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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:41 AM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Rear bearing job with stuck axel

Well, everything was going well until I ran into a stuck axel. I have tried just about everything and think it's down to two options:
  1. Put it all back together and take it to the shop
  2. Pull the hub with the axel in it and have it pressed out at a machine shop

I already have the caliper and rotor off as well as the axel disconnected from the diff. I am not too familiar with the rear suspension. What all needs to come out to pull the hub off completely?
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:58 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE's Avatar
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewolr View Post
Well, everything was going well until I ran into a stuck axel. I have tried just about everything and think it's down to two options:
  1. Put it all back together and take it to the shop
  2. Pull the hub with the axel in it and have it pressed out at a machine shop

I already have the caliper and rotor off as well as the axel disconnected from the diff. I am not too familiar with the rear suspension. What all needs to come out to pull the hub off completely?

Usually ya gotta swallow hard....bob that apple....Google!

In the first few results, I found:




Aint' it amazin'? The volume of helpful and clear DIY for the 3 series makes this a car to have.


Name:  Mechanic 01 [20].jpg
Views: 102
Size:  9.8 KB
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:06 AM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Trust me, I have been googling the s**t out of this. I watched that vid a few times. There is a lot of info on how to bust loose a stuck axel, many of which include removal of the hub with the axel attached and have a shop press it out. The thing is, I cant seem to find any info on what I should do to get the hub off the car. I guess I could just support the suspension and start taking off bolts, but I know there has to be more to it than that.

To give some flavor, what I have done over a two day period:
Lots of PB
Hit it with a punch and BFH
Hit it with an air hammer (until there is a nice dimple in the axel)
2 Jaw puller (bent it with an 8 lb hammer)
3 jaw puller (wont seat properly on the tapered edge of the hub)
Heat up with a propane torch and wail on it with a 3lb hamer and 1/2 in socket extension

I keep thinking that it's going to break loose, but it's tighter than a bulls ass in a wind storm.

Last edited by ewolr; 08-04-2014 at 08:09 AM.
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:19 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Just unbolt all the suspension arms (there are 5), remove any sensors (wheel speed/abs, brake wear sensors, etc), and then the hub will drop out.
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:26 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Actually, not the hub, rather the knuckle.

I would just take that entire assembly to a shop
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:40 AM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
Actually, not the hub, rather the knuckle.

I would just take that entire assembly to a shop

Yup, but re-assy requires an alignment and fully qualifies as a PITA job.

OP - is that bearing friction welded to yer Bearing Carrier, as BMW officially refers to rear knuckles only?
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:41 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Yea but that's his only option.

The hub is pressed into the bearing, which is then pressed into the knucle.

It's very common for this bearing to rust and the outer race seizes in the knuckle.

I had to replace my entire knuckle when I did my passenger rear bearing.
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  #8  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:46 AM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Correct. The bearing is pressed into the knuckle and the hub is then pressed into the bearing.

So, I will just support the suspension and unbolt everything from the knuckle. Any tips for keeping things fairly aligned? I have read that people disconnect the trailing arm from the suspension and take it out with the knuckle. I dont understand why they would do that, but that is what I have read.

Its odd that it's seized since I live in central Texas where we don't see a lot of salt.

Last edited by ewolr; 08-04-2014 at 08:47 AM.
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:49 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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The alignment shouldn't be affected that much.

The adjustments are on the subframe side. So the outer sections that bolt to the knuckle are static and cannot be adjusted.

The only arms that adjust for alignment in the rear are the lower camber link and the toe arm.

I'm puzzled why people do that with the trailing arm too.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 08-04-2014 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:55 AM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Well, I think that settles it. I am going to unhook it and take it in. I am afraid that my continued pounding on the axel is going to screw it up.
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:59 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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It's not really the salt, it's moisture build up.

I know it's more dry where you are located but they seem to hold moisture. I've seen the outer race seized numerous times on this chassis due to rust.
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  #12  
Old 08-04-2014, 02:46 PM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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I got the sum beach out. Now I have to find a shop to press this thing out.
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  #13  
Old 08-16-2014, 04:48 PM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Well the saga continues. I was out of town for a week and a half and I am now back at it. I took the knuckle with axle seized to a machine shop that managed to get it loose. It appears that it might have some galling. I cleaned it up real good, put some anti-seize on it and fit it back together. It's tight. I can get it to seat, but I don't think it's supposed to be so tight correct? Also the lower control arm bushing/ball joint is shot and I need to get that pressed out.

I found a flange at Tischer for a good price, but would like advise on where I can get a replacement axle. Also, it seems on the 330i they have a different axle than the rest of the e90 line. The nut on it is the 36mm not the 30mm. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:52 PM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Got the bearing in, now I just need to find the right size adapter to get the ball joint out and replaced.

I worked on the axle with brake cleaner, a wire brush and a small file to clean it up. Much better now. I still think the threads are a little buggered, but think it will work out with a little finesse.
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:18 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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You can try your luck with a Harbor freight universal bushing tool kit.

The OEM and even aftermarket tools are quite expensive. At least $300.

And last I checked, the aftermarket ones only claim to work on the outter bushings. For some reason, they don't work on the inner ones.
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  #16  
Old 08-18-2014, 01:33 PM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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I bought the HF universal, but they don't have a cup that fits the OD of the ball joint. I am going to order new ones and take one to a parts store and see if they have something that might fit.

On the topic of the axle, it is fitting better, but meets some resistance for the last 1/8 inch or so. Is this normal? I would need to hit it with a dead blow to seat it when I am ready to put it back together. I hate the thought of pressing in the flange only to have to pull it all out again if it does not seat properly.

Last edited by ewolr; 08-18-2014 at 01:35 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-18-2014, 02:04 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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When I did my subframe bushings, I made a tool.

I basically had a steel pipe of the needed diameter cut to size.

There are many online metal supplies that will cut to size for you and deliver to your door.

The nut should bring the axle the rest of the way in. There will be some resistance since it's also friction fit.
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  #18  
Old 08-18-2014, 07:14 PM
ewolr ewolr is offline
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Thanks for the tips Fdriller9! I appreciate your help.
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