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E46 M3 (2001-2006)
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#26
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#27
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I'm not sure where WOT is, but I can tell you that I've given very serious thought to swapping in a manual pedal.
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__________________
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD Duramax LBZ/Allison 6-speed 2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black 1999 323i KP/GTS2 Alpinweiß 1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan 1989 325is S50B30US Alpinweiß/Black 1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black S50B32 (321hp, ITBs)
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#28
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I can live with it if full throttle is at the bottom of the throw, before kick down as the kick down switch is fairly stiff so I'd normaly never feel it, but if we must go past the switch for WOT, then I'm never getting 100% as I'd rarely push past it. If you find any details please let me know.
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#29
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2) Full throttle occurs when before the kickdown switch. Testing in the early days of SMG showed that at as you hit the kick down switch, the pedal has sent about a 107% signal to the computer, so full thorrle is actually slightly earlier. That said, I have a non-kick down pedal in mine, and I prefer it. And I also NEVER use auto, at least not intentionally, and then only until I realize it and take it out of auto.
__________________
Terry Carraway '95 Alpine M3 LTW '00 Dakar M Roadster '02 Topaz M3 Red/White SRF #4 (Chassis 561)
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#30
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The kickdown switch is just that...it tells the auto mode to downshift. Someone a few years ago tested the pedal and full throttle was right at the kickdown switch, and beyond did nothing except summon a downshift. Lots of people of yore when the "sticky" pedal ran rampant took their smg car into the dealer and the dealer screwed up and installed the pedal with no switch. Amazingly enough, the car still downshifted in auto with no kickdown shift. My guess is that the kickdown switch just made deeper downshifts, meaning a kickdown from 6 to 3 or 5 to 2, whereas without the switch, the car only downshifted 1 gear. Most people preferred not having the button. Myself, I prefer the button since I know when I'm at full throttle, without really slamming my foot to the floor.
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#31
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#32
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Thanks Jim, Pinecone. That sounds good, thanks for the info. I did a bit of research and found the same deal, Dr G had written a white-paper on it also. OK, I'll wait for the car now and drive it for awhile. Since it's new, the kick-down switch is fairly robust, (IE: you must give it a pretty good press to get past it), so I think I'll try to live with it knowing I never have to activate it.
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#33
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I just picked up an 05 M3 with ZCP couple of weeks ago and I have to say its worth the $4k. I test drove regular M3s and spent quite sometime before I made my decision. I dont like/care for the interlagos blue color and you can option the ZCP without it, mine's silver-gray.
First, the alacantara steering wheel is addictive, once you're used to it no other steering wheel feels normal after that. The brakes are phenomenal, they supposedly shaved off a good 12ft off the brake timing. I have to say I prefer the regular M3 wheels however I like the fact that I have a unique looking (stock) M3. The suspension is actually *softer* than the regular M3, which works great for me since I have to drive on some bad roads here and its not annoying. As for the buttons on the wheel, I never cared for them and I think the wheel looks cleaner without the cluttering. Yes, you do lose the cruise control,but I personally don't see the point in cruise control on an M3 but thats MO. If you add up the wheels/tires + steering wheel + brakes + suspension + uniqueness, I think its worth the $4k. If you want more details on the ZCP, MotorTrend mag had a first look article on it this month and I quote their conclusion "its the best $4k you can spend on an M3". BTW, the ZCP is the first production BMW with cross-drilled rotors (I didnt know this). Cheers! |
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#34
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Just one comment. All 05 M3's get the same suspension. Whether that is softer or not is another story. I actually like the regular steering wheel better and I am going to try and retrofit one when mine comes in in June. Cheers.
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#35
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#36
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#37
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Some people have found the Alcantara wheel to wear faster, getting smooth and shiny.
The reason no drilled rotors, is they are NOT a GOOD thing. They are much more problem to cracking.
__________________
Terry Carraway '95 Alpine M3 LTW '00 Dakar M Roadster '02 Topaz M3 Red/White SRF #4 (Chassis 561)
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#38
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#39
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6 spd bun warmers moonroof nav sunshade H/K Comp Pkg power seats xenons assist Cheers.
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#40
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#41
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....there are far better upgrades for my $4k. But who am I to question Motor Trend |
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#42
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![]() Alex |
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#43
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This fact is from the same Motor Trend article that I quoted - I do trust them. |
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#44
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Alex |
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#45
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#46
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#47
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Regardless, I couldn't see you putting the rotors under that much stress(actual race conditions), as to the point of cracking them...The only reasons that they should crack would be 1) too small of diameter or 2) you're coming into corners too hot, and/or you don't know the limits of your brakes, and refuse to conserve them... The drill rotors do perform, but with the right applications..I personally think that both the standard rotor and the drilled rotors, are too small..Probably the best upgrade (mod) as far as breaks on an e46, would be new stainless lines and decent brake fluid...Most probably, you will never have an issue with them..unless your left foot gets bored(SMG) and you let it sleep on the left peddle while driving through puddle of water Oh...and drilled rotors do look good too |
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#49
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#50
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