DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i: Front/Rear Diff, MT, Transfer Case Fluids
The E53 is now at 115K miles. Time for Fluid Changes***8230;
PARTS/TOOLS:
* The capacity is approximate and I did my best to estimate it.
* Front Diff ~ 0.7L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.
* Rear Diff ~ 1.5L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.
* Man Trans ~ 1.7L, Redline MT-90 Fluid, 8-mm Hex type.
* Transfer Case ~ 0.8L, BMW Fluid PN 83220397244, about $40/qt at local BMW dealer. It is GL-4 fluid but proprietary juice, so you are stuck with this juice! Drain/Fill bolts: 16-mm with washers. I re-used the washers.
* Make sure you mark the Hex key with Sharpie at let***8217;s say 1cm deep, this way you know the hex key is fully inserted into the bolts to avoid stripping it! Clean the inside of the Hex Fill/Drain Bolts to allow the hex key to be fully inserted.
* You need an Iron Pipe for added leverage on the ratchet.
![Image]()
For those who are new to BMW X-drive, this is what it looks like
![Image]()
* You can do gravity fill but you need long hose. A friend told me to use the Suction Gun ($15 at auto parts store), so I gave it a try, it actually worked great.
- Avoid the "Pump Tool" because it tends to fall apart after a few uses. So best is to use "Suction Gun".
- When using "Suction Gun", after sucking the fluid, plug the end with your finger to prevent spill. Make sure you have cardboard, newspaper to absorb the spill on the driveway.
- Pay attention to what system you are filling, making sure you fill with the correct fluid. It is very easy to get distracted and fill with incorrect fluid.
- Make sure you can undo the FILL bolt before removing the DRAIN bolt for obvious reasons!
- Fill the fluid until it drips out of the FILL hole, then install the FILL bolt.
PROCEDURE:
1. Car on wood ramps on level surface, in 1st Gear (or Park for those with A.T.); apply Parking Brake.
Chock the wheels if possible.
![Image]()
2. The PLASTIC SHIELD is held by these bolts, screws, pay attention to which is which!
![Image]()
3. The METAL SHIELD: you must re-install it once done!!!
- This is because the Swaybar Endlink is held down by the same 16-mm bolts/nuts.
- You need to counter-hold the nut while undoing the 16-mm bolts.
- If you decide to leave the METAL SHIELD out to monitor fluid leak, I am thinking using some big washers and re-install the 6 bolts/nuts.-
- Support the METAL SHIELD with a jack, then lower it to the ground.
![Image]()
![Image]()
4. I do the FRONT and REAR Diff together because it is the same fluid.
- You will need a 14-mm Hex socket. I used 1/2-inch ratchet with Iron Pipe for extra leverage. Again, make sure the Hex key is fully inserted.
- Clean the inside of the Drain/Fill plugs to be sure the socket is fully seated before undoing or tightening it. Failure to do so can result to stripping the Hex head!
- Mark the 14-mm Hex socket with Sharpie so you know it is fully seated before loosening or tightening it!
Front Diff:
![Image]()
Rear Diff, fluid still golden color at 115K miles:
![Image]()
![Image]()
5. Man Trans ---> 8-mm Hex:
![Image]()
![Image]()
6. Transfer Case is a challenge because the FILL bolt was very very tight. I almost stripped it!
I had to use a Propane Torch to heat the FILL bolt for a good minute (keep flame away from the White Plastic Cup nearby!). Then the FILL bolt came loose.
![Image]()
That is all boys and girls, routine maintenance goes a long way. Not sure if these fluid changes prolong the life of these parts but what the heck, they recommend these fluid changes at 100K anyway.
---
The E53 is now at 115K miles. Time for Fluid Changes***8230;
PARTS/TOOLS:
* The capacity is approximate and I did my best to estimate it.
* Front Diff ~ 0.7L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.
* Rear Diff ~ 1.5L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.
* Man Trans ~ 1.7L, Redline MT-90 Fluid, 8-mm Hex type.
* Transfer Case ~ 0.8L, BMW Fluid PN 83220397244, about $40/qt at local BMW dealer. It is GL-4 fluid but proprietary juice, so you are stuck with this juice! Drain/Fill bolts: 16-mm with washers. I re-used the washers.
* Make sure you mark the Hex key with Sharpie at let***8217;s say 1cm deep, this way you know the hex key is fully inserted into the bolts to avoid stripping it! Clean the inside of the Hex Fill/Drain Bolts to allow the hex key to be fully inserted.
* You need an Iron Pipe for added leverage on the ratchet.
For those who are new to BMW X-drive, this is what it looks like
* You can do gravity fill but you need long hose. A friend told me to use the Suction Gun ($15 at auto parts store), so I gave it a try, it actually worked great.
- Avoid the "Pump Tool" because it tends to fall apart after a few uses. So best is to use "Suction Gun".
- When using "Suction Gun", after sucking the fluid, plug the end with your finger to prevent spill. Make sure you have cardboard, newspaper to absorb the spill on the driveway.
- Pay attention to what system you are filling, making sure you fill with the correct fluid. It is very easy to get distracted and fill with incorrect fluid.
- Make sure you can undo the FILL bolt before removing the DRAIN bolt for obvious reasons!
- Fill the fluid until it drips out of the FILL hole, then install the FILL bolt.
PROCEDURE:
1. Car on wood ramps on level surface, in 1st Gear (or Park for those with A.T.); apply Parking Brake.
Chock the wheels if possible.
2. The PLASTIC SHIELD is held by these bolts, screws, pay attention to which is which!
3. The METAL SHIELD: you must re-install it once done!!!
- This is because the Swaybar Endlink is held down by the same 16-mm bolts/nuts.
- You need to counter-hold the nut while undoing the 16-mm bolts.
- If you decide to leave the METAL SHIELD out to monitor fluid leak, I am thinking using some big washers and re-install the 6 bolts/nuts.-
- Support the METAL SHIELD with a jack, then lower it to the ground.
4. I do the FRONT and REAR Diff together because it is the same fluid.
- You will need a 14-mm Hex socket. I used 1/2-inch ratchet with Iron Pipe for extra leverage. Again, make sure the Hex key is fully inserted.
- Clean the inside of the Drain/Fill plugs to be sure the socket is fully seated before undoing or tightening it. Failure to do so can result to stripping the Hex head!
- Mark the 14-mm Hex socket with Sharpie so you know it is fully seated before loosening or tightening it!
Front Diff:
Rear Diff, fluid still golden color at 115K miles:
5. Man Trans ---> 8-mm Hex:
6. Transfer Case is a challenge because the FILL bolt was very very tight. I almost stripped it!
I had to use a Propane Torch to heat the FILL bolt for a good minute (keep flame away from the White Plastic Cup nearby!). Then the FILL bolt came loose.
That is all boys and girls, routine maintenance goes a long way. Not sure if these fluid changes prolong the life of these parts but what the heck, they recommend these fluid changes at 100K anyway.
---
