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E28 (1982 - 1988)

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  #1  
Old 05-07-2014, 05:21 PM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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1988 528E Auto shuddering under load

My most reliable car is now stuttering under load. i changed the fuel pumps as they were original. I have about 250K+ miles on it. New rotor, newer coil, lugs and wires. Runs fine at idle and can rev no problem. Acceleration slowly does not do anything out of the ordinary. Once I step on the gas it starts stuttering. I can floor it and it will accelerate but not like it should. Exhaust looks like it was replaced within last couple of years.

Any help would be appreciated. Don't know where to look next.
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  #2  
Old 05-10-2014, 11:20 AM
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catso catso is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 323i, 1988 528e
Quote:
Originally Posted by ganglin3665 View Post
My most reliable car is now stuttering under load. i changed the fuel pumps as they were original. I have about 250K+ miles on it. New rotor, newer coil, lugs and wires. Runs fine at idle and can rev no problem. Acceleration slowly does not do anything out of the ordinary. Once I step on the gas it starts stuttering. I can floor it and it will accelerate but not like it should. Exhaust looks like it was replaced within last couple of years.

Any help would be appreciated. Don't know where to look next.
I'm guessing it's ignition related. How about the spark plugs? Distributor cap? Pulse sensor? Wiring and grounds? Maybe a fuel flow problem or exhaust restriction, with 250K your catalytic converter may be clogged. Lots of possibilities.
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Last edited by catso; 05-10-2014 at 11:21 AM.
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  #3  
Old 05-10-2014, 12:27 PM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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Checked the ignition all wires are firing when they should. Checked at night and could not see any missfire or crossfire. I did pull the plugs that I replaced last year and they are black. Looks like it is running rich. So I think maybe coil? I replaced the cap and rotor last year as well. Exhaust is not original but I do not know when it was replaced so it could be cat. I am trying to narrow it down and not guess with replacing parts. Anyone know the resistance values I should see on the coil?
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  #4  
Old 05-10-2014, 12:34 PM
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catso catso is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganglin3665 View Post
Checked the ignition all wires are firing when they should. Checked at night and could not see any missfire or crossfire. I did pull the plugs that I replaced last year and they are black. Looks like it is running rich. So I think maybe coil? I replaced the cap and rotor last year as well. Exhaust is not original but I do not know when it was replaced so it could be cat. I am trying to narrow it down and not guess with replacing parts. Anyone know the resistance values I should see on the coil?
Primary resistance between - and + terminals: 0.50 ohms. Secondary resistance between +terminal and tower: 6000 ohms.
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  #5  
Old 05-10-2014, 06:05 PM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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I have 3500 ohms on secondary. Ordered new coil. Hopefully it will start when I get the parts. Thanks for the help.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2014, 04:53 AM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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Well strike two. Did not fix the problem. It appears that the miss fire is cylinders 5 and 6. What is the sensor that is around cylinder 6 plug wire? It connects to the diag connector. I did order new plug wires as that is the last item I have not replace. Already replaced plugs, cap and rotor last year. Which sensor actually controls timing? Cam or crank?
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2014, 03:01 PM
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catso catso is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 323i, 1988 528e
On a 1988 528e a single pulse sensor on the front of the engine senses engine speed and crankshaft position. Its resistance should be 540 + or - 54 ohms and it should be positioned appx. 1.0mm from the toothed crankshaft wheel.
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2014, 05:02 PM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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Ok so the pulse sensor reads like 3 ohms. so I want to replace it. the number on the back is 0261210 835. Can anyone cross this to something I can buy? It looks like AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5S1654. Searches have not been helpful.
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2014, 07:57 PM
John in VA John in VA is offline
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Mein Auto: '74 tii / E28s / '03 530i
From huskerparts.com, a BMW dealer in Lincoln NE:
Part Number 12141720852
Part Name C/SHAFT POS./RPM SEN
MSRP $107.00
Online Price $70.11

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...12&fg=10&hl=43
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  #10  
Old 05-20-2014, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganglin3665 View Post
Ok so the pulse sensor reads like 3 ohms. so I want to replace it. the number on the back is 0261210 835. Can anyone cross this to something I can buy? It looks like AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5S1654. Searches have not been helpful.
Do yourself a favor and stick with OEM for critical ignition components. The number I came up with is: 12141720852, which costs about $86 or so. There was also another part number that superceded that. When looking for parts it's usually best to start your search at www.RealOEM.com then enter the appropriate part number at: http://www.furiousmethod.com/ an excellent search machine designed for finding BMW parts.
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  #11  
Old 06-02-2014, 10:20 AM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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Well I replaced the ignition wires and the pulse sensor as well as the cap. It now runs fine. I did check resistance of the new sensor and it is not 560 ohms. It actually reads like 3. Odd. Any way problem solved.
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  #12  
Old 06-02-2014, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganglin3665 View Post
Well I replaced the ignition wires and the pulse sensor as well as the cap. It now runs fine. I did check resistance of the new sensor and it is not 560 ohms. It actually reads like 3. Odd. Any way problem solved.
I like to replace one thing at a time, just so I can determine what the core problem is.
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2014, 09:53 AM
ganglin3665 ganglin3665 is offline
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It was the crank position sensor. last thing I replaced.
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2014, 07:48 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Interesting you see black (rich) spark plugs so then want to replace the ign coil. Did you consider an injector clean and fuel pressure check? (Injector clean is remove and rig clean and test. Pls don't get tempted to pour stuff into the fuel tank - IMO a waste of money, time and effort.)
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