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Old 09-16-2015, 10:54 AM
djkushdc djkushdc is offline
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Exclamation 2011 BMW 328xi misfiring issue!!!! Please HELP!

I am new to BMW's and have come across the issue of Misfirings. Every time I would go past 3-4 rpm when accelerating it would begin to shake and give me problems when I had to pick up speed. But the weird part about it is, when I would turn my car off and back on the issue would go away and would drive normally unless it was triggered again.

I got my codes read and it came up as P0303 which is a misfiring issue in cylinder 3. So I changed the spark plug and ignition coil for that specific cylinder. After that the last two days its been running fine. Today when I took the car out I wanted to test everything at a higher rpm I hit 4-5 RPM and the same issue came up. The car was shaking and it was picking up slowly. once I got home I turned off the car and turned it back on (just to see if the issue would go away) and the issue did in fact go away..

It is hard to do any sort of swap test on the ignition coils to see if it is something wrong with that, but the issue doesn't happen unless i am driving the car and pick up at a high rpm.

I am not sure what the issue is, the wiring does look to be in tact, not damaged...running out of idea's as to what it could be...

ANY idea's as to what I should check for or if you have had a similar issue before?
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:12 PM
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkushdc View Post
I am new to BMW's and have come across the issue of Misfirings. Every time I would go past 3-4 rpm when accelerating it would begin to shake and give me problems when I had to pick up speed. But the weird part about it is, when I would turn my car off and back on the issue would go away and would drive normally unless it was triggered again.

I got my codes read and it came up as P0303 which is a misfiring issue in cylinder 3. So I changed the spark plug and ignition coil for that specific cylinder. After that the last two days its been running fine. Today when I took the car out I wanted to test everything at a higher rpm I hit 4-5 RPM and the same issue came up. The car was shaking and it was picking up slowly. once I got home I turned off the car and turned it back on (just to see if the issue would go away) and the issue did in fact go away..

It is hard to do any sort of swap test on the ignition coils to see if it is something wrong with that, but the issue doesn't happen unless i am driving the car and pick up at a high rpm.

I am not sure what the issue is, the wiring does look to be in tact, not damaged...running out of idea's as to what it could be...

ANY idea's as to what I should check for or if you have had a similar issue before?

DUDE!
. You should use a BMW proprietary, shadow, and hidden code reader/scanner! . No, Autozone, Sears; Pep Boys and the like ain't gonna be able to do that with generic readers.

See, without complete info and ability to delete current codes, you could be attacking the problem like Clark Griswald in a Bavarian Slap Dance! Ow!

About misfire diagnosis



Last edited by CALWATERBOY DUE; 10-21-2015 at 01:18 AM.
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:20 PM
brewder brewder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkushdc View Post
I am new to BMW's and have come across the issue of Misfirings. Every time I would go past 3-4 rpm when accelerating it would begin to shake and give me problems when I had to pick up speed. But the weird part about it is, when I would turn my car off and back on the issue would go away and would drive normally unless it was triggered again.

I got my codes read and it came up as P0303 which is a misfiring issue in cylinder 3. So I changed the spark plug and ignition coil for that specific cylinder. After that the last two days its been running fine. Today when I took the car out I wanted to test everything at a higher rpm I hit 4-5 RPM and the same issue came up. The car was shaking and it was picking up slowly. once I got home I turned off the car and turned it back on (just to see if the issue would go away) and the issue did in fact go away..

It is hard to do any sort of swap test on the ignition coils to see if it is something wrong with that, but the issue doesn't happen unless i am driving the car and pick up at a high rpm.

I am not sure what the issue is, the wiring does look to be in tact, not damaged...running out of idea's as to what it could be...

ANY idea's as to what I should check for or if you have had a similar issue before?
I had an extremely similar situation with my 2011 328xi except that I had ZERO codes.. Read about it here.. Bottom line, I replaced all 6 plugs and the problem was solved.

//Brew
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:43 PM
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blue boy blue boy is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post

DUDE!
. You should use a BMW proprietary, shadow, and hidden code reader!

See, without complete info and ability to delete current codes, you could be attacking this problem like Clark Griswald in a Bavarian Slap Dance! Outch!

About misfire diagnosis


good one Cal

BTW OP, your model/ yr is ripe for all coils to be changed,, warranty left?? first follow above advice
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Last edited by blue boy; 09-16-2015 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:45 PM
djkushdc djkushdc is offline
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good one Cal

BTW OP, your model/ yr is ripe for all coils to be changed,, warranty left?? first follow above advice
No warranty is done..
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  #6  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:46 PM
djkushdc djkushdc is offline
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Originally Posted by brewder View Post
I had an extremely similar situation with my 2011 328xi except that I had ZERO codes.. Read about it here.. Bottom line, I replaced all 6 plugs and the problem was solved.

//Brew
Thanks! I'll probably have to change all of them and hope that resolves the issues...
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  #7  
Old 09-17-2015, 12:31 AM
BMW technician BMW technician is offline
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You might also have a ignition coil going out,,,,maybe covered under emission warranty at the dealer,,,,,Bmwtechnician.com
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:24 AM
MAGjersey MAGjersey is offline
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Originally Posted by djkushdc View Post
No warranty is done..
Service package?
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:26 AM
MAGjersey MAGjersey is offline
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^^Don't listen to me. Didn't read the threat fully through. But if you have the service package and haven't had spark plugs changed, they are covered. Carry on.
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:13 AM
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Here's a trick:

When you have a miss and the code identifies cylinder A, then switch the coil packs between cylinders A and B. If the miss moves to cylinder B, it's the coil pack. If not, it's probably the spark plug.
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Old 09-19-2015, 08:44 AM
djkushdc djkushdc is offline
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Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post
Here's a trick:

When you have a miss and the code identifies cylinder A, then switch the coil packs between cylinders A and B. If the miss moves to cylinder B, it's the coil pack. If not, it's probably the spark plug.
Thanks for the response..


The issue is that the miss doesn't happen unless I am driving the car.. If i rev the engine everything is fine no misfires or anything.. So it is difficult to know if it moves to another cylinder or not. I am better off just chaining all of the plugs and coils at this point.
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Old 09-19-2015, 01:29 PM
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coils
again that model need coils as history will show.
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:41 PM
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Pilgrim Pilgrim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkushdc View Post
Thanks for the response..


The issue is that the miss doesn't happen unless I am driving the car.. If i rev the engine everything is fine no misfires or anything.. So it is difficult to know if it moves to another cylinder or not. I am better off just chaining all of the plugs and coils at this point.
You don't understand.

1) Read the codes.

2) Make the switch.

3) Read the codes again.

You don't depend on who is driving - that doesn't matter. Get a cheap code reader and you'll be able to read these codes yourself.
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post

DUDE!
. You should use a BMW proprietary, shadow, and hidden code reader/scanner! . No, Autozone, Sears; Pep Boys and the like ain't gonna be able to do that with generic readers.

See, without complete info and ability to delete current codes, you could be attacking the problem like Clark Griswald in a Bavarian Slap Dance! Ow!

About misfire diagnosis


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  #15  
Old 05-16-2016, 12:05 PM
satyaban satyaban is offline
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Originally Posted by blue boy View Post
"surely goodness and mercy will follow us all the days of our lives"

Even if you drive a BMW?
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Old 01-27-2018, 03:14 PM
dewana421 dewana421 is offline
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op,,,,any update on this issue? what did you find? and what was the fix?
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:07 PM
jimmk jimmk is offline
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My 2011 328i has been idling rough with the a/c on and I come to a stop light. I had to take the car to the dealer for a minor recall. I asked that the tech. check out the problem of the rough idle.
When I picked up the car I was charged $150. for a diagnosis while the tech. said he had no problem feeling the Issue of the Idle running rough with the a/c engaged, still I was told that the diagnosis revealed nothing wrong with the car. After paying the $150. I realized that if there is no fault light being displayed by the cars own computer, a diagnosis by the dealer is a waste of money since the equipment at the dealer can't find anything that the cars own computer does not display. A lesson learned. At 40,000 miles I'm gonna change the plugs and coils. Dealers price $700.+ tax. My cost 203.00. Delphi coils and double platinum plugs. about your misfire code, you can look it up online, or get your own scanner.
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:18 PM
jimmk jimmk is offline
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Delphi coils?

Has anyone used "Delphi Coils" I got them for my 2011 328I. I have been lead to
Believe they are made better. I hope I didn't get a "bum steer".
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:46 PM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmk View Post
My 2011 328i has been idling rough with the a/c on and I come to a stop light...the diagnosis revealed nothing wrong with the car. After paying the $150. I realized that if there is no fault light being displayed by the cars own computer, a diagnosis by the dealer is a waste of money since the equipment at the dealer can't find anything that the cars own computer does not display.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmk View Post
Has anyone used "Delphi Coils" I got them for my 2011 328I. I have been lead to Believe they are made better. I hope I didn't get a "bum steer".
There is MORE to Diagnosis of an "Issue or Fault" than merely reading Fault Codes, whether those codes are read with "BMW-specific" software, or a generic P-code scan tool. Several such tests BEYOND mere code reading are suggested in the questions below.

Delphi better than Bosch? Read anything about those two companies lately? Have you checked to see the brand & part# of the 6 coils in your vehicle? Do you understand the different concepts of "misfire" vs. rough idle with A/C compressor actively pumping? Did the Dealer Tech monitor "Laufunruhe" (Rough Running) with INPA or similar? Did the tech use any method (manifold gauges or INPA reading Refrigerant Pressure Sensor readout) to determine if your A/C system had excessive "High Side" pressure, causing the rough idle with compressor active? Did he check for proper operation of the Radiator Fan? Are you aware that MANY Fault Codes can be set in the DME or other modules WITHOUT the SES light coming on or any other warning light being lit?

The diagnosis (at least as stated here) did NOT reveal "nothing wrong with the car," it merely revealed that NO "misfire" codes were set, which suggests it would be a waste of time & money to replace the coils, and same for plugs except as preventive maintenance if they are original. Be aware that if you have Bosch coils installed, and you want to use Delphi coils, you should have ALL coils the same brand and part#/ specification. You WILL get irregular running if you have mixed coils.

I'm NOT trying to give you a hard time, but I ask the questions above to simply suggest you might want to read some different sources of information, such as Bentley and TIS Service Manuals, or BMW Training Manuals, and rely LESS on YouTube videos or non-sourced Web-legend. That might cause you to "adjust" some of your current concepts.

As far as rough idle, at least momentarily when coming to a stop, with compressor running, that MAY be normal for your car with the compressor valve set to FULL compressor function in very hot weather. It might be a sign of refrigerant (R-134a) overcharge; Radiator Fan NOT functioning properly, resulting in excessive condenser temps, insufficient air flow through condenser fins, resulting in excessive High Side Pressure; loose compressor mount bolts resulting in excessive compressor vibration at high pressure operation; or you might have a failing motor mount that causes vibration from the compressor to be felt more in the passenger compartment.

If you WERE to have a "misfire" you are correct: you WOULD have the SES light lit, at least for the duration of the "misfire" event if intermittent, such as in a "high RPM", "high-load" misfire. Classic misfire in the N52KP engine appears to occur under those conditions (Freeze Frame data would confirm that).

For instance, when I first got my 328xi, I got SES light, VERY rough running & idle, & loss of power for 30 to 60 seconds (due to injector shutdown on the misfiring cylinder) after WOT acceleration in 1st & 2nd to Redline. Continuing to drive for a minute or less resulted in the SES light going out and normal, smooth operation returning, but the P0301 (29CD) fault code had been saved, and remained saved, in the DME Memory, until I CLEARED it (with a generic scan tool). It recurred on one or two other occasions, before I changed the plugs, but has never recurred in the 16 months since plug change.

But YOU have NO misfire Fault code or SES light, so THAT is NOT the cause of your issue of rough idle with compressor active. I am simply describing MY misfire events to emphasize the difference.

In my case, old plugs with gaps increased by use from the original .040" spec to .055" - .060" was the cause of the misfire. NO coils were changed, except for the coil on a cylinder that had NEVER set a misfire code, simply because it had a chunk of rubber missing from the plug boot, and I replaced it just to prevent future spark to plugwell ground misfire. The coils in mine (believed original) are Bosch 0221504470, and I used the identical part# to replace the coil with a damaged plug boot.

BTW, which recall campaign was performed? I'm still waiting to be notified to call for appointment on both the Breather Heater & IHKA Blower final state recalls on my 328xi (I DID receive the initial recall letters in December).

Thanks,
George
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:43 AM
jimmk jimmk is offline
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Smile Thank You George

I found your observations to be welcome and educational. The recall was for the PCV VALVE HEATER / B11 16 17 17V-683. Cause oo65790 REPLACING ELBOW FITTING. THE SECOND ISSUE WAS... BLOWER MOTOR WIRING ...1 61-11-8-716-086 REPLACEMENT CABLE HEATER . THIS IS THE 3RD, TIME THE CAR HAS BEEN RECALLED INVOLVING THE A/C.
I'VE ALREADY GOTTEN THE PLUGS AND THE COILS SO I MIGHT AS WELL PUT THEM IN. MAYBE I WILL GET BETTER GAS MILEAGE CURRENTLY 14 MPG. IN THE CITY. THE CAR IS 7 YEARS OLD AND I MAKE A LOT OF SHORT TRIPS. OCCASIONALLY I TAKE HER UP ON THE FREEWAY WHEN IT IS NOT BUSSY AND "LET IT RUN" FOR A COUPLE HUNDRED MILES, KEEPING REVS UP AND DOING A LITTLE SPEEDING.

WISH ME LUCK,
JIM
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  #21  
Old 04-01-2020, 06:38 PM
Kmerc26 Kmerc26 is offline
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hello

I went ahead erase all codes and ran into twice and the codes that gives me is these 2E84 BSD, message, electric cooling pump , missing , 6EC4 steering angle sensor adjustment, A0B4 engine start, starter operation. Thank you
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Old 04-01-2020, 08:43 PM
dharmabmw dharmabmw is offline
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Dude, reviving a two year old thread instead of continuing with the one you started, isn't going to solve your problems any faster. Did you recheck your work with the valves?
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:00 PM
Kmerc26 Kmerc26 is offline
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Ok I check the coils and coils are going to zero. With the multimeter.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:04 PM
Kmerc26 Kmerc26 is offline
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There is spark going to engine. Sparkplugs are brand new. There power going to coils but coils are not providing anything to spark plugs.
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