Drive Train Malfunction
1st POST; If this is a thread elsewhere, I apologize but I could not locate it so here we go ...
2014 w/ REX; 20K miles, I've had it for about 1K.
Went to start it up using normal procedure but as I selected "D" I was momentarily distracted by a person walking past my nose. What happened next is a bit foggy.
i3s are basically silent, right? I'm not sure if I "heard a clunk" or "sensed" one or ... nothing happened at all. The next thing I am as aware of was ... the flashing "P" on the selector & main "in-front" display and a DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION being displayed on the center console telling me to contact ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE which I did (that's another story).
All efforts to "UN-STICK" from PARK have been unsuccessful. The vehicle currently is UNMOVABLE. Luckily it's in a PARK-n-RIDE & not the side of the road. Driveway would be better!
Anyone else experience this? Any thoughts before it gets towed to the dealer? Will getting a decent code reader help? I'm mechanical but pushing 70 so ... more of a GAS guy than an EVer ... HELP PLEASE !
Welcome to Bimmerfest!
I don't know why your first post was moderated, but it was, so it hasn't been visible to anyone but moderators. I approved the posting, so you should now get some replies and help.
Update ... Flatbed tow to local dealership on a Saturday, not looked at until MON/TUE. Diagnosed as ACTUATOR malfunction.
Cost ... either an arm + leg or $2K+.
Wasn't able to get back to the dealership until FRI afternoon. Was ready to authorize work but needed to get something from vehicle. Strangely the car seemed to be exactly where I had left it (kind of in the way) on a VERY crowded lot. Opened the car and thought let's see what happens when I try to start it ... NO MALFUNCTION, it WORKED, went into D&R, both.
Told service rep, he honestly seemed surprised. Decided to forgo repair and drove it home ... No issues. Then went to restart and SAME issue ... DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION.
I don't think the battery has been replaced, could this be ALL a function of the 12v AUX battery getting ready to crap out?
HELP again, please.
THere are various ways to test the 12vdc battery. IF it's original, it might be worth it to just replace as it will probably need it fairly soon, anyway. There's a thread or two around that describes how to do that. When a new battery is installed in a modern BMW, you should 'register' it with the computer so that the charging system can optimize its life. There are places that can do that outside of the dealership. The dealer tends to charge way more than the task requires (about 5-minutes of work to register it). A weak 12vdc battery can cause all sorts of weird things to happen. The ambient temp can make the voltage go up or down, and it may have just been a little warmer when it worked.
Appreciate you comments re: 12v aux battery. Research definitely says NOT to overlook it as a source of just about any issue. Have a FOXWELL NT530 on the way to help diagnosis/reset things.
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