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-   -   Blowing central locking system fuse ???? (https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576070)

540i/msport/ 10-19-2011 03:05 PM

Blowing central locking system fuse ????
 
So I have a 540i that is blowing the #53 fuse in the trunk Wich is the central locking system so my keyless entry won't work ??? Anyone have any ideas on why it's blowing the fuse or have had any experience

edjack 10-19-2011 03:16 PM

Disconnect the fuel door lock and renew the fuse. Report back.

540i/msport/ 10-19-2011 08:47 PM

Your a genius !!!! Edjack

bluebee 10-19-2011 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edjack (Post 6389838)
Disconnect the fuel door lock and renew the fuse. Report back.

Hi Ed,

What does that mean to 'disconnect the fuel door lock"?

I guess there is a harness connector in the battery compartment which is connected to the fuel door lock ... so I'm guessing the suggestion is to pull that harness connector off it's connection. Right?

If so, is the assumption that the lock is providing a low-resistance path (i.e., short) to ground?

I would have told the guy to check his trunk loom.

Specifically, given disconnecting the lock switch apparently worked, I'd have him check the two wires:
  • Gray/yellow line = 3 @ 1377 -> trunk lid locking switch (open signal)
  • Brown = 1 @ x1377 -> trunk lid locking switch (open signal)
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1263004019

chiefwej 10-19-2011 11:42 PM

Blue,
The gas door actuator solenoid hangs up and the power draw blows the fuse. I was able to clean and lube mine with a bit of WD-40 and get it back in service. But if that doesn't work, one can just leave it unplugged and restore the fuse. You will have your locking system back less the locking gas door.

540i/msport/ 10-20-2011 05:47 AM

I assumed ed met disconnect the plug going to the fuel door actuator so I did ... Replaced the fuse ... Reattached the connector and now everything work perfect including the fuel door

bluebee 10-20-2011 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiefwej (Post 6390844)
The gas door actuator solenoid hangs up and the power draw blows the fuse.

Interesting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 540i/msport/ (Post 6390986)
I assumed ed met disconnect the plug going to the fuel door actuator so I did ... Replaced the fuse ... Reattached the connector and now everything work perfect including the fuel door

Thanks for the update. Much appreciated. Hopefully, we learn from everyone else's experiences before it happens (eventually) to us!

Do you have a picture of this connector? Where is it found?

QSilver7 10-20-2011 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebee (Post 6391157)
...Do you have a picture of this connector? Where is it found?

The fuel door actuator is basically in the same location/vicinity on the e38 & e39. In the pic below (from an e38)...you can see the fuel door actuator which has been unscrewed from it's mounting location and turned around...you should be able to discern the electrical connector running to it on the left side in the pic below...but remember...the actuator has been TURNED around in the pic...so everything is on the opposite side of when it is MOUNTED:


bobdmac 10-21-2011 11:48 AM

When I took my car for a pre-purchase inspection, the remote didn't work. The indy shop recognized that the fuse was blown and told me that the fuel door solenoid was a known problem. They replaced the fuse, my fuel door is now unlocked, and the remote works. I'm happy.

bluebee 03-13-2013 06:40 PM

For the crosslinked record, this was posted today:
Quote:

Originally Posted by moosewks (Post 7440944)
Since i have used the forum for a long while, i thought i would "give back" some of my recent experiences..

1) CLS: Central Locking System failure.. Diagnostics showed clear, so the tech's thought all my keys (3x) were bad due to the age and faulty batteries.. so, i paid for a nice new key ($250/ea)..
2) Discovered that the EWS module, Xmitter, and new+old keys are not the issue.. F53 was blown (CLS Fuse) and thus killed remote entry, trunk operations, etc.. after a closer look, the fuel door flap lock motor was the issue (~$43 Rock Auto) and would blow the fuse.. say what? i totally forgot about this little gimmic and should have known better!

Fuel door lock is on the passenger side batter compartment.. pls check operation next time you have an apparently confounded CLS operation problem.. this situation seems plain enough as written, but baffled a few highly competent techs for a bit..


malex992000 03-28-2013 08:07 PM

Resolving my Central Locking System issue
 
Finally decided to troubleshoot my key remote after a little over 2 years if it not working(bought the car like that). I was told that it could either be the key or the xmitter (from a BMW service manager) and I can troubleshoot it (for $150) :bs: or just order a new key (also $150) and hope because if they test it and realize it was the key, that would be a total of $300 :eek: After testing my key for an RF signal at AutoZone (for FREE!!!) at one of those little kiosk things, I pretty much knew that it wasnt my key. So I figured I would finally do some research.

After checking the fuses last night in my trunk and in the glove box (they were good) and not resolving the issue, I thought "great! why couldn't my issue be a simple 'bad fuse' like so many others." Anyway, I continued researching it and came across this thread.
After reading it…
I disconnected the fuel door solenoid and tried reinitializing the key... no go
Figured that I would replace the fuses anyway even after they ohmed good the night before and reinitialized the keys... "BOOM!!!" It worked. :D

I wanted to know if it was the fuses or the fuel door so I reconnected it…and it still worked. Okay so I put the old fuses back…still worked!!?! Whaaaat??? :eeps: I'm happy anyway and figured that I would post and mention it.

Don't stop at just testing your fuses…replace them anyway and see what happens. I'm not totally sure what happened in my case but I think it definitely had to do with disconnecting that fuel door soleniod.

I love this forum!!!! you guys rock :thumbup:

bluebee 03-29-2014 03:31 PM

There is good information from saint Q on the fuel filler door actuation here today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Locking Gas Door? Optional?


Quote:

Originally Posted by QSilver7 (Post 8243619)
See the 1st, 2nd, & 3rd sentences in the 2nd paragraph in POST #7 above in regards as how to engage the fuel filler flap lock.

A picture of your fuel filler door would be more helpful in determining if you're missing parts because I'm even more confused as to your situation based on the images & questions you asked. :)

Did you check to see if PO unplugged the fuel flap actuator? Again, check back to post #7...there's an image of the fuel flap actuator and the black mounting support it's attached to. I even explained that the actuator (in the pic) is dismounted and turned around so that you can see it...as it is installed to the fender above the battery...all you will see is the black mounting plate that it's attached to.

In the diagram in POST #7 (and below)...you can see the bowden cable (#22) that runs from the actuator to the sleeve (#16). The sleeve will be on the left when you open the fuel filler flap door. The actuator pushes the end of the bowden cable into the cap (#14) on the fuel filler flap (not the green thing you mentioned which holds the fuel filler lid)...but the other small cap on the flap that meets the sleeve when the flap is closed.


Since I was confused by your multiple mention of the green cap that holds the gas cap...Im posting an image of my e38's fuel filler flap which is almost the same...but moreso, you can easily distinguish how the flap is secured...which you can transfer the design to how your e39 flap gets locked:

the actuator pushes out the bowden cable through the sleeve on the fender's left side of the flap opening (look just behind the half-moon stopper that keeps the flap flush with the fender when closed)...and into the black cap you see on the right (looks similar to the green thingy you kept referring to on the e39 that holds the gas cap). Ignore the other stuff on the inside of the flap door...it doesn't apply to your e39...my 97 e38 has a totally different gas cap holder:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q...%20Cap%202.JPG

If you're missing any of these parts, just go to the part nbr index below the diagram and get the 11 digit BMW part nbr. Once you have the part nbr, its easy to shop...you can google BMW xx xx x xxx xxx (where x = BMW part nbr) and find many vendors selling the part...or go to your local BMW dealer's part dept for items too small & specific to be sold by after market vendors.

In the pic you posted above...item #29 is the green cap tha holds the gas cap & #14 is the black cap that receives the fuel filler flap's locking bowden cable:


bluebee 10-21-2014 10:36 AM

This came up today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > electrical

Quote:

Originally Posted by thepipeotter (Post 8658153)
Hi Guys I have a very strange thing happening the last two weeks, when I disarm the alarm in the morning I get a loud buzzing for around 30 sec from the rear of the car, then it stops, the only thing around that area seems to be the fuel sender unit and pump, the car is a 1997 E39 Estate 528i with 182.000k on the clock apart from this the car runs great, any ideas out there :tsk:

Quote:

Originally Posted by edjack (Post 8658570)
Disconnect the fuel door lock and observe the result.


bluebee 04-15-2015 05:05 PM

This related thread, by way of cross reference, was updated today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Fuse 53 keeps blowing


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