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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 06-15-2014, 02:05 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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2008 328i Shut Down Suddenly while driving

I was just driving my 328i sitting at a light, when I accelerated at green the car suddenly shut down and i coasted to the side of the road. There was no warning, no lights, nothing. The car was dead, all gages were stuck where they were when it shut down. I can't even get the key out. I was able to manually get it into Neutral with the switch under the shifter and get it towed to my house. Its still dead.

I checked the battery cables and they all look and feel secure. The battery was just replaced in early February (5 months ago).

One thing that i thought was out of place was the radio cut out and then back on just before it happened, i know in past experiences with other cars this was normally the alternator, but i usually got a battery light along with it. Not sure exactly what my first step should be, and i am hoping someone one here can help.

Last edited by tpayankee; 06-15-2014 at 02:09 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2014, 04:00 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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If Anyone has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated Thanks.
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2014, 04:08 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Did you have the battery cable recall done?

The faulty connection is at the fuse panel in the glovebox. Wiggle the positive battery cable going into the fuse panel and see if power is cut/restored.
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2014, 04:43 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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I went and looked, Im not sure which cable is the Positive batter cable. Also, i bought the car in january used, where could i tell if the recall was done?
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2014, 05:02 PM
tmaster1 tmaster1 is offline
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Call your closest BMW dealership and give them your VIN number, they will know if the recall has been perform.
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  #6  
Old 06-16-2014, 12:55 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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I called the dealership and the recall was done in July 2013.. So that's not it. I'm getting it towed to the dealership tonight.
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2014, 02:14 PM
brewder brewder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpayankee View Post
I was just driving my 328i sitting at a light, when I accelerated at green the car suddenly shut down and i coasted to the side of the road. There was no warning, no lights, nothing. The car was dead, all gages were stuck where they were when it shut down. I can't even get the key out. I was able to manually get it into Neutral with the switch under the shifter and get it towed to my house. Its still dead.

I checked the battery cables and they all look and feel secure. The battery was just replaced in early February (5 months ago).

One thing that i thought was out of place was the radio cut out and then back on just before it happened, i know in past experiences with other cars this was normally the alternator, but i usually got a battery light along with it. Not sure exactly what my first step should be, and i am hoping someone one here can help.
Something similar happened to me in my 2007 E92... While driving down a highway at 80Mph, the car turned OFF completely for 1-2 seconds. Scared the bejesus out of me. It came right back on and I never had to stop or anything. A few days later (I was traveling on business), I went to see the dealer. They said is was a "stuck" VANOS, according to the code they pulled, and blew it out to clean it.

I switched the oil I was using (car had roughly 58,000 miles on it, 52,000 from a prior owner) to Liqui Moly 5W30 religiously every 7,500 miles and it hasn't happened since.... and that was probably 70k miles ago.
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  #8  
Old 06-16-2014, 02:28 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpayankee View Post
I called the dealership and the recall was done in July 2013.. So that's not it. I'm getting it towed to the dealership tonight.
How was the recall done?

There are 2 fixes....If the cable is in bad condition, ie burnt, melted, etc., they replace the entire length of cable from the battery compartment.

If the cable is in good condition, they remove the terminal and crimp on a new one. I've see dealers severely screw up the crimping. I've personally fixed a few of these because the owner didn't trust the dealer to do it a second time.

The symptoms you describe mimic those documented for this recall so I wouldn't just call it quits because the dealer said the "repair" was carried out.
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  #9  
Old 06-17-2014, 05:39 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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So here is an update. I was told by the dealer than my man in fuse box was completely fried, melted even. I immediately asked if it could have anything to do with the recall repair of the power cable and the service advisor said no. Tomorrow the tech is going to dig deeper and see what caused it. Here is my concern now.... Clearly everything that was getting any voltage from that fuse box would have gotten a huge blast when it fried, so do i now have to be worried about future issues?

Would it be out of line to say that the entire under dash harness needs to be replaced?
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2014, 06:03 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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The junction box, which sits right above the fuse panel, distributes power to all the main modules in the car. From there, the individual modules supply power to individual circuits.

If anything, you may have issues with the junction box. But as far as it completely frying everything in the car, I doubt it.

The reason the wire melted/burned is because there was no a good connection to the fuse panel. This causes resistance which in turn causes excess heat build, hence the melted/burned wire.

I would call BMW NA and see that they have to say.

This is exactly what happens as per the recall. Your SA doesn't know what he is talking about. Or this is a different cable all together.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 06-17-2014 at 06:15 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-17-2014, 06:25 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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What is the BMW NA? This is all relatively new to me, sorry.
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2014, 06:33 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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It is BMW North America. It's BMW headquarters in the US.
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2014, 03:35 PM
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Vanos4:12PM Vanos4:12PM is offline
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Keep us posted what the dealer finds out.
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2014, 12:56 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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Update: I misunderstood what the SA orginally stated. It wasnt the main Fuse box, it was the Junction Box located in the trunk that fried. They just got the part in today and are currently installing it. Once they get get the car running i was told they will be able to dig deeper to see what caused.

Does this make sense to anyone?
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  #15  
Old 06-19-2014, 01:37 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpayankee View Post
Update: I misunderstood what the SA orginally stated. It wasnt the main Fuse box, it was the Junction Box located in the trunk that fried. They just got the part in today and are currently installing it. Once they get get the car running i was told they will be able to dig deeper to see what caused.

Does this make sense to anyone?
The junction box is located above the fuse panel, in the front of the car.

You are probably referring to the distribution panel that sits above the battery in the back of the car.

The real question is.....why did the fuses blow? They rarely blow and I would suspect a short somewhere that is causing the panel to blow.

If the panel blows a second time, you need to find the short and repair it or it will continue to blow
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Last edited by fdriller9; 06-19-2014 at 01:38 PM.
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2014, 01:41 PM
tpayankee tpayankee is offline
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I really need to learn my car better. The SA literally just told me it was the junction box located in the trunk, and in order to get to it to install, they essentially had to take apart the rear of the vehicle.
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2014, 02:21 PM
EnjoyDrivingMN EnjoyDrivingMN is offline
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Wow - it would scare the **** out of me. OP - wish you good luck and is this going to be covered by any warranty?
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