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AAA is towing my car in 30 minutes (total electrical failure)

125K views 220 replies 53 participants last post by  Silver-E39 
#1 ·
AAA is towing my car in 30 minutes (total electrical failure). :(

Unfolding story:
- E39 wouldn't start this morning for some reason (unknown);
- Charged with a battery charger for 1/2 hour; car started fine;
- No lights on the dash whatsoever; no abnormal running
- Drove 25 miles; enough to charge battery; shut down car;
- Car would not start. Nothing. Got another jump from a passerby;
- With jumpers, car started in seconds; didn't even sound groany;
- No indicator lights; can't tell if battery indicator is green/yellow/black;
- Looks black but you can't get your head inside the trunk to really see;
- Drove car heading home for about 15 miles; But then ...
- Radio started cutting in and out;
- Red battery symbol showed up on dash for the first time;
- TRANS FAILSAFE PROGRAM flashed on the cluster a minute before it died;
- Car died midway in the road; luckily I was able to roll off to the side;
- Got a jump from a passerby; let it sit charging the battery for 5 min;
- Passerby had to go; started driving; red battery light is lit solid;
- E39 didn't get a half mile; stumbled; and then just shut down;
- Pulled over to the side; called a friend; she picked me up;
- Called AAA; they're on the way (will have to go back out to car).

Will research, after they tow me, whether it's:
- Alternator perhaps not charging (but why the red light so late?)
- Battery bad (new BMW battery in 2008); no sign of deterioration
- FSU was replaced in 2008 or 2009 (no signs of erratic A/C blower)
- ???

Will need debugging hints. TIA
 
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#103 ·
Tensioner hints for the next person (and for an idealized DIY)

For the next person, here are some lessons learned about the confusing inconsistencies that caught me about the opposite nature of the pin and the tensioners (I learned, after the fact). :(

The SIZE of the tensioner temporary hold-fast pin:
- A 5mm allen wrench fits; 6mm does not fit
- A 3/16ths allen wrench fits; 7/32ths does not
Note: The L-shaped steel pin from the factory tensioner is 11/64ths round.

The hold-fast-pin status in order to ACCESS removal bolts:
- Upper mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF (no pin needed to remove tensioner)
- Lower mechanical tensioner: Pin ON (pin is required to remove tensioner)

The hold-fast-pin status (just) before you REMOVE the tensioner:
- Upper mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF
- Lower mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF (remove with bolts loosely secured)

The hold-fast-pin status on the NEW mechanical tensioners:
- Upper mechanical tensioner: Pin OFF (it does not come with a pin)
- Lower mechanical tensioner: Pin ON (it comes with the pin in place)

 

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#104 ·
I'm currently stuck because the last thread or two is stripped such that the fan keeps going on crooked.

Had I known about cn90's wonderful "trick" to get the fan nut on (cn90 fan-nut DIY here), I would not have stripped the water pump shaft outer thread or two.

Rather than rip it all down again (and wait for a new waterpump and fan and, while I'm at it, an entire very unplanned cooling system overhaul) ... I would rather just buy a (reverse threaded) tap for the water pump threads (or maybe even this thread file which I was pointed to by Dhoang).

QUESTION:
Q: Does anyone know the thread size for the water pump shaft?

 

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#105 ·
Blue, had no idea you were going through all this! Give you lotta credit for tackling. If you have "buggered-up" the last couple threads in the water-pump, you can generally look at the threads visually and see which one is rolled and repair with a file. I can almost guarantee you if you had an extra set of hands to hold the fan blade perfectly straight while simultaneously turning the nut CC with a box wrench, the nut will catch without cross-threading.

Keep in mind this about batteries and chargers which is all an alternator is. The battery has a voltage "potential" which is determined when it is made. You generally have 6-2.1V cells inside the battery all in parallel to give the battery 12.6VDC "potential". In order to charge a battery, the charging device must put out more voltage than the potential of what it is charging. Without any difference between the battery voltage and the charger voltage, no current (amps) can flow. It is the difference in voltage that carries the current. The great the difference, the greater the current flow assuming the charger can generate the current. However, if you say put 25VDC to a 12VDC battery, if there is enough current capable of being generated by the charger, you will cook the battery. To tell if the alternator is functioning at all, just check battery voltage with car running. If it is not greater than say 13.5 volts, the alternator is dead. You could measure 13.5 at the battery with the car running and still have a bad alternator as the alternator may not be able to generate any current, but if the voltage does not EXCEED the voltage rating of the battery, the alternator is dead no matter how much current it is possible to generate. Same goes for your cell phone battery or a rechargeable flashlight battery. The charging device must produce more voltage than the device it is charging or you can fogeddabowdit!
Remember too that it took very little pressure for you to strip those last few threads on the WP and it will take just that much pressure to move the threads back into Place! Each time you try to start the nut crooked though, you make the threads worse. Get the fan blade straight to the WP, push it straight back with say a hammer handle while turning the nut counter clockwise and there is a good chance it will start. If you are careful you can hold the blade dead straight and rap lightly with a hammer as though you are trying to hammer the hut straight on and sometimes the nut will "jump" that first bad thread and go to the next thread and be fine from there. You can also take a bastard file and just bevel the end of the threaded part and it will render the first couple threads useless and not impede the fan from threading back on.
 
#106 · (Edited)
Get the fan blade straight to the WP
I was wondering where you were in my time of need! :)

Finally, I resigned myself to reversing half of what I just finished putting on and then removing the fan shroud (which I was avoiding all this time because basically that means replace the cooling system but I don't have the parts even ordered yet.

Worse yet, following the Beisan instructions, I did OK on the fan shroud except I broke the nipple off the drivers side of the upper hose and lost the rivets on that same side; but at least I now can ACCESS the water pump threads!

The first thing I did was MEASURE the size ( probably M24x1.50 ):
Measuring with an SAE micrometer, the water pump threads are 0.939 inches in diameter (23.85 mm) with a pitch of 1.50. So, I'd think I need a 24 mm die with a pitch of 1.50 (I don't know if you measure threads from the tip of the thread or from the valley; I measured from the outside tip. 24mm would be 0.945" though, so it's not an exact science.) However, in the specific thread on those threads, it is explained I fixed the problem by removing the fan shroud and then having TONS of room (comparatively) to fix up the threads ... which I've done.

The good news is I now have a complete writeup for the shroud removal (complete with photos of representative mistakes! :) ... ) that I will post later for all to benefit from.

UPDATE: This thread implies it's an M25, not an M24???

 

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#107 · (Edited)
Instructions for removal of fan shroud in a 2002 BMW 525i

Lest I forget, here are hastily written instructions for removal of the fan shroud in the 2002 BMW 525i.

I tried to follow the Beisan DIY as much as possible; but I think I snapped MUCH better pictures of some of the steps (e.g., proper removal of the rivets and locations of hoses, etc.) than they did; but you should be able to follow their procedures as well as mine.

Pictures to follow later (I'll append to this post).

REMOVE SHROUD: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/e39_fan_procedure.htm
- Raise the E39 with a jack and put on jack stands (or ramps)
- Remove the under-engine shroud pan (nine #2 Phillips one-twist bolts)
- Draw the hose sequence or snap photos of the underside shroud hose routing.
- Protect your eyes from falling dust with goggles (I didn't and wished I did).
- Locate the auxiliary pump at the bottom driver-side corner of the shroud.
- Disconnect the press-pull auxiliary coolant pump electrical connector
- Slide the auxiliary pump toward the center of the radiator out of the
fan shroud sleeve by lining up the hose in the clamp and tugging gently
- Disconnect both coolant hoses from the fan shroud bottom
- They are held on with two dual-hose clips five single-hose clips, four
of which are on the bottom of the radiator, and one is on the driver's
side about half way up the shroud on the engine side.
- From above, follow the wire out of the auxiliary water pump to the
AUC (stink) sensor on the driver's side in front of the alternator
just under the upper radiator hose elbow.
- Press the plastic clip on the stink sensor connector and pull up to
remove the AUC sensor from the fan shroud.
- Remove the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch AUC sensor housing
by wiggling and coercing it, mostly pushing up from the bottom of
the AUC sensor housing and pulling the top of the AUC sensor housing
away from the shroud. Then, once it's a bit loose, switch directions
of force by pushing down on the AUC sensor housing, pulling the bottom
of the AUC sensor housing away from the shroud. You have to just do it.
- With a 3/16th flathead screwdriver pry out (only) the (center)
plastic rivet pin on the driver's side of the shroud near the upper
hose until you can get needle nose pliers on it to pull that center
pin out. Then pry out the base surrounding the center pin.
- Likewise, remove the rivet to the side of the expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- With two screwdrivers, pry up the escutcheon around the bleeder screw
next to the expansion tank filler cap and remove the escutcheon.
- Replace the expansion tank filler cap.
- Study how the M-shaped rubber seal at the top of the fan shroud sits.
- Pull up on the two-foot long M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud.
- Lift the fan shroud up and to the rear of the car; you'll get about 4
inches of room to see the small hose that goes across from the expansion
tank to a nipple on the drivers side.
- BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE NEXT STEP (I broke the nipple right off!)
- Next to the nipple on the driver's side, pry open the original clamp
so that you can remove the hose (I think it's better to dremel it off
because I busted it with very little pressure exerted).
- Remove the fan clutch nut (see separate instructions) with 32mm fan
clutch nut wrench and 48-mm hole spacing fan hub bolt counterhold tool.
- Lift fan shroud and pull fan out toward driver tilting and wiggling
as necessary to get the fan out of the shroud; it will come out aiming
at the driver's steering wheel.
- Beisan says to remove the fan shroud from the engine bay at this point
but I don't see how you can with the expansion tank, it's three hoses,
and the electrical connector on the bottom still connected to the
expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove expansion tank bleed screw with a P3 Phillips
screwdriver.
- Dislodge the expansion tank from the fan shroud by pulling up and
toward the windshield to dislodge the two hoses at the bottom from
the fan shroud.
- Replace the bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Pull the drivers side of the fan shroud up and at the same time pull
the bottom hoses of the expansion tank away from the fan shroud.
- Pull the upper expansion tank house through the tunnel in the
fan so that it is not impeding removal of the fan shroud
- Finally, remove the shroud from the engine bay, leaving the expansion
tank still connected to the car.
- Disconnect the frail-looking electrical connector from the bottom of
the expansion tank.
- The Beisans say to place the expansion tank at a high location in the
engine bay but that only made my broken nipple leak more so I put it
at about the same level it was prior.
- As per the Beisans, I tried to keep the expansion tank overflow hose
high to keep coolant from draining out but whenever I raised the expansion
tank, coolant drained out of the broken nipple on the radiator anyway.
Eventually, while I was working on putting the fan on the water
pump, the expansion tank fell to the floor with a full thud, and
I had to jam a branch of wood from my plants into the broken nipple
end on the end of the hose to stave the bleeding mess.
- At this point, the fan is off, the shroud is off, and the expansion
tank is connected but lying on the ground.
- I have access now to the water pump bolt!

 

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#190 ·
here are hastily written instructions for removal of the fan shroud in the 2002 BMW 525i
For the cross-linked record, this related thread was posted today (which contains useful pictures & advice):
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Radiator Install Advice

I will be attempting to install a new radiator relatively soon in my vehicle, and i have been reading and looking at a lot of the diy links. So i know this will sound stupid but in order to slide out the radiator, the fan clutch with fan and cowl must be removed correct? Also since its an auto the transmission hoses must be detached as well?
 
#108 ·
Reading this thread has been a very confusing experience. Changing an alt and diagnosing your original problem shouldn't be this complicated. Simple problem with a simple swap. We got talk about fan clutch removal and what clamps to use. Things get so much clearer and easier when BOTH hands are on the job and not one holding an SLR. Just saying.

There are several threads on multiple forums to diagnose the alt issue. I personally have one where I went through this WHILE the car was being driven. Symptoms showed up about an hour prior to break down.


This job is Not for someone who can buy some tools. This has been proven in this thread. WE have changed these ALt's out in about an hour and change. There are no amount of pics one can take to show someone this is easy.Do not create false hope.
 
#110 · (Edited)
Things get so much clearer and easier when BOTH hands are on the job and not one holding an SLR. Just saying.
I don't disagree with you ...

First off, I start clueless (so maybe it takes me ten times longer); and, as anyone who has documented a fix knows, it takes much longer to document the steps than to just do them (so that makes it fifteen times longer); plus, I take pretty good pics ... so maybe it's twenty times longer (what with all the angles, lighting changes, selection, cropping, annotation, posting, etc.). And I certainly try to respond, in detail, with pictures, to every single relevant query (so maybe it's twenty five times longer). ... plus I freeze like a deer in the headlights when I have to make a decision without data ... (that's where you guys get me over the hurdles!).

But, keep in mind, not only am I helping myself by asking these questions, I'm also trying to help the clueless (of which I always start out as one).

When the clueless read the final DIY (which always seems to take ANOTHER ten times longer) ... THEY can follow in just a couple of hours. That's progress!

In fact, at this point, with just my "text" directions (I haven't posted the pictures yet), I "probably" could do an entire belt-drive system swap in just a few hours (assuming fewer mishaps because of the knowledge of the cn90 thread-nut trick, for example).

Of course, my "I'm being towed in 30 minutes" original post "grew" from a charging system question --> to an alternator R&R --> to a belt-drive system overhaul --> to a PSP leak fix --> to a stripped water pump shaft --> to a fan shroud removal --> to a broken nipple --> to an aneurysm in the lower radiator hose --> to a cooling system overhaul parts research (and some say, due to the gunk on the as-yet-unnamed part shown below) --> to a valve cover gasket replacement --> and from there to a VANOS seals (thank God I dodged the bullet on the ICV and CCV and OFH repairs).

At this point, my biggest problem is selecting the parts and suppliers at a good price for the cooling system overhaul (doing all the research necessary and posting results into this thread for myself & others).

It seems the most highly recommended suppliers (overall) are:
- eactuning, oembimmerparts, bmaparts, bavauto, autohauzaz, bmw-parts-direct, eeuroparts, bimmerspecialist, and trademotion ...

So, I'm in the cooling-system overhaul parts-research stage at the moment.

 

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#112 · (Edited)
bluebee a couple posts up, you have a pic of the Vanos unit and an encircled part you're curious about... That's the Vanos exhaust solenoid, covered in oil/grime from ????

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DM53&mospid=47585&btnr=11_2170&hg=11&fg=15

The link refers to parts for my car, but the intake solenoid bits (parts 2, 3, 4 etc.) are probably identical to those for the exhaust solenoid...... though I'm not certain. No need to be replacing any of this stuff if it works, but the grime cake on yours suggests maybe you have a leaky valve cover gasket....
 
#113 ·
you have a pic of the Vanos unit and ...That's the Vanos exhaust solenoid, covered in oil/grime ... the grime cake on yours suggests maybe you have a leaky valve cover gasket....
Thanks for the answer. I've "heard" the dreaded word "VANOS" time and time and time again here ... but never knew WHERE it was.

I guess I'll tackle the leaking valve cover gasket LATER (after I get the E39 back running) as I've been w/o a car for days now and I think I'll just wrap it up with a nipple and hose temporarily while I complete the research on the cooling system overhaul (and wait for the parts to arrive). Then, after the cooling syste, I'll need to research how to debug a leaky valve cover gasket; and then how to replace the vanos seals. (Soooo much to learn.)

But, it's good to FINALLY see where the VANOS lies!

While I'm pondering, I wonder ... where in this picture below are those dreaded vanos seals?

 

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#116 · (Edited)
I will thoroughly check out all the VANOS pics as I think that's two jobs down the road:
1. Finish the drive belt system overhaul first
2. Then buy the parts and do a cooling system overhaul
3. Then, research and buy the parts and do a VANOS overhaul

Meanwhile, I did more research to improve the parts list that we should keep EXTRA of for any job that involves the fan shroud removal:
- Extra radiator nipples (BMW PN 17.11.0.419.132)
- Extra green coolant temperature sensor O-Rings M8x3 (BMW PN 13.62.1.743.299)
- Extra fan shroud rivets for 8mm holes (BMW PN 17.11.1.712.963)
Note: RealOEM doesn't list either of the first two parts where you'd expect them so most people don't know about them; but research reveals them to us all.

At the same time, I researched and finally found the trick outside the E39 forums for obtaining the correct M8x3 o-rings for the lower radiator hose coolant temperature sensor.

Concurrently, I visited stores until I could find a complete thread-chaser file set which I used on the water pump bolt to clean the threads (as discussed in this specific-topic thread).

Lastly, I experimented with a safe way to remove the radiator nipple intact (so as to improve the fan shroud removal procedure). I failed, but, I opened a separate thread asking the more inventive of us to see if we can devise a non-destructive method of intact radiator nipple removal.



 
#117 · (Edited)
I finished the job and drove the car today for a test drive and it drove well (even cured itself of the loud noise upon startup).

Only one step left and that's to bleed it.

Disaster struck (again)! :(

As the final final step, I tried to follow the cn90 bleed method and then the conflicting NNY528I bleed method, and, well, I guess I tweaked the thermostat hose bleed screw one to many times!

Half is stuck in the hose and I now own my very own ethylene glycol fountain!

Using a screw extractor set (bought when I learned how NOT to change oil), I then cracked the plastic in the upper radiator hose. So a new hose is required before the car will move again.

No big deal ... but, I don't want to break the radiator while I'm removing the hose so I need to be gentle.

I pulled one u-shaped pin right off; and the other one is sticking out. What's next for removing the hose w/o breaking the thermostat on one end and the radiator on the other end?

 

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#118 ·
Ouch... hey I've done things like this, too.

To remove the hose from the tstat housing, you'll want to use one hand to hold the housing end steady (to ensure it isn't subject to any sideways flex) as you use your other hand to slowly and steadily wiggle (rotational movement) the hose end off. If you pull too hard, rubber hose can tear and the plastic fitting can crack. Take your time, this can be a test of stamina especially if the O-ring in the hose-end fitting has had time to dry out. You might need to water a few plants along the way....

I bled my 528i the same way poolman does. I think that's the method described in the Bentley.
 
#119 ·
use one hand to hold the housing end steady (to ensure it isn't subject to any sideways flex) as you use your other hand to slowly and steadily wiggle (rotational movement) the hose end off
It doesn't wanna go. I can apply MORE force ... but that's what has been getting me in trouble all along. So I need to go slowly.

Can you CONFIRM that once I pull the pin, there's nothing else to press? (Sometimes these German connectors are diabolical.)

 

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#120 ·
The wire pin really just locks the hose in place, I guess so pressure can't blow it off; the seal is a thick O-ring in the plastic hose fitting that slips over the end of the t-stat plastic tubing, and it can be tough to release (tight rubber gripping plastic). When these hoses are new and you are snapping the fittings together wet with a little coolant as lubricant, they slip on easily enough the first time. Getting them apart is another story.
 
#124 · (Edited)
Getting them apart is another story.
Hi Pleiades (the 7 sisters),

Your information helped a lot to give me the confidence to devise a method that applies (I think) absolutely ZERO force up or down or to the side. All the force is axial only! :)

I wrote a pictorial DIY to show others how I accomplished that!

BTW,
the pictorial DIY for reattaching the fan nut is here (thanks to cn90).

Thanks!


PS: I still don't know if it's "normal" to have an SES light after replacing the alternator. I can't borrow the code reader right now due to my friend being out on vacation.

 
#122 ·
Blue, the best way is to bleed the way you attempted. HOWEVER, I have found that if you get the front of the car at least 6" above the back end it s easily done with only the bleeder screw by the reservoir. Too late now, but if you can park on a really steep incline or jack front of car up you can get an effective bleed just using bleed screw at reservoir. If temps look ok, drive it to work and back and then check level again. You may gain just a little if you raised front end.
 
#123 ·
jack front of car up you can get an effective bleed just using bleed screw at reservoir.
Thanks Bill. That now makes THREE bleed procedures to choose from! :)

I'll try to remove the hose today from home, before heading out to BMW Mountainview with a friend to get the hose. I'm surprised it just wiggles off because it doesn't want to (hopefully I won't break the thermostat housing and radiator neck as the cooling system overhaul is for a later date).

At least the alternator works and replacing all the belt-drive system components fixed the screeches I used to hear for the first five minutes after cold startup.

I did have difficulty putting the engine air filter housing back together; I wonder if it's why I have the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light.

Is it normal to have an SES light after replacing alternator and belt-drive components? (I have to borrow a code reader to see the codes.)

 

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#125 ·
I read your DIY and will try that wedgie approach next time I have to remove a hose.

Side note: Pleiades is "Subaru" in Japanese and is the constellation on the emblem you see on that brand.... I use the same name on several Subaru forums.... Easier to have to remember just one (and easier yet on a non-Subie board...).
 
#126 ·
So, how did you repair the water pump thread? I see in one picture a tap and die kit. Did you find the correct die? BTW, a tap is for making threads on the inside like fixing a stripped NUT. I die fixes outer threads such as the water pump threaded shaft. :thumbup:
 
#128 · (Edited)
So, how did you repair the water pump thread?
To rectify the stripped threads took three actions:
1. I reluctantly removed the fan shroud (complete text DIY here);
2. With better access, I easily cleaned up the threads (using a combination of the old nut and a 1.50 pitch thread chaser);
3. After replacing the shroud again restricted access, I used the cn90 rawhide wrap trick

This second time, the nut spun on within 30 seconds (on the second or third spin). In fact, by the time I finished the length of rawhide, the whole nut bottomed against the waterpump. The 32mm wrench and counterhold tool only needed to turn it less than a single turn until I couldn't move it anymore.

BTW, this was the biggest auto repair job in my life! I learned a lot. And, I realized every single DIY skipped (a lot) of steps, even the best DIYs. So, I took pictures and documented every step. I hope I have time to create the comprehensive DIY!

 
#127 ·
It's not normal after a repair such as what you did, but are you positive it did not set at the last moment before you shut the car off to be towed. If so, it will possibly clear on its own after a few startcycles. I would not worry about it now. Raising the front of the car will make any bleeding procedure you attempt more effective. In my case, that was the only bleed screw I had to open..the one at the top by the radiator cap.
 
#130 ·
are you positive it did not set at the last moment before you shut the car off to be towed
Hi Bill,

Thanks for answering that unanswered question that it's not normal.

The SES, TRANS FAILSAFE PGM, the red battery light, the radio cut out like a cell phone, etc., all happened just before the E39 conked out on me in the middle of the road.

In addition, I had a devil of a time getting the engine air cleaner hoses all back together; I wouldn't be surprised if I didn't have an air leak there.

Overall, I learned a lot on this, my biggest auto repair in my life:
- I learned how to remove and replace the alternator
- I learned how to remove and replace the entire belt drive system
- I learned how to remove and replace the E39 fan shroud
- I learned how to remove and replace the fan clutch (multiple times)
- I learned how to fix the power steering reservoir leak
- I learned (almost) all the parts of the cooling system firsthand
- I published (the dimensions) of how to build your own V8 counterhold tool
- I learned how to unlock the instrument cluster for battery charge information
etc.

Overall, I managed to solve these problems:
- The charging system (which catastrophically failed)
- A persistent early morning cold start squeal (video here)
- The leaking power steering fluid reservoir
- Portions of the cooling system (more to come)
etc.

And, I unfortunately uncovered a few more things to do:
- Oil is leaking out of the valve cover gasket by the vanos
- The lower radiator hose had a weak spot where oil leaked
etc.

And to give back to the team to help others, I wrote up:
- The complete recommended parts list for a belt-drive system overhaul
- The complete recommended parts list for a cooling system overhaul
- The complete recommended parts list for a VANOS system overhaul
- How to remove and replace the E39 fan shroud (every single step & tool)
- How to fix a broken radiator nipple w/o replacing the radiator
- How to find a just-as-good replacement for the cooling sensor o-ring
- How to replace a viscous fan nut in less than 30 seconds
- How to remove the radiator hoses eliminating twisting motions
- How to remove the BMW factory clamp without stressing the nipple
etc.

So, while this thread is long, and the offshoots are varied, I think we accomplished a lot ... and to all of you, I thank you for your help and patience!

Maybe, since I'm now unemployed, and I love to snap photos, maybe I should think of writing pictorial how to books for dummies! :)

 

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#131 ·
Way cool. You can help me next time as I haven't done some of what you had to do. I hate to say it, but I think you kinda proved Ken wrong on this one. Sure, it took you a week or maybe two whereas a mechanic would do in a couple hours, but you could do it a second time in probably 4 or 5 hours and you learned to not be afraid of anything someone else could put together. That confidence will stay with you forever :thumbup:
 
#132 ·
Applauds.

Your write-ups/posts had attracted other to share their experience and great tips that will benefit many others ... wait ... is this the thing for the coordinators to say?

For the red power steering fluid, auto trans fluid, brake fluid, or any other automotive non-gas fluid, google "Your-city/county recycler" and you will likely find the right place for home/auto hazardous waste collectors (for county, you already paid for them with tax $). Here's one you can use:

http://www.recyclestuff.org/

Enter a search phrase and click search in the above site and you get this: http://www.recyclestuff.org/search_mat.php?searchItem=power%20steering%20fluid#searchstart , see the non-original image attached.
 

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#133 ·
Enter a search phrase and click search in the above site and you get this: http://www.recyclestuff.org
Thanks for the hint on the recycling.

The dynamic test suggested by QSilver of the replaced alternator varied between 13.4 to 13.8 volts and the dynamic test of the cooling system showed around 89° to about 94° for about 40 miles of testing.

 

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#140 ·
Had the exact same situation, 80 mph on a freeway Boom!!! car died completely, was lucky enough it was only 7 miles away from home, so i took my alternator to autozone charged it and then drove my "electric car " home. but instead of changing the alternator I decided to change only voltage regulator(the brushes were pretty worn) it worked well, and luckily i didn't have to mess with the accessory belt .
 
#143 ·
A reversal of polarity might cause the alternator to fail all the tests. Like what might occur during a jump start.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did have a few jump starts over time (lights left on, for example); and I certainly "rebooted" the E39 perhaps a hundred times (I finally gave up on the problematic DICE and don't use it anymore because of that).

Also, I've had a cold-start five-or-ten-minute squeal since March so it may have been the alternator all along (debugging sequence documented here).

The good news is that I learned a LOT. And, anyone who has not done the job who reads this thread, I hope, will not make the same MISTAKES I made (of which there were many).

One mistake, for example, was the bleed screw. Look at the picture below. Notice the bleed screw air channel is about a thread below the lip of the screw. That means it takes probably less than a single turn (a single turn at most) to bleed.

Yet I torqued that thing down as if I was plugging the leak in the dam across the Zuiderzee. :(

 

Attachments

#144 · (Edited)
Another thing I've learned in one of the spin off threads to this one (which was not in the E39 forums as far as I could figure out in searches) is the elusive part number for the coolant temperature sensor o-ring.

You can't get that o-ring directly (there is no part number; it comes with the temperature sensor); but what if you have a leak at that o-ring.

What you can do is replace the o-ring with the 'equivalent' BMW part.

I measured a new o-ring today (results here) and it matches in size.

Bearing in mind I'm measuring floppy rubber with ten thousands inch micrometers and calipers, it was indeed 8mm ID by 3mm thick which is the same size as the air temperature sensor in the intake manifold; the point is that air temperature sensor o-ring DOES have a part number (BMW PN 13621743299).

Yet another lesson learned (more to come).

 

Attachments

#145 · (Edited)
For anyone contemplating this repair themselves, I must draw attention to one thing you must do that cn90, aioros, and others also recommended ...

And that is to DRAW the belts while they are still on the car (and do so on a strong piece of paper or make a copy!). :)

I can't count the number of times I referred to that tattered coolant-soaked greasy crumpled piece of paper before it literally fell apart in my hands, in order to position the belts (which I had to do multiple times because of the cross threading and removal of the pins and breakage of parts). Luckily, by the time it fell apart and was useless, I had scribbled all over the related diagram in the Bentley (choosing one of many, which is why you have to write it down).

Here's a diagram, if it will help you, that is accurate for my particular 2002 I6 E39 with two mechanical tensioners.

Make sure you can locate the following 10 parts on the diagram (8 of which I'm replacing).

Clockwise, starting from crankshaft (large belt):
- Alt/PSP/CS/WP serpentine belt (inner)
- Crankshaft pulley (inner)
- Upper mechanical tensioner
- Water pump pulley
- Idler roller (sometimes called a pulley)
- Alternator pulley
- Power steering pump pulley

Clockwise, starting from crankshaft (smaller belt):
- Air conditioning compressor belt (outer)
- Crankshaft pulley (outer):
- Lower mechanical tensioner
- AC compressor pulley

 

Attachments

#146 · (Edited)
Lest I forget, here are the instructions I wrote (and constantly adjusted) for replacing the alternator and belt drive components:

TEXT DIY FOR ALTERNATOR, TENSIONERS, IDLER ROLLER, & BELTS: (July 2010)

Contributors (in order of appearance): bluebee, mmm635, pleiades, 540_M-Sport,
cn90, QSilver7, Fudman, doru, jarhed1964, supradupe, xraye39, DHoang,
five.two.five, Jason5driver, harris2p, 540iman, & MatWiz.

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION:
- BMW 2002 525i;M54 engine;A5S.325Z automatic transmission;
- Bosch 120amp air-cooled alternator with multi-function control
- INA mechanical belt tensioners for both belts
- belt-driven mechanical cooling fan with viscous clutch (controls fan speed)
- cooling cassette in front of the radiator (cools the ATF, PS, oil, & AC)
- electrically-heated thermostat
- auxiliary electric cooling fan
- auxiliary coolant pump from base of fan shroud on drivers side
- outside (shorter) belt turns the AC compressor
- inner (longer) belt turns alternator, water pump, & power steering pump

ORDER PARTS:
- R&R CS/AC drive belt
- R&R CS/WP/ALT/PS drive belt
- R&R alternator (OEM Bosch 120 amp, P/N AL0703X, 0 124 5 15 050)
- R&R idler pulley
- R&R lower belt tensioner (CS/AC belt)
- R&R upper belt tensioner (CS/WP/ALT/PS belt)

Note: It is highly recommended you order from OemBimmerParts, EACTuning, or other fest supporters!

SUMMARY DIY (thanks to the contributors listed above):
0. Most leave fan shroud & hoses in place & the fan loose inside the shroud
1. Disconnect battery positive terminal in the trunk with 10mm box wrench
2. Remove the mass-air filter housing (a few 6mm hose clamps & a 10mm bolt)
3. Undo fan clutch nut with 32-mm thin wrench & 45-mm spacing counterhold tool
4. Apply clockwise force (16mm) to each tensioner to remove both drive belts.
5. Disconnect power (13-mm) & rectangular connector in back of alternator
6. Unbolt the PS reservoir bracket (two 13-mm bolts) and set it aside.
7. Remove two alternator 16-mm bolts; the upper bolt also holds idler pulley
8. Remove upper mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring extended
9. Remove lower mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring compressed
...
10. Replace lower mechanical tensioner & then upper mechanical tensioner
11. Replace idler roller and alternator and alternator electrical connections
12. Replace the inner cs/wp/alt/ps belt first; then replace the outer cs/ac belt
13. Replace the viscous fan nut onto the water pump
14. Replace the power steering reservoir and the engine air cleaner housing
15. If removed, replace the radiator fan shroud & upper radiator hose
16. Bleed if necessary & test alternator output on the cluster (if equipped).
17. Consider CCV, ICV, OFH gasket, & PSP fluid reservoir leak fixes
Note: Debugging steps are not included in this Remove-and-Replace DIY (R&R).

Note: To replace alternator & drive belt components you do NOT have to remove
the fan or the fan shroud; removal of the fan is highly recommended; removal
of the fan shroud will certainly make access much easier; removal of the
upper radiator hose is trivial and will also aid in access (although hose
removal will entail an additional cooling system refill and bleed).

GATHER TOOLS:
- Cooling fan counterhold wrench BMW 11.5.030; aka pulley holding tool
- Thin 32 mm long box-crescent combination wrench
- OPTIONAL: Alternator pulley nut removal tool BMW 12.7.110 (only if needed)
- 4-to-6 amp 12V battery charger
- Socket wrenches (16mm, 13mm, 6mm) & extensions
- Box wrenches (17mm, 16mm, 10mm)
- Screwdrivers (#2 Philips, 3/16ths inch flathead)
- Spare 5mm or 11/64 allen wrenches or smaller (6mm or 3/16ths are too large)
- Optional: T50 Torx, L-shaped to fit in tight spaces (socket is too large)
- 1 can anti-sieze paste
- 1 can dielectric grease

0. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN SHROUD (OPTIONAL):
See also: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/e39_fan_procedure.htm
- Raise the E39 with a jack and put on jack stands (or ramps)
- Remove the under-engine shroud pan (nine #2 Phillips one-twist bolts)
- Draw the hose sequence or snap photos of the underside shroud hose routing.
- Protect your eyes from falling dust with goggles (I didn't and wished I did).
- Locate the auxiliary pump at the bottom driver-side corner of the shroud.
- Disconnect the press-pull auxiliary coolant pump electrical connector
- Slide the auxiliary pump toward the center of the radiator out of the
fan shroud sleeve by lining up the 0.540" OD hose in the clamp and tugging
gently
- From above, follow the smaller of the two power steering hoses down
until you reach a hose-to-hose clip shared with one of the radiator
hoses; disconnect the radiator hose side of this clip and make a note
of the location of the clip as it will move once you disconnect it.
- From below, for the upper of the two expansion tank hoses only,
working your way from the passengers side to the drivers side,
disconnect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud; then
disconnect the one clip at the back of the fan shroud facing the engine.
- From below, for the lower of the two expansion tank hoses, working
your way from the passenger side to the drivers side, disconnect
the three clips on the bottom of the fan shroud and then disconnect
the one clip on the side of the fan shroud.
- Mark with whiteout or nail polish or chalk where the clips line up
with the hoses once the hoses are out (you'll see the indentations).
Later you'll use these marks for reference or you'll transfer these
marks to the new hoses in the same position.
- From above, follow the wire out of the auxiliary water pump to the
AUC (stink) Automatic Air Recirculation sensor on the driver's side in
front of the alternator
just under the upper radiator hose elbow. Notice the orientation of
this AUC sensor (electrical connector up, embossed lettering outward).
You'll need that information for reassembly.
- Press the plastic clip on the stink sensor connector and pull up to
remove the AUC sensor from the fan shroud.
- Remove the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch AUC sensor housing
by wiggling and coercing it, mostly pushing up from the bottom of
the AUC sensor housing and pulling the top of the AUC sensor housing
away from the shroud. Then, once it's a bit loose, switch directions
of force by pushing down on the AUC sensor housing, pulling the bottom
of the AUC sensor housing away from the shroud. You have to just do it.
- Place the AUC sensor housing in your parts bin.
- With a 3/16th flathead screwdriver pry out (only) the (center)
plastic rivet pin on the driver's side of the shroud near the upper
hose until you can get needle nose pliers on it to pull that center
pin out. Then pry out the base surrounding the center pin.
- Likewise, remove the rivet to the side of the expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- With two screwdrivers, pry up the escutcheon around the bleeder screw
next to the expansion tank filler cap (that has the words ENTLUFTUNG
molded into the top) and remove the escutcheon.
- Replace the expansion tank filler cap.
- Study how the M-shaped rubber seal at the top of the fan shroud sits.
- Pull up on the two-foot long M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud.
- Lift the fan shroud up and to the rear of the car; you'll get about 4
inches of room to see the small hose that goes across from the expansion
tank to a nipple on the drivers side.
- BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE NEXT STEP (I broke the nipple right off!)
- The Beisan DIY tells you to pry open the original clamp next to the nipple
on the driver's side, so that you can remove the hose. I disagree. You do
not want to put ANY pressure on that brittle nipple. If you must remove
the factory clamp, dremel it off at the point ABOVE the hoses. Better
yet, leave the factory clamp on & remove the entire nipple (gently).
- The nipple often snaps in half right at the edge of the groove for
the o-ring. In addition the groove for the o-ring molded in has sharp
corners rather than a rounded groove, further weakening the part such that
it often snaps when working around it. Some report removing the old nipple
with a 10mm socket pushed into the upper radiator hose opening, and pushed
it on to the "clipped" end to push it closed enough so that it can be pried
out of the radiator (putting a string on the socket in case it fell into
the radiator).
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1943285&postcount=16
- If you haven't done so already, remove the fan clutch nut (see separate
instructions) with 32mm fan clutch nut wrench (1 1/4") and 48-mm hole
spacing fan hub bolt counterhold tool.
- Lift fan shroud and pull fan out toward driver tilting and wiggling
as necessary to get the fan out of the shroud; it will come out aiming
at the driver's steering wheel.
- Beisan says to remove the fan shroud from the engine bay at this point
but I don't see how you can with the expansion tank, it's three hoses,
and the electrical connector on the bottom still connected to the
expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove expansion tank bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Take a good long hard look at how the expansion tank hoses snap into
the shroud at the bottom of the expansion tank (you'll need that later
when you put them back).
- Dislodge the expansion tank from the fan shroud by pulling the top
toward the windshield about a half inch away from the top of the fan
shroud; dislodge the two hoses at the bottom from the fan shroud.
- Replace the bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Pull the drivers side of the fan shroud up and at the same time pull
the bottom hoses of the expansion tank away from the fan shroud.
- Pull the upper expansion tank house through the tunnel in the
fan so that it is not impeding removal of the fan shroud
- Finally, remove the shroud from the engine bay, leaving the expansion
tank still connected to the car.
- Disconnect the frail-looking electrical connector from the bottom of
the expansion tank.
- The Beisans say to place the expansion tank at a high location in the
engine bay but that only made my broken nipple leak more so I put it
at about the same level it was prior.
- As per the Beisans, I tried to keep the expansion tank overflow hose
high to keep coolant from draining out but whenever I raised the expansion
tank, coolant drained out of the broken nipple on the radiator anyway.
Eventually, while I was working on putting the fan on the water
pump, the expansion tank fell to the floor with a full thud, and
I had to jam a branch of wood from my plants into the broken nipple
end on the end of the hose to stave the bleeding mess.
- At this point, the fan is off, the shroud is off, and the expansion
tank is connected but lying on the ground.
- I have access now to the water pump bolt!

0. REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE (OPTIONAL):
- Inspect entire length of hose for damage; if it exists, replace the hose.
- Place a catch pan under the radiator hose (or partially drain radiator).
- Never apply side-to-side or twisting or up-and-down motion to the radiator
hose with your hands; apply only axial force with a pry tool.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver under the center
of the u-shaped hose clamp at the radiator neck and leverage the u-shaped
clamp upward to release the lock on the radiator neck.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver into the junction
between the plastic radiator neck and the plastic upper radiator hose end
and twist until the hose is the width of the screwdriver blade outward.
- Once the width is as far as the twisting motion will allow, insert the next
larger size screwdriver into the space and twist again until the hose moves
outward by the width of the screwdriver blade.
- Repeat the twisting action with the next largest screwdriver until the
upper radiator hose simly falls off the radiator neck.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver under the center
of the u-shaped hose clamp at the thermostat housing pipe and leverage the
u-shaped clamp upward to release the lock on the thermostat housing.
- Insert the tip of a small 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver into the junction
between the plastic thermostat housing and the plastic upper radiator hose
end and twist until the hose is the width of the screwdriver blade outward.
- Once the width is as far as the twisting motion will allow, insert the next
larger size screwdriver into the space and twist again until the hose moves
outward by the width of the screwdriver blade.
- Repeat the twisting action with the next largest screwdriver until the
upper radiator hose simly falls off the thermostat housing.
- With wire cutters, cut the original black plastic wire tie holding a
wiring harness to the upper radiator hose near where the upper radiator hose
bleed screw is located.
- Remove the upper radiator hose from the vehicle.

1. DISCONNECT BATTERY POWER AND CHARGE BATTERY:
- Set up your computer in your work area with Internet access to Bimmerfest
- Grab a box of nitrile gloves and a solvent cleaner & roll of paper towels
- Disconnect both battery cables with a 10mm box wrench (to be safe)
- Optional: Charge battery with less than 16.5V, 6 amps capacity charger

2. REMOVE ENGINE AIR CLEANER HOUSING:
- To prevent breakage of fragile plastic parts (ask me how I know),
remove the driver's side outer headlight lamp and the angel eye lamp
and wrap in a clean cloth with rubber bands holding the protection on.
- So that the parts go back the same way they came out, scratch with an
awl or other sharp object a demarcation line where the large and small
air intake hoses emanating from the front drivers side fender mate with
the air intake housing ductwork, prior to disassembly.
- Make a note of the under-the-MAF-sensor-housing routing of the MAF sensor
harness connector so that you can route it properly when you reassemble.
- Make a note of the direction & orientation of the hose clamps as they
may fall off during the ensuing repair and you'll want to put them back
the same way they were prior.
- With a jar of whiteout, mark a line on each disassembled tube so that
when you reassemble, you won't make any mistakes of not putting them
in far enough (they're all black).
- Loosen intake duct hose clamp at throttle assembly with a 3/16th flathead
(or, better yet as I belatedly learned, with a 6mm socket on an extension)
- Spread plastic clip to remove remove 1/4" idle control hose from intake duct
- Spread open two metal clips holding mass air flow sensor
- I tried to disconnect idle speed control valve harness connector but
I just can't find it, not from the Bentley pictures, nor from looking
- Disconnect harness connector from mass air flow sensor (press & pull)
- Remove air filter housing mounting screw with a 10mm socket or box wrench
- Disconnect vent tube by pulling back on the soft rubber with your hands
- Loosen air intake duct clamp with a 3/16ths flathead screwdriver
- I had to remove the MAF sensor housing in order to gain room
- I had to remove the engine air filter in order to gain leverage
- I had to twist the hard plastic vent tube out of the way to gain room
- Nobody tells you there is an unclamped hose at the BOTTOM of the
engine side of the air intake hose just after the MAF that holds it all up!
- Since there was no clamp on that bottom hose, I was on my own
(no instructions in the Bentleys mentioned any of this!)
- I elected to remove the two hose clamps near the engine on the large
3-inch air intake hose with a 3/16ths flathead screwdriver (or better yet,
with a 6mm socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet driver handle)
- Only after loosening those additional two hose clamps was I able to lift
the engine air intake up and back over the engine.
- This engine air intake is still connected to the engine by a pair of
what looks like vacuum hoses which I couldn't get loose for fear of
breaking the plastic nipple, so I left it all connected draped over
the engine
- Optional: I dumped leaf remnants out of the air filter housing inlet
- Optional: I put the 10mm bolt back so as not to lose it
- Optional: I tightened the three hose clamps so as to not lose them
in the ensuing battle; it was then that I realized a 6mm
socket on a 1/4" socket handle would have been easier than
the screwdriver (and updated the appropriate step above)
- Optional: While the MAF was removed, I hit it with a dozen pulses of
special MAF cleaner (aka xylene) and let air dry
- For the first time, I was able to feel the alternator belt tension,
which felt solid

Note: I still don't know if I was supposed to disconnect those two small
hoses still connected, or if I was supposed to pull on the one-inch
wide hose w/o a clamp that is still connected under the MAF closer
to the engine. But the air cleaner is off and to the side for now.

3. REMOVE VISCOUS FAN CLUTCH NUT (OPTIONAL BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED):
- Lift car with jack under the engine pad & place jack stands on jack pads
- Set parking brake and chock both rear wheels
- Twirl fan blade; check that fan clutch spins it twice after you let it go
- Mine spun about a quarter of a turn after I let it go (both directions)
- Let the engine cool down if it was used recently.
- Apply WD40 to fan clutch nut
- From below, remove under-engine plastic shroud (9 P2 Phillips head screws)
- Each Phillips head screw twists out in a single turn & stays with the shroud
- First place the fan counterhold tool (45 mm hole spacing) on the viscous
fan pulley nuts so that you can hold the pulley from turning
- Then place the 32mm (1 1/4") thin long open-end wrench on the viscous
fan nut.
- Scissor the two 16-inch long tools, twisting the left-hand threaded
viscous fan nut clockwise to remove (holding back with the counterhold tool)
- Once you crack the nut loose, spin it off by hand and place the fan
tucked out of the way in the well of the radiator shroud
- Removing the viscous fan gives you a lot more room to maneuver
Note: Some say to keep the fan clutch vertical so fluid doesn't leak out!
Note: Fan nut is either M23x1.50 or M24x1.50.

4. REMOVE BOTH DRIVE BELTS:
- Draw a diagram of the belt pathways.
- The outside (shorter) belt turns the AC compressor
- The inner (longer) belt turns alternator, water pump, & power steering pump
- The AC belt is thinner than its grooves so make special note before removal.
- My larger belt went from the top of the alternator -> to the outside of the
power steering pump --> to the engine-side groove of the crankshaft
pulley --> around the pulley almost 360 degrees to the idler roller
upside down curling around the idler roller from the bottom --> then to
the bottom of the water pump pulley and around the water pump --> then
again upside down to the very bottom 15 degrees of the upper mechanical
tensioner --> over to the top of the alternator pulley.
- My smaller belt went from the top of the compressor --> over to the top
of the crankshaft pulley around the bottom of the crankshaft pulley -->
over to the top 15 degrees of the lower mechanical tensioner --> back
over to the bottom of the AC compressor pulley.
- Find two small allen wrenches that you should insert into the tabs in
the two mechanical tensioners to keep the tension off until you're ready
to replace the belts (and to free up access to the 13mm mounting bolts)
- To remove alternator belt (it has to come off first), place a 16mm
box wrench on the lower mechanical tensioner and turn the box wrench
clockwise; this will loosen tension so you can slip the allen wrench
into the holes when the moving hole lines up with the stationary hole
- Once the lower mechanical tensioner is locked in the open position,
slip the alternator belt off the pulleys.
- Optional: Spin the pulley of the lower mechanical tensioner with the
belt removed; if you hear a "dry sound", it needs to be replaced.

- Note: If you wish to remove the pulley on the mechanical tensioner,
you will need an L-shaped T50 Torx wrench or you will need to remove
the fan shroud as there is not enough room for a socket or screwdriver
T50 Torx wrench between the mechanical tensioner pulley and the lower
lip of the fan shroud. However some say the they don't sell the pulley
separately so you need to remove both 13mm bolts holding the mechanical
tensioner in place, one of which will be a bear to access.
- The upper mechanical tensioner will be harder to access the 16mm leverage
nut. It can be accessed from the top with a 16mm socket wrench or even
easier from the bottom. Turn the wrench clockwise and this will lesson
the tension on the belt so that you can slip the belt off after inserting
your second spare allen wrench into the holes as they align with your
tension.
- With both belts off, spin the pulleys by hand. Here is what I found:
- waterpump pulley ==> spins 3 to 5 times quietly when spun (probably OK)
- crankshaft pulley ==> does not rotate by hand (I'm sure that's OK)
- power steering pulley ==> goes about 1/4 rotation when spun (probably OK)
- AC compressor pulley ==> spins about 3 or 4 turns silently (probably OK)
- alternator pulley ==> spins about 1 or 2 turns silently (probably OK)
- upper tensioner pulley ==> spins 10 or so turns noisily (probably BAD)
- lower tensioner pulley ==> spins about 15 turns barely audible (probably bad)
- idler roller ==> won't spin at all; very hard to spin; (probably bad)

5. REMOVE ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS:
- Remove the 17mm plastic-tipped nut for the red power cord from the back
of the alternator using a 17mm box wrench
- Press the pin and remove the top harness connector from the back of the
alternator

6. REMOVE POWER STEERING FLUID RESERVOIR BRACKET:
- Before removing the power steering reservoir bracket, make a note of
where the 1/4" corrugated plastic wiring goes between the power steering
reservoir and the oil filter housing (for later proper reassembly).
- With a 13mm socket and a six-inch extension bar to clear the power steering
fluid reservoir, first remove the rear bolt and then the front bolt
holding the power steering reservoir bracket and position power steering
reservoir safely
Note: Once the alternator is removed, loosely put the power steering pump
back on its brackets to prevent leakage and hose stress.
- Notice the bottom hose may be leaking; see cn0 fix for that.
- Leave the power steering hoses (for now); this just gives you access to
the two 16mm holding bolts for the alternator bracket.

FIX POWER STEERING RESERVOIR LEAKY HOSE (OPTIONAL):
- Leaky hose = 0.745"OD (other hose is 0.915" OD) (Doru says 20.9 - 24.1 mm)
- Drain hose from 22mm bolt facing the rear on the power steering pump
- or use baster (or pour)
- Third end is on the power steering pump itself
- Don't buy OEM Oetker clamp
- Flush it backward if you remove it
- The return hose from cooling coils to the reservor leaks.
- Start engine - turn steering wheel from side to side a few times,
- Check fluid level and add as necessary, repeat if necessary...
- Hose clamp to psp is realoem D=20,9-24,1 (for 530)
- Hose clamp to radiator is realoem D=16,6-20MM (for 530)
- Sears Craftsman 6" wire cutters (9 45075) grab between the outer lip and
one of the three locking nubs
- Closest clamp (far off) is #12 which is 9/16 to 1 1/4 (Tridon brand)
- Found a #8 which was a closer fit
- Use 8mm 1/4 socket on the flatheat bolts for secure twisting
- Used a costco 1kg smokehouse almonds container with a wide top for your fist
- Inspect color of fluid in the daylight (red --> grey)

REFERENCES:
- http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245304
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327581
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61089

7. REMOVE ALTERNATOR HOLDING BOLTS:
- The upper 16mm alternator holding bolt is the bolt holding on the idler
pulley; while the lower 16mm bolt is on the alternator bracket alone.
- It's easier to get to both the 16mm holding bolts from below than from
above.
- The upper holding bolt is removed with a 16mm socket and the lower one
requires a short two-inch extension and socket.
- Wiggle the unclamped plastic air duct off the bottom back of the alternator
- Now just wiggle the alternator out; it came out easily for me.
- You'll also have the idler pulley in your hands at this time.

8. REMOVE UPPER MECHANICAL TENSIONER:
- Tools: 13mm & 16mm socket, 3-inch socket extension
- Unlike the lower tensioner, you need to REMOVE the hold-fast pin
- Turn clockwise on the 16mm molding to release tension on the hold-fast pin
- Remove your 5mm or 11/64 allen wrench hold-fast pin placed during the
belt-removal process
- With a 13mm box wrench, remove the lower & upper 13mm tensioner bolts
- Remove the upper mechanical air conditioning tensioner from the engine
- Mark the tensioner as the alt/ps/wp tensioner (they are slightly different)

9. REMOVE LOWER MECHANICAL TENSIONER:
- Tools: 13mm and 16mm socket, 3-inch socket extension
- Spare allen wrench of just under about 5mm diameter (mine was unmarked)
- From underneath, turn the 16mm molded nut clockwise till the tabs line up
- Slip the spare 5mm allen wrench into the two tabs to lock them in place
- With a 13mm box wrench on a 3-inch extension, remove both bolts
- Remove lower mechanical air conditioning tensioner
- Leave the spare allen wrench in place (how do you safely remove it?)
- Mark the tensioner as the AC tensioner (they are slightly different)
Note: AC mechanical tensioners were redesigned in 8/2002 so compare with new
Note: How do we safely remove the spare allen wrench in the old tensioner?

Summary:
- Both belts are off the M54 engine
- The alternator and idler pulley are off the car
- Both mechanical tensioners are off the car
- The engine air cleaner and MAF housing are off (tucked on top of engine)
- The mechanical viscous fan clutch is off (tucked next to radiator)
- The power steering reservoir is off (hoses still attached)
- The fan shroud, radiator, and all radiator hoses are intact

Note: Lightly coat the water pump pulley flange with anti-seize where it
contacts the pulley. Avoid getting anti-seize in the bolt holes.
The anti-seize helps prevent the pulley from fusing to the flange.
Also coat the viscous fan nut with the anti-sieze paste.

Note: You should replace a bad idler pulley, but you can repack as per cn90:
- Use a hook and gently pry the rubber seal.
- Soak the bearing in a small container with gasoline to wash out old grease.
- Then repack with new grease.
- Gently re-apply the seal, taking care not to damage it.

Inspect oil filter housing gasket for leaks; repair if necessary.
Inspect power steering pump hoses for leaks; repair if necessary.
Inspect valve cover gasket for leaks; repair if necessary.
Inspect CCV and ICV; clean and/or replace if necessary.
Inspect cooling system components; replace if necessary.

10. REPLACE MECHANICAL TENSIONERS:
- Replace lower mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring compressed
Put the upper bolt in first as it's harder than the lower bolt.
I used a 13mm socket on a 3-inch exenstion and hand twirled the bolt
Torque as per Bentley page 121-16 & 020-19 is 16 ft lbs for the M54 engine.
- Replace upper mechanical tensioner (two 13mm bolts) with spring extended
Thinly coat the bolts with anti-seize paste.
Put the upper bolt in first as it's harder than the lower bolt.
I used a 13mm socket on a 3-inch exenstion and hand twirled the bolt
Torque as per Bentley page 121-16 & 020-19 is 16 ft lbs for the M54 engine.
But there really isn't much room for my long click-type torque wrench.
- THIS IS A STEP I MISSED AND IT COST ME DEARLY!
I should have used the 16mm wrench to place the ~5mm allen wrench
holding tension on the upper tensioner! This cost me dearly as I tried
to do so AFTER putting in the entire alternator; and failed!

11. REPLACE IDLER ROLLER & ALTERNATOR & ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS:
- Replace two alternator 16-mm bolts; the upper bolt also holds idler pulley
Thinly coat the bolts with anti-seize paste.
I tried to torque as per Bentley but there is no mention of the torque.
So I looked here for torque figures from cn90 which showed on page 30 the
idler bolt is 90Nm, which from this chart is a whopping 97 foot pounds!
On page 57 of cn90's torque book the torque on the rear holder bolt is
shown as a measly 3.5 Nm, neither number do I believe.
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Conversion-English-Metric.html
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5070678&postcount=2
- Reconnect the B+ power cable by the 17mm nut at the back of the alternator.
Bentley page 121-17 says to use 10 foot pounds of torque.
- Reconnect the rectangular field connector by pushing it into the
back of alternator.

12. REPLACE BOTH DRIVE BELTS:
- Make sure your original belt diagram is handy (you'll refer to it a lot!).
- Make sure the pin is in both tensioners; if not, place a pin in each.
- Wind the CS/WP/ALT/PS inner belt back on, starting from the reverse twist
on the upper tensioner looping back over the water pump to the underside
of the idler roller, with the pin keeping tension off the belt while your
fingers are in there.
If there's any slack, you put it on wrong (ask me how I know).
- You still have to use your 16mm sockete wrench to turn clockwise to push
past where the pin is to get everything in their groove.
- When the inner belt is finally in place, turn the 16mm socket wrench
clockwise just a little bit more in order to remove the pin with your
hands and get the last inch of the inner belt on just right.
- Now wind the AC compressor outer belt on as per your diagram.
- Again, remove the pin when the belt is positioned correctly.

13. REPLACE VISCOUS FAN NUT ONTO WATERPUMP HUB:
- Place a dab of anti-seize on the fan hub bolt and then spin the
32mm fan clutch nut COUNTER-CLOCKWISE back on the fan hub bolt.
- Optionally, twist slightly clockwise to set the nut on the threads before
twisting counterclockwise to spin the fan on.
- Best is to use the cn90 string trick as described below:

a. Tape the end of a string of about 2 feet of rawhide onto the fan clutch nut.
b. Wrap that rawhide counterclockwise (from the front of the engine) for
about five or ten twists
c. With one hand holding the fan against gravity, and positioning the fan
nut on the water pump hub shaft, use your other hand to pull up on the
rawhide string so as to spin the fan clutch nut on counterclockwise
without gravity being a major problem.
d. When the nut is spun on most of the way, remove the string and tape.
e. Tighten the fan clutch nut as desired until the water pump begins moving.
f. Hold the water pump from moving with your 45mm spacing counterhold tool
and spin the fan clutch nut on the remaining few threads using your thin
long 32mm open-end wrench.

Note: Page 170-15 of the Bentleys lists the torque as 89 INCH pounds; but
there is really no need to torque on the fan nut as the engine will
tighten it as it rotates counterclockwise (facing the engine from front).

14. REPLACE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR BRACKET & REPLACE ENGINE AIR INTAKE:
- From above, with a six-inch socket bar extension to clear the reservoir,
replace the rear 13mm bolts first for the power steering reservoir
bracket (it's the harder one) and then the front 13mm bolt and tighten
both to specifications.
- Double check the hose clamps at the bottom of the power steering
reservoir, especially if you shortened or replaced the hoses due to
leakage.
- Angle the clamp so that it won't be blocked when you eventually put
the engine air filter housing back on (ask me how I know).
- Refill with Dexron III ATF (essentially Dexron VI since GM no longer
legally certifies Dexron III). My empty reservoir took 550 ml (or
about 18 fluid ounces) on the first fill before starting engine.

15.REPLACE FAN SHROUD (IF IT WAS REMOVED):
- Clean the expansion tank coolant temperature sensor electrical connector
with MAF sensor cleaner (xylene) and when dry, add a dab of dielectric grease.
- Reconnect the expansion tank coolant temperature sensor connector but don't
make the mistake I made which was to connect with the wires above the ac
hose; the wires must be below the ac hose.
- Rethread the expansion tank overflow hose through the top of the fan shroud
- Reconnect the nipple and pipe clamp. Don't make the mistake I did, thinking
I could leave this for later because as soon as I removed the bleed screw
in the expansion tank, fluid leaked out of the radiator hole due to the
expansion tank being above that hole. When you press the nipple down into
the radiator, make sure it goes all the way until the seam is small
(I used a soft rubber mallet).
- Make sure the hose-clamp bolt is at south position, closest to the
radiator and furthest from the fan shroud. I used a 7mm quarter-inch
socket for security when tightening.
- Place the shroud approximately in place with the drivers side up about
six inches higher and replace the expansion tank hoses (I struggled for
half an hour trying to get the two hoses in the bottom of the expansion
tank to snap back into place). Finally I re-removed the bleeder screw,
tilted the expansion tank about 1/2 inch at the top away from the
fan shroud, and snap, the bottom hoses snapped into place instantly.
Lesson learned.
- Replace the bleeder screw using a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Tape and wrap about 2 feet of rawhide on the fan nut.
- Place fan clutch assembly inside the fan shroud.
- Position fan shroud as close to perfect on the top and put on eye=
protection and then go down
underneath the car to move hoses about and position the fan shroud
back in the two (2) plastic clips at the bottom and one in each bottom
corner (2). There is a clip on the sides (2), about a third of the way
up, and a clip near the top on the sides (2) for a total of about
8 clips.
- Unfortunately for me, my careful taping of the fan clutch fell off when
I tried to keep the heavy fan out of my way by tying it to the car.
Lesson learned. Don't try that.
- Again taping the rawhide on from the driver's side (there is no access
on the passenger side of the fan shroud due to the fact the expansion
tank is now firmly in) and wrapping it around the fan clutch nut,
it was easy to spin the fan on straight; took less than a minute
to get the fan nut spun onto five or six threads until it almost
bottomed on the shoulder of the water pump shaft.
- When the string falls off, tighten the nut (counter clockwise) by
holding the fan with your left hand and turning the 32 mm wrench
counter clockwise (the water pump hub won't spin due to belt
tension). After about 10, fifteen degree twists of the 32mm wrench,
you'll feel the nut tighten and the water pump hub will finally
move.
- Bringing the 45-mm hole spacing counterhold tool from the driver's
side, UNDER the upper hose (it won't work any other way), twist the
fan hub with the 32mm wrench until the right set of holes seats in
the hole and slot of the counterhold tool. Tighten as desired.
(Personally, I couldn't get more than a couple of degrees of
movement.)
- Nudge the fan shroud into its final seating position, taking care to
inspect the two rivet holes at top (2), the clips on the bottom third
on the side (2), the clips at each bottom corner (2) and the two clips
on the bottom (2) for a total of 8 clips.
- The top should be aligned so that you can replace the two-foot long
rubber M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud. Press along the
entire length of both channels of the M-shaped seal to confirm proper
positioning.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- Align the two clips and the word ENTLUFTUNG for the escutcheon that
goes around the bleeder screw next to the expansion tank filler cap.
and snap into place by wiggling the expansion tank and fan shroud
as you press down on the escutcheon.
- Replace expansion tank filler cap.
- From above, replace the plastic rivets at each corner of the shroud.
- Pick up the AUC sensor housing out of your parts box and locate the
holes in the fan shroud just below the upper radiator hose elbow where
it snaps into place on the fan shroud.
- Orient the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch automatic air recirculation
AUC sensor housing
with the electrical connector facing upwards and the embossed letters
facing to the driver's side outside of the car. Notice the hooks at the
top of the housing face down and the hooks on the bottom face up, while
the flap at the very bottom opens horizontally. Place the two bottom
hooks in first, then lift up while pressing in so that you can place
the top hooks next. The bottom flap should land over the bottom shelf
of the fan shroud connection point. At this point, I noticed my bottom
shelf was broken, probably when I manhandled the AUC out the first
time.
- Place a dab of dielectric grease in the electrical connector for the
AUC and connect the AUC sensor wiring connector making sure to keep
the wires below the upper radiator hose elbow.
- From above, locate the electrical connector for the auxiliary pump
and place a dab of dielectric grease on the connector before feeding
it down dangling to where you can reach it below.
- From underneath, align the auxiliary pump with its holder on the fan
shroud and slide in from the center toward the drivers side until
the marks you made prior on the hose align with the clips on the
fan shroud.
- Press the electrical connector for the auxiliary fan onto the
auxiliary fan until you hear it click tight.
- From above, follow the smaller of the two lines emanating from the
bottom of the power steering reservoir to the hose-to-hose clip
for the lower expansion tank hose and connect the two hoses together
at the point noted before you originally removed this clip.
- From below, for the lower expansion tank hose only, working your way
from the drivers side to the passenger side, connect the clip on the
side of the fan shroud; and lastly connect the three clips at the
bottom of the fan shroud.
- From below, for the upper of the two expansion tank hoses only,
working your way from the drivers side to the passenger side,
connect the clip on the edge of the fan shroud facing the engine;
and then connect the three clips at the bottom of the fan shroud.
- Reattach the lower engine cover 9 P3 Phillips one-turn screws.
- Voila! You've reattached your fan shroud.

REPLACE LOWER ENGINE SHROUD
- Reattach the lower engine shroud using the nine P3 one-twist Phillips screws.

REFILL LOST COOLANT & BLEED:
- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449008
- http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1423821
- http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=225208

Note: The Bentleys don't provide torque values for the two 16mm long bolts
of the alternator bracket.

HINDSIGHT:
My alternator removal was not planned; it just gave out on me. Had I planned better, the items to always consider proactively on the I6 seem to be:
0. Alternator & drive belt system (tensioners, idler roller, belts)
1. Oil Filter Housing (OFH) and crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) and idle control valve gasket (ICV) & throttle body gasket:
2. Vanos, Valve Cover Gasket (VCG), & spark plugs
3. Cooling system overhaul (expansion tank, radiator, fan clutch, water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat & housing)

Oil Filter Housing leak (OFH) DIYs:
- ElwoodBlues Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY for a 2002 530i (OFH)
- CN90 Oil Filter Housing Gaskety DIY for a 1998 528i (OFH)
- BryanH Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY for a 1998 528i (OFH)

Crankcase Ventilation Valve DIYs (CCV PCV, throttle body gasket, & idle control valve (ICV) gasket):
- Fudman CCV M54 DIY for a 2002 530i
-
Gumbi4u CCV/PCV Changed out M54 530i
-throttle body gasket and idle control valve seal/gasket
 
#180 ·
For the cross-linked record, In addition to post #146 of this thread here is another text DIY, this one for a 2003 530i posted here today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 530i Alternator Replacement Help !

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect connector and positive battery terminal from alternator.

Move the air intake muffler / hot film mass meter unit:
Remove the bolt (10mm hex socket) holding the air intake muffler to the car body. Loosen 2 big clamps holding the hoses, one at the engine end (hot film mass meter) and one at the bumper end (air intake muffler).

Disconnect the electrical connector from the hot-film mass meter.

Difficult to remove the vacuum control hoses, best left alone.

Gently jiggle the rubber parts out of their positions.

Rotate the assembly on top of the engine.

Only the air intake muffler / hot film mass meter was moved out of the way to access the alternator.

It is best to remove the shroud and impeller to provide more room and prevent damage to the driver side headlight. Damage to the headlight is a high probability since the access is at this side.

Off load the belt from the alternator using a Torx T50 socket driver (Snap-On Tools #FTX50SE) and short ratcheting wrench turning clockwise (push down) on the tensioner pulley.

Remove alternator's top and bottom bolts using 16mm or 5/8" hex sockets.
Top bolt is 150mm (approximately 6") long (idler support). Part #071 199 046 77

Bottom bolt is 125mm (approximately 5") long (sliding bushing nut). Part #071 199 006 30
PD (Pitch Diameter) shank with captive washer.

Remove bottom bolt first using the long 16mm socket.
It may be difficult to remove the top bolt since the sliding bushing nut was clamped down tight on the clevis caused when the bolt was tightened down.

Retract the sliding bushing nut using a puller.
Puller parts list:
30mm Socket- ½" Drive (Snap-On #TWM30)
M10-1.5 fully threaded hex bolt of the appropriate length. Length based on the thrust bearing washer thickness used. 75mm long bolt used for this system
Washers and thrust bearing.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?albumid=7772&pictureid=28866

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?albumid=7772&pictureid=28867

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?albumid=7772&pictureid=28868

Remove top bolt.

Pull alternator out. It should be easy. If it is tight, the sliding bushing nut may still be against the clevis fitting.

Installation:
Ensure the sliding bushing nut is flush with the alternator clevis hole. Slide the alternator in and install the lower bolt. There should be some play before the bolt is tightened. When the bolt is tightened, it will pull the sliding bushing nut to close the gap. Do not tighten.

Install and tighten the top bolt.

Tighten the bottom bolt.

Attach the alternator electrical connections.

Install the belt. Check to make sure belt was installed correctly.

Install the air box assembly, clamps and bolt.

Connect the hot-film mass meter electrical connector.

Partial list of tools used:
Torx T50 socket - 3/8" drive
16mm socket (1 inch long) - 3/8" drive
5/8" socket (2-1/2 long) - 3/8" drive
(5/8 = .625; 16mm = .630")
Flex handle socket wrench driver - 3/8" drive
16mm ratcheting box wrench
16 mm box wrench
 

Attachments

#147 ·
I just finished a first-pass editing of all the steps to removal and replacement of the belt drive components (posted above).

Notice that removal is NOT the reverse of assembly, as removal entails certain tricks and hints to do easily (only learned after the fact).

When I get a chance, I'll post the pictures for the DIY so that others can follow not only textually but visually.

Thanks again for all your help; without you this wouldn't have been possible!
 
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