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E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 roadster and coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 12-06-2004, 11:25 AM
docvb docvb is offline
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Location: Milwaukee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: 99 M-coupe
New member with rear end "squirreliness" problem

Hello All:

I'm new to your board having recently purchased a '99 M-coupe. It's arctic silver with the blue/black interior. Definitely LOVE the M-coupe. Still grin thinking about driving it.

I bought it in the Chicago metro area (there were M-coupes in my hometown Milwaukee area) with 36000 miles. The car was great outside but the interior was less than perfect, particularly the stereo system had been redone but then mostly gutted prior to sale. Still attending to nagging problems with the alarm and the aftermarket stereo.

I have come to notice that the rear end of the car feels very loose, and the a$$ end seems to waggle--leftwards with acceleration and rightward with letting off the throttle. The whole car sways a little and steers right then left. Braking is fine without a swerve, no pulsing or pad-related signs. No sign of obvious shock oil leak or mount failure. The sway bars appear attached. The problem was even a little worse after new P-zero nero M+S install. The rear tires seem to have noticable negative camber at rest but this seems to be the norm for this car (been lurking)--but the old tires did have noticibly worse wear of the inside tread. No signs of the dreaded rear subframe failure or of the torn diff. mounts. The rear end seems loose in fast twisties--but this may be due to unsafe (and enthusiastic) corner speeds. Rear springs look like stock units but the prior owner may have been a boy-racer as there were blue lights in all sockets that I replaced. No retained donut spacers found.

What is the most likely problem? The direction of swerve would suggest the rear R wheel moves forward/backwards with accelleration/decelleration. Is this typical of the failed subframe bushings or of trailing arm bushings failing OR of just a bad shock??? I went through all posts for two years but no one talks of gas-pedal-related swaying. Anyone with ideas or suggestions?

I really love this board. I have had prior BMWs--a '92 E34 525, then a '92 E32 750iL. I have spent the last few years in a '98 M-B SLK 230--but always wanted to go back to BMW (need the speed) and always dreamed of a M-type Bimmer. So here I am.

Thanks in Advance!

DocVB
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2004, 12:18 PM
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Mpire Mpire is offline
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Mein Auto: S54 M Coupe x2, M52 Z3
Its the subframe bushings. Do a search, you will find all kinds of info on it. Ireland Engineering. BMW2002.com
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  #3  
Old 12-06-2004, 01:06 PM
jcorbs jcorbs is offline
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Location: Mt Pleasant, SC
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 50
Mein Auto: 00 MCoupe
I had exactly the same phenomenon with my S/C 00 MC.

The interesting thing was that it was much more obvious with new Michelin Pilot AS than Sport Cups or the Falken Azenis which were on the car when I got it.

The bushings are next on my list to do.

John C
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  #4  
Old 12-08-2004, 08:57 AM
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rlcanon rlcanon is offline
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Location: Austin, TX, y'all
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 204
Mein Auto: '02 M Coupe
Any of the available suspension upgrades will make a big difference, too. As long as the car's apart for the subframe bushings, might as well do performance shocks and springs! Rear shock mounts are also a good idea while you're at it, but there is the extra work of pulling the interior pieces to gain access. Depending on what stereo work you're doing, you might could do both at once.
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  #5  
Old 12-08-2004, 09:06 AM
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Mpire Mpire is offline
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Mein Auto: S54 M Coupe x2, M52 Z3
But we are faced with the rear bushing argument right now. Do we order the tool, or do we torch them?
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2004, 09:17 AM
markd89 markd89 is offline
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Location: Los Angeles
 
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Mein Auto: 96 328iC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpire
But we are faced with the rear bushing argument right now. Do we order the tool, or do we torch them?
I've been through the process with Mike S. One of my bushings did not initially want to come out with the puller due to a misshapement of the bushing carrier.

I immediately thought of using a torch to heat the aluminum center of the bushing and seperate it from the rubber... then it was pointed out to me the proximity of the plastic fuel tank. Maybe not a good idea after all.

I'd suggest you use the tool and I'd go further and suggest you get the more expensive (is it ZDMAK?) one. That thing is no ordinary bushing and it does NOT want to come out.
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2004, 03:39 PM
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QikSilver QikSilver is offline
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Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL
 
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Mein Auto: 01 M roadster
I cut mine out with a hack saw, but you have to remove the subframe completely. Push a hack saw blade thru the bushing (it's not solid rubber) and hook up a hack saw to it. Saw the rubber til the center falls out. Now carefully saw the outer metal part of the bushing, being careful not to cut into the subframe. Once you're thru the metal, the bushing looses it's strength and pretty much just falls out. If you're not concerned about reusing the bushings, they're definately removeable without the tool. And the IE bushings just push in by hand.
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01 M roadster, F: GC/Koni short coilover struts, Eibach, Wilwood front brakes, GC tubular swaybar. R: TC Kline springs, short Bilsteins, IE sub & swingarm bushings & shock mounts, 3.23 gear, Rogue dual-ear cover, Eisenmann 4x83 pipes. MISC: Sport mode, Rogue pulleys, keyless, RG Motorsport intake, OZ Superleggera 18" 3 piece.
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2004, 04:58 PM
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Mpire Mpire is offline
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Qiksilver, I love what I am hearing, PM me your number sometime, I would love to pick your brain a bit.
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