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-   -   **Z4** DIY Guides (Post links here) (https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130986)

JonM 02-04-2006 11:24 AM

**Z4** DIY Guides (Post links here)
 
This thread is meant to be Z4-specific. Post links and how-to's as replies to this thread. I/we will edit as needed.


This thread is NOT for questions. This thread is to post DIY or How-To's. If you have a question about your car, please start a new thread. Do NOT post your question here. Your post will be deleted in the interest of keeping this thread on topic.

If you have a question about a DIY posted here, feel free to ask away here or int he original thread.

Ron Stygar 03-10-2006 11:27 PM

Z4 Heated outside mirrors
 
1 Attachment(s)
Someone sent me this knowing I was into it on the E36.


Doctor Wha 03-15-2006 02:15 PM

Here's one of my own making... Z4 Door Handle LEDs:

http://www.z4um.com/viewtopic.php?t=...954435034ce802


:)

Ron Stygar 03-31-2006 10:55 PM

THX Certified Sound to BMW Z4
 









Ron Stygar 04-02-2006 03:02 PM

E85 Complete Vechicle
 
Connect to:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/...%20Vehicle.pdf

Ron Stygar 04-02-2006 08:33 PM

Z4 Clock Set
 
2 Attachment(s)



Ron Stygar 10-27-2006 09:10 PM

Z4 retrofit stainless steel pedal plates
 
8 Attachment(s)















Ron Stygar 10-27-2006 09:14 PM

pedals continued
 





Ron Stygar 10-29-2006 07:11 PM

Z4 Alarm install instructions 65 73 0 302 424
 
Just installed the alarm retrofit kit (without interior protection).
Part # 65 73 0 302 424 $112r
Initially wasn't going to add it, but an experience in VA on the way to HC changed my mind.

Basically a under hood switch and a siren with built in tilt sensor.
The siren assembly gets installed underneath the car between the two mufflers.
Instructions say you have to remove the rear bumper cover to do that.
Having the car apart before, that didn't make sense.
Turns out that you just have to remove (8 screws and 2 plastic nuts) the black bottom diffuser
plastic piece cover which gives you the same access that removing the bumper does.













Non M part:






Ron Stygar 11-18-2006 04:11 PM

Switch unit center console 61 31 057
 
2 Attachment(s)



Ron Stygar 11-23-2006 01:59 PM

Z4 Car key memory 2006
 
5 Attachment(s)
Stopped by my dealer today in respect to coding the CD changer and phone docking cradle. Since both items work fine he recommended to leave it alone. I agreed.

We went on to do car/key memory. They tried to do car key memory when I took delivery of the car (part of PDI) but the system would not connect to the car. This was a M Coupe thing and they fixed it with version 22.
When he initially connected it said to use EDIC.
He was not familar with that and changed the head and it came up fine.
Basically the same as the following pics plus it showed the three flash lane change option.
I asked him to print the list and he said can't be done. He did print out the changes.
Some of the things mentioned in the list didn't make sense to me or him.
I basically had him do the following.

DRL which lights the inside halos.

One momentary turn signal touch = turn signal lane change three flashs.
I prefer the -Firestone five flash.

Lock after unlock without open. Have no idea what that does and neither does he.
I assume that it will relock the car if unlocked without opening the door. Haven't tried it yet.

Automatic door lock when driving off when you reach ~10 MPH.
I prefer the -Firestone method which locked on start and also at some speed.
On the list.

I also asked him to activate alarm but he said that it was already activated. I tried this long ago but no flash. Turns out that it doesn't flash until 1 minute 11 seconds go by.

Easy mods:).



Pathway Lighting:
I have mine at 40 seconds.
From the manual:










Jason Marshall 12-11-2006 06:34 PM

Z4 M Service Maintenance Checklist
 
Seems like this previous post by Ron with copy of Service Maintenance Checklist should be in this thread for easy reference:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=171200

peeti 02-16-2007 06:54 PM

Tire Pressure Monitoring Modules (TPS / TPMS) 2007 M
 
1 Attachment(s)
I bought winters and with the lack of a spare, was not comfortable driving without the reassurance of tire pressure monitoring. So I bought sensors for the winter set. Since there is much ado about "yes you need sensors", "no it's ABS"... I thought this would help everyone.

2007 DO NEED sensors in all four wheels. It is now an active system. Not sure if it's a model year thing or as of some manufacture date, but it's true.

To do this - you will need 4 each of two parts...

SCREW-ON VALVE RDC
10 WHEEL ELECTRONICS MODULE, RDC 433MHZ 36236779490
11 SCREW-IN VALVE RDC GELB 36146759741

Bad news - most dealers don't stock these parts. Good news - about half the price of american counterparts and not that bad... figure about $50 per wheel with a CCA discount and tax.

Attached is a diagram of the parts (see identifiers 10 and 11) as well as a pic I took (sorry crappy cam phone) when I had them installed in the wheel. The gray blobs are the sensors, the little sticks - got me?! I think they were there to help screw in the stem.

Hope this helps someone!

Best,
Peet

Diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/b/241.png

Image of actual item:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1171680781

Ron Stygar 03-06-2007 01:14 PM

Z4 Coupe / M Coupe Crash Parts
 



Ron Stygar 05-08-2007 08:43 PM

Removing front grilles
 






Ron Stygar 05-09-2007 10:12 PM

Removing and installing front radiator grilles
 



Instead of pushing up the tabs you can just push down the plactic with card (stiff credit card) and push forward on the top of the card and it pops right out.
Tool part number cedes to 83 30 0 493 687 2/$19.25r. I have four of them. Use them all of the time removing stuff.





Ron Stygar 06-01-2007 11:58 AM

Service Interval Display reset
 





Ron Stygar 06-22-2007 11:16 PM

Z4 M owners manual
 
Compliments of Alan Alfano.

https://oc.bmwusa.com/publications/O...Z4_M_Coupe.pdf

Ron Stygar 06-22-2007 11:47 PM

Power windows initializing Z4 from 04/2004
 




>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>








Ron Stygar 08-09-2007 07:25 PM

Z4 Rear bumper cover removal
 
When I removed the front reflectors one came out easily. The other was destoyed.
Not an issue since I had them filled. The rear ones turn out CCW from the inside.
Pay attention to see where the wheel well plastic goes, inside or outside of the fender,
depending on which bumper.
Inside on the rear, but can go the other way too.






jmillet 10-30-2007 09:09 PM

2007 Z4 Service Maintenance Checklist
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is the 2007/2008 Z4 (E85 and E86) Service Maintenance Checklist
Attachment 125606

Ron Stygar 11-02-2007 10:29 PM

NA Z4 M Coupe numbers
 



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Ron Stygar 12-18-2007 11:37 AM

Z4 gap specification
 
2 Attachment(s)



Ron Stygar 12-19-2007 06:19 PM

Z4-M Charcoal filter
 
3 Attachment(s)





DaveZ 01-27-2008 08:29 AM

MRoadster Alarm w/Motion Detector Install Instructions
 
2 Attachment(s)
These instructions are for alarm kit #65 73 0 309 944 w/motion detector. This is for Z4 roadsters 10/03 and later, and for M Roadsters MY 2006 and later. The instructions themselves are part #01 29 0 393 087. You can find more details on the different Z4 alarm kits at this thread. To get around the 500K attachment limit, I have split the instructions into 2 pdfs.

Ron Stygar 01-28-2008 04:13 PM

Front Lighting
 



Ron Stygar 02-22-2008 07:25 PM

Z4 Strut brace install instructions
 
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...7&d=1181582846

Ron Stygar 02-24-2008 11:10 AM

Z4 Exterior mirror glass instructions
 








Following compliments of Palantirion:

First the mirrors. Step 1 is to slide this tab to the left to unlock the mirror (major PITA :mad:):
http://ebsart.com/images/Net%20Publi...l/CIMG7714.JPG

The mirror pulls off with its retaining clip and then you unscrew three screws to remove the motor. Also disconnect the two wires and connector:
http://ebsart.com/images/Net%20Publi...l/CIMG7716.JPG

Another view, also showing how to tilt the mirror so you can unscrew the screw holding the plastic cover in place:
http://ebsart.com/images/Net%20Publi...l/CIMG7720.JPG

Take another four screws out and release two small tabs inside the mirror housing and you can slide it off.
http://ebsart.com/images/Net%20Publi...l/CIMG7724.JPG

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





fbriggs 05-26-2008 04:24 PM

Z4 water pump replacement (e85, m54)
 
OK..here is how you really change the water pump on a Z4....(E85, m54 motor, mine is a 2.5) I have done this procedure, and all you will need are one water pump with o-ring, two m6x25mm bolts, a gallon of anti-freeze, simple hand tools, a few blocks of wood, a rolling floor jack, and jack stands. It is a good time to replace the belts, so get both of them. Yes, you do have to move the engine..a little.
1. Jack up the car on one side, place a smaller jackstand under the car where the front stabalizer is bolted to the frame. You just need to get the car up enough to remove the front plastic splashpan. Now remove the splashpan, grip it firmly, and toss it at the nearest BMW engineer to show your gratitude for designing a car that has a sheet metal support with webing placed directly infront of the water pump, thereby making it necessary to move the engine in order to remove the water pump, even though there is enough room infront of the sheet metal support to be able to desing it with a slight 1" dip towards the front of the car thereby providing enough clearance to simply remove the water pump unimpeded. Now, jack up the car a little higher, and remove your small jackstand and place a big jackstand (now that you have the clearance) under the car. place the jack on the other side, and jack it up enough to place another large jackstand under the car at the point where the anti-sway bar (stabilizer) bolts to the frame. Now place a rolling floorjack under the engine and place a block of wood between the jack and the oilpan at the front of the engine. Make sure this block of wood is long enough to support the load across the entire width of the oilpan, in order to srpead the weight of the engine across as much of the oilpan as possible, for obvious reasons. You just need to jack it up to meet the oilpan, don't go any higher yet. The reason you do this now is because the underside of the engine will soon become wet with anti-freeze, making everything slippery.
2. Now remove the belt for the A/C compressor (torx bit needed for tensioner)
3. Remove the top plastic (fanshroud?) cover and loosen but don't remove the bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the serpentine belt. 16mm socket for the tensioner.
4. Now remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Tap the pulley gently to get it off. It is made of plastic, so be careful. Remove the 10mm nuts on the water pump. Now install your m6x25mm bolts into the threaded holes on the water pump. Tighten them, and this will remove the water pump from the engine block. The coolant will spill out, but it won't be a lot. Now remove the upper radiator hose only where it connects to the engine by prying the metal clip. Push it up out of the way against the oil filter housing. You can remove the hose before removing the pump, but I did not because it would otherwise make everything wet that I still have to work on.
5. Now remove the nut at the left engine mount. I think it is a 16mm, might have been 15mm.
6. Jack up the engine slowly, but only go up to the point where the engine mounting bolt is just at the lip of the engine mount, where it almost clears the engine mount, but no further. (I would not want to have to line that thing up upon installation. Besides, it is not necessary to go that far.) You should now be able to pull out the water pump going in the direction of the passenger side.
Ta Da! You've now saved your self a lot of money. Now install the new water pump by lubricating the new o-ring with a little ant-freeze on your hand, and install the water pump. Put the car back together. Pour in some anti-freeze. With the car and the heater running, bleed the air out of the cooling system. (With the bleeder screw located next to the resevior cap.) But keep the old water pump. You will need this during your next trip to Germany, when you get the opportunity to throw it at the head of a BMW z4 engineer. This will make them think! It would be different if these water pumps did not fail prematurely.
Hope this helps!

Ron Stygar 06-08-2008 08:55 PM

BMW Antifreeze: 82 14 1 467 704 $19.25 retail
 
BMW antifreeze ia a long term rated coolant, unless you have repairs.




Ron Stygar 06-17-2008 08:37 PM

BMW Faults: MSS70-2006 MZ4
 
Will add to them as it goes.



Ron Stygar 07-23-2008 11:03 AM

Headlight washer operation
 
1 Attachment(s)

Ron Stygar 11-11-2008 07:52 AM

Winter storage
 
Following is from a S54 bulletin.



Following is from the BMW Operating Fluids manual group00.

Gas tank mention was interesting.






Ron Stygar 12-12-2008 08:59 PM

Differential Fluids
 



Randy Forbes 12-13-2008 09:34 AM

Beyond the trip home from the dealer (with the container bouncing around in the trunk) shaking the jug had never occured to me.

Thanks!

Glad to see you have your connection (laptop) back.

Ron Stygar 12-16-2008 08:55 AM

Z4 M Filling Quantities
 

Ron Stygar 12-21-2008 04:54 PM

Z4 Jacking points
 

Ron Stygar 01-06-2009 09:26 PM

CDV install and clutch bleed
 





1.3mm: Smaller yet versus the 1.7mm we are used to seeing.



Tools I used.



Also used a second clamp on the reservoir clutch line output.
No leaks this way at all if you don't shake the hose.





Some other lock valves:







------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clutch Bleed:

The E36 and E36/7-8 (Z3) use the same basic clutch pieces parts.
For some reason the E36/7-8 (Z3) cars engagement point is lower than the E36. On the E36/7-8 (Z3), the engagement point lowers with heat.
From checking out the E36/7-8 (Z3), developing the front shifting arm bushings, I know that the temperature in the tunnel area exceeds 200 degrees F. The stock front shifting arm bushing in my M coupe turned to mush in less than 5000 miles.
The clutch slave cylinder is in the tunnel area.
Bleeding the clutch raises the engagement point on some E36/7-8's.
I purchased the bleed tool to see what the result is using it. Will be checking this out later this year.
For the ingineer fluid folks, how would the engagement point change with air in the system versus no air in the system with heat?
In other words, is it a bleed the air out thing?





Ron Stygar 02-01-2009 09:08 PM

Z4-M NA Passenger side motor mount bracket problem
 
1 Attachment(s)
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=233491

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=247988

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=272236

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=294159

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...0962&highlight

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=4067789


If you want to use BMW stuff MotorSport Z4 uses the following:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=motorsport

Screw 07 11 9 913 653 $0.47r
Screw 07 11 9 913 673 $0.62r
Washer 07 11 9 903 078 $0.35r



Bulletin:





Angle torque:

This is used on the connecting rod bolts and other things.

You torque the screw and then turn it degrees mentioned in the TIS torque area for what your doing.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/too...le_torque.html

Retail is $191.37 now.



Motor mount bracket screws:

I had the front reinforcement plate out to clean the power steering fluid.

Good time to do the motor bracket screws.
Will do the drivers side when I remove the air collector.

I used the Motorsport 10.9 screws and washers.
Torqued all four at 24Nm with the following Sears tools.











Torque:


Ron Stygar 02-17-2009 06:47 AM

Operating Fluids Group 11
 











Ron Stygar 02-26-2009 09:40 AM

Secondary Air System Analysis
 



P2ayc 03-14-2009 06:03 PM

switched power z4
 
Finally got my extra power outlets in today. I have one for xm & another to charge my phone. I hate having wires out the cigg lighter.

What I did is remove the ashtray, remove the screw under it. Then lift the unit up & back the whole thing comes out in one unit.

There are three connectors attached to this, you want the largest (brown) one.

Peel back the wire covering & locate the purple & white wire. This is hot when the switch is on. Use the ground from the cigg lighter.

I fished the wires into the glove (something,on this car that is basically useless) I have the xm & extra outlet there.

I only listen to one station on xm so I don't need to see it or have it within reach. If you do then bring the wires out at a different location as fits your needs.

Ron Stygar 04-02-2009 06:02 PM

Z4 Instrument Cluster System Test
 
1 Attachment(s)






Speed: km/hr X 0.6214 = miles/hr

From jragan:

1. Enter Vehicle.

2. Start Car. (You can enter test mode and test all while the car is running and moving)


3. Enter test mode (hold down the S/R button until _tESt_0._ is displayed)

4. Press the S/R button quickly until _tESt_19._ is displayed.
......After a second, _tESt_19.0 will be displayed with alternating/flashing L_oFF and L_oN.
......When L_oFF is displayed, press both the S/R and the button beside it at the same time.
......You will be returned to _tESt_0._

5. Press the S/R button quickly until _tESt_7._ is displayed.
......After a second, _tESt_7.0 will be displayed.
......Press S/R button quickly until _tESt_7.3 is displayed.

6. Drive.

7. Note speeds. (Remember the _tESt_7.3 speed is in km/h so you'll need to do some math afterwards)

8. Stop Driving.

9. Turn car off.

10. Exit vehicle.

shipkiller 04-03-2009 06:56 AM

Z4 Softtop Removal and Softtop Motor Changeout
 
Over on Z4-forum.com, in the How-To section are two How-To's. One for the Soft Top removal and the other is for the motor replacement.

Soft Top removal: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewto...p?f=12&t=10190

Motor replacement: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewto...p?f=12&t=10189

Ron Stygar 04-05-2009 11:51 AM

Tire wear
 

Ron Stygar 04-25-2009 03:47 PM

Z4 Weight distribution
 

Ron Stygar 04-26-2009 02:42 PM

S54 Limp-home modes
 
From the E46-M3 (S54) Training Manual.




Ron Stygar 05-02-2009 08:22 PM

Z4 Rivets
 
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=302441

Confusion was that it shows at group 51 but doesn't show the correct rivets.
Turns out it's under group 41.
Did someone remove your bumper before, that didn't have the right parts? Could have been from assembly.
The part you have is a pop rivet as suspected.
There is one on each side on the wheelwell at the bottom 9 inches in from the fender.



Item 10
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...51&hg=41&fg=10

Item 27
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=41&fg=25

Ron Stygar 05-08-2009 06:26 PM

S54 Valve Check/Adjust
 
1 Attachment(s)
BMW shows it done every Inspection.
I checked mine on the '01 Z3 M coupe around 30K and it was in spec.

Will be doing it at 30K steps along with some other things.

Engine rotation:



Before you start, be cool on the car.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/...springss54.jpg


https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9755

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28710

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68387

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=337021

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97891

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=493987





Quote:

Originally Posted by jmillet (Post 4319065)
I use the Craftsman off-set leaf gauge, SKU 40802, price $9.99, that has blades ranging from .005" (.127mm) to .030" (.762mm). As pointed out by Ron the .007" (.178mm) and the .009" (.229mm) work for the intake valve clearance check and the .011" (.279mm) and .013" (.330mm) for the exhaust valves.

$15.84 total delivered tax and shipping.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...?keyword=40802



.
.

Ron Stygar 05-17-2009 09:19 PM

Z4 Emblem Install
 



Ron Stygar 05-25-2009 06:16 PM

Wind deflector Single Parts
 

Ron Stygar 05-28-2009 08:15 PM

Simultaneoe Pedals
 

Ron Stygar 06-04-2009 07:59 PM

Z4M Ride Height
 












[email protected] 06-08-2009 10:31 PM

Z4M: Leather Z Triple Gauge Install
 
This DIY post summarizes the process of installing the Z4 Complete Gauge Kit which can be found here. This post also aggregates other posts related to the topic.

In general the Leather Z kit is well designed and comes complete with gauges, mount, sending units, wiring, and detailed pictured instructions. The posts below provide you with additional details to make your install go smoothly. My install was for the S54 gauges and included the Leather Z Power Socket Relocation kit found here. Since I did not have the luxury of doing this in one shot I broke the process into six steps and completed it over several days allowing me to drive the car after each step. All together everything worked upon first try. I would recommend this DIY to anyone with moderate or intermediate mechanical skills.

Step 1 install the Z4 Power Socket Relocation Kit adding the radio Aux In.
See this post for tips: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=180804

Step 2 mount gauges and hook up to dim lighting.
See this post for tips: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214992

Step 3 install the water temp sending unit which requires draining and replacing the coolant.
See this post for tips: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190021

Step 4 install the oil pressure sending unit which requires disassembly of the air intake system.
See this post for tips: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=210399

Step 5 wire the sending units tie wrapping along the away finally passing through the firewall to the gauges.
See post above for wire routing tips.

Step 6 connect the gauges to the sending wires and switched power.
See this post for tips for finding switched power (not in the instructions):
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...switched+power

Ron Stygar 06-30-2009 10:11 PM

Z4 M Coupe cupholder delete
 
Removed the passenger side cupholder and replaced it with the blank cover.
Will be doing the same on the drivers side when the parts show up.
Will probably install the V1 remote there.
Each cup holder is minus ~ 8 -oz.






Ron Stygar 07-27-2009 09:59 PM

Emergency Call Button
 

Ron Stygar 07-28-2009 09:46 AM

Z4 Alarm parts 65 73 0 309 944 (May 2007)
 





Ron Stygar 08-03-2009 12:07 AM

Speed Bleeder valves
 
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=375609












Ron Stygar 08-10-2009 02:51 PM

Bump stops
 



Ron Stygar 09-27-2009 07:35 PM

Z4 Headlight adjustment
 






http://www.mcmaster.com/


car62 10-16-2009 05:43 AM

Pressure brake bleeder
 
I am not endorsing this vendor because their service has been not completely satisfactory at times, but this product is an excellent tool to have that allows easy one person flushing and replacement of brake fluid for the brake and clutch system.

http://www.bavauto.com/assets/imglib500/pb03.jpg

Ron Stygar 12-15-2009 06:49 PM

Z4: Remove Door Trim Panel
 
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=210510

Ron Stygar 12-15-2009 07:20 PM

Rattling Noise from the Rear of the Door Panel
 

Ron Stygar 12-17-2009 10:05 PM

S54: Catalyst Protection While Car is Low on Fuel
 

Ron Stygar 12-17-2009 10:07 PM

Oil Temp/Oil Sensor S54
 

Ron Stygar 12-19-2009 08:47 PM

Z4-M HP/Torque NA and Euro
 
NA Z4-M:

HP = 330 / 246KW (246000/746 = 330) (246000/735 = 335)

Torque = 262 lb-ft / 355 Nm

Euro Z4-M:

HP = 343 / 252KW (252000/735 = 343) (252000/746 = 338)

Torque = 269 lb-ft / 365 Nm

So NA is 8 HP less than Euro.

Ron Stygar 01-23-2010 09:42 PM

Z4 Coupe Trunk Water Leak
 

Ron Stygar 01-24-2010 08:42 AM

Z4 Door Sill Trim Scratched
 

Ron Stygar 01-24-2010 10:01 AM

Z4 Seats Noise
 



Ron Stygar 01-26-2010 09:00 PM

Z4 Third Brake Crack
 



Ron Stygar 01-26-2010 09:36 PM

Z4 Rattle Noise Convertible Top
 

Ron Stygar 03-04-2010 03:03 PM

Cooling System: Long Term Antifreeze/Coolant
 







Ron Stygar 03-07-2010 12:22 PM

Z4 Camber Caster Plate Instructions
 

Ron Stygar 03-08-2010 11:19 PM

Z4M Rear Axle Camber, Toe Adjust
 
3 Attachment(s)


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Ron Stygar 04-02-2010 08:58 PM

CTEK 7002 Battery Charger
 
http://www.ctek.com/EN-US/eLearningUS/Default.aspx

http://www.ctek.com/Manuals/new_US7002_EN.pdf

When charged in normal it draws .03 ampere.
Battery Tender draws .06 ampere.







I added a aluminum plate on the bottom of the CTEK with 1/2" height spacers.
Was going to match the bottom of the CTEK, but too much time doing it by hand.

1 each Plate 4" x 8" x 1/8" aluminum. (polished with 220 wet paper)
2 each Spacer 3/8" hex, 1/2" height w/ 8-32 male / female.
2 each Nut nylon lock stainless.
2 each Screw 8-32 1/2" counter sink stainless.



Back on the garage floor doing its thing.


Ron Stygar 04-23-2010 09:09 PM

Headlight Washer Cover Info
 

Ron Stygar 04-25-2010 10:22 AM

Fuse access
 

Ron Stygar 06-10-2010 01:42 PM

Hydraulic Stowage Lock
 
1 Attachment(s)

slyswine 07-16-2010 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fbriggs (Post 3280542)
OK..here is how you really change the water pump on a Z4....(E85, m54 motor, mine is a 2.5) I have done this procedure, and all you will need are one water pump with o-ring, two m6x25mm bolts, a gallon of anti-freeze, simple hand tools, a few blocks of wood, a rolling floor jack, and jack stands. It is a good time to replace the belts, so get both of them. Yes, you do have to move the engine..a little.
1. Jack up the car on one side, place a smaller jackstand under the car where the front stabalizer is bolted to the frame. You just need to get the car up enough to remove the front plastic splashpan. Now remove the splashpan, grip it firmly, and toss it at the nearest BMW engineer to show your gratitude for designing a car that has a sheet metal support with webing placed directly infront of the water pump, thereby making it necessary to move the engine in order to remove the water pump, even though there is enough room infront of the sheet metal support to be able to desing it with a slight 1" dip towards the front of the car thereby providing enough clearance to simply remove the water pump unimpeded. Now, jack up the car a little higher, and remove your small jackstand and place a big jackstand (now that you have the clearance) under the car. place the jack on the other side, and jack it up enough to place another large jackstand under the car at the point where the anti-sway bar (stabilizer) bolts to the frame. Now place a rolling floorjack under the engine and place a block of wood between the jack and the oilpan at the front of the engine. Make sure this block of wood is long enough to support the load across the entire width of the oilpan, in order to srpead the weight of the engine across as much of the oilpan as possible, for obvious reasons. You just need to jack it up to meet the oilpan, don't go any higher yet. The reason you do this now is because the underside of the engine will soon become wet with anti-freeze, making everything slippery.
2. Now remove the belt for the A/C compressor (torx bit needed for tensioner)
3. Remove the top plastic (fanshroud?) cover and loosen but don't remove the bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the serpentine belt. 16mm socket for the tensioner.
4. Now remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Tap the pulley gently to get it off. It is made of plastic, so be careful. Remove the 10mm nuts on the water pump. Now install your m6x25mm bolts into the threaded holes on the water pump. Tighten them, and this will remove the water pump from the engine block. The coolant will spill out, but it won't be a lot. Now remove the upper radiator hose only where it connects to the engine by prying the metal clip. Push it up out of the way against the oil filter housing. You can remove the hose before removing the pump, but I did not because it would otherwise make everything wet that I still have to work on.
5. Now remove the nut at the left engine mount. I think it is a 16mm, might have been 15mm.
6. Jack up the engine slowly, but only go up to the point where the engine mounting bolt is just at the lip of the engine mount, where it almost clears the engine mount, but no further. (I would not want to have to line that thing up upon installation. Besides, it is not necessary to go that far.) You should now be able to pull out the water pump going in the direction of the passenger side.
Ta Da! You've now saved your self a lot of money. Now install the new water pump by lubricating the new o-ring with a little ant-freeze on your hand, and install the water pump. Put the car back together. Pour in some anti-freeze. With the car and the heater running, bleed the air out of the cooling system. (With the bleeder screw located next to the resevior cap.) But keep the old water pump. You will need this during your next trip to Germany, when you get the opportunity to throw it at the head of a BMW z4 engineer. This will make them think! It would be different if these water pumps did not fail prematurely.
Hope this helps!

Hi, I have a 2003 Z4 3.0i E85 Chassis with a M54 Engine. I posted back in May the failure of my Cooling System. I was gradually loosing Antifreeze over a few months and then one day the cooling system failed.

I am a true DIY but have significant experience and tools with cars other than a BMW. The forum, especially the above quote from fbriggs, gave me the confidence that the repair was DIW feasible. However the gap between feasibility and reality can be enormous at times. I would like to share my DIY experience and the "crutches" I used to make my fix a success.

When I described my failure on this forum, there were a number of failure scenarios presented based on a number of different cooling components. My serpentine belt had shredded. The first thing I did was remove the remainder of the serpentine belt and remove the intact accessory belt. When checking for failed components, I initially looked for frozen or wobbly pully wheels. Water pump was wobbling all over the place. I looked for leakage around the thermostat and any cracks in the antifreeze reservoir. (With the water pump replaced , I am still looking to verify no leakage at those points)

First, the on line discussions are great if you know the ins and outs of your car. What is lacking is figures to give oneself the confidence that what you are doing is the right thing in the right place. To quell this fear, I relied on the online BMW maintenance manual provided by Mitchell.com . It only costs $11.00 a month to get access to a well described, well illustrated manual so one can feel confident that the forum descriptions are well visualized and confirrmed. You ccan rent the manuals for a day (really cheap), a month or longer. For a cost of a socket, it is well worth the peace of mind.

Second, we all can use a better description of jack support points. I relied on multiple web sources to convince me of the support points on the vehicle to my jacking and jack standing. I didnt have a fancy jack and only felt comfortable working with the 4 visually obvious jack points on the sides of the car. You really dont want to make a mistake at this point in the game and the lack of visuals can give one pause. Also, make sure you always have a buddy system given you are a DIY and some secondary jack stand support points for insurance. Disasters happen and you dont want to be the unlucky one with a low clearance car. One thing I learned by searching on the WEB is if you want to place jack supports for the front, using the rear jack points on the Z4 will lift the whole side and allow you to place a jack stand under the front jack support point.

All in all, the first time BMW DIY'er took the time to not rush, verify each step with some kind of visualization and if something doesnt seem right, ask questions or do more research............DONT FORCE THE ISSUE!!!!!!!!! And as fbriggs said, "save the old water pump to throw at the Z4 Engineer for requiring you to lift the engine 30 cm" and be proud you saved yourself a boatload of money for a $60 replacement part and a few belts. I'll be looking over the next few weeks for any sign of leakage but I certainly feel confident on many DIY repairs going forward now that I feel confident knowing the placement of components of the engine and the chassis. Next fix should be a breeze. Thanks for all who contributed to my questions.

Pete

Ron Stygar 07-30-2010 08:03 AM

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