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Old 05-14-2019, 04:59 PM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is online now
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Location: Fairfax County, Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2017
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Mein Auto: 2007 328xi E91
Originally Posted by First View Post
...I had posted a while back about the trifecta coming on and got some great advice from you guys but had surgery [I hope successful, no complications & all is well] and became busy so was not able to work on the car. I have bought left front and rear ABS sensors as well as a voltage regulator which I will be installing. [Suggest installing New Voltage Regulator ONLY, clearing codes AFTER recording ALL associated codes & Freeze Frame Data, and running engine as you monitor SYSTEM VOLTAGE, with Multimeter, Scan Tool reading System Voltage Parameter, or using Hidden Menu 9.00. See if ANY codes return. If NOT drive & enjoy. If codes, Post Full Code information here: Codes, Code Definitions, Freeze Frame Data, & Code Details. If you have INPA, suggest using that, connected to each Module (one at a time) that has Fault Codes. If you have ISTA, same thing. If you don't know how to read that information which IS stored in the DME Module, ask for specific steps to Read & Save that data.]

Today I ran the ISTA and got all these codes. Was wondering if someone can look at these and whether they think that my issues are still the voltage regulator and wheel speed sensors and would those problems make all these crazy codes come up? and why the seat module? (or is that a dummy code caused by voltage reg and speed sensors?)My original problem thread is here

I would suggest don't even read the rest of this post, just change the Voltage Regulator, but I have a feeling you are going to want a more complete response, so here it is:

Although I'm reluctant to be direct or even harsh with someone who has had health issues intervene in the diagnosis & repair process, I would NOT be doing you any favors if I did NOT observe the following and try to impress upon you the importance of fixing something in a timely fashion (whether it's YOUR health issue, or your Bimmer's health issue).

I'm sure you would NOT continue to run your car's engine if it had lost all it's oil or coolant. Continuing to run the engine when the Alternator is putting out OVERVOLTAGE, >18 volts according to your first post on 12/18/2018, CAN and PROBABLY WILL damage one or more expensive Electronic Control Modules, your Battery, or possibly other components in the vehicle electrical system.

You began your thread "Is my Alternator/Voltage regulator fried?" on 12/18/2018 at 10:09 AM, and by the time you made the final reply to that post ~ 5 hours later at 3:26 PM, there had been 17 posts to the thread, including your own. The general consensus was to replace the Voltage Regulator. TIS Procedure for doing that, and sample part supplier info was provided. Risks of continued operation with OVERVOLTAGE were described. NOW, nearly 5 months later you are wanting to revisit the extensive and conclusive analysis provided in December?

I'm about as ANALytical as anyone on any Bimmer forum I know, and I'm sure those familiar with my LOOOONG posts will consider that a SAFE assessment. BUTTTT, there comes a time when "Analysis Paralysis" needs to end and you have to JUST DO IT. THIS is one of those times.

REMINDERS (copied from prior thread -- yes, we HAVE heard all this BEFORE ;-):
5DF7......System voltage>18 Volts> not currently detected: Warning lamp on

I would NOT drive the car until you change the voltage regulator (~$50 part cost if DIY).
I would check the Freeze Frame Data related to ALL the faults you read, but particularly the two listed above related to excessively LOW voltage, and excessively HIGH voltage (EXTREMELY high at >18V -- THAT will damage battery & electronic modules in short order). That "Over-voltage" is what is causing the light show on your instrument cluster. Make sure you do NOT have battery acid boiled from the battery corroding things in the battery well.

Here is the TIS procedure for Voltage Regulator Replacement:

Poster #2: I agree you should replace the voltage regulator. I replaced the one on my M3 after it behaved similarly to yours

Another Post: The short answer is, IF (1) there was a fault code in memory that says System Voltage was greater than 18V at some point before you cleared that code, AND (2) you have NO indication that the voltage regulator was ever replaced after that code was set, AND (3) you are now seeing abnormal random warning lights (light-show) on your instrument cluster, AND (4) you are reading System Voltage in excess of 15.0 V using Hidden Menu 9.00 with engine running:

I would change the Voltage Regulator. Here are examples of options for my 2007 328xi E91 with 180 Amp Alternator (I would personally go with the Bosch option), but make sure you know (1) make of your alternator (Bosch, Valeo, etc.) and correct BMW part# for YOUR car:
In spite of, and in addition to, the above, I'll answer your question about the current codes (which I note from the MILEAGE [142584 & 142589 km] are 3 & 6 miles AFTER the mileage you reported on 12/18/18). I think there is an Excellent Chance that if you replace the voltage regulator and clear all codes (AFTER recording FF Data), they will NOT recur, nor will the instrument cluster light show. I base that SWAG on the following:

1) ALL the codes that were saved at 142589 km (88600 MILES) were Communication Faults; I would want to know: (a) was the engine running at the time those faults were saved or reported (one would need to see Freeze Frame Data if you personally do not know), and (b) could/can you connect INPA or ISTA to the various modules the codes suggest had Communication Faults, to read parameters or inputs (just ignition ON, Engine OFF) or to view screens related to activation of components (don't actually activate anything ;-)

2) The codes that were saved at 142584 km (88597 miles) were related to DSC or DME functions or calculations/analysis of inputs (or lack thereof) to those modules.

So in summary, please don't get "wrapped around the axle" or hung-up on what we DON'T know, but simply change the Voltage Regulator, clear the codes, monitor the voltage at idle after Regulator replacement, and hope that the overvoltage did NOT permanently damage any of the electronics.

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