited by frvega; 05-20-2014 at 01:34 AM.
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  #42  
Old 06-04-2014, 12:10 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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Update:

Finally got the torque converter replaced and I'll start testing the car today.

What I did today:
Did a transmission fluid change and I'm not happy with what I found.

1. two strip bolts on the oil pan
2. one not fully tight bold from transmission to engine
3. metal shavings on oil (flakes)

I'm not going back to that @$#$&% shop, I'm just going to keep good records because I think this is going to be one of my life learning experiences.


crowz or racin366 or any body out there with experience after transmission rebuild or remanufactured, my question is.

Is the metal shaving normal on transmission rebuild?

I'll post a pic of the oil later.

Edit:
Unable to take pic, oil is Royal Purple, bit darker than regular dex VI
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  #43  
Old 06-04-2014, 06:30 PM
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NO. Metal shavings in the pan are NOT normal from a rebuild. Ever.
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  #44  
Old 06-04-2014, 11:31 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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The owner of the shop told me is normal, the metal shaving is from the torque converter and I should change the oil in 2 months. (like racin366 said, this guy is taking me for a fool)

I know where he bought the converter, I'll take the oil to them tomorrow and tell them he is telling me their converters have metal shaving and see what they say.

Do any body knows if here in Los Angeles CA there are rentable work garage?

I have a friend who is very good with BMW, I'm too, but we don't have a lift, We might have to take the transmission apart.
I want to get every single penny I paid this shop and more for all the trouble and time spend on this issue.
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  #45  
Old 06-07-2014, 12:00 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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UPDATE:

Cracked engine oil pan (from not supporting engine when they took out transmission).
Leaking oil from transmission pan (possible from striped screws).
Car is vibrating at idle (suspect they did not install the two guides to align engine to transmission).


why this all happening to me, my GOD please! what did I do wrong?

Shop owner told me that is impossible to have the engine oil pan cracked by not supporting the engine and that it shouldn't done any harm by not supporting it. He told me to bring it back on Monday to take a look.
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  #46  
Old 06-08-2014, 03:41 PM
racin366 racin366 is offline
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Dude, just go to a real shop, these hacks will make it worse and keep feeding you a yarn about not their fault. What did you do wrong? You trusted hacks, it happens. Cut your losses and go to a qualified shop. In future, do not shop by price, cheap labor is not skilled, skilled labor is not cheap. Not trying to be mean, but I'd hate to see you let them ruin any more things.
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  #47  
Old 06-08-2014, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racin366 View Post
Dude, just go to a real shop, these hacks will make it worse and keep feeding you a yarn about not their fault. What did you do wrong? You trusted hacks, it happens. Cut your losses and go to a qualified shop. In future, do not shop by price, cheap labor is not skilled, skilled labor is not cheap. Not trying to be mean, but I'd hate to see you let them ruin any more things.
I wholeheartedly agree !
The OP has been dealing with incompetent MORONS....it`s time for a change....
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  #48  
Old 06-09-2014, 09:07 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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I didn't think $1800 was cheap for a rebuild. I don't have another $3000 to go to another shop. So court will do just fine I hope.

BTW: If a shop would have quoted $3000 for a rebuild on a $6000 car I would have sold the car.
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  #49  
Old 06-21-2014, 09:15 PM
frvega frvega is offline
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Oil pan fixed, strip bolt kit M6 1.0 mm
There were actually 6 stripped bolts. ( I haven't seen the transmission mechanic for a while )

At the same time I'm happy to report that there were no metal shaving in the oil, so it was from the first (wrong) torque converter.
For some reason after cleaning the side of the Engine Oil Pan we have not seen any oil from what appears to be a crack.

And I know there was nothing put on or added, since I was there the whole time. Without being able to reproduce the oil leak I had no case on the issue.

The transmission is working fine and I'm glad I went for the low stall TC.

Upgrades: Added a 6 lines transmission oil cooler and transmission temperature dropped 15 F, I couldn't figured out how to install it in the front without some major changes, if I did the temperature had dropped 30 F.

I love this Transmission Oil Cooler. If I found a way to do the same for the Engine Oil I'll definitely add one too.

Some pics:

Transmission Oil Pan leak


Engine Oil Pan Crack:


Transmission cooler lines:


Transmission to Engine screw not torque down:
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Last edited by frvega; 06-22-2014 at 12:45 AM.
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  #50  
Old 06-21-2014, 09:50 PM
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Figured this post was going to be where you popped a cap in that mechanic. You have a ton more patience with them than I would of had.
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