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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:41 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Lets do a valve clearance check/adjust on my '01 M coupe

Interesting job. I agree with QikSilver. Hard to believe a flat rate guy does this right.
Asked Jay about it. He said this is a job you have to take your time at and stay focused.

Took it apart and cleaned up things tonight.
Will attempt the valve check/adjust tomorrow.
If things go well, will put it back together Sunday or Monday, assuming that I will be finished polishing the spare cylinder head cover I purchased.

Awesome engine.





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  #2  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:44 PM
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  #3  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:45 PM
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:46 PM
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  #5  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:48 PM
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:49 PM
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Old 05-13-2005, 11:51 PM
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Old 05-13-2005, 11:52 PM
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Old 05-13-2005, 11:53 PM
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2005, 11:55 PM
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  #11  
Old 05-14-2005, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar
Interesting job. I agree with QikSilver. Hard to believe a flat rate guy does this right.
Asked Jay about it. He said this is a job you have to take your time at and stay focused.
What dimension are you shooting for; split in the middle or maximum allowable loose/tight?

Considering your mileage (nearly same as mine) I'll be interested in your worksheet results (as found #'s).
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2005, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes
What dimension are you shooting for; split in the middle or maximum allowable loose/tight?

Considering your mileage (nearly same as mine) I'll be interested in your worksheet results (as found #'s).
Will do.
The spec range is .05 mm. The shim increments are .04 mm.
Just measured cylinder one, intake #2. Spec. is .18 > .23 mm. The .15 mm feeler went in, The .20 mm feeler did not. A .007" (.178 mm) feeler went in.
I purchased some 12 inch stainless feelers from McMaster carr. .04 mm, .06 mm, .07 mm (on back order), .08 mm and a .09 mm. The .04 mm with the .15 mm doesn't go in.
So I'm calling this one .18 mm +.
The intakes are a pain to measure. Changing shims on cylinder six will be interesting too.
Have to come up with a way to cover the holes. The rag is just too risky.


Last edited by Ron Stygar; 08-21-2010 at 04:12 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-14-2005, 06:03 PM
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Not that im as good as you guys are but , looking at the "hole of no return" It look like if you made a wedge out of delrin or whatever, like a wedge of cheese you coould set it in there and it would seal snug all around
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  #14  
Old 05-14-2005, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar
Awesome engine.
Oh, yes.


Nice photos. Your engine looks great; you polished those parts, the oil filter cover, vanos covers and throttle vent pipe? (the pipe looks plated)
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  #15  
Old 05-14-2005, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QikSilver
Nice photos. Your engine looks great; you polished those parts, the oil filter cover, vanos covers and throttle vent pipe? (the pipe looks plated)
The oil filter cover, air and fuel rail and exhaust heat shield are plated along with some other things. Vanos is polished but not finished. Cylinder head cover is almost done being polished.

Did you notice any sealant under the profile gasket at the half moons in back and the vanos head intersection. There is none on mine so I guess they no longer do this as mentioned in the TIS instructions.




Last edited by Ron Stygar; 05-14-2005 at 09:24 PM.
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  #16  
Old 05-14-2005, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes
Considering your mileage (nearly same as mine) I'll be interested in your worksheet results (as found #'s).
Randy:
Here is your worksheet. Numbers on the left are the sequence as you rotate the crank CW looking at it from the front. So if you start at cylinder three intake it then goes to cylinder two exhaust and then cylinder six intake etc.

There is a feeler gauge place 24 miles from me. Will try to get them to make some angled feelers in .01 mm increments around the spec values.
Will also look into plugging the holes.


Last edited by Ron Stygar; 05-15-2005 at 12:42 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-14-2005, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar
Randy:
Here is your sheet. Numbers on the left are the sequence as you rotate the crank CW looking at it from the front. So if you start at cylinder three intake it then goes to cylinder two exhaust and then cylinder six intake etc.

There is a feeler gauge place 24 miles from me. Will try to get them to make some angled feelers in .01 mm increments around the spec values.
Will also look in to plugging the holes.

Thanks! Your values are pretty much what I would expect mine to be (based on a couple of M3 guy's comments).

A line mechanic would pronounce that within specs (and rightly so). What's your call on it?

Before BMW made the "new" feeler gauges available, I had bought some 12" Starrett ones. I couldn't bend them without breaking them; I figure it must be done before they are tempered. If your source can provide them, I'll go in with on some if you're willing.

BTW, I thought you had the later worksheet that went by firing order. Seems that with each cylinder at tdc, you wouldn't have to skip around as much. Of course using a worksheet, it's not likely to miss anything. Were you just going on visual (lobes straight up)?
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  #18  
Old 05-14-2005, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar
... Did you notice any sealant under the profile gasket at the half moons in back and the vanos head intersection. There is none on mine so I guess they no longer do this as mentioned in the TIS instructions.
My guy still uses the sealant at the half moons (and any other "joints"). He made that clear when we pulled the S-52 head. BTW, their soucre for the Drei Bond (equivalent) is from their Chrysler dealer (Daimler carryover?). We used black Permatex hi temp silicone.
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1957 Austin-Healey 100/6 Wine Red
1961 McCulloch R1 go-kart Screaming Yellow
1995///M3 Coupe Dakar Yellow Eurosport Twinscrew S/C
1999///M Rdstr Cosmos Black Eurosport Twinscrew S/C
1999///M Coupe Estoril Blue Eurosport Twinscrew S/C
2001///M Rdstr Steel Gray
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  #19  
Old 05-14-2005, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes
A line mechanic would pronounce that within specs (and rightly so). What's your call on it?

Before BMW made the "new" feeler gauges available, I had bought some 12" Starrett ones. I couldn't bend them without breaking them; I figure it must be done before they are tempered. If your source can provide them, I'll go in with on some if you're willing.

BTW, I thought you had the later worksheet that went by firing order. Seems that with each cylinder at tdc, you wouldn't have to skip around as much. Of course using a worksheet, it's not likely to miss anything. Were you just going on visual (lobes straight up)?
I'm happy with the results enough not to mess with it. Intakes are at the tight end and exhausts are in the middle. The problem is not knowing what they were new. So it's hard to say if there was any wear or not. Now that I have a reference, I will know the next time. Based on the intakes being on the tight end, my guess is no wear.

I broke one doing the same. Will see what the gauge place says Monday. Hoping their custom minimum is a few sets.

I have both sheets but grabbed the one I used. I went with the lobes up sequence which would be the minumum turns. Just turned until the next one came up. Intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust etc.
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  #20  
Old 05-14-2005, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes
My guy still uses the sealant at the half moons (and any other "joints"). He made that clear when we pulled the S-52 head. BTW, their soucre for the Drei Bond (equivalent) is from their Chrysler dealer (Daimler carryover?). We used black Permatex hi temp silicone.
Since it wasn't there, I'm leaning on leaving it out which will gaurantee a leak.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ight=drei+bond
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  #21  
Old 05-15-2005, 03:53 AM
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I would be interested in a set of the special feelr guages also.
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  #22  
Old 05-15-2005, 08:20 AM
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Ron, why do posts #2-10 on this thread contain only x's (no text or photos)?
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  #23  
Old 05-15-2005, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorbak
Ron, why do posts #2-10 on this thread contain only x's (no text or photos)?
Just a hunch, but had Ron needed to swap shims in valves 1-6, you'd see detailed pictures and text for each cylinder.

He "reserved" a block of posts to keep all the technical content together. A useful touch when you think about it.
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  #24  
Old 05-15-2005, 11:34 AM
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Count me in for the custom feeler gauges too.
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  #25  
Old 05-15-2005, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar
Did you notice any sealant under the profile gasket at the half moons in back and the vanos head intersection.

No, and I didn't add any. And I've got no leaks.

About the feeler gauges, if you have an angled set that go from say .005" to .015" in .001" increments, that will do the job nicely. Make sure the gauges have the thickness printed on them in inches and mm's. I like to work in inches from past experience, I simply cannot visualize or relate to .19 mm. Also make sure you have a digital vernier caliper that reads both inches and mm's. I picked up 2 of them on ebay for about 10 bucks each. They're Chinese, but dead-on accurate, I checked them against my Brown & Sharpe.

Pretty smart of Ron to "reserve" space in the thread, and smart of Randy to figure out what he was doing.
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