E36 s50b30us long start hard start 318ti
Here we go.
New here so give me a sec to catch my bearings, thanks.
95 318ti, has s50b30us swap.
Car caught fire right around the battery.
It was mainly cosmetic and some minor burning into the harness around the battery.
That issue has been resolved. New wiring harness and intake manifold.
Here is the rub: the car is a hard starting, long cranking bitch! It smelled like fuel something fierce. I inspected all vacuum hose and found several small issues I corrected, I won't bother with those details, those fixes seemed to cure 80% of the fuel smell. Occasionally I would have a back fire during startup.
Ok. Here is where I'm at currently. Still long cranks to start. Has no vacuum leaks, has fuel drainback check valve installed (discovered this on a fuel system leakdown test with guage), checked coolant temp sensor is good, mass air is working, injectors are fine they are not leaking or batch firing. No check engine light. Now, when car starts (you slightly pump the accelerator to start) it's great, no fuel smell or anything.
Why the hell is this thing LONG crank starting? It revs to 2500 when you start and returns to a normal cold idle. I can NOT hear a fuel system prime when you turn the key on to start. Don't know if these are both normal for Beemers or not. Some relays just started clicking today when I turn the key on (fuse panel under hood, never heard them before, car still starts same).
I have tore this apart several times to check harness, vacuum lines, and sensors.
Anything helps! Thanks people!
Try to Pop the Clutch for Comparison
I have a similar issue on my 95 M3. I will write a separate post on it soon. I have a long and hard start condition. Once the car starts, if it does, it runs fine. It starts about 25% of the time when I turn the key to crank it.
However, the car starts right up 100% when I do a rolling start and pop the clutch. I just get it rolling with the key in the ON position (lock, off, ON, start are the 4 positions). When I get enough speed rolling down hill, I put it in 2nd gear, upon releasing the clutch pedal the car fires right up. It fires up so smoothly, I have to look at the tachometer to verify the engine is moving under it's own power.
This leads me to this issue: Why the hard long start while turning key and cranking, while the car will start all the time while popping the clutch?
Ok. I have a possible answer. After many hours of forms and looking in the back pages of the Bently, I have discovered the EWS system and it's less than reliable reputation. With that said I should disclose my ME may be a 318ti M3 Canadian clone. Considering they never released it (318ti) as an m3 in America. Ok.
The EWS system is anti theft. It works in conjunction with your key. If your key does not match or has been damaged or you have an inproper working EWS system, it will kill spark to the engine via the computer. It is the chip in the key that must match the same frequency as the ring on the ignition tumbler and key assembly. If they do not match up for whatever reason, the EWS module sends signal to the computer telling it "no go for spark". Same for starter signal people, 9f the car does not turn over at all, this may also be your issue.
Also to disclose to you that my car has a red lable 413 computer. Some 413 computers were non EWS computers, as I am to understand. If this is your case, as it was mine, I was experiencing very long starts followed by backfires immediately on start, often also followed by short periods of very rich exhaust. After starting car was great, no drivability issues, but would not restart without your foot on the accelerator slightly. This accelerator problem/fix lead me to all my sensors and idle control motor. Even though this (iac) could have been my problem, it was not. I cleaned it and checked it on my multi meter per the Bently specs, which leads me into my real answer.
It's one wire. It's either the Black with Violet wire on late (96-97) harmesses, or the green wire (95). This wire can be found behind the glove box on the EWS plug, or in the engine bay between the brake master cylinder and the fuse box. Just pull back the boot and either depin the wire, or cut and cap both ends. I would highly suggest you check all other options before you do this. Idle air control motor, all sensors, and fuel system components. Along the way here I discovered I had abduek leak down issue having to do with my fuel pump check valve.
So look at your EWS. It may be the issue. It was for me. Now it starts like a champ.
Try switching out the fuel pump relay/fuse. It might be giving low voltage. I switched mine out and it starts up fine.
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