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* Total 0W30
* Total 0W30
* Liqui-Moly 5W30
* Liqui-Moly 5W30
=====BMW - LL98=====
=====BMW - LL98=====
Revision as of 13:06, 5 July 2012
About this Wiki
The E39 Wiki should be used as a tool to help all E39 owners. The greatest feature of the Wiki is that anyone with an account on Bimmerfest has the ability to edit it. See something incorrect or notice something missing (there's a lot missing!)? Simply click on the edit link to the right of any section. Please respect the contributions made by other members and PLEASE don't sabotage this page.
The E46 Wiki has a LOT of information, and the I6 engines are largely shared with the E39. If the answer to your question is not here, look over there.
The E39 Best Links wiki post is under development here BMW_E39_bestlinks
Each BMW body style is assigned a two digit number preceded by "E". The "E" stands for "Entwicklung", the German word for development. The BMW E39 automobile platform was the basis for BMW 5 Series between 1995 to 2004. It was the successor of the BMW E34 in 1995, and was phased-out by the E60 platform in 2004. Sales to Germany and the United Kingdom began in 1995, and by 1996 sales to the remaining entities of Europe and the rest of the world had commenced. A mid-life update appeared in 2001, featuring minute detail changes. At launch, the base model was the 520i, which developed 112 kilowatts (150 hp) in the pre-update models, and 126 kilowatts (170 hp) in later models. An M5 variant was introduced in 1998, with a 5.0 litre S62 V8 engine. All models but the M5 were available as either a sedan (car) or a Station wagon|touring wagon.
Introduced in Europe in 1995, the complete vehicle redesign draws heavily from the E38 7 Series in body construction and electronic technology. The mid-level BMW sedan showed evolutionary styling changes rather than a dramatic redesign. Initially offered only as a sedan, the wheelbase grew by 68 millimetres (2.7 in) and overall length by 55 millimetres (2.2 in) over the E34. In the US, the new 5 Series came in two forms; the 528i and 540i. The 528i is equipped with the 2.8 litre M52 in-line six carried over from the 1996 E36 328i and the 540i equipped with the 4.4 litre M62 V8. Both engines were upgraded over the prior 5 Series generation. The 2.8 litre dual overhead camshaft six-cylinder engine made 141 kilowatts (190 hp), versus 210 kilowatts (282 hp) for the 4.4 litre dual overhead camshaft, all-aluminum V8. A ZF five-speed manual transmission without overdrive was standard on the 528i, with an optional A4S 310 R four-speed automatic transmission. The 540i, in contrast, could have either a Getrag six-speed manual or a new five-speed A5S 560Z automatic transmission with adaptive transmission control. Standard equipment on both models included dual front and side airbags, Anti-lock braking system, traction control system, power steering, and air conditioning.
The E39 is the body style for the following models:
|Model||Engine||Displacement (cc)||Bore/Stroke (mm)||Comp. Ratio||Fuel System||Power (kW/bhp)||Torque (Nm/ft-lb)||0-62mph man||0-62mph auto||Produced||Where Sold (If not in all markets)|
|520i||I-6 24V||1991||80/66||1:11.0||Multiport Fuel Injection||110/150 @6250RPM||190/140 @3500RPM||10.2sec||11.5sec||1996-2000||Non-US|
|520i||I-6 24V||2171||80/72||1:10.7||Multiport Fuel Injection||125/168 @6100RPM||210/150 @3500RPM||9.1sec||10.2sec||2000-2003||Non-US|
|523i||I-6 24V||2496||84/75||1:10.5||Multiport Fuel Injection||125/168 @5500RPM||245/181 @3500RPM||8.5sec||9.6sec||1995-2000||Non-US|
|525i||I-6 24V||2494||84/75||1:10.5||Multiport Fuel Injection||141/189 @6000RPM||245/181 @3500RPM||8.1sec||8.9sec||2000-2003|
|528i||I-6 24V||2793||84/84||1:10.2||Multiport Fuel Injection||14w/190 @5500RPM||280/210 @3500RPM||7.5sec||8.8sec||1995-2000|
|530i||I-6 24V||2979||84/89.6||1:10.2||Multiport Fuel Injection||170/228 @5900RPM||300/220 @3500RPM||7.1sec||7.6sec||2000-2003|
|535i||V8 32V||3498||84/78.9||1:10||Multiport Fuel Injection||180/241 @5800RPM||345/254 @3500RPM||6.9sec||7.6||1996-2003||Non-US|
|540i||V8 32V||4398||92/82.7||1:10||Multiport Fuel Injection||210/282 @5400RPM||440/320 @3600RPM||6.2sec||6.4||1996-2003|
|M5||V8 32V||4941||94/89||1:11||Multiport Fuel Injection||294/394 @6600RPM||500/370 @3800RPM||5.3sec||N/A||1998-2003|
|520d||I-4 16V||1951||88/84||1:19||Common rail turbodiesel||100/134 @4000||280/210 @1750RPM||10.6sec||N/A||2000-2003||Some European countries|
|525d||I-6 24V||2497||80/82.8||1:17.5||Common rail turbodiesel||120/161 @4000||350/260 @2000RPM||8.9sec||9.1||2000-2003||Some European countries|
|525td||I-6 12V||2498||80/82.8||1:22.0||Indirect injection turbodiesel||185/114 @4800||230/170 @1900RPM||11.9sec||N/A||1997-2000||Europe|
|525tds||I-6 12V||2497||80/82.8||1:22.0||Indirect injection turbodiesel||105/141 @4000||280/210 @2200RPM||10.4sec||11.0||1996-2000||Europe|
|530d||I-6 24V||2926||84/88||1:18.0||Common rail turbodiesel||135/181 @4000||390/290 @1750RPM||8.0sec||8.4||1998-2000||Europe|
|530d||I-6 24V||2926||84/88||1:18.0||Common rail turbodiesel||142/193 @4000||410/302 @1750RPM||7.8sec||8.0||2000-2003||Europe|
Vehicle Identification Number. Gives information of model, engine, gearbox, production year/month and much more.  VIN firstname.lastname@example.org
- P - Protection -- Enhanced security vehicle fitted with bullet-resistant glass with polycarbonate skins (to retain glass splinters in the event of damage from projectiles), aramid armor in the doors and bulkheads as well as Michelin run-flat tires that can take a round and still keep the car on the road. Rear windows are fixed.
- d - Diesel. Not applicable to North American E39s
- e – eta (fuel efficient engines w/lots of low torque vs the higher reving more HP "i" engines used during the same time period or model production run) Not applicable to the E39
- A - Automatic
- t - Touring (hatchback)
- s – Sport. Not applicable to the E39
- i – injection. Applies to virtually all BMWs
- c/C – Convertible or Coupe. Not applicable to the E39
- x – all-wheel drive. See X-Drive Not applicable to the E39
|S403A||Glass Roof, electric|
Random alarm activation can usually be attributed to one of the following:
- Failing battery (system detects low voltage as someone tampering with the power supply
- Hood switch malfunctions, indicating to the alarm that the hood has been opened
Headlights (High Beams)
Earlier models have a version of the LCM that has MOSFETs that fail, causing one or more lights to be unresponsive to the high beam switch, headlight switch, and even ignition, possibly causing rundown of the battery.
Intermittent or regular battery drain can be due to many issues. First, have the battery tested to ensure that it is not simply that the battery is too old. Next, perform a battery drain test to locate the source of the drain. Commonly, the FSU is broken, the car is not going into sleep mode (check if light indicating gear on shift lever is out after 20 min without opening doors), or the CD changer is continuing to cycle disks after the car is turned off. DICE modules can also cause problems
It has been claimed that the seals in the VANOS unit on I6 engines fail within 20,000 miles, due to incorrect materials used in the seals. This, according to Beisan Systems, who sells replacement seals, causes rough idle, stalling, and loss of power.
BMW does not provide the VANOS seals separately. It sells rebuilt VANOS units for ~$500. New rebuilt VANOS units are supplied with the same o-rings and have been found to significantly fail in 20k miles (32k kilometers), according to Beisan Systems, who is the sole marketer and manufacturer of replacement VANOS seals.
Some discussion surrounding the effectiveness of replacing these seals has taken place on the forums. It appears that many of the parts replaced at the same time as the seals could also be the cause of various issues. Responsible diagnosis of these parts is key to determining the correct solution.
Beisan Systems has performed dynamometer and fuel consumption tests, which were inconsistent. Many owners have commented that cold idle has improved.
- Official VANOS discussion board
- Beisan Systems DIY guide
- Bluebee's summary of information Feb 2010
- Background information on creation of Beisan Systems
- CN90's DIY of VANOS, CCV, ICV, and Alternator Duct Cleaning
- Hooray!'s discussion of his VANOS project
- Bluebee's thread regarding how exactly VANOS functions
- Discussion of the diagnostic benefits of disconnecting the VANOS control
- coolcalicash's VANOS solenoid socket alternative post
- Bluebee's comprehensive list of recommended tools and parts
- DrVanos's Stage 1 installation instructions
The E39 cooling and belt drive system is comprised largely of plastic. These parts will begin failing around 80-100k miles, and , it is much better to do an ENTIRE Cooling system overhaul. A leak or minor overheating the beginning of a series of problems. Other items (like fan clutch, fan blade, radiator) will soon follow. It makes perfect sense to do the whole system. It saves you money and headache down the road.
Under no circumstances should you ever operate the vehicle if the temperature gauge goes past the 12 o'clock mark! Stop immediately and get a tow, unless you do not object to replacing your engine (or car).
Zionsville on map-controlled thermostats
E39 (on M52TU, M54, M62 engines) has a map-controlled thermostat In conventional cooling systems a wax element (this is the mechanical thermostat) keeps the coolant temperature close to about 90 °C. This control method ensures that the motor does not overheat even under extreme conditions, such as very high vehicle speeds, very high ambient temperatures and heavy loads. However, in normal conditions a petrol engine can generally be operated at 110 °C without danger. This high temperature improves tribological conditions in the motor, which in turn reduce friction losses, fuel consumption and exhaust emissions. An electronic map-controlled thermostat can satisfy such variable requirements, because it can adapt the coolant temperature to the motor's operating conditions within broader limits. With the motor at partial load it maintains the coolant temperature at a consistently high level; at full load, high engine speeds or high outside temperatures it reduces the temperature and thus ensures performance characteristics which match these conditions.
So, with a mechanical thermostat, when the coolant reaches a certain temperature, it opens. The map-controlled thermostat is "variable" based on input from the engine computer. It runs the engines hot (which is why the radiators also fail) for emissions. However, when the electronic thermostat fails, it continues to run the engines hot with no way of opening up "at full load, high engine speeds or high outside temperatures." This might be satisfactory if the driver were alerted to the fact that the thermostat had failed. A trouble code is set in the engine computer, which can be read with a diagnostic tool, but nothing appears on the instrument cluster. So, a failed thermostat can take the engine with it.
- Many people have trouble removing the Fan Clutch Nut. Spray the nut with PB Blaster daily for two-three days before starting.
- Replacing bleeder screws with brass is helpful, but it is very important to be extremely light when torquing them or they will strip the threads in the hose.
- Bleeding the cooling system can be fairly difficult; follow the procedure carefully and you will have less trouble. Symptoms include sporadic rises in temperature or loss of cabin heat.
- There is no coolant level sensor if you do not have a 20-character text display (high OBC cluster) in your instrument cluster. Check it regularly! Sporadic rises in temperature or loss of cabin heat indicates either air in the system or low coolant.
- Use water based lubricant (local sex shop) on any o-rings in the cooling system.
- Fan clutch nut installation with rawhide (If you have a friend, get them to hold the fan above the car and tighten from underneath. That's what I didBmwn00b13-109765)
- Non-destructive hose removal
- Coolant Temperature Sensor o-ring replacement
Cooling system DIYs
Modifying the cooling system
- BlackBMWs M62 (V8)
- William M62 (V8), Zionsville Heavy Duty system (Roadfly)
- ohmess M62 (V8) Heavy Duty system (BimmerFest)
Best Cooling System Threads
- Pictorial look at typical E39 cooling system failure modes (Bluebee)
- Pictoral look at severely overheated and calcified M54
- Cooling system recommended parts list
- Coolants recommended by BMW and users
- Bleeding the cooling system, Bentley Procedure, I6
- Bleeding the cooling system, CN90 Procedure, I6
- E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (Besian)
- E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (M54)
- Removal instructions for the alternator & drive belt system of a 2002 525i
- Removal instructions for the fan shroud of a 2002 525i
- Tools necessary for a cooling system overhaul
- Expansion tank floating mechanical coolant level sensor height
- High instrument cluster check of the cooling system temperature (KTMP)
- Low instrument cluster check of the cooling system temperature (KTMP)
- Cooling system date stickers
- Cooling system date stickers (Bluebee)
- What brand of waterpump to buy
- Fan clutch failure modes
- Fixing a head gasket coolant leak
- What is the temperature of the coolant & when the thermostat opens under normal conditions
- Understanding the AUC automatic air recirculation (aka stink) sensor
Instrument Cluster and MID Pixels
The instrument cluster pixels and MID pixels fail line by line due to a poorly designed press-fit pink connection tape which lifts up over time. Failure will most likely not occur on both parts at the same time, though it's possible.
Cluster informational threads
MID information threads
- BMWNA refusing MID out-of-warranty goodwill repairs
- Dissecting a MID for pixel repair
- eBay repair discussion
- E38 MID repair DIY
- MID Removal instructions (DICE install—cn90
- MID Removal instructions (DICE iPod Integration—Bluebee)
- Removal instructions (DIY DICE Silverline radio mount - business CD, non DSP, non Nav, non changer, no tape—Bluebee)
- Detailed photograph of MID removal screw
- Car Solutions Dude MID Removal
- MID Removal instructions (Hualigan DIY install—doru
Poorly designed or fabricated brittle PBT plastic headlight adjusters crumble over time causing the lights to point downward.
- Options available to repair adjusters
- DIY PDFs
- EACTuning.com's aluminium headlight adjusters
- EACTuning's plastic headlights for older headlights
- Images of symptoms (bad headlight aim
- Aiming headlights
- Odometergears.com E39 adjusters
- Xenon adjusters
- Odometer gears FAQ 1
- Odometergears.com FAQ 2
- M5 (all E39 applicable) headlamp surgery
- Cutting open headlights
- Locating adjuster knob
- [https//bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/6967901-1.html Make your own adjusters]
ABS Control Unit
Poorly fabricated resistance-welded steel power wires in the Bosch 5.x ABS control module often lift off their gold contact because of BMW's decision to install the ABS control module close to the heat and vibration of the engine to cut costs. The first indication to the user is often the so-called "trifecta" of yellow BRAKE, DSC, and ABS lights lit on the cluster.
- Comprehensive diagnostics—Bluebee <—The place to start!
- Removing snot like protective coating from ABS circuit board, what breaks on the circuit board
- BMWDriver.org comment
- Diagnostics post—540iman
- Repair info from Volvo forum
Interior Fan Control
Poorly designed or fabricated fan-control final stage unit (aka final stage resistor) (FSU/FSR) modules go haywire due to poor heat-sink design causing erratic behavior of the fan, often described as "my fan has a mind of its own". Symptoms include fan unresponsive to controls, does not turn off when car turns off, or random dead battery (due to fan running all night).
- Replacing FSU (540i6.com)
- Replacing the FSU (Bluebee)
- Replacing the FSU (Starless)
- Repairing the FSU (Bluebee)
- Repairing the FSU (kraft)
- Wiring diagram from the Bentley Service Manual
- Measuring Battery Drain
- Diagnosing intermittent battery drain
- Monthly battery drain
Improper adhesive was used on rear door vapor barrier seals which often allow rain water to fill the rear footwell. (note however that more typically the moonroof drain in the front right corner fails and allows water to run into the roof pillar instead of into the drain tube in the pillar and collect in the front and or rear footwells).
- Door Vapor Barrier Repair DIY
- Water in the foam sound insulation
- Ideal adhesive for repair
- Leaky door repair DIY
- cn90 quick DIY
- Lepage PL Acousti-Seal Vapor Barrier Sealant Not sure if this is a valid option. Maintains tackiness eternally, service temp range -40°C to 120°CBmwn00b13-109765
V8 Valley Pan Gaskets
The V8 valley pan gaskets often leak coolant. Bad design for V8 valley pan gaskets that allow coolant to "disappear" - need to correct by using the newer designed valley pan gasket. When it leaks (and it will on ALL M62 engines built prior to 2003), the coolant runs through weep holes in the back of the engine, down through the bell housing area and drips off the bottom of the bell. Pretty sure there is nothing in the bell housing that can leak coolant. Take the engine cover off and look at the back of the engine on the top. If you see a pool of blue/green goo, that's the valley pan leaking. If you pay for this repair it's a few hundred in parts and about $1000 or more in labor.
Poor choice of heat labile rubber windshield & back window molding flakes and crumbles. The seal is for noise and protection of the edge of the windshield, but does not appreciably affect air or water penetration.
Poorly designed plastic jack pads (aka "Support Lifting Platform", often fall off the underside of the frame due to poor latch design causing jack failures & wind noise. The replacement jack pads are designed not to fall off. The standard BMW "widow maker" jack does not work properly or remotely safely without the jack pads
Many users report air conditioning odors (often described as "gym sock smell") emanating from the air conditioning ducts. While the experience is common, the cause is poorly understood, most ascertaining it's due to organisms growing in moist hard-to-reach recesses in the circulation system. Some report clearing cabin-filter housing drain hoses and undercarriage drain hoses leads to a cure; others promote periodic spraying of disinfectant; while others modify their habits prior to shutting off the vehicle.
BMW Roundel Paint
Poorly painted BMW hood & trunk emblem (badge, logo, decal, hood ornament) roundels wash away, over time, necessitating replacement.
Trunk Harness Loom
An amazingly poorly designed trunk loom wiring harness is almost certain to chafe causing myriads of light and fuse blowing and locking problems.
Shocks and Struts
On BMW the rear is a shock, the front is a strut. The difference is, a "shock" is just a shock. A strut on the other hand, is a shock that also performs as part of the suspension geometry. Meaning, the strut also holds the wheel in place and creates the up/down axis for the wheel movement.
Amazingly difficult to diagnose premature failure of the OEM Sachs front struts interacting with the ABS system while braking on bumps causes violent shudder wholly unlike normal ABS pulsation.
- 1998 BMW 528i Front Suspension Overhaul
- Violent Shudder when braking after hitting bumps Diagnosis
- Diagnosing bad, selecting replacement, and installing new front struts
- Matwiz's theory for testing bad struts
- Bushing vs Strut replacement
- ABS Malfunction thread
Poorly designed rear-window regulators often fail.
- Front window regulator assembly instructions
- Front window regulator replacement DIY
- Replacing rear window regulator DIY
- Passenger front regulator replacement DIY
- Regulator and motor replacement DIY
- Rear window regulator repair kit up to 6/99
Ambient Temperature Sensor
Low mounted ambient temperature sensors are often ripped off on a parking curbs affecting HVAC function and outside temperature indications of -40°F (-40°C).
Poorly designed front and rear cupholders practically beg for a replacement strategy.
The power steering reservoir is often constantly wet due to a worn o-ring in the power steering reservoir cap. Usually observed by slow dropping of the fluid level and an impossible-to-keep-clean reservoir.
- Replacing o-rings
- Replacing PS fluid Note that the transmission fluid is NOT filled here, but the reservoir MUST be filled with DEXRON automatic transmission fluid
In addition, the OEM power steering hose clamps are practically guaranteed to leak fluid over the alternator, often said to cause premature alternator failure. Usually observed by more rapid (though still slow) dropping of fluid, and wet hoses and possibly dripping onto alternator.
- Replacing power steering lines E46 specific but applicable to E39
- CN90's repair of hoses Part of the cooling system overhaul.
The alternator prematurely fails, often ascribed to being directly under the power steering hose leak or to inadequate air flow due to debris clogging the ducting.
- Rebuilding the Bosch Alternator—cn90's '98 528
- New vs rebuilt alternator; cost and quality—cn90
- Protecting the intake for alternator ducting—cn90 and source DIY link for VANOS, CCV, ICV, and alternator air duct cleaning
The highly varnished natural wood trim spontaneously cracks on almost every E39, most likely due to temperature and humidity variations.
The plastic trim around the dashboard air vents often crack at the corners.
Whenever working with the seats or anything connected to the airbag system, ALWAYS ensure the battery has been disconnected for 20-30 minutes, otherwise the airbag light will illuminate.
Switch covers that don't protect switches for seat positioning resulting in steering wheel position and driver's seat position failure.
- Tips and suggestions for replacing driver seat adjustment control panel
- Power seat switches unresponsive, solution
- Disabling convenience exit feature
- Steering wheel not adjustable
- Repost of Bluebee's DIY
- Seat switch REPAIR DIY
- Steering wheel motor information
- Odd steering wheel telescoping behaviour (telescopes in when brakes applied)
Seat cables often fall out causing the seat to twist.
- 2002 530 DIY repair
- E32 and E34 twisted seat repair
- Rocking or loose seats
- Clicking seat rails
- E38 Active Seat retrofit Includes seat removal instructions
- Troubleshooting SAS and replacing Fuse 107 on 1998 528 Includes seat removal instructions
- E39 twisted seat repair
- Repair tips
- Carsoft resets accidental airbag lights
Windshield Washer Reservoir Pump
The windshield reservoirs prone to leaking due to an ill-fitting pump o-ring gasket.
The crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm often tears, freezes, &/or clogs, raising pressures, often causing the oil filter housing to leak, frequently blowing the VCG (valve cover gasket) ; and sometimes the head gasket ; often causing vacuum leaks   , necessitating CCV replacement:
- CCV replacement DIY on an M54—Fudman
- CCV replacement info on an M54—Jason5driver
- VANOS, CCV, ICV, Alternator Air Duct DIY M52—cn90
- CCV replacement DIY on M52—Jfive96
- CCV replacement DIY on M52—combination cn90, Jfive96
- CCV replacement DIY on M52TU—aioros
- CCV replacement DIY on M52TU—Graham E39 528i
- CCV replacement DIY on M62
- CCV replacement DIY on M62—cerber
The secondary air pump freezes or the diverter valve clogs, taking out the secondary air system (SAS).
- SAS air valve failure within one year—cn90
- Troubleshooting SAS/SAP and replacing fuse #107 DIY—cn90
- Diverter valve/SAS valve failure
- SAS codes
- Three SAP replacements in four years—fudman
- Loud SAP diagnosis
- BMW TIS regarding M62 Secondary Air Diagnostics and Air Delivery Passage Cleaning
The ignition switch fails causing weird but well characterized electrical problems usually related to the passenger sunvisor light (of all things).
- Ignition switch rebuild DIY—cal45fan
- Signs of a failing ignition switch—QSilver7
- Ignition switch removal and replacement—DavidC
- Ignition switch replacement—kowached
- Ignition switch, key, EWS information—QSilver7
- Ignition switch symptoms
- Intermittent warning lights caused by ignition switch
- EWS system manual
The mass air flow sensor (MAF) and idle control valve (ICV) require periodic cleaning.
- Inspection II—Changing power steering fluid and cleaning MAF—KrisL
- Removing and cleaning MAF sensor housing on I6 E39—Bluebee
- M62 ICV cleaning DIY
- M62TU and M54B25 MAF removal and cleaning DIY
Thrust Arm Bushings
Poorly designed fluid-filled thrust arm bushings crack and tear causing vibrations at speed.
Related bestlinks threads:(1) (2) (3) (4)
The DISA valve flap breaks, sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold.
- M54B30 spark plug and DISA DIY video—Solidjake
- Repair DISA rattle DIY—ventsyv
- DISA and CCV replacement—Szee1
- DISA, ICV, CCV DIY—Lbert
- DISA replaced, disaster averted—dakarm
A nearly useless console design just begs to be replaced.
- Top 10 E39 Euro armrest links
- What's the point of the sliding console?
- Removing the interior trim, accessing console cover
Coding Car Functions
This isn't so much a problem as much as it is a basic complaint that it needlessly takes about $100 at the dealer to modify basic user settings, e.g., automatic door-lock settings.
- Software and hardware to access car functions
- Auto lock/unlock doors
- Auto locking doors function relies on ABS
- Software/hardware to access car coding
Here's the real answers to what seem to be the FAQ's.
Rotor sizes (in mm)
Minimum Acceptable Thickness for reuse
Maximum Allowable Runout
- Is it allowed to machine (turn) BMW rotors?
- Yes, there is an actual BMW procedure in the TIS describing how to machine the rotors. You can machine them down to the minimum thickness if you need to. You do however, need to ensure that both sides are evenly machined and the appropiate runout and surface finish specifications are maintained.
- Should you machine your BMW rotors?
- Generally speaking, BMW rotors are cheap enough where it does not make economic sense to turn them. Plus, replacing them guarantees you will have a rotor with the correct runout and surface finish criteria.
- When do you have to replace your rotors?
- When they are below the specified minimum thickness.
- What if my rotors are at, but not below the minimum thickness?
- Then you can use them again, but only for one more set of pads, assuming you are using OEM pads or pads with equal or less rotor wear than the OEM pads.
- What's the theory behind the minimum thickness criteria?
- When BMW selected the pads and designed the rotor thickness, it was not done randomly. The expected range of rotor and pad wear is known and designed on purpose.
- Your pads have a wear sensor which goes off when you have 3mm or less pad material. It is a safe assumption that the pad wear sensor is designed to go off before you wear your rotors down so thin that they are hazardous. So the deduction from this is that the wear rate of rotors with OEM pads is 1.6mm or less per set of pads. Which in turn means the absolute safety limit of rotor thickness is probably about 18.8mm front and 15.8mm rear (for 323/325/328 - add 3mm for 330). To put it another way, the BMW rotors and pads are designed in such a way that if you reuse the rotors at minimum thickness, your pad wear sensor will go off before your rotors get too thin.
- So do should I replace the rotors everytime I replace the pads?
- Assuming they are at or above the minimum thickness for reuse and are otherwise within spec, it's up to you to strike the best balance of tradeoffs between performance and money. It is an absolute certainty that you will get better braking performance out of new rotors than reused rotors. But depending upon the condition of the rotors, the difference in performance may be slight.
- The one thing you do NOT want to do however, is reuse rotors with a non-OEM brake pad of unknown wear rate. By doing so, you run a very serious risk of having a higher rotor wear rate than was intended by design. As a result, your rotors may become dangerously thin and even fail before the pad wear sensor goes off.
There is much discussion about what fluids should be put into a BMW. Please do not edit this list unless you are certain that something is incorrect! This doesn't mean "My friend Jack is an engineer at such and such and says that Synthetic is useless."
New BMWs (After 1997) require synthetic. As far as weight, only certain production dates of M3's and M5's require the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.
The Factory BMW Synth 5w-30 is a version of Castrol TXT Softect sold overseas. A few important things about the BMW oil a) it is a Group III hydrocracked oil which cannot be called synthetic in Europe, b) it is a heavy 30 weight (30 weight can run from 9.3-12.5cst@100c, the BMW oil is about 12.2cst), c) it is a ACEA A3 oil which means that it is approved for longer change intervals and has a HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) measured at 150c of greater than 3.5.
In the US, the only Group IV PAO Synthetics that are available are 1) Mobil 1, 2) Amsoil (but not the Xl-7500), 3) Royal Purple, and 4) German Castrol 0w-30 (it has the red label and says on the back, "Made in Germany"). Redline is a Group V PolyEster based oil. All other Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline "synthetics" are a Group III hydrocracked oil. It is debated how much better Group IV base oils are than group III, but generally they are considered better.
When looking for oil for any BMW that does not require Castrol TWS 10w-60, you want to purchase an oil that has either/both of the following ratings, a) ACEA A3, or b) BMW LL-98 or LL-01.
Note that Mobil 1 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are NOT ACEA A3 or BMW LL approved oils. This is because they all are thin 30 weight oils (approximately 9.8-10 CST@ 100c) and have HTHS of approximately 3.1. German Castrol 0w-30 and Mobil 1 0w-40 are A3 rated and BMW LL-01 approved. For 99% of climates and users 0w-30, 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the appropriate grade. There are some 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils (like the BMW 5w-30 and German Castrol 0w-30) that are forumlated on the heavier end of the 30 weight scale and are accordingly rated A3. These oils will work well also. LOOK FOR THAT ACEA A3 rating. If the oil doesn't have it, pass on it.
Some people seem confused about how oil thickness is measured. The first number (0W, 5w, 10w, 15w, etc) is a measurement of how thick the oil is at tempuratures of -35c- -20c (depends on the grade). The lower this first number the thinner the oil is at LOW tempuratures. The second number (30, 40, 50) refers to oil thickness at 100c (operating tempurature). 30 weight can be from 9.3-12.5 cst, 40 weight from 12.6-16.2 cst, 50 weight from 16.3-22cst (approximate). So you can have two oils, one called a 5w-30 (i.e. bmw oil) another 0w-40 (Mobil 1) that are very similar thicknesses at operating tempurature. Compare this to Mobil 1 Xw-30 which is close to a 20 weight oil at 100c, and German Castrol 0w-30 which is close to a 40 weight oil at 100c. For more information here is a link with exact numbers
BMW's recommended interval of 12,000-15,000 miles is too long. Used oil analysis has shown the BMW oil is generally depleted at 10,000 miles. Running it longer results in excess wear. It is highly recommended that you change your oil once between each BMW recommended interval (approx 7000-7500 miles). If you want to run your oil the BMW recommended interval, I would suggest that you use German Castrol 0w-30, Mobil 1 0w-40, or Amsoil 5w-40 and change the oil filter at 7500 miles. I would encourage a full oil change at 7500 if you want your engine to last.
If you want to spend a few hours learning about oil, go to bobistheoilguy.com but its like a different language.... so which one do you suggest if you were going to change your oil?
Unless you have an M3 or M5, in the following order:
1) German Castrol Syntec 0w-30, 2) Mobil 1 0w-40, and 3) BMW 5w-30
If you can't find the German Castrol 0w-40 (sold only in 1L bottles), the Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil. Can't find either of these, then go to your dealer and get the BMW 5w-30.
The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil, widely available (Walmart, Checker, Kragen, Autozone), and moderately priced. It is factory fill in Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and Aston Martin.
Use of BMW-LL04 oils in the E39 is not recommended. LL04 does not supersede LL01; it is for certain engines (primarily Diesels)
BMW - LL01
- Mobil 1 0-40
- Castrol Snytec 0-30 European
- Pentospeed 0W30
- Total 0W30
- Liqui-Moly 5W30
- Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40
BMW - LL98
- Liqui-Moly 5W40
- Pentohigh 5W30
- Total 5W40
BMW - Motorsport
- Total 10W50
- Castrol TWS 10W60
Automatic Transmission Fluid
ESSO LT71141 is a bit expensive ($18+/qt) so I considered using ATF alternatives. My previous research indicated that Valvoline Maxlife ATF was an acceptable alternative to ESSO LT71141. Several forum members had used it with success. When I checked on the Valvoline website, their spec sheet no longer recommends use in BMWs. A little more checking (a comparison between the old spec sheet and their current one) revealed that Maxlife has been changed. Further research into ATF alternatives identified Mobil 1 synthetic as an acceptable substitute. However, their current spec sheet does not identify Mobil 1 as an alternative for ESSO LT71141. Royal Purple is another ATF that has been mentioned as an alternative to ESSO but there is less feedback on its use.
Castrol Multivehicle ATF is currently LT71141 compatible (as of Sep 2011) and is the low cost ($6/qt) alternative to ESSO LT 71141 ATF.
Manual Transmission Fluid
There are several different spesifications to the manual gearboxes. The choice of oil is as follows: Orange sticker on the side of the gearbox, near filler plug with "ATF Oil" should use Transmax Dex III Multivehicle / ATF Dex II Multivehicle. Green sticker "Special Oil" should use Casio Transmax Z. Yellow sticker with "MTF-LT-1" should use Transmax Z. Yellow sticker with "MTF-LT-2" will have oiltype specified in handbook. Manual transmissions without sticker should use Syntrans Transaxle 75W-90 / Manual MP 80W Source: Castrol
Power Steering Fluid
The reservoir under the hood labelled ATF is, in fact, the power steering reservoir. Cross reference the Common Issues section. Fluid should be an DEXRON IV product. GM no longer certifies DEXRON III fluids
Bentley manuals specify "low viscosity" DOT4 brake fluid.
Bentley manuals specify BMW anti-seize lubricant called "Never seez", BMW part number 83-23-9-407-830 to cover the rotor face (where the wheel touches the rotor); and if you replace the rotor, this paste goes on the flange of the hub where it touches the inside of the rotor (again, where the lug holes are).
The latest Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Service Products lists 45 approved coolant products made around the world, from South Africa to Korea, but non are available in the U.S. or Canada! The only approved antifreeze that Americans and Canadians can buy is MBUSA's part number 000 989 08 25. While most U.S. antifreeze meets corrosion protection levels specified by Mercedes-Benz, its pH is unsatisfactory. Fresh domestic antifreeze has a pH in the 9.5 to 10 range, which is extremely basic. According to Mercedes-Benz, the allowable pH range of the coolant _mixture_ is 6.5 to 8.5. MBUSA's antifreeze has a measured pH of 7.5 to 7.8, which, when mixed with water, drops to 7 to 7.5. The buffering (pH maintenance chemistry) of MBUSA antifreeze is excellent, so the coolant mixture remains neutral, neither acidic nor basic, throughout its service life. Domestic coolant mixtures remain very basic, starting with a pH of 10 or higher and slowly absorbing acids, dropping to 8.5 to 9.0 during normal life." "In our experience, ""radiators with plastic header tanks last far longer and have far fewer broken upper hose necks if factory antifreeze is used."" Look at radiators with broken necks, and you'll clearly see where overly basic coolant has eaten away the plastic, which has become embrittled. Most failed necks that we see are actually crumbly. We have found much longer radiator life in cars using MBUSA coolant exclusively." <ref name="Star Magazine">Stu Ritter, Technical Editor, Star Magazine, July/August 2001, pp. 74-76.</ref>
Thus, according to Mercedes-Benz, a huge component of the cooling system failures is the extremely basic (high pH) coolant we are putting in our engines. Be careful!
- Aral Antifreeze Extra
- BP Anti-Frost X 2270-A
- BP Napgel C 2270-1
- Castrol Anti-Freeze NF
- Caltex CX Engine Coolant
- DEA Kuhlerfrostschutz
- Elf Antifreeze Special
- Fina Termidor
- Glyco Star
- Glyco Shell
- Glysantin Protect Plus
- Gusofrost LV 505
- Mobil Frostschutz 600
- Havoline AFC BD04
- Total Multiprotect
- Veedol Antifreeze NF
- OMV Kuhlerfroschutz<ref name="Coolant TIS">BMW TIS as posted on e46fanatics.com http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=521254</ref>
There is much discussion about the benefits of various tyres.
- Nokian Hakkapellita (studded or studless)
- Michelin X-Ice
- Bridgstone Blizzaks (studless)
Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta
Wiring diagram http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/download.php?id=387661
Acronyms and Terms
- CEL - Check Engine Light
- ICV - Idle Control Valve
- ABS - Anti Lock Braking System
- MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor
- VC - Valve Cover
- Indy - Independent BMW specialist
- DIY - Do-it-yourself
- PM - Preventive Maintenance
- PDC - Park Distance Control
- CPS - Camshaft Position Sensor or Crankshaft position Sensor (two diff sensors & you have both)
- ASC - Automatic Stability Control (in early models)
- DSC - Dynamic Stability Control (in all 540s as of 1998 (?), all models after 2001)
- CCV - Crankcase vent or (incorrectly) Clutch Control Valve (should be CDV)
- CDV - Clutch Delay Valve. Prevents dumping of the clutch but also prevents smooth shifts
- VANOS - Variable Nockenwellen Steuerung. VANOS varies the timing of the valves by moving the position of the camshafts in relation to the drive gear. This movement varies from 6 degrees of advanced to 6 degrees of retarded camshaft timing
- FSU/FSR - Final Stage Resistor for the HVAC. Controls fan speed.
- TPMS = Tire Pressure Monitoring System
- ACS = AC Schnitzer, the tuning company
- SS = stainless steel, as in Braided SS Brake Lines
- ZF = Sahnradfabrik (gear factory) Friedrichshafen AG, manufacturer of steering & transmissions
- GMIII = General module III (as in GM III Interchangability)
- M Technic = an options package (as in M technic Emblem)
- Sirius = a satellite-radio provider (as in Sirius Receiver Pinout..)
- Shadowline = matte black (SA339) or high-gloss black (SA760) trim option
- G-power = a German tuner (as in Who sells G-Power?)
- Dinan = a California-based tuning compoany (as in Home made CAI (Possibly better then Dinan)
- Celis = Central lighting systems, a trademark of Hella (as in OEM Celis Tail Light retrofit)
- WTB = Want to buy (as in WTB xenon passenger headlight)