BMW E39

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About this Wiki

The E39 Wiki should be used as a tool to help all E39 owners. The greatest feature of the Wiki is that anyone with an account on Bimmerfest has the ability to edit it. See something incorrect or notice something missing (there's a lot missing!)? Simply click on the edit link to the right of any section. Please respect the contributions made by other members and PLEASE don't sabotage this page.

The E46 Wiki has a LOT of information, and the I6 engines are largely shared with the E39. If the answer to your question is not here, look over there.

Model Summary

Each BMW body style is assigned a two digit number preceded by "E". The "E" stands for "Entwicklung", the German word for development. The BMW E39 automobile platform was the basis for BMW 5 Series between 1995 to 2004. It was the successor of the BMW E34 in 1995, and was phased-out by the E60 platform in 2004. Sales to Germany and the United Kingdom began in 1995, and by 1996 sales to the remaining entities of Europe and the rest of the world had commenced. A mid-life update appeared in 2001, featuring minute detail changes. At launch, the base model was the 520i, which developed 112 kilowatts (150 hp) in the pre-update models, and 126 kilowatts (170 hp) in later models. An M5 variant was introduced in 1998, with a 5.0 litre S62 V8 engine. All models but the M5 were available as either a sedan (car) or a Station wagon|touring wagon.

Introduced in Europe in 1995, the complete vehicle redesign draws heavily from the E38 7 Series in body construction and electronic technology. The mid-level BMW sedan showed evolutionary styling changes rather than a dramatic redesign. Initially offered only as a sedan, the wheelbase grew by 68 millimetres (2.7 in) and overall length by 55 millimetres (2.2 in) over the E34. In the US, the new 5 Series came in two forms; the 528i and 540i. The 528i is equipped with the 2.8 litre M52 in-line six carried over from the 1996 E36 328i and the 540i equipped with the 4.4 litre M62 V8. Both engines were upgraded over the prior 5 Series generation. The 2.8 litre dual overhead camshaft six-cylinder engine made 141 kilowatts (190 hp), versus 210 kilowatts (282 hp) for the 4.4 litre dual overhead camshaft, all-aluminum V8. A ZF five-speed manual transmission without overdrive was standard on the 528i, with an optional A4S 310 R four-speed automatic transmission. The 540i, in contrast, could have either a Getrag six-speed manual or a new five-speed A5S 560Z automatic transmission with adaptive transmission control. Standard equipment on both models included dual front and side airbags, Anti-lock braking system, traction control system, power steering, and air conditioning.<ref>{{#if: {{#if:http://www.redbookasiapacific.com/au/vehicle/specs.php?key=BMW+96DH | {{#if:1996 BMW 528i|1}}}} 

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Available Models

The E39 is the body style for the following models:

Model Engine Displacement (cc) Bore/Stroke (mm) Comp. Ratio Fuel System Power (kW/bhp) Torque (Nm/ft-lb) 0-62mph man 0-62mph auto Produced Where Sold (If not in all markets)
520i I-6 24V 1991 80/66 1:11.0 Multiport Fuel Injection 125/168 @6250RPM 210/150 @3500RPM 10.2sec 11.5sec 1996-2000
523i I-6 24V 2496 84/75 1:10.5 Multiport Fuel Injection 125/168 @5500RPM 245/181 @3500RPM 8.5sec 9.6sec 1995-2000
525i I-6 24V 2494 84/75 1:10.5 Multiport Fuel Injection 141/189 @6000RPM 245/181 @3500RPM 8.1sec 8.9sec 2000-2003
528i I-6 24V 2793 84/84 1:10.2 Multiport Fuel Injection 14w/190 @5500RPM 280/210 @3500RPM 7.5sec 8.8sec 1995-2000
530i I-6 24V 2979 84/89.6 1:10.2 Multiport Fuel Injection 170/228 @5900RPM 300/220 @3500RPM 6.6sec 7.6sec
535i V8 32V 3498 84/78.9 1:10 Multiport Fuel Injection 180/241 @5800RPM 345/254 @3500RPM 7.4sec 1996-2003 Europe
540i V8 32V 4398 92/82.7 1:10 Multiport Fuel Injection 210/282 @5400RPM 440/320 @3600RPM 6.1sec 6.4 1996-2003
M5 V8 32V 4941 94/89 1:11 Multiport Fuel Injection 294/394 @6600RPM 500/370 @3800RPM 5.3sec N/A 1998-2003
520d I-4 16V 1951 88/84 1:19 Common rail turbodiesel 100/134 @4000 280/210 @1750RPM 10.6sec 2000-2003 Europe
525d I-6 24V 2497 80/82.8 1:17.5 Common rail turbodiesel 120/161 @4000 350/260 @2000RPM 8.9sec 9.1 2000-2003 Europe
525td I-6 12V 2498 80/82.8 1:22.0 Indirect injection turbodiesel 185/114 @4800 230/170 @1900RPM 11.9sec N/A 1997-2000 Europe
525tds I-6 12V 2497 80/82.8 1:22.0 Indirect injection turbodiesel 105/141 @4000 280/210 @2200RPM 10.4sec 11.0 1996-2000 Europe
530d I-6 24V 2926 84/88 1:18.0 Common rail turbodiesel 135/181 @4000 390/290 @1750RPM 8.0sec 8.4 1998-2000 Europe
525tds I-6 12V 2497 80/82.8 1:18.0 Common Rail turbodiesel 142/190 @4000 410/300 @1750RPM 7.8sec 8.0 2000-2003 Europe

Available Options

Tailgate Badges

  • P - Protection -- Enhanced security vehicle fitted with bullet-resistant glass with polycarbonate skins (to retain glass splinters in the event of damage from projectiles), aramid armor in the doors and bulkheads as well as Michelin run-flat tires that can take a round and still keep the car on the road. Rear windows are fixed.
  • d - Diesel. Not applicable to North American E39s
  • e – eta (fuel efficient engines w/lots of low torque vs the higher reving more HP "i" engines used during the same time period or model production run) Not applicable to the E39
  • A - Automatic
  • t - Touring (hatchback)
  • s – Sport. Not applicable to the E39
  • i – injection. Applies to virtually all BMWs
  • c/C – Convertible or Coupe. Not applicable to the E39
  • x – all-wheel drive. See X-Drive Not applicable to the E39

Option Codes

Model Engine
S403A Glass Roof, electric

Maintenance

Common Issues

Alarm System

Random alarm activation can usually be attributed to one of the following:

  • Failing battery (system detects low voltage as someone tampering with the power supply[1]
  • Hood switch malfunctions, indicating to the alarm that the hood has been opened

Headlights (High Beams)

Earlier models have a version of the LCM that has MOSFETs that fail, causing one or more lights to be unresponsive to the high beam switch, headlight switch, and even ignition, possibly causing rundown of the battery.

Battery Drain

Intermittent or regular battery drain can be due to many issues. First, have the battery tested to ensure that it is not simply that the battery is too old. Next, perform a battery drain test to locate the source of the drain. Commonly, the FSU is broken, the car is not going into sleep mode (check if light indicating gear on shift lever is out after 20 min without opening doors), or the CD changer is continuing to cycle disks after the car is turned off. DICE modules can also cause problems

VANOS Seals

It has been claimed that the seals in the VANOS unit on I6 engines fail within 20,000 miles, due to incorrect materials used in the seals. This, according to Beisan Systems, who sells replacement seals, causes rough idle, stalling, and loss of power.

BMW does not provide the VANOS seals separately. It sells rebuilt VANOS units for ~$500. New rebuilt VANOS units are supplied with the same o-rings and have been found to significantly fail in 20k miles (32k kilometers), according to Beisan Systems, who is the sole marketer and manufacturer of replacement VANOS seals.

Some discussion surrounding the effectiveness of replacing these seals has taken place on the forums. It appears that many of the parts replaced at the same time as the seals could also be the cause of various issues. Responsible diagnosis of these parts is key to determining the correct solution.

Beisan Systems has performed dynamometer and fuel consumption tests, which were inconsistent. Many owners have commented that cold idle has improved.

Cooling System

The E39 cooling and belt drive system is comprised largely of plastic. These parts will begin failing around 80-100k miles, and , it is much better to do an ENTIRE Cooling system overhaul. A leak or minor overheating the beginning of a series of problems. Other items (like fan clutch, fan blade, radiator) will soon follow. It makes perfect sense to do the whole system. It saves you money and headache down the road.

Under no circumstances should you ever operate the vehicle if the temperature gauge goes past the 12 o'clock mark! Stop immediately and get a tow, unless you do not object to replacing your engine (or car).

Zionsville on map-controlled thermostats

E39 (on M52TU, M54, M62 engines) has a map-controlled thermostat In conventional cooling systems a wax element (this is the mechanical thermostat) keeps the coolant temperature close to about 90 °C. This control method ensures that the motor does not overheat even under extreme conditions, such as very high vehicle speeds, very high ambient temperatures and heavy loads. However, in normal conditions a petrol engine can generally be operated at 110 °C without danger. This high temperature improves tribological conditions in the motor, which in turn reduce friction losses, fuel consumption and exhaust emissions. An electronic map-controlled thermostat can satisfy such variable requirements, because it can adapt the coolant temperature to the motor's operating conditions within broader limits. With the motor at partial load it maintains the coolant temperature at a consistently high level; at full load, high engine speeds or high outside temperatures it reduces the temperature and thus ensures performance characteristics which match these conditions.

So, with a mechanical thermostat, when the coolant reaches a certain temperature, it opens. The map-controlled thermostat is "variable" based on input from the engine computer. It runs the engines hot (which is why the radiators also fail) for emissions. However, when the electronic thermostat fails, it continues to run the engines hot with no way of opening up "at full load, high engine speeds or high outside temperatures." This might be satisfactory if the driver were alerted to the fact that the thermostat had failed. A trouble code is set in the engine computer, which can be read with a diagnostic tool, but nothing appears on the instrument cluster. So, a failed thermostat can take the engine with it.

Tips

  • Many people have trouble removing the Fan Clutch Nut. Spray the nut with PB Blaster daily for two-three days before starting.
  • Replacing bleeder screws with brass is helpful, but it is very important to be extremely light when torquing them or they will strip the threads in the hose.
  • Bleeding the cooling system can be fairly difficult; follow the procedure carefully and you will have less trouble. Symptoms include sporadic rises in temperature or loss of cabin heat.
  • There is no coolant level sensor if you do not have a 20-character text display (high OBC cluster) in your instrument cluster. Check it regularly! Sporadic rises in temperature or loss of cabin heat indicates either air in the system or low coolant.
  • Use water based lubricant (local sex shop) on any o-rings in the cooling system.
  • Fan clutch nut installation with rawhide (If you have a friend, get them to hold the fan above the car and tighten from underneath. That's what I didBmwn00b13-109765)
  • Non-destructive hose removal
  • Coolant Temperature Sensor o-ring replacement

Common Mishaps

Cooling system DIYs

Modifying the cooling system

Zionsville

Best Cooling System Threads

Instrument Cluster and MID Pixels

The instrument cluster pixels and MID pixels fail line by line due to a poorly designed press-fit pink connection tape which lifts up over time. Failure will most likely not occur on both parts at the same time, though it's possible.

Cluster informational threads

MID information threads

Headlight Adjusters

Poorly designed or fabricated brittle PBT plastic headlight adjusters crumble over time causing the lights to point downward.

ABS Control Unit

Poorly fabricated resistance-welded steel power wires in the Bosch 5.x ABS control module often lift off their gold contact because of BMW's decision to install the ABS control module close to the heat and vibration of the engine to cut costs. The first indication to the user is often the so-called "trifecta" of yellow BRAKE, DSC, and ABS lights lit on the cluster.

Interior Fan Control

Poorly designed or fabricated fan-control final stage unit (aka final stage resistor) (FSU/FSR) modules go haywire due to poor heat-sink design causing erratic behavior of the fan, often described as "my fan has a mind of its own". Symptoms include fan unresponsive to controls, does not turn off when car turns off, or random dead battery (due to fan running all night).

Vapor Barriers

Improper adhesive was used on rear door vapor barrier seals which often allow rain water to fill the rear footwell.

V8 Valley Pan Gaskets

The V8 valley pan gaskets often leak coolant. Bad design for V8 valley pan gaskets that allow coolant to "disappear" - need to correct by using the newer designed valley pan gasket. When it leaks (and it will on ALL M62 engines built prior to 2003), the coolant runs through weep holes in the back of the engine, down through the bell housing area and drips off the bottom of the bell. Pretty sure there is nothing in the bell housing that can leak coolant. Take the engine cover off and look at the back of the engine on the top. If you see a pool of blue/green goo, that's the valley pan leaking. If you pay for this repair it's a few hundred in parts and about $1000 or more in labor.

Windshield Molding

Poor choice of heat labile rubber windshield & back window molding flakes and crumbles. The seal is for noise and protection of the edge of the windshield, but does not appreciably affect air or water penetration.

Jack Pads

Poorly designed plastic jack pads (aka "Support Lifting Platform", often fall off the underside of the frame due to poor latch design causing jack failures & wind noise. The replacement jack pads are designed not to fall off. The standard BMW "widow maker" jack does not work properly or remotely safely without the jack pads

Air Conditioning

Many users report air conditioning odors (often described as "gym sock smell") emanating from the air conditioning ducts. While the experience is common, the cause is poorly understood, most ascertaining it's due to organisms growing in moist hard-to-reach recesses in the circulation system. Some report clearing cabin-filter housing drain hoses and undercarriage drain hoses leads to a cure; others promote periodic spraying of disinfectant; while others modify their habits prior to shutting off the vehicle.

BMW Roundel Paint

Poorly painted BMW hood & trunk emblem (badge, logo, decal, hood ornament) roundels wash away, over time, necessitating replacement.

R&R DIY

Trunk Harness Loom

An amazingly poorly designed trunk loom wiring harness is almost certain to chafe causing myriads of light and fuse blowing and locking problems.

Shocks and Struts

On BMW the rear is a shock, the front is a strut. The difference is, a "shock" is just a shock. A strut on the other hand, is a shock that also performs as part of the suspension geometry. Meaning, the strut also holds the wheel in place and creates the up/down axis for the wheel movement. 1998 BMW 528i Front Suspension Overhaul

Amazingly difficult to diagnose premature failure of the OEM Sachs front struts interacting with the ABS system while braking on bumps causes violent shudder wholly unlike normal ABS pulsation.

Window Regulators

Poorly designed rear-window regulators often fail.

Ambient Temperature Sensor

Low mounted ambient temperature sensors are often ripped off on a parking curbs affecting HVAC function and outside temperature indications of -40°F (-40°C).

Cup Holders

Poorly designed front and rear cupholders practically beg for a replacement strategy.

Power Steering

The power steering reservoir is often constantly wet due to a worn o-ring in the power steering reservoir cap. Usually observed by slow dropping of the fluid level and an impossible-to-keep-clean reservoir.

In addition, the OEM power steering hose clamps are practically guaranteed to leak fluid over the alternator, often said to cause premature alternator failure. Usually observed by more rapid (though still slow) dropping of fluid, and wet hoses and possibly dripping onto alternator.

Alternator

The alternator prematurely fails, often ascribed to being directly under the power steering hose leak or to inadequate air flow due to debris clogging the ducting.

Wood Trim

The highly varnished natural wood trim spontaneously cracks on almost every E39, most likely due to temperature and humidity variations.

Vent Trim

The plastic trim around the dashboard air vents often crack at the corners.

Power Seat

Whenever working with the seats or anything connected to the airbag system, ALWAYS ensure the battery has been disconnected for 20-30 minutes, otherwise the airbag light will illuminate.

Switches

Switch covers that don't protect switches for seat positioning resulting in steering wheel position and driver's seat position failure.

Twisted Seat

Seat cables often fall out causing the seat to twist.

Windshield Washer Reservoir Pump

The windshield reservoirs prone to leaking due to an ill-fitting pump o-ring gasket.

CCV

The crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm often tears, freezes[3], &/or clogs[4], raising pressures, often causing the oil filter housing to leak[5], frequently blowing the VCG (valve cover gasket) [6]; and sometimes the head gasket [7]; often causing vacuum leaks [8] [9] [10], necessitating CCV replacement:

SAP

The secondary air pump freezes[11] or the diverter valve clogs, taking out the secondary air system (SAS).

Ignition Switch

The ignition switch fails causing weird but well characterized electrical problems usually related to the passenger sunvisor light (of all things).

Rough Idle—MAF/ICV

The mass air flow sensor (MAF) and idle control valve (ICV) require periodic cleaning.

Thrust Arm Bushings

Poorly designed fluid-filled thrust arm bushings crack and tear causing vibrations at speed.

Related bestlinks threads:(1) (2) (3) (4)

DISA Valve

The DISA valve flap breaks, sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold.

Center Armrest

A nearly useless console design just begs to be replaced.

Coding Car Functions

This isn't so much a problem as much as it is a basic complaint that it needlessly takes about $100 at the dealer to modify basic user settings, e.g., automatic door-lock settings.

Parts FAQ

Brakes

Here's the real answers to what seem to be the FAQ's.

Rotor sizes (in mm)

Minimum Acceptable Thickness for reuse

Maximum Allowable Runout


  • Is it allowed to machine (turn) BMW rotors?
Yes, there is an actual BMW procedure in the TIS describing how to machine the rotors. You can machine them down to the minimum thickness if you need to. You do however, need to ensure that both sides are evenly machined and the appropiate runout and surface finish specifications are maintained.
  • Should you machine your BMW rotors?
Generally speaking, BMW rotors are cheap enough where it does not make economic sense to turn them. Plus, replacing them guarantees you will have a rotor with the correct runout and surface finish criteria.
  • When do you have to replace your rotors?
When they are below the specified minimum thickness.
  • What if my rotors are at, but not below the minimum thickness?
Then you can use them again, but only for one more set of pads, assuming you are using OEM pads or pads with equal or less rotor wear than the OEM pads.
  • What's the theory behind the minimum thickness criteria?
When BMW selected the pads and designed the rotor thickness, it was not done randomly. The expected range of rotor and pad wear is known and designed on purpose.
Your pads have a wear sensor which goes off when you have 3mm or less pad material. It is a safe assumption that the pad wear sensor is designed to go off before you wear your rotors down so thin that they are hazardous. So the deduction from this is that the wear rate of rotors with OEM pads is 1.6mm or less per set of pads. Which in turn means the absolute safety limit of rotor thickness is probably about 18.8mm front and 15.8mm rear (for 323/325/328 - add 3mm for 330). To put it another way, the BMW rotors and pads are designed in such a way that if you reuse the rotors at minimum thickness, your pad wear sensor will go off before your rotors get too thin.
  • So do should I replace the rotors everytime I replace the pads?
Assuming they are at or above the minimum thickness for reuse and are otherwise within spec, it's up to you to strike the best balance of tradeoffs between performance and money. It is an absolute certainty that you will get better braking performance out of new rotors than reused rotors. But depending upon the condition of the rotors, the difference in performance may be slight.
The one thing you do NOT want to do however, is reuse rotors with a non-OEM brake pad of unknown wear rate. By doing so, you run a very serious risk of having a higher rotor wear rate than was intended by design. As a result, your rotors may become dangerously thin and even fail before the pad wear sensor goes off.

Approved Fluids

There is much discussion about what fluids should be put into a BMW. Please do not edit this list unless you are certain that something is incorrect! This doesn't mean "My friend Jack is an engineer at such and such and says that Synthetic is useless."

Engine Oil

New BMWs (After 1997) require synthetic. As far as weight, only certain production dates of M3's and M5's require the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.

The Factory BMW Synth 5w-30 is a version of Castrol TXT Softect sold overseas. A few important things about the BMW oil a) it is a Group III hydrocracked oil which cannot be called synthetic in Europe, b) it is a heavy 30 weight (30 weight can run from 9.3-12.5cst@100c, the BMW oil is about 12.2cst), c) it is a ACEA A3 oil which means that it is approved for longer change intervals and has a HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) measured at 150c of greater than 3.5.

In the US, the only Group IV PAO Synthetics that are available are 1) Mobil 1, 2) Amsoil (but not the Xl-7500), 3) Royal Purple, and 4) German Castrol 0w-30 (it has the red label and says on the back, "Made in Germany). Redline is a Group V PolyEster based oil. All other Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline "synthetics" are a Group III hydrocracked oil. It is debated how much better Group IV base oils are than group III, but generally they are considered better.

When looking for oil for any BMW that does not require Castrol TWS 10w-60, you want to purchase an oil that has either/both of the following ratings, a) ACEA A3, or b) BMW LL-98 or LL-01.

Note that Mobil 1 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are NOT ACEA A3 or BMW LL approved oils. This is because they all are thin 30 weight oils (approximately 9.8-10 CST@ 100c) and have HTHS of approximately 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 and 15w-50 are A3 rated and the Ow-40 is BMW LL-01 approved. For 99% of climates and users 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the appropriate grade. There are some 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils (like the BMW 5w-30) that are forumlated on the heavier end of the 30 weight scale and are accordingly rated A3. These oils will work well also. LOOK FOR THAT ACEA A3 rating. If the oil doesn't have it, pass on it.

Some people seem confused about how oil thickness is measured. The first number (0W, 5w, 10w, 15w, etc) is a measurement of how thick the oil is at tempuratures of -35c- -20c (depends on the grade). The lower this first number the thinner the oil is at LOW tempuratures. The second number (30, 40, 50) refers to oil thickness at 100c (operating tempurature). 30 weight can be from 9.3-12.5 cst, 40 weight from 12.6-16.2 cst, 50 weight from 16.3-22cst (approximate). So you can have two oils, one called a 5w-30 (i.e. bmw oil) another 0w-40 (Mobil 1) that are very similar thicknesses at operating tempurature. Compare this to Mobil 1 Xw-30 which is close to a 20 weight oil at 100c. For more information here is a link with exact numbers

BMW's recommended interval of 12,000-15,000 miles is too long. Used oil analysis has shown the BMW oil is generally depleted at 10,000 miles. Running it longer results in excess wear. It is highly recommended that you change your oil once between each BMW recommended interval (approx 7000-7500 miles). If you want to run your oil the BMW recommended interval, I would suggest that you use Mobil 1 0w-40 or Amsoil 5w-40 and change the oil filter at 7500 miles. I would encourage a full oil change at 7500 if you want your engine to last.

If you want to spend a few hours learning about oil, go to bobistheoilguy.com but its like a different language.... so which one do you suggest if you were going to change your oil?

Unless you have an M3 or M5, in the following order:

1) Mobil 1 0w-40, 2) Mobil 1 0w-40, and 3) Mobil 1 0w-40

If you can't find the 0w-40, the Mobil 1 SUV 5w-40 is a great oil. Can't find either of these, then go to your dealer and get the BMW 5w-30.

The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil, widely available (Walmart, Checker, Kragen, Autozone), and moderately priced. It is factory fill in Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and Aston Martin.

BMW-LL04

Use of BMW-LL04 oils in the E39 is not recommended. LL04 does not supersede LL01; it is for certain engines (primarily Diesels)

BMW - LL01
  • Mobil 1 0-40
  • Castrol Snytec 0-30 European
  • Pentospeed 0W30
  • Total 0W30
BMW - LL98
  • Liqui-Moly 5W40
  • Pentohigh 5W30
  • Total 5W40
BMW - Motorsport
  • Total 10W50
  • Castrol TWS 10W60

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Differential Fluid

Power Steering Fluid

The reservoir under the hood labelled ATF is, in fact, the power steering reservoir. Cross reference the Common Issues section. Fluid should be an DEXRON IV product. GM no longer certifies DEXRON III fluids

Brake Fluid

Bentley manuals specify "low viscosity" DOT4 brake fluid.

Anti-Seize Lubricant

Bentley manuals specify BMW anti-seize lubricant called "Never seez", BMW part number 83-23-9-407-830 to cover the rotor face (where the wheel touches the rotor); and if you replace the rotor, this paste goes on the flange of the hub where it touches the inside of the rotor (again, where the lug holes are).

Coolant

The latest Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Service Products lists 45 approved coolant products made around the world, from South Africa to Korea, but non are available in the U.S. or Canada! The only approved antifreeze that Americans and Canadians can buy is MBUSA's part number 000 989 08 25. While most U.S. antifreeze meets corrosion protection levels specified by Mercedes-Benz, its pH is unsatisfactory. Fresh domestic antifreeze has a pH in the 9.5 to 10 range, which is extremely basic. According to Mercedes-Benz, the allowable pH range of the coolant _mixture_ is 6.5 to 8.5. MBUSA's antifreeze has a measured pH of 7.5 to 7.8, which, when mixed with water, drops to 7 to 7.5. The buffering (pH maintenance chemistry) of MBUSA antifreeze is excellent, so the coolant mixture remains neutral, neither acidic nor basic, throughout its service life. Domestic coolant mixtures remain very basic, starting with a pH of 10 or higher and slowly absorbing acids, dropping to 8.5 to 9.0 during normal life." "In our experience, ""radiators with plastic header tanks last far longer and have far fewer broken upper hose necks if factory antifreeze is used."" Look at radiators with broken necks, and you'll clearly see where overly basic coolant has eaten away the plastic, which has become embrittled. Most failed necks that we see are actually crumbly. We have found much longer radiator life in cars using MBUSA coolant exclusively." <ref name="Star Magazine">Stu Ritter, Technical Editor, Star Magazine, July/August 2001, pp. 74-76.</ref>

Thus, according to Mercedes-Benz, a huge component of the cooling system failures is the extremely basic (high pH) coolant we are putting in our engines. Be careful!

  • Aral Antifreeze Extra
  • BP Anti-Frost X 2270-A
  • BP Napgel C 2270-1
  • Castrol Anti-Freeze NF
  • Caltex CX Engine Coolant
  • DEA Kuhlerfrostschutz
  • Elf Antifreeze Special
  • Fina Termidor
  • Glyco Star
  • Glyco Shell
  • Glysantin Protect Plus
  • Gusofrost LV 505
  • Mobil Frostschutz 600
  • Havoline AFC BD04
  • Total Multiprotect
  • Veedol Antifreeze NF
  • OMV Kuhlerfroschutz<ref name="Coolant TIS">BMW TIS as posted on e46fanatics.com http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=521254</ref>

Tyres

There is much discussion about the benefits of various tyres.

Winter Tyres
  • Nokian Hakkapellita (studded or studless)
  • Michelin X-Ice
Summer Tyres
Track/Performance Tyres

Audio and Navigation

Wiring diagram

Wiring diagram http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/download.php?id=387661

Acronyms and Terms

  • CEL - Check Engine Light
  • ICV - Idle Control Valve
  • ABS - Anti Lock Braking System
  • MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • VC - Valve Cover
  • Indy - Independent BMW specialist
  • DIY - Do-it-yourself
  • PM - Preventive Maintenance
  • PDC - Park Distance Control
  • CPS - Camshaft Position Sensor or Crankshaft position Sensor (two diff sensors & you have both)
  • ASC - Automatic Stability Control (in early models)
  • DSC - Dynamic Stability Control (in all 540s as of 1998 (?), all models after 2001)
  • CCV - Crankcase vent or (incorrectly) Clutch Control Valve (should be CDV)
  • CDV - Clutch Delay Valve. Prevents dumping of the clutch but also prevents smooth shifts
  • VANOS - Variable Nockenwellen Steuerung. VANOS varies the timing of the valves by moving the position of the camshafts in relation to the drive gear. This movement varies from 6 degrees of advanced to 6 degrees of retarded camshaft timing
  • FSU/FSR - Final Stage Resistor for the HVAC. Controls fan speed.
  • TPMS = Tire Pressure Monitoring System
  • ACS = AC Schnitzer, the tuning company
  • SS = stainless steel, as in Braided SS Brake Lines
  • ZF = Sahnradfabrik (gear factory) Friedrichshafen AG, manufacturer of steering & transmissions
  • GMIII = General module III (as in GM III Interchangability)
  • M Technic = an options package (as in M technic Emblem)
  • Sirius = a satellite-radio provider (as in Sirius Receiver Pinout..)
  • Shadowline = matte black (SA339) or high-gloss black (SA760) trim option
  • G-power = a German tuner (as in Who sells G-Power?)
  • Dinan = a California-based tuning compoany (as in Home made CAI (Possibly better then Dinan)
  • Celis = Central lighting systems, a trademark of Hella (as in OEM Celis Tail Light retrofit)
  • WTB = Want to buy (as in WTB xenon passenger headlight)
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