Fuel and heat gauge broken?

Hi I have just bought a 328 e46, 99 modell. (will post images later on )
But when i fill the gastank up it only show 3/4 full, and i cant pump in more fuel.I have pumped in about 55liters when the warning lights starts to show(spare tank). And my heat gage stands on the blue bit, well, it stands just abit over the blue mark.Shouldnt this stand in the middel of the red and blue? Does anyone know what is wrong?

Cheers

Originally Posted by Schumi

Hi I have just bought a 328 e46, 99 modell. (will post images later on )
But when i fill the gastank up it only show 3/4 full, and i cant pump in more fuel.I have pumped in about 55liters when the warning lights starts to show(spare tank). And my heat gage stands on the blue bit, well, it stands just abit over the blue mark.Shouldnt this stand in the middel of the red and blue? Does anyone know what is wrong?

Cheers

The capacity of the fuel tank in E46, as far as I know, is 63 litres, once the fuel warning lights up, it has about 8 to 10 litres left, so I believe your fuel indicator is fine.
The heat gauge usually point to middle when the engine starts, HOWEVER, when under cold condition, such as these days recently, ( I assume both Canada and Norway have about the same temp around this time of the year, around -5.0 to -15.0 C ) it takes couple mintues for the needle to "move" to the centre.

Originally Posted by kenzo

The capacity of the fuel tank in E46, as far as I know, is 63 litres, once the fuel warning lights up, it has about 8 to 10 litres left, so I believe your fuel indicator is fine.
The heat gauge usually point to middle when the engine starts, HOWEVER, when under cold condition, such as these days recently, ( I assume both Canada and Norway have about the same temp around this time of the year, around -5.0 to -15.0 C ) it takes couple mintues for the needle to "move" to the centre.

Yes we have about the same temp here in Norway.
But if the tank holds 63 liters it should show 4/4 (full tank) on the indicator, cause i filled about 52-55 liters when the spare tank ligth started to show. My indicator only goes up to 3/4 and not 4/4.

The heats gauge doesnt move more than just above the blue indicator, and it stays like that for the whole ride, nomather if i drive 10 minutes or 8 hours (like i did this weekend). Can it be that it has set itself in "winter mode"? But if it has done that it shouldnt be the other way around, i mean it should stay cooler at summer time, and not winter time.

I hope my gauges not are brooken. Isnt there a way to test this?, like getting all the needles to move to the max and back? I think i have read that somewere.

I can't explain the fuel gauge, but it looks like you need a new thermostat for the cooling system.

Originally Posted by AG

I can't explain the fuel gauge, but it looks like you need a new thermostat for the cooling system.

Ok, what can happen if the thermo stop working? Is it bad for the engine to drive when it shows just above the blue indicator?

Both gauges (or rather, the stuff they measure) are definitely broken.

Originally Posted by Kaz

Both gauges (or rather, the stuff they measure) are definitely broken.

I hope it's not the gauges, cos you'll need to replace the whole gauge panel it will cost some money.

Originally Posted by Schumi

Ok, what can happen if the thermo stop working? Is it bad for the engine to drive when it shows just above the blue indicator?

If your thermostat is bad, your car will never fully warm up (effectively, your thermostat is stuck open, to max cooling.... this is better than being stuck closed (you would have overheated already) but it's not optimal for the engine)... have you noticed that your car doesn't heat up very well? If your car heats up just fine on a cold day, it's probably your guages instead of your thermostat...

If you search on "test mode" you should be able to find some documentation on how to make your guages "test" themselves... hopefully that will give you some further insight! Good luck!

Thans everyone, i will look into it asap

Originally Posted by Schumi

Thans everyone, i will look into it asap

I found this here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7272

1. Car off
2. Press and hold the mileage reset button
3. Switch to KL R or ignition switch #2
4a. Do nothing and the display will automatically go into sub tests of main menu
0.1. The top part f the display will show "TEST 0.1"
Sub-Test:
12345 1.0 is the VIN
4812 1.1 is the Body #
834762 6_1.2 is the part # for the cluster
010203 1.3 is the coding/diagnosis/bus index
3495 1.4 is the manufacturing date (calander week/year)
04_600 1.5 is the hardware/software # of cluster (HW:04, SW:6.00)
415_06 3_1.6 injection status, number of cylinders, engine factor.

4b. Press and release the reset button immediately (<1 second) to advance to the
next main test menu. Scrolling through the numbered test functions is achieved by
pressing the instrument cluster button. The button is either momentarily pressed
(tapped) < 1 second or pressed and held for > 1 second.

This signals the BC to display the sub-tests of the displayed main test menu or
continue on to the next main test menu.

Go directly to Test 19 to unlock the test features.
TEST 19 Lock/Unlock
Sub-tests: L-On L-OFF
Display changes from "L-ON" to "L-OFF" every second. To unlock test functions
press the cluster button immediately when it changes to "L-OFF". Tests are
automatically locked when exiting test functions.

TEST 2 - Cluster System Test - Acticates the gauge drivers, indicators and LEDs to
confirm function.

TEST 03 - SI Data
Sub-tests:
1500 3.0 = liters
0 3.1 = Periodic inspection days (not applicable in US)

TEST 04 - Momentary Consumption
Sub-tests:
0267 4.0 = 26.7 liters/1000km
0073 4.1 = 7.3 liters per hour

TEST 5 - Distance Gone Consumption
Sub-Tests:
0195 5.0 = 19.5 liters/100km
226 5.1 = momentary distance to go (226km)

TEST 6 - Fuel Level sensor inputs in liters
Sub-Tests:
237415 6.0 = Fuel level averaged
*LH sensor input = 23.7 liters
*RH sensor input = 41.5 liters
0652 6.1 - total tank level averaged = 65.2 liters
0667 1_6.2 = indicated value and tank phase
* 1 = both sensors are ok
* 2 = one sensor fault
* 3 = implausible input

TEST 7 - Temperature and Speed
Sub-tests;
032 7.0 = coolent temp input 32C
245 7.1 = outside temp input 24.5C
5283 7.2 = engine speed 5,283RPM
058 7.3 = vehicle speed 58km/h

TEST 8 - Input value in HEX form
Sub-Test;
XXX 8.0 thru 8.3 = Hex code, instrument cluster inputs.

TEST 9 - Battery Voltage
Sub-Test;
125 9.0 = 12.5v

TEST 10 - Country Coding
Sub-Test;
02 10.0 US 02

TEST 11 - Cluster Code
Sub-test:
000003 11.0 = cluster code

TEST 12 - Not used

TEST 13 - Gong Test
Sub-test;
GONG 13.0 = activate gone by pressing button (gond response is delayed)

TEST 14 Fault memory (not for diagnosis)

TEST 15 thru 18 - Not used

TEST 19 - Lock unlock function

TEST 20 - Avgerage fuel consumption - correction factor.

The factor follows previous systems, with adjustment range of 750 to 1250. The
adjustment method is new for the base cluster. If adjsutment is necessary, enter
into test 20 using the cluster button.

The correction factor number is changed by using the sub-test for the "ones, tens
and hundreds of the factor number. The digits will automatically scroll through 0-9
within each group (ones, tens, hundreds)

Sub-tests;
XXX9 20.0 = press the button when the correct "ones" position is attained.
XX5X 20.1 = Press the button when the correct "tens" position is attained.
12XX 20.2 = Press the button when the correct "hundreds" position is attained.

TEST 21 - Software reset
Sub-test;
Reset 21.0 = reset software.

NOTE: Using the test function of 7.2 will give you a digital tachometer! Becareful
when using this function and driving on the road. The display is low and will divert
attention from the road!