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  #101  
Old 11-20-2018, 07:55 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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Why does it matter that dude doesnt want to post his vin? Im not offering mine until sale time, why don't you post yours?

FYI, some states report ownership address with a VIN internet search. THAT is sketchy.
L668908. Wait, wait, I lied.
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  #102  
Old 11-20-2018, 09:03 AM
RPsX5d RPsX5d is offline
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I prefer to steal versus lie . . .

Mine - US, 2011 model year, June 2010 build . . . has the M57 engine. See attached.

I believe, in the US, the N57 was introduced for MY 2012 . . . so production date should be around summer 2011.
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  #103  
Old 11-20-2018, 09:38 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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I thought "LCI" in an E70 section meant E70 LCI. E60LCI is earlier model and different story of course.

US E70LCI - you are right 2010 and 2011.
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  #104  
Old 11-20-2018, 09:57 AM
dzlbimmer dzlbimmer is offline
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Originally Posted by mitocross View Post
I thought "LCI" in an E70 section meant E70 LCI. E60LCI is earlier model and different story of course.

US E70LCI - you are right 2010 and 2011.
2010 E70 is preLCI. N57 in USA starts in 2014, Fxx chassis cars.

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  #105  
Old 11-20-2018, 10:06 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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Start of production of E70LCI - 20th JUNE 2010. Basically we are both right ;-)
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  #106  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:15 PM
08-730d 08-730d is offline
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Glad I stumbled upon this thread. Last year I changed the thermostats and removed the swirl flaps.
Lately my DPF chimed in with the service (replace) soon message. And as it is mostly city driven it seems that removing the swirl flaps were a bad idea..
How are the PMG manifolds holding up? Considering one as I havenīt found oem swirl flaps available for sale (and the old ones went in the thrash).
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  #107  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:23 PM
AU Pete AU Pete is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-730d View Post
Glad I stumbled upon this thread. Last year I changed the thermostats and removed the swirl flaps.
Lately my DPF chimed in with the service (replace) soon message. And as it is mostly city driven it seems that removing the swirl flaps were a bad idea..
How are the PMG manifolds holding up? Considering one as I havenīt found oem swirl flaps available for sale (and the old ones went in the thrash).
While I'm not an expert on any of this - have you got a code reader and worked out what might be causing your DPF not to regenerate? It could be the swirl flaps (though mine are removed and all working fine). It could also be a faulty thermostat (again) (whats your coolant temp at highway speeds?) or it could be faulty glow plugs (more than 2 of the 6 not working can cause regens not to occur) or it could be error codes *suggesting* faulty glow plugs and yet the root cause could be a faulty glow plug controller (and nothing wrong with the glow plugs themselves). I've experienced all of those at some stage in the last 3 years, and watched regens begin happening again once the root cause was fixed.

===
edit: actually - sorry - I may have misread your comment. If you are just getting a "DPF needs replacing soon" message - someone may correct me - but that is just related to distance generally travelled - not live sensor data. So your DPF might be in fact regenerating fine and have plenty of headroom left in it. Can you tell us if you've got any error codes or your avg distance between successful regens?
===

hth, Pete
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Last edited by AU Pete; 11-28-2018 at 01:27 PM.
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  #108  
Old 11-29-2018, 05:54 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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I can only repeat what Pete wrote.
As far as the PMG parts: have it for more than a month. So far so good. I am not worried about the strenght of the new flaps. Have not checked of oil seeping around axles or fittings. Will do that when I can.
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  #109  
Old 11-29-2018, 02:02 PM
08-730d 08-730d is offline
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Thank you both Pete and MC for the reply.
The DPF appears to be regenerating fine, and the message is the "DPF needs replacing soon" one. T-stats were changed so they are good. Think the glow plugs are fine also, as there is no messages on those.

The car is mostly driven short trips around town (kindergarten, work and groceries) of about 5 minutes each trip, so it rarely gets up to temperature.

DPF issue started a few weeks ago, when I one day looked through the service menu. The DPF was closing in on service (4000km). Then a day or two after that, my wife took a 260km round trip, and when she came home it showed that it needed replacement right away. So the prolonged trip did not help, as I thought it would. (car has 137tkm`s on it. The diagnostic machine read out that there were 41% life left in it, but still..)

A few days after that I took it for a drive with diagnostics connected to check, and it regenerated fine.

Since then it has done the regular routine around town for a couple of weeks, until today. I took her out for a longer spin, with diagnostics connected. The first regeneration happened after driving 40km`s. The next one at 160km`s after the first, and the third regeneration happened 230km`s after that. So in total I drove about 500 km`s today, mostly 40-80mph. Temps were running around 300īC (250-350īC while cruising, and up to 480īC uphill), and 600-630`C when regenerating.

If there is any chance that the swirl flap removal is creating more soot (while city driving), then I will surely put them back in...


message that won`t go away:


The last regen today:



Getting hot uphill, but not regenerating:


Roads today:



Edit: PMG won`t sell me parts, cause Norway is outside the EU, so that is not an option for me. They don`t sell swirl flaps alone either, only complete inlet manifolds.
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Last edited by 08-730d; 11-30-2018 at 07:28 AM.
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  #110  
Old 12-28-2018, 05:08 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-730d View Post

If there is any chance that the swirl flap removal is creating more soot (while city driving), then I will surely put them back in...

Edit: PMG won`t sell me parts, cause Norway is outside the EU, so that is not an option for me. They don`t sell swirl flaps alone either, only complete inlet manifolds.
YES, absolutely.

Can you perhaps have someone "bring" the mainfold to Norway for you?

Update on my condition:
For the last month I have been driving almost only around our town (2-15 minute drives). I often catch myself thinking that it must have started regenerating after a week but when I check with Carly, the soot is only at 31g...
That is the effect of new intake mainfold with new flaps. I haven't done anything else to the car. The flaps are vital for good combustion on cold starts and low rpm driving.
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  #111  
Old 12-28-2018, 07:58 AM
GoNz0 GoNz0 is offline
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BMW will be delivering my new manifold Monday, unfortunately I have the sump and rocker gaskets to do as well. I also have the chance to buy a used DPF with 64k on it so I may buy that as well.
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  #112  
Old 01-07-2019, 03:46 AM
keliuss keliuss is offline
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@AU_Pete
Very interesting thread, thank you. Just an FYI about your strange 655.349976 readings. The cars codes are in Hexadecimal and for people that are familiar with hex coding the number 65536 is significant. It is 16 to the power of 4, which is a coincidentally similar looking value to yours (but divided by 100 and a little taken off). In simple terms your readings are sort of like a 999.999 value in more familiar decimal, which makes it like a maximum possible reading and likely an errant sensor reading. TBH I'm not that familiar with hex myself but came across another BMW thread where the topic was battery voltage being recorded on a scale of 0 to 65.53volts in the diagnostics. 65 volts??? Why so high? Same set of numbers again that was explained as just being a hex maximum value, in this case divided by 1000.

Hi Gonzo, interested to hear how your regens pan out after your retrofit. Hope you keep us updated over on bmw5

Keliuss

Last edited by keliuss; 01-07-2019 at 03:48 AM.
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  #113  
Old 01-07-2019, 04:56 AM
askim98 askim98 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-730d View Post
Thank you both Pete and MC for the reply.
The DPF appears to be regenerating fine, and the message is the "DPF needs replacing soon" one. T-stats were changed so they are good. Think the glow plugs are fine also, as there is no messages on those.

The car is mostly driven short trips around town (kindergarten, work and groceries) of about 5 minutes each trip, so it rarely gets up to temperature.

DPF issue started a few weeks ago, when I one day looked through the service menu. The DPF was closing in on service (4000km). Then a day or two after that, my wife took a 260km round trip, and when she came home it showed that it needed replacement right away. So the prolonged trip did not help, as I thought it would. (car has 137tkm`s on it. The diagnostic machine read out that there were 41% life left in it, but still..)

A few days after that I took it for a drive with diagnostics connected to check, and it regenerated fine.

Since then it has done the regular routine around town for a couple of weeks, until today. I took her out for a longer spin, with diagnostics connected. The first regeneration happened after driving 40km`s. The next one at 160km`s after the first, and the third regeneration happened 230km`s after that. So in total I drove about 500 km`s today, mostly 40-80mph. Temps were running around 300īC (250-350īC while cruising, and up to 480īC uphill), and 600-630`C when regenerating.

If there is any chance that the swirl flap removal is creating more soot (while city driving), then I will surely put them back in...


message that won`t go away:


The last regen today:



Getting hot uphill, but not regenerating:


Roads today:



Edit: PMG won`t sell me parts, cause Norway is outside the EU, so that is not an option for me. They don`t sell swirl flaps alone either, only complete inlet manifolds.


i dont think it is the swirl flap at all, i run BMW deflapped car for ages without issues.

are the back pressure figure taken at idle? max permissible for different stages are the following:

Idle 35 Mbar
2000 Rpm 75 Mbar
cut off 200 Mbar

at idle a good DPF should have a difference in pressure before per and after of no more of 8 Mbar

possibly the counter was reset without changing the DPF and it shows that you still have life in it but not really

if your sensor reading goes above the limits the ECU will tell you that you have to change the DPF.

check the pre and post sensor works good and then try to clean it with some strong cleaner and if nothing works is time for a new DPF unfortunately.

Last edited by askim98; 01-07-2019 at 05:07 AM.
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  #114  
Old 01-07-2019, 05:30 AM
GoNz0 GoNz0 is offline
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I will report back, still waiting on the leak off puller to do the top of the engine, cars just been taken off the ground in prep for the sump gasket. I then found a new oil leak form the turbo feed pipe ffs, more money!
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  #115  
Old 02-08-2019, 04:25 PM
kozlio kozlio is offline
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What is the avg duration for a DPF regeneration? Or is it better to think of it in terms of kms? And how often - e.g., each fuel tank? Im asking because it's cold winter where i live and by the time x5d engine hits n.o.t. at 87-89C I'm halfway through my commute and when regen triggers close to my destination, it can't finish its burn cycle.
Last 2 regens occurred on my way back from work so i decided to take the next highway exit... and then planned for the next and after 2 more, i had to get off the the highway to turn back. Yet the regen had not finished, EGT was 550C+ and coolant was 90-91C. Regen had to stop.
Hence my question: is it duration-based, or is it distance traveled-based? I estimate a good 10 minutes of regen at that time.
I turned around, got back on hwy and luckily, after a bit, it continued its cycle but again had to be on road for another 10 min or so to finish.
If it's distance covered, then i guess i can drive faster and get it over with, if time is the limiting parameter, then it's annoying when it occurs close to destination. And that's more of a concern in winter for me as it takes a while to get to normal operating Temp.
Don't have carly to measure. But i dont wanna shut off engine too frequently with unfinished business and hot piping. (There's a separate thread on a turbo failure and a regen-hot turn-off discussion there.)
Whats yr experience?

Last edited by kozlio; 02-08-2019 at 05:07 PM.
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  #116  
Old 02-08-2019, 05:03 PM
GoNz0 GoNz0 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kozlio View Post
What is the avg duration for a DPF regeneration? Or is it better to think of it in terms of kms? And how often - e.g., each fuel tank? Im asking because it's cold winter where i live and by the time x5d engine hits n.o.t. at 87-89C I'm halfway through my commute and when regen triggers close to my destination, it can't finish its burn cycle.
Last 2 regens occurred on my way back from work so i decided to take the next highway exit... and then planned for the next and after 2 more, i had to get off the the highway to turn back. Yet the regen had not finished, EGT was 550C+ and coolant was 90-91C. Regen had to stop.
Hence my question: is it duration-based, or is it distance traveled-based? I count a good 10 min till i stopped of regen.
I turned around, got back on hwy and luckily, after a bit, **** continued its cycle but again had to be on road for another 10 min or so to finish.
If it's distance covered, then i guess i can drive faster and get it over with, if time is the limiting parameter, then it's annoying when it occurs close to destination. And that's more of a concern in winter for me as it takes a while to get to normal operating Temp.
Don't have carly to measure. But i dont wanna shut off engine too frequently with unfinished business and hot piping. (There's a separate thread on a turbo failure and a regen-hot turn-off discussion there.)
Whats yr experience?
It's a bit random, since fitting the new manifold to put the swirl flaps back in I purposely drove the car in town only, 14 miles return trip and it takes 5-6 miles to get to temp. Instead of 90 miles between a regen it went to 160 and started a mile form the wife's workplace. I drove 2 miles out and it stopped then never restarted the rest of the way home. I plugged it in and the regen had completed, talk about a WTF moment. To be fair when I forced the regen after fitting the manifold it did the regen in 10 miles instead of 15.

Removing swirl flaps is a bad idea!
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  #117  
Old 02-08-2019, 06:26 PM
RPsX5d RPsX5d is offline
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Originally Posted by kozlio View Post
What is the avg duration for a DPF regeneration? Or is it better to think of it in terms of kms? And how often - e.g., each fuel tank? . . . by the time x5d engine hits n.o.t. at 87-89C . . . Yet the regen had not finished, EGT was 550C+ and coolant was 90-91C. Regen had to stop. . . . is it duration-based, or is it distance traveled-based? I estimate a good 10 minutes of regen at that time. . . . Don't have carly to measure. But i dont wanna shutoff engine too frequently with unfinished business and hot piping. (There's a separate thread on a turbo failure and a regen-hot turn-off discussion there.)
Whats yr experience?
I have been monitoring this for a while, attached is my regen history file.

Color key: regen interval < 200 miles (red), 200 < interval < 300 miles (yellow), interval > 300 miles (green)

Not an expert on this, from observation, regen is triggered when soot (not ash) level reaches a certain level. My "guess", regen-trigger is a combination of soot level, DPF back pressure, and a few other parameters like engine temp, engine rpms, driving condition (steady vs. stop and go), etc etc.

Roughly speaking, if the soot level is greater than 20+ grams and I set the cruise to 75 mph on my frequent trips to the airport, I can almost always trigger a regen.

Typically it lasts for about 20 minutes, EGT is about 620°C . . . and yes I can watch the soot level drop (via Carly).

I know you don't have Carly . . . IMO it is REALLY worth it . . . I used to have a generic OBD reader, but it simply didn't offer the level of detail Carly offers. Attached is the typical Carly screen I use when monitoring regen events. Yes, you can watch the soot level drop as you drive and when soot level reaches close to zero, EGT starts to drop.

As you can see, regen intervals is not at all consistent . . . so far I have not been able to associate a long vs. short regen interval to any particular drive cycle. I drive about 50/50 hwy/city - both vary significantly depending on the time of the day.

I wouldn't worry too much about interrupting the regen cycle for the same reason edycol mentioned here . . . I only watch the regen once in a while . . . and I am certain I have interrupted many regen cycles . . . I now have ~150,000 miles on the odometer, so far no issues.

BTW when DPF ash level (not soot level) crosses 50 grams it will trigger an advisory fault code 0452A . . . you cannot clear this code, it will not affect emission test . . . life of the DPF is 90+ grams.
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  #118  
Old 02-08-2019, 06:46 PM
kozlio kozlio is offline
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Originally Posted by RPsX5d View Post
I have been monitoring this for a while, attached is my regen history file.

Color key: regen interval < 200 miles (red), 200 < interval < 300 miles (yellow), interval > 300 miles (green)

Not an expert on this, from observation, regen is triggered when soot (not ash) level reaches a certain level. My "guess", regen-trigger is a combination of soot level, DPF back pressure, and a few other parameters like engine temp, engine rpms, driving condition (steady vs. stop and go), etc etc.

Roughly speaking, if the soot level is greater than 20+ grams and I set the cruise to 75 mph on my frequent trips to the airport, I can almost always trigger a regen.

Typically it lasts for about 20 minutes, EGT is about 620°C . . . and yes I can watch the soot level drop (via Carly).

I know you don't have Carly . . . IMO it is REALLY worth it . . . I used to have a generic OBD reader, but it simply didn't offer the level of detail Carly offers. Attached is the typical Carly screen I use when monitoring regen events. Yes, you can watch the soot level drop as you drive and when soot level reaches close to zero, EGT starts to drop.

As you can see, regen intervals is not at all consistent . . . so far I have not been able to associate a long vs. short regen interval to any particular drive cycle. I drive about 50/50 hwy/city - both vary significantly depending on the time of the day.

I wouldn't worry too much about interrupting the regen cycle for the same reason edycol mentioned here . . . I only watch the regen once in a while . . . and I am certain I have interrupted many regen cycles . . . I now have ~150,000 miles on the odometer, so far no issues.

BTW when DPF ash level (not soot level) crosses 50 grams it will trigger an advisory fault code 0452A . . . you cannot clear this code, it will not affect emission test . . . life of the DPF is 90+ grams.
That's exactly what i was looking for. Thanks for posting. Im 99% sure uve shared it before on the forum but i didn't find it under this thread. Useful stats.
In looking at the data, a dpf regen is bound to occur at least once on a full tank, depending on driving conditions, etc.
Also, since ur above ur 50 g ash, dashboard already displays the dpf code u mentioned alerting of near of of life for the dpf?
My instant mpg drops as low as 15 during regen, with coolant as high ad 91C (now, during bad winter, but im sure once i saw 96C on a hot summer day) and egt of 550-610C.
I think this emissions gear is gonna go eventually. No codes or issues yet, only 140k kms... (I do my share of environmental good in other ways and im a minimalist vs. a mindless consumer but carb and epa imposed their limits on us lil guys while the petroleum industry big boys recently grow their revenues, giving zero faqs for nature's flora and fauna. Meh)
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  #119  
Old 02-08-2019, 07:34 PM
RPsX5d RPsX5d is offline
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Originally Posted by kozlio View Post
. . . Also, since ur above ur 50 g ash, dashboard already displays the dpf code u mentioned alerting of near of of life for the dpf? . . .
The 0452A fault code is only an advisory code, so it does not trip the amber CEL light. I only see it in a Carly scan.

I suspect once I get close to the 90+ gram limit, the system will generate other fault codes and those will trip the CEL light and the car won't pass the emission test.
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  #120  
Old 02-09-2019, 10:24 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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Originally Posted by RPsX5d View Post
The 0452A fault code is only an advisory code, so it does not trip the amber CEL light. I only see it in a Carly scan.

I suspect once I get close to the 90+ gram limit, the system will generate other fault codes and those will trip the CEL light and the car won't pass the emission test.
No it will probably start acting funny a lot earlier than that, and you will have to have it replaced. But if it is working ok now, then do not touch it.
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  #121  
Old 02-09-2019, 10:42 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPsX5d View Post
My "guess", regen-trigger is a combination of soot level, DPF back pressure, and a few other parameters like engine temp, engine rpms, driving condition (steady vs. stop and go), etc etc.

Roughly speaking, if the soot level is greater than 20+ grams and I set the cruise to 75 mph on my frequent trips to the airport, I can almost always trigger a regen.

Typically it lasts for about 20 minutes, EGT is about 620°C . . . and yes I can watch the soot level drop (via Carly).

As you can see, regen intervals is not at all consistent . . . so far I have not been able to associate a long vs. short regen interval to any particular drive cycle. I drive about 50/50 hwy/city - both vary significantly depending on the time of the day.
soot level = differential pressure across DPF (front-behind)
There is no way of directly measuring soot "weight".
Since some cars only have one pressure sensor, the calculation is done using actual athmospheric pressure value on the other side.

Around 20 mins is maximum and then it stops regarding of level. It is a safety measure not to damage the core od the filter. That is why the ideal reg.run is steady above 100kmh, when the filter is at 620-622°C and can burn soot the best and quickest.

The reason why you do have mileage differences in you table is, because there are intermediate regenerations happening (for various reasons and needs - triggered by the computer). Those often end earlier and do not reset the "counter" - meaning, no successfully finished regen is recorded, even though your soot will be low low.
160-200miles between (or approx 200-300+) is a normal distance between two regens happening (in reality), and likely happened even though it recorded 300+ miles in the table. I have been checking this very often.

And I have an Euro E70 and I cannot trigger a regen before calculated soot level reaches 50g, in any case.
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  #122  
Old 02-09-2019, 10:49 AM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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Originally Posted by kozlio View Post
That's exactly what i was looking for. Thanks for posting. Im 99% sure uve shared it before on the forum but i didn't find it under this thread. Useful stats.
In looking at the data, a dpf regen is bound to occur at least once on a full tank, depending on driving conditions, etc.
Also, since ur above ur 50 g ash, dashboard already displays the dpf code u mentioned alerting of near of of life for the dpf?
My instant mpg drops as low as 15 during regen, with coolant as high ad 91C (now, during bad winter, but im sure once i saw 96C on a hot summer day) and egt of 550-610C.
I think this emissions gear is gonna go eventually. No codes or issues yet, only 140k kms... (I do my share of environmental good in other ways and im a minimalist vs. a mindless consumer but carb and epa imposed their limits on us lil guys while the petroleum industry big boys recently grow their revenues, giving zero faqs for nature's flora and fauna. Meh)
Why would you put yourself and your family under direct threat of ilnesses from your own car exhaust fumes? DPFs have been put into use to filter particles that are smaler than in previous years cars, because higher injection pressures are used in these engines. These are much more dangerous to ones health than those old diesels producing smoke clouds. It might sound ironical, but you have to study about it more.
If DPF is giving you nothing more than problems, than you have bought the wrong type of engine for your driving. It is well known that diesels with DPF are absolutely not suited for short city driving ...atc.
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  #123  
Old 02-09-2019, 12:28 PM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPsX5d View Post
I have been monitoring this for a while, attached is my regen history file.

Color key: regen interval < 200 miles (red), 200 < interval < 300 miles (yellow), interval > 300 miles (green)

Not an expert on this, from observation, regen is triggered when soot (not ash) level reaches a certain level. My "guess", regen-trigger is a combination of soot level, DPF back pressure, and a few other parameters like engine temp, engine rpms, driving condition (steady vs. stop and go), etc etc.

Roughly speaking, if the soot level is greater than 20+ grams and I set the cruise to 75 mph on my frequent trips to the airport, I can almost always trigger a regen.

Typically it lasts for about 20 minutes, EGT is about 620°C . . . and yes I can watch the soot level drop (via Carly).

I know you don't have Carly . . . IMO it is REALLY worth it . . . I used to have a generic OBD reader, but it simply didn't offer the level of detail Carly offers. Attached is the typical Carly screen I use when monitoring regen events. Yes, you can watch the soot level drop as you drive and when soot level reaches close to zero, EGT starts to drop.

As you can see, regen intervals is not at all consistent . . . so far I have not been able to associate a long vs. short regen interval to any particular drive cycle. I drive about 50/50 hwy/city - both vary significantly depending on the time of the day.

I wouldn't worry too much about interrupting the regen cycle for the same reason edycol mentioned here . . . I only watch the regen once in a while . . . and I am certain I have interrupted many regen cycles . . . I now have ~150,000 miles on the odometer, so far no issues.

BTW when DPF ash level (not soot level) crosses 50 grams it will trigger an advisory fault code 0452A . . . you cannot clear this code, it will not affect emission test . . . life of the DPF is 90+ grams.
Thanks for posting this. I am to the point where I need to start doing manual regens. My highway trips are mostly 10 miles and not enough to complete a good regen. My mileage then drops to 21 mpg. If I get a good regen on the highway, I will get 25 mpg for the next 500 miles.

Is carly the best tool for manually kicking off a regen while driving? I own carly it but rarely use it because I prefer ISTA+ and a laptop size screen.
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  #124  
Old 02-09-2019, 02:47 PM
mitocross mitocross is offline
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Mein Auto: E70 3.0sd
You will not be able to trigger regens manually.Carly "waits" until 50g soot level is reached before triggering a regen even when you do a manual request.
But you also need parameters for regeneration - temperature, rpms, speed, no fault codes, ...etc. That is hardly achievable with cold morning starts and short distances.

Last edited by mitocross; 02-09-2019 at 02:56 PM.
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  #125  
Old 02-09-2019, 05:08 PM
RPsX5d RPsX5d is offline
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Location: Bay Area California
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Mein Auto: X5 35d, MY2011 150,000 mi
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitocross View Post
No it will probably start acting funny a lot earlier than that, and you will have to have it replaced. But if it is working ok now, then do not touch it.
That is what I am expecting . . . I remember a post that mentioned they got very close to 90 grams ash (can't find it now) . . .

One of the reasons why I am monitoring regen intervals in miles is to build enough familiarity with how this system behaves before things start to go wrong.

Couple of things I have been following (based on comments here) . . . use low ash engine oil . . . until recently it was Mobil1 ESP 5w-30, LL04 . . . now switched over to Pentosin Super Performance III 5w-30, yes, it is an LL04.

Second, I wait until the DEF 999 amber alert pops up, and then I only fill the DEF passive tank with 2.5 gallons (one jug) . . . and let the system do the transfer and clear the fault code automatically . . . a simple way to ensure everything is working properly . . . and zero chance of overfill/spilling.
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