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Specific question: How to get the viscous fan clutch nut on straight (it's crooked)

25K views 47 replies 17 participants last post by  bluebee 
#1 ·
Specific question: How to get the viscous fan clutch nut on straight?

I asked in the alternator thread 12 hours ago but nobody responded, probably because it's buried in the details ... but I'm stymied at the moment.

Q1: Is there a nut I can buy that has the same threads so I can "clean up" the stripped thread at the very end of the fan hub (presumably on the waterpump)?

Q2: How can I get the fan clutch nut to spin with the fan temporarily so that I can get the fan clutch nut on "by hand".

DETAILS:
The problem is that the fan clutch nut doesn't spin with the fan and you can't get your fingers on the clutch nut to spin it on the water pump by hand. So you have to spin it on with the 32mm thin wrench.

But, it's heavy, you're holding it from the top, the shroud is in the way, and it invariably goes on crooked! :(

What the trick?

How can I lock the fan to the fan clutch nut temporarily so I can spin it on straight by hand before using the 32mm wrench?

 
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#4 ·

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#5 · (Edited)
I failed.

It's not that cn90's string-on-the-fan-nut trick isn't spot on; it is! I held the heavy unwieldy viscous fan in one hand and the nut slow spun perfectly with the string!

Cn90's approach felt wonderfully easier than the dismal method I tried yesterday of barely holding the unwieldy fan with the fingers of one hand in the tight crevice and spinning the nut on with the wrench in the other hand in a different slot of the crevice (snapping photos with my third hand and my fourth hand holding the light so I could see at night).

My problem now is that the first thread or two of the water pump is stripped (I can feel the sharp edge with my finger).

If I had the right size die I could clean the threads up a bit (I really do NOT want to do a cooling system overhaul at this time because I just put everything back together!).

I'll wager this is the first time this question has been asked on bimmerfest!

QUESTION:
What is the water pump thread thread size (and where can I get that special die?)

 

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#7 · (Edited)
Threads can be straightened out with a thread file.
OMG. I never heard of a thread file before! It sounds like a good idea because it sounds like it might be able to handle reverse threads and forward threads whereas a single die couldn't do both.

Do you think one thread file can handle both reverse threaded and forward threaded threads?


 

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#8 ·
What DHoang said... If you've only damaged the first couple threads on the water pump, chances are you can use a small file to "rebuild" the thread tracks. I'd try that before buying a new water pump. Getting a 32 mm thread die might be expensive and hard to align/use.

I haven't tried CN90's idea (but I like it). I've had good luck so far re-attaching the clutch fan to the WP. I worked from above the installed shroud, with my right hand reaching in and holding the fan as "straight" as I can see, on the WP threads, and my left hand using the 32 mm open-end wrench to slowly get things started. It only seems to take about half a turn for the fan to hold and let me start spinning it to screw itself onto the WP the rest of the way. That's the trouble spot though; it takes me about five attempts but altogether that's less than a couple minutes....persistence pays.
 
#13 · (Edited)
If you've only damaged the first couple threads on the water pump... Getting a 32 mm thread die
Yes, it's only the first thread or two (I can feel the sharp edges).

I don't mind buying a reverse die but I don't know the size.

Do you KNOW that it's 32mm? Do we have any idea on the pitch?


 

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#9 ·
Are you sure the threads are stripped?

If you didn't drop the water pump on it's shaft end ... I would suspect they are fine.

[The water pump shaft thread] Where the thread begins on the shaft, when screwing on the nut/coupler, does not have the same engagement "feel" as a regular nut on a bolt.

I don't use a string when reinstalling the fan.

My method: (use at your own risk ;-) )

1. locate the thread beginning on the water pump shaft visually (rotate to approximately 12:00 position)
2. using both hand, hold fan suspended so that nut on viscous coupling (VC) is square to the end of the water pump shaft (this can be tricky)
3. rotate fan clockwise (thread won't engage b/c is left hand thread) while gently pressing VC Nut against the end of the shaft (pass blades hand to hand)

* You'll feel the nut rotate over the end of the threads (sort of like when you undo a soda bottle cap and it is unscrewed but not off ... if you continue to rotate it .. it "hops" over the end of the thread)

4. once you've gotten to this point, while gently pressing the fan/VC/nut onto the shaft, maintaining it as perpendicular as you can, reverse threading direction (go counter-clockwise) and you should feel the threads start to engage.

5. if they have "caught" = great. spin fan on by hand in a counter-clockwise direction 'til snug. Engine rotation will tighten it after starting.

Good luck.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Are you sure the threads are stripped?
Only the first or second thread is stripped. The rest are fine. The string method by CN90 puts no gravity stress whatsoever and spins the nut perfectly; but since the first two threads are toast, it won't spin on straight. :(

If you didn't drop the water pump on it's shaft end ... I would suspect they are fine.
I never removed the pump. I had replaced the alternator (see here). The fan was left in the fan shroud so nothing dropped. I just put the fan nut on crooked the first time (before I learned of cn90's magic string trick).

3. rotate fan clockwise (thread won't engage b/c is left hand thread)
Interesting trick. I'll try that, but, I think I need to clean up the threads first.

Right now I've called Home Depot, ACE, OSH, and none of them have a metric thread file. They have taps and dies, but, I don't know what size die to ask for.

Is it 32mm by ?

 

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#10 ·
Ensure you are holding the fan square on the face of the thread, then rotate fan slightly clockwise and then rotate back counterclockwise and spin fan until snug, works for me everytime.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Every tool box needs one of these.
Correct, every tool box needs TWO of these (one metric, one SAE). :)

I'm calling around frantically to see if anyone has either the metric thread file in stock nearby or the 32mm left-hand die (not sure what thread pitch yet).

So far, no luck ... am still calling ... even tried the industrial supply houses in San Jose, Granger, namely White Caps, Mister Metric, etc., to no avail.

We should find a good mail-order supply for these thread files ...

 

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#12 ·
Yes, it's just like fishing, got to hold your mouth just right! I've just gotten lucky after a couple of attempts of holding the fan with my left hand and turning the nut with my right hand using a wrench. If the threads bunged up you could use a small file, called needle files I beleive, to dress them up. I have a set of them in all shapes.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Sorry I don't know the exact thread size, I carelessly typed 32 mm because that's the outside bolt/wrench size (d'oh!).

If it were me, I'd just work on one damaged thread at a time with a small triangular jewelers file (about $3 from any jeweler/lapidary supply).


Went and measured the thread on my old WP.....

Nominal OD is 24 mm and thread pitch is 1.5, so ....

M24 X 1.5, I'm guessing.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Nominal OD is 24 mm and thread pitch is 1.5, so ....M24 X 1.5, I'm guessing.
That's what I was looking for! Someone with an old water pump in hand. I have been working in it for the past few hours and did not see your post until now.

I ended up following the Beisan thread for removal of the fan shroud to gain access to the water pump shaft to clean up the threads. I broke a nipple in the process, found a hose about ready to blow, and lost a plastic rivet set; but other than that, it was uneventful. :)

I measured the shaft with my SAE micrometer at 0.939 inches in diameter (23.85 mm) at the outer tip of the threads so that correlates with 24mm which would be 0.945 inches. I also measured a pitch of 1.5 since 1.75 was too big and 1.25 was too small. I didn't know if the reverse (left hand) threads would matter to my pitch gauge or not.

BTW, I called every hardware store in San Jose, Campbell, Saratoga, Milpitas, Sunnyvale, etc., even the construction ones like White Caps, Granger, and Mister Metric, and others ... and none had left-hand dies in stock nor did they have a metric thread file! :(

Almost anti-climatically, with room to spare, I easily spun the fan on straight by holding the fan steady and turning the water pump by hand (pictures to follow). I didn't even have to clean up the threads.

Note: I found this very similar thread searching for information later ... they say it's an M25 (not an M24) thread!

 

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#19 ·
Hose about to blow, huh? Then your troubles with the clutch fan may have been a blessing in disguise.

As to thread pitch etc., if you end up finding a reverse-thread M24x1.5 die, chances are it will cost more than a new water pump with pristine threads.

If you already got the clutch fan nut on the WP straight by turning the WP, my question: Do you have the main belt off?
 
#20 · (Edited)
Do you have the main belt off?
Yes.

Previously, I had the new alternator back on, the new tensioners back on, both new belts back on, and I was just putting the fan back on when I damaged the first or second thread on the water pump, causing the fan to always screw on crooked.

I think it went on crooked because I had so little room, and, therefore, against my own better judgement, I used a 32mm wrench to spin the nut on as I didn't know about the two "tricks" known to me now:
TRICK 1: cn90 string on a nut method
TRICK 2: Turn it the wrong way first (to trick it); and then the right way

Anyway, at this point, I've put the nut on and off a few times and it seems to go on correctly. But, I broke a nipple in the radiator and I found a hose about to blow (pictures taken but will post soon) so methinks I'm looking at an impromptu cooling system overhaul. Only I don't have any parts. :(

 

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#21 ·
Blue, I posted a way to do this on your other thread. Don't sweat using a wrench on the nut. You can feel if you are forcing and cross-threading it or not. If you are able to feel buggered up thread at the end, take a piece of emory cloth about 16" long 3/4" wide and work it back and forth on just the end threads. Making the ridges a tad smaller won't hurt anything and you will knock off those sharp burrs. There just is not enough room to get your fingers in there so a box wrench can be used. Despite what you were told, the sky is not falling. If you can line up the blade square sometimes a light rap with a rubber mallet can get the nut past the bad threads. The key is to FEEL as you tighten for cross-threading. You'll get it. A second pair of hands to hold the fan square and straight and with steady pressure forward while you turn the nut LIGHTLY with a wrench. G/L

Forget the die- it will be $50 if you could find one. A machinist (real one-like a tool and die maker) would have that nut on in 30 seconds with a file or a hacksaw blade
 
#24 ·
take a piece of emory cloth about 16" long 3/4" wide and work it back and forth on just the end threads. Making the ridges a tad smaller won't hurt anything and you will knock off those sharp burrs.
Hi Bill,

Once I resigned myself to removing the fan shroud (and breaking a nipple in the process) I was AMAZED at how much more room (comparatively) there was to work on the water pump threads.

It was quite easy to do as you said, and clean up the threads. Now the threads look pristine. I think the whole problem was my "technique" was lacking, and the "bent" threads were sending the nut the wrong way.

Now the nut is clean and pristine!

 

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#25 ·
Yeah. Go blue go to the auto parts store and buy an entire replacement cooling system! :(

Here's a shot of the broken nipple ...

I need to do a search to find out how "severe" or "tame" this particular faux pas is (it's one of the reasons I didn't want to remove the fan shroud in the first place).

 

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#26 · (Edited)
#27 · (Edited)
There was a recent tread on replacing that piece. It only cost a couple bucks from the dealer and is easily replaced.
Hi Chief,
It's almost 1:30 am (and too dark to break more things in my E39); so I've been searching and reading up on this nipple.
- 5-series DIY radiator nipple
- Can the nipple be replaced separately?
- Can my nipple be fixed
- Snapped off the radiator nipple
- Belt replacement mishap (snapped the nipple off)
- Fixing idler pulley - broke the nipple from the overflow tube to the radiator
- Belts, thermostat, & waterpump DIY (what if you break the nipple)
- etc.

What I find is it often breaks in the Behr OEM radiator, specifically at exactly where mine broke (a weak point in the Behr OEM design). It can be replaced in the Behr OEM radiator (which I have) but it's generally recommended to replace the whole radiator with a Nissens (which I'm likely to do) ... and the Nissens reputedly has a stronger nipple (need confirmation of that though).

Nonetheless, whether or not I replace my radiator ... it's STILL IMPORTANT for us to have a safe removal procedure for this factory nipple. Why? Because the Beisan fan shroud DIY says to destroy the factory clamp; but in that process, once can easily destroy the nipple. It may very well be better for us to modify the Beisan DIY steps to safely remove the nipple instead of destroying the factory clamp. This has the added benefit of not needing a new clamp (which might leak) when you're done. So it's important if we can come up with a good DIY for removing the nipple. Note, the "DIYs" in the above references are a start, but, in a word, they stink (although there is some weird discussion of using a 10mm nut on a string which I didn't quite get).

QUESTION:
Does anyone have a better DIY for safe removal of this nipple?


THE REASON IT MATTERS:
When people are following the Beisan DIY to just remove the fan shroud, they are told to destroy the factory clamp; which, likely as not, will actually destroy the nipple. It may very well be that it's SAFER to try to remove the nipple than it is to destroy the factory clamp. But we need safe nipple removal procedures before we can modify the shroud-removal DIYs.

 

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#28 · (Edited)
Results of using a thread file to clean up the water pump shaft threads

I picked up a complete thread-chasing kit containing a metric 1.50 thread pitch file and cleaned up the water pump shaft threads a bit.

My observations are:
- Overall, the thread file was a bit difficult to use in the enclosed space
- It worked; but I think the water pump nut cleaned the threads also



UPDATE: I opened a separate thread asking for a method of non-destructive nipple removal.
 

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#29 ·
To report back my results, after removing the fan shroud and cleaning up the threads, the fan clutch nut went right on using the cn90 patented rawhide string method!

It took something like less than 30 seconds this time!

Here's the (text for now) DIY:

REMOVE SHROUD:

(Reference: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/e39_fan_procedure.htm )

- Raise the E39 with a jack and put on jack stands (or ramps)
- Remove the under-engine shroud pan (nine #2 Phillips one-twist bolts)
- Draw the hose sequence or snap photos of the underside shroud hose routing.
- Protect your eyes from falling dust with goggles (I didn't and wished I did).
- Locate the auxiliary pump at the bottom driver-side corner of the shroud.
- Disconnect the press-pull auxiliary coolant pump electrical connector
- Slide the auxiliary pump toward the center of the radiator out of the
fan shroud sleeve by lining up the hose in the clamp and tugging gently
- From above, follow the smaller of the two power steering hoses down
until you reach a hose-to-hose clip shared with one of the radiator
hoses; disconnect the radiator hose side of this clip and make a note
of the location of the clip as it will move once you disconnect it.
- From below, for the upper of the two expansion tank hoses only,
working your way from the passengers side to the drivers side,
disconnect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud; then
disconnect the one clip at the back of the fan shroud facing the engine.
- From below, for the lower of the two expansion tank hoses, working
your way from the passenger side to the drivers side, disconnect
the three clips on the bottom of the fan shroud and then disconnect
the one clip on the side of the fan shroud.
- Mark with whiteout or nail polish or chalk where the clips line up
with the hoses once the hoses are out (you'll see the indentations).
Later you'll use these marks for reference or you'll transfer these
marks to the new hoses in the same position.
- From above, follow the wire out of the auxiliary water pump to the
AUC (stink) Automatic Air Recirculation sensor on the driver's side in
front of the alternator
just under the upper radiator hose elbow. Notice the orientation of
this AUC sensor (electrical connector up, embossed lettering outward).
You'll need that information for reassembly.
- Press the plastic clip on the stink sensor connector and pull up to
remove the AUC sensor from the fan shroud.
- Remove the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch AUC sensor housing
by wiggling and coercing it, mostly pushing up from the bottom of
the AUC sensor housing and pulling the top of the AUC sensor housing
away from the shroud. Then, once it's a bit loose, switch directions
of force by pushing down on the AUC sensor housing, pulling the bottom
of the AUC sensor housing away from the shroud. You have to just do it.
- Place the AUC sensor housing in your parts bin.
- With a 3/16th flathead screwdriver pry out (only) the (center)
plastic rivet pin on the driver's side of the shroud near the upper
hose until you can get needle nose pliers on it to pull that center
pin out. Then pry out the base surrounding the center pin.
- Likewise, remove the rivet to the side of the expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- With two screwdrivers, pry up the escutcheon around the bleeder screw
next to the expansion tank filler cap (that has the words ENTLUFTUNG
molded into the top) and remove the escutcheon.
- Replace the expansion tank filler cap.
- Study how the M-shaped rubber seal at the top of the fan shroud sits.
- Pull up on the two-foot long M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud.
- Lift the fan shroud up and to the rear of the car; you'll get about 4
inches of room to see the small hose that goes across from the expansion
tank to a nipple on the drivers side.
- BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE NEXT STEP (I broke the nipple right off!)
- The Beisan DIY tells you to pry open the original clamp next to the nipple
on the driver's side, so that you can remove the hose. I disagree. You do
not want to put ANY pressure on that brittle nipple. If you must remove
the factory clamp, dremel it off at the point ABOVE the hoses. Better
yet, leave the factory clamp on & remove the entire nipple (gently).
- The nipple often snaps in half right at the edge of the groove for
the o-ring. In addition the groove for the o-ring molded in has sharp
corners rather than a rounded groove, further weakening the part such that
it often snaps when working around it. Some report removing the old nipple
with a 10mm socket pushed into the upper radiator hose opening, and pushed
it on to the "clipped" end to push it closed enough so that it can be pried
out of the radiator (putting a string on the socket in case it fell into
the radiator).
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1943285&postcount=16
- Remove the fan clutch nut (see separate instructions) with 32mm fan clutch
nut wrench (1 1/4") and 48-mm hole spacing fan hub bolt counterhold tool.
- Lift fan shroud and pull fan out toward driver tilting and wiggling
as necessary to get the fan out of the shroud; it will come out aiming
at the driver's steering wheel.
- Beisan says to remove the fan shroud from the engine bay at this point
but I don't see how you can with the expansion tank, it's three hoses,
and the electrical connector on the bottom still connected to the
expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove expansion tank bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Take a good long hard look at how the expansion tank hoses snap into
the shroud at the bottom of the expansion tank (you'll need that later
when you put them back).
- Dislodge the expansion tank from the fan shroud by pulling the top
toward the windshield about a half inch away from the top of the fan
shroud; dislodge the two hoses at the bottom from the fan shroud.
- Replace the bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Pull the drivers side of the fan shroud up and at the same time pull
the bottom hoses of the expansion tank away from the fan shroud.
- Pull the upper expansion tank house through the tunnel in the
fan so that it is not impeding removal of the fan shroud
- Finally, remove the shroud from the engine bay, leaving the expansion
tank still connected to the car.
- Disconnect the frail-looking electrical connector from the bottom of
the expansion tank.
- The Beisans say to place the expansion tank at a high location in the
engine bay but that only made my broken nipple leak more so I put it
at about the same level it was prior.
- As per the Beisans, I tried to keep the expansion tank overflow hose
high to keep coolant from draining out but whenever I raised the expansion
tank, coolant drained out of the broken nipple on the radiator anyway.
Eventually, while I was working on putting the fan on the water
pump, the expansion tank fell to the floor with a full thud, and
I had to jam a branch of wood from my plants into the broken nipple
end on the end of the hose to stave the bleeding mess.
- At this point, the fan is off, the shroud is off, and the expansion
tank is connected but lying on the ground.
- Voila! I have access now to the water pump bolt!

REPLACE SHROUD:
Make sure your original belt diagram is handy (you'll refer to it a lot!).

- Put the altnerator/ps/wp serpentine belt back on as before, this time
using the pin to keep tension off the belt while your fingers are in there.
If there's any slack, you put it on wrong (ask me how I know).
Again, the original paper diagram is invaluable!

- When the alt/ps/wp belt is as aligned as you can get it with the set pin
in the upper tensioner, only then should you remove the set pin and align
the last inch of the belt on the pulleys just right by turning clockwise
with the 16mm socket wrench on the alt/psp/wp mechanical tensioner.

- Clean the expansion tank coolant temperature sensor electrical connector
with MAF sensor cleaner (xylene) and when dry, add a dab of dialectric grease.

- Reconnect the expansion tank coolant temperature sensor connector but don't
make the mistake I made which was to connect with the wires above the ac
hose; the wires must be below the ac hose.

- Rethread the expansion tank overflow hose through the top of the fan shroud

- Reconnect the nipple and pipe clamp. Don't make the mistake I did, thinking I could leave this for later because as soon as I removed the bleed screw in the expansion tank, fluid leaked out of the radiator hole due to the expansion tank being above that hole. When you press the nipple down into the radiator, make sure it goes all the way until the seam is small (I used a soft rubber mallet).

- Make sure the hose-clamp bolt is at south position, closest to the radiator and furthest from the fan shroud. I used a 7mm quarter-inch socket for security when tightening.

-. Place the shroud approximately in place with the drivers side up about six inches higher and replace the expansion tank hoses (I struggled for half an hour trying to get the two hoses in the bottom of the expansion tank to snap back into place). Finally I re-removed the bleeder screw, tilted the expansion tank about 1/2 inch at the top away from the fan shroud, and snap, the bottom hoses snapped into place instantly. Lesson learned.

-. Replace the bleeder screw using a P3 Phillips screwdriver.

-. Tape and wrap about 2 feet of rawhide on the fan nut.

-. Place fan clutch assembly inside the fan shroud.

-. Position fan shroud as close to perfect on the top and put on eye protection and then go down underneath the car to move hoses about and position the fan shroud back in the two (2) plastic clips at the bottom and one in each bottom corner (2). There is a clip on the sides (2), about a third of the way up, and a clip near the top on the sides (2) for a total of about 8 clips.

-. Unfortunately for me, my carful taping of the fan clutch fell off when I tried to keep the heavy fan out of my way by tying it to the car. Lesson learned. Don't try that.

-. Retaping the rawhide on from the driver's side (there is no access on the passenger side of the fan shroud due to the fact the expansion tank is now firmly in) and wrapping it around the fan clutch nut, it was easy to spin the fan on straight; took less than a minute to get the fan nut spun onto five or six threads until it almost bottomed on the shoulder of the water pump shaft.

-. When the string falls off, tighten the nut (counter clockwise) by holding the fan with your left hand and turning the 32 mm wrench counter clockwise (the water pump hub won't spin due to belt tension). After about 10, fifteen degree twists of the 32mm wrench, you'll feel the nut tighten and the water pump hub will finally move.

-. Bringing the 45-mm hole spacing counterhold tool from the driver's side, UNDER the upper hose (it won't work any other way), twist the fan hub with the 32mm wrench until the right set of holes seats in the hole and slot of the counterhold tool. Tighten as desired. (Personally, I couldn't get more than a couple of degrees of movement.)

-. Nudge the fan shroud into its final seating position, taking care to inspect the two rivet holes at top (2), the clips on the bottom third on the side (2), the clips at each bottom corner (2) and the two clips on the bottom (2) for a total of 8 clips.

-. The top should be aligned so that you can replace the two-foot long rubber M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud. Press along the entire lenght of both channels of the M-shaped seal to confirm proper positioning.

-. Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.

-. Align the two clips and the word ENTLUFTUNG for the escutcheon that goes around the bleeder screw next to the expansion tank filler cap. and snap into place by wiggling the expansion tand and fan shroud as you press down on the excutcheon.

-. Replace expansion tank filler cap.

-. From above, replace the plastic rivets at each corner of the shroud.

-. Pick up the AUC sensor housing out of your parts box and locate the holes in the fan shroud just below the upper radiator hose elbow where it snaps into place on the fan shroud.

-. Orient the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch automatic air recirculation AUC sensor housing with the electrical connector facing upwards and the embossed letters facing to the driver's side outside of the car. Notice the hooks at the top of the housing face down and the hooks on the bottom face up, while the flap at the very bottom opens horizontally. Place the two bottom hooks in first, then lift up while pressing in so that you can place the top hooks next. The bottom flap should land over the bottom shelf of the fan shroud connection point. At this point, I noticed my bottom shelf was broken, probably when I manhandled the AUC out the first time.

- Place a dab of dialectric grease in the electrical connector for the AUC and connect the AUC sensor wiring connector making sure to keep the wires below the upper radiator hose elbow.

- From above, locate the electrical connector for the auxiliary pump and place a dab of dialectric grease on the connector before feeding it down dangling to where you can reach it below.

- From underneath, align the auxiliary pump with its holder on the fan shroud and slide in from the center toward the drivers side until the marks you made prior on the hose align with the clips on the fan shroud.

- Press the electrical connector for the auxiliary fan onto the auxiliary fan until you hear it click tight.

- From above, follow the smaller of the two lines eminating from the bottom of the power steering reservoir to the hose-to-hose clip for the lower expansion tank hose and connect the two hoses together at the point noted before you originally removed this clip.

- From below, for the lower expansion tank hose only, working your way from the drivers side to the passenger side, connect the clip on the side of the fan shroud; and lastly connect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud.

- From below, for the upper of the two expansion tank hoses only, working your way from the drivers side to the passenger side, connect the clip on the edge of the fan shroud facing the engine; and then connect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud.

- Voila! The fan shroud is now reattached.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Thaks George.

The local indy told me all I need to do is remove the 2 expanding rivets, and the shroud will lift up.
Once it lifts, I can try to disconnect the expansion tank hose? Is that all I need to do to get more access to the fan and pulleys?
Did you fully remove the shroud, or just lift it a little?

What is the 4 screen DIY monstrocity above for, in that case?
(I can't even begin to decipher it, with that formatting)
 
#39 ·
To give credit where credit is due, Fudman and I both applaud Cam!
Just to give credit where credit is due, this tip originated with Cnn, not me! Thanx, Cam!
 
#41 ·
????

Anyway, I came here just now to cross reference an interesting test by Teklord69 who has been driving a while now, as a test, without any fan clutch whatsoever, and, who has "modified" his fan shroud, for each on/off of the fan clutch itself:
- My new fan shroud "mod"
 
#42 ·
I came up with a little trick for reinstalling the fan/clutch assembly to the water pump bolt. Before reinstalling the fan shroud and upper coolant hoses, go in and figure out EXACTLY when the nut on the fan/clutch assembly begins to 'catch' and mark or note that position of the nut relative to the bolt. If you get the bolt and nut in the right position, you can almost 'hang' the nut's thread on the bolt. Actually do this BEFORE putting the shroud back on, and rehearse spinning it on, lefty/reverse.

Remember when you made the mark on the nut on top where the nut was in the correct position to hang the assembly on the bolt? Now, you will do that AFTER you've lowered the fan into position with the shroud loosely around it.

I hope that this has made this clear enough to help. It's a knack that you'll be wise to learn...

Jimmy
 
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