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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Well Pops, I am currently just down the road from you in Groton until next Friday. I have been up here since Aug 1st.. Friday I get to go home.... :)
 
PDF's Missing

Hi
I am charging up the old ThinkPad as they may be on there. If not I can walk you through the problem spots via FaceTime if that works for you. Give me until the morning then I'll let you know if I still have the PDF's. It seems like I had them somewhere, just need to locate them. Hang tight for a day or so.

What happen, no power or slow to move? My problem was a plugged drain hole at the bottom of motor compartment causing the cover around the motor to take a gulp of water every time down. Corroded the motor totally. I have picture of the top out of the car for reassembly purposes so we should be able to get you going.

Where are you located?

Later,
Gene
 
Top Removal PDF's Found

These provide the general guideline without the written instructions. Once again I can walk through the process with FaceTime.

I'll put the reassembly pictures up shortly.

Let me know,
Gene
 

Attachments

Just to take this thread in a different direction.

Having the usual problem of the hood not working I used the info on here, starting with Shipkiller***8217;s great guide and got the hood off.

Yes, the motor/pump was sitting in water. I wanted to avoid having to buy a new/refurbished unit and wanted to see if the old one was kaput or could be recovered. I was encouraged in this that the stub end of the motor spindle still turned easily so felt mechanically OK.

The aluminium coupling housing comes off the pump and the motor part comes off the coupling housing easily, just two Allen screws each. Dismantle the motor from the terminal end; lightly grind off the eight crimps from the body over the end cover. Then prise off the metal end. Getting the plastic moulding with brush holders and the electronic board out wasn***8217;t easy, be careful and patient. The armature then pulls out after pulling the plastic pump/motor coupling off the other end. I found that even when wet the motor armature was still OKish at 100K Ohms winding to shaft / core. Once dried out in front of a fire keeping it no more than hand warm it recovered completely. The field magnets in the body were fine after a clean up. My problem was with the electronics around the brush holders, I think these are just to reduce radio interference. My man at work managed to clean it all up and replace components (a bowl of fruit exchanged hands this time ***8211; healthier after Christmas; both very satisfied with the transaction) so it all went back together as it should be. Plan B was to eliminate the electronics and wire the terminals straight through to the brush holders ***8211; a bit of interference for a few seconds as the hood moved didn***8217;t seem a great penalty if it worked. Test the motor on its own wired straight off a battery, reverse the wires to reverse the rotation.

You can top up the oil through the housing until the reservoir is almost full. I just used engine oil, not the right stuff I know but very close. The plastic oil reservoir can be taken off by removing the Jubilee clip, but the official topping up point is through the central screw on the end. For those who collect O ring sizes, the one between the coupling housing and pump is;
Housing diameter 42.6mm
Spigot diameter 45.9mm
O ring 46mm outside diameter, 2mm chord diameter
And the reservoir is sealed with
Groove diameter 41.3mm
Reservoir diameter 45.9mm
O ring 42mm inside diameter, 3.1mm chord diameter

A wire straight off a battery checked that it worked ***8211; it did in both directions ***8211; sort of. It would move slightly in both directions but didn***8217;t fully extend. I was a little perturbed that it was truly OK but getting it back into the car and fastening up the cables ***8211; it worked fine. Extending the spend aversion approach; I dried out and didn***8217;t renew the plastic housing and foam insulation.

So, if you***8217;re handy enough to get the hood off yourself you***8217;ll probably be handy enough to determine if your motor can be recovered and do it for next to nothing ***8211; have a go, you don***8217;t always have to lash out on new. If you can***8217;t fix it then you have to get a new one anyway but at least you***8217;ve tried.

I hope this is encouaging for the impecunious.
 
Just to take this thread in a different direction.

Having the usual problem of the hood not working I used the info on here, starting with Shipkiller's great guide and got the hood off.

Yes, the motor/pump was sitting in water. I wanted to avoid having to buy a new/refurbished unit and wanted to see if the old one was kaput or could be recovered. I was encouraged in this that the stub end of the motor spindle still turned easily so felt mechanically OK.

The aluminium coupling housing comes off the pump and the motor part comes off the coupling housing easily, just two Allen screws each. Dismantle the motor from the terminal end; lightly grind off the eight crimps from the body over the end cover. Then prise off the metal end. Getting the plastic moulding with brush holders and the electronic board out wasn't easy, be careful and patient. The armature then pulls out after pulling the plastic pump/motor coupling off the other end. I found that even when wet the motor armature was still OKish at 100K Ohms winding to shaft / core. Once dried out in front of a fire keeping it no more than hand warm it recovered completely. The field magnets in the body were fine after a clean up. My problem was with the electronics around the brush holders, I think these are just to reduce radio interference. My man at work managed to clean it all up and replace components (a bowl of fruit exchanged hands this time - healthier after Christmas; both very satisfied with the transaction) so it all went back together as it should be. Plan B was to eliminate the electronics and wire the terminals straight through to the brush holders - a bit of interference for a few seconds as the hood moved didn't seem a great penalty if it worked. Test the motor on its own wired straight off a battery, reverse the wires to reverse the rotation.

You can top up the oil through the housing until the reservoir is almost full. I just used engine oil, not the right stuff I know but very close. The plastic oil reservoir can be taken off by removing the Jubilee clip, but the official topping up point is through the central screw on the end. For those who collect O ring sizes, the one between the coupling housing and pump is;
Housing diameter 42.6mm
Spigot diameter 45.9mm
O ring 46mm outside diameter, 2mm chord diameter
And the reservoir is sealed with
Groove diameter 41.3mm
Reservoir diameter 45.9mm
O ring 42mm inside diameter, 3.1mm chord diameter

A wire straight off a battery checked that it worked - it did in both directions - sort of. It would move slightly in both directions but didn't fully extend. I was a little perturbed that it was truly OK but getting it back into the car and fastening up the cables - it worked fine. Extending the spend aversion approach; I dried out and didn't renew the plastic housing and foam insulation.

So, if you're handy enough to get the hood off yourself you'll probably be handy enough to determine if your motor can be recovered and do it for next to nothing - have a go, you don't always have to lash out on new. If you can't fix it then you have to get a new one anyway but at least you've tried.

I hope this is encouraging for the impecunious.
No problem with this approach if you have the time and are willing to experiment. The only penalty is it doesn't last and you have to pull the top again and this time actually replace the motor. :(
It will be interesting to see how the motor oil substitution works out over time. My concern would be the hydraulic cylinder seals and some of the additives in the oil not playing well together........
 
I just did this, and I can't imagine putting back a motor that failed and got CPR. If it was accessible and you could just change it in a half hour or so OK but this is too much work! The motors a generally around $400 US don't know how that compares to your side of the pond.
 
z4 convertible motor replacement

shipkiller, can you email me this posting with the pictures? i need to replace the convertible top motor and i like how you detailed the procedure, however, my computer will not open the pics..:tsk:
 
Did the top motor replacement

Don't know Shipkiller BUT that guys deserves a metal for his how to on the removal and replacement of the top
I followed his guide and it worked PERFECTLY
THANKS SHIPKILLER
I had a watersoaked motor and also a leaking cylinder
am ready to reinstalled the top

Now I have a couple of questions
old post talk of the leads on the motor are backwards Is this true for motors purchased today
I was planning on hooking it up the same way as the old one----will this be backwards

I lost a lot of fluid with the leaking cylinder
The new motor comes with fluid---Do I need to add additional fluid or just hook it up

Is it necessary to build the wooden frame and run the top up and down outside of the car

Thanks to ANYONE who can help
Lawrence in Hurst outside of Fort Worth Texas
 
Hi Lawrence,

I too would vote a medal for Shipkiller and his guide.

I went through the fix a couple of months back. As in the thread above I just dried out and re-used my motor without having to disconnect the hydraulics (it's still working despite the nay-sayers). I read the threads about reversing the pipe connections or the two cables but because I wasn't disconnecting I didn't have to think about it or use it. However I would say that the power cables are accessible to be reversed inside the body once the hoods' back on. Just trace the cables back from the hood through the loom before you refit it so you know which ones they are and their colours. A cut and resplice the other way round is easier than taking the whole thing out again.

On the testing part; not having renewed my motor, while it spun OK when disconnected from the pump I wanted to check it against the load of lifting the hood. I didn't build a test frame, the hood assembly was laid over a table (strange how garages accumulate redundant furniture?). I connected directly to a battery standing on the floor. I was a little purturbed that while everything kicked and made an effort to move in both directions - it didn't fully extend. The cylinders don't extend very far to give the full movement of the hood. I did refit it after this and it worked fine. If you've lost some oil I would suggest you fill the reservoir to almost completely full with just a small air bubble, the fill point is the screw in the centre of the plastic bowl. You'll only need an egg cup amount of oil, I used engine oil rather than being stiffed getting too much of the 'right' stuff. Any decent 30ish grade oil will work and the seals will be fine. Try and test your hood upside down, while still keeping the oil reservoir above the pump, so any air can find its way back up to the reservoir - and you can top up before final installation.

I did clear the blocked drains while it was out but now watching it standing in the rain I wish I had drilled some extra holes to help drainage.

I hope it works for you.

Dave (in UK!)
 
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