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  #1  
Old 10-19-2015, 11:11 AM
md80boy md80boy is offline
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Mein Auto: 04' X3, and two F25s!
Transfer Case - nothing seems to fix it!

This car has me at my wits end. Its been one thing after another.
It overheats in the winter, but driving through the South in the summer in 100 + heat, cool as a refrigerator.
Sunroof. Driveshaft. Batteries going dead for no reason. PCV vents tubes cracked / leaking. Vanos. High fuel consumption (still have that). Shudder @ 2800 rpm (dealer finally fixed that with software).
Shudder on takeoff - bad U-joint on rear Driveshaft. Replaced it and the Guibo and the center support bearing but now I have a high freq vibration at 70 mph that wont go away.

From all the issues I've had, the transfer case issue is the worst.
I've been working on airliners for 26 years and I can fix a 747-400 on the Line easier than this engineering 'marvel'.

Had the triad of lights. Changed the worm gear. After further analysis realized that you don't have to. You could rotate it 180 (in fact you could just turn it 120 deg. You don't even have to open the plate, just pull out the motor, rotate the cam gear then reinsert the motor).

Still had lights. So I ordered the chain because I felt a strange binding feeling when in reverse and could here a clanging noise.
Got the TC out, took it apart and cleaned everything and installed the new chain.
But when comparing the old to new chain I didn't see much difference - more on that later.
Still had the lights.

Got a cable and software and began reading and coding. My failure message is 54C4 - Calibration faulty.

It will not calibrate.
So, when analyzing the TC again, I cant tell if the Clutch packs are worn since there are no public overhaul specs to measure against.
I know the motor works because when I leave it hanging it rotates a lot forward and a little bit back.
Installed, in Progman and DIS I can see the motor angle when I start the car and a slight bit of amperage use.
The angle would change from 2096 to 0.

Note that every time I turn the key to Position 1 and not start the car, the lights all go out. I can press the DSC button on and off and press the HDC (Hill) button on and off. But as soon as I start it, the 4x4 light comes on and then 2 seconds later the ABS and Brake lights come on and the buttons are disabled.
After each start the actuator motor rotates to measure the wear and that's when the message is set and calibration fails.

- Should I replace the motor anyway even though I know it rotates? I have taken out the motor and Contact cleaned the electronic assembly inside the chamber but the Hall sensor may or may not be failed.
- Should I order and replace a new set of clutch packs? I found a Polish vendor that sells the friction plates for what appears to be $50 US. then I'd have an overhauled TC.
a) If I do replace the clutch pack how do I get a new Resistor to compensate? Do I reuse the Class M thats there?

- Should i just replace the resistor? How do i determine the new value?

I tried to recode the VTG and it tells me to enter these values but I'm just entering values that were already there. Should I use new values and if so where do I get them?

I hate BMW!

Turns out that the clanging was actually the front driveshaft U-joint worn to helll. Apparently this is a very common problem. So I replaced that too. So the truth is I never had to take my TC apart and replace the chain to begin with.
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  #2  
Old 10-22-2015, 11:28 AM
mtbrdad mtbrdad is offline
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Mein Auto: 2018 X3 M40i
Don't feel bad I did the exact same thing and thought it was the chain and replaced it and replaced only the actuator gear and I still had the malfunction. I finally just bought the whole new actuator motor from Cobra transmission, which is what my Indy recommended, and it worked like a charm no more problems.
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  #3  
Old 10-22-2015, 11:51 PM
CyberWes CyberWes is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 BMW X3 3.0 E83 M54
Miles on the rig....how many?

Greetings MD80. How many miles are on your X3? Just curious.

(totally off topic) BTW, your handle suggests that you have a connection to the MD80. John Lane, was the chief test pilot for the MD80. He was the dad of my best friend. The crew had presented John with fantastic poster of the 1st take off of the prototype. It hung in his study. A dramatic rooster tail of sparks sprayed from the tail (Says he 'over-rotated'). They had inserted a caption (over the cockpit window) of his actual words spoken on the radio at that moment. "Oops, sounds like I ticked the tail wheel". John Lane passed away last weekend in Central California.
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"We hang petty thieves and appoint the great thieves to public office". Aesop - (620–564 BCE)
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2015, 08:30 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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A great history of the pilot.... Many thanks

Here is how to reset the transfer case adaptations etc using Dis

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...50#post9328050

Keep plugging away and you will have it running as great as the 747
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2015, 08:36 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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Transfer case adaptations resets with DIS 57
FYI ....see post number two in this link .....this is the "function selection" page you work to in DIS 57 for the transfer case (VTG in BMW speak) adaptations resets

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...id-change.html

DIS is a weird and wonderful software from days gone by but it does function albeit slowly and deliberately....be patient when you push the selection buttons....they can have some hang and or hold time

after you get to the function selection page and have highlighted the VTG line from "service function" ....then ...."drive".....to select VTG.....it will give you a couple of options ....one is "repair" and the other "change oil" .....or similar verbiage ....these will show in the third column on the right of the pane....again ....be patient with the buttons....it likes a hand with a slow touch as the song says

click on oil change .....it may not seem as if anything has happened....but if you go to the pane bottom and click on test schedule it will pop up a pane that has your selection of oil change on a single line .....click on this line item of "oil change"

click the green arrow at screen bottom right and it will lead you thru a reset adaptations process that take maybe 30 or so seconds


if its quiet around you its easy to hear the actuator doing its thing....let's hope all our transfer case oil change diy'ers can migrate to resetting the transfer case adaptations without angst
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2015, 10:03 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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A good generic of the way to get stuff done in PROGMAN and DIS


Last edited by swampX3; 10-24-2015 at 07:46 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2015, 06:24 PM
md80boy md80boy is offline
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Mein Auto: 04' X3, and two F25s!
Thanks for the update guys. Sorry I have not replied soon enough. Coincidentally I was working overseas for the week on our 747/767s.

CyberWes - To answer your questions...My X3 now has I think about 140k.
My handle....yes it is related to the MD80. When I was in my 20s, after Pan Am went out of business I wound up hopping from small airline to small airline. One had DC-9s and MD80s.
When we first got a personal computer (now I'm dating myself) I was a flight mechanic on an MD80 and used to fly with the crew 20 on/10 off. I got pretty cocky with how I used to fix the airplane on the road on my own. In looking for a screen name I remember telling my buddy (another airline guy) I'm a badass fixin' MD80s.."I'm da' man" to which he quipped "no you ain't. youre da' boy!" thus MD80boy was born!


For using all the software, I cant get to reset the VTG. I was able to clear the OIL Wear fault but still get the transfer case fault. I also replaced the actuator to no avail.

Side Note: I bought the actuator off ebay - brand spanking new - but I got the one listed as the Land Rover, one digit off in OEM part number. I can confirm that in fatc they are identical and you don't need to spend 400, 500, 600 dollars for a new motor. I got this one for only $160 brand new. I'm returning it anyway since it didn't fix my problem.

I have since ordered all the friction plates for the Transfer case. I will install them and thus will have a newly 'overhauled to new condition' TC with new plates, and chain.
If that doesn't fix it then I'm done. I'm trading it in.

One more thing, when I programmed the VTG module it told me I had 12 more re-writes available. When trying to program it, it asked for all those strange values which were listed.
If we're trying to reprogram using DIS or Progman, where do we get these values if not the values they already show?
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  #8  
Old 11-14-2015, 02:09 PM
md80boy md80boy is offline
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Mein Auto: 04' X3, and two F25s!
Overhauled Transfer case and no help

THATS IT - IM DONE.
I got the new Friction Plates and as soon as I took them out of the box I knew it would not fix it. The plates were just as thin as the existing ones.

I put them in and no help.
Got a salvage Transfer case computer and Programmed it using SSS Progman and still not help.
The code I get is 'VTG Mechanical'. As soon as I turn the key the lights go out, but as soon as the car cranks and starts the 4x4 comes on then seconds later the other 2 come on.
SO
I've replaced the driveshafts, the Actuator, overhauled the transfer case with a new chain and new friction plates, new TCC module and still no help.
The only thing left is the resistor. I have a Class M resistor. I wonder if I can change it to another resistor value. I'd like to find out what the graduations are = 100 ohm at a time?

Anyone know where there is a chart that says what the resistor values are?
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  #9  
Old 11-15-2015, 12:22 AM
mikesmith2 mikesmith2 is offline
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Try this calculator

http://www.digikey.co.uk/en/resource...or-code-4-band
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2015, 06:23 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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testing hall sensors etc




you could maybe get into the pins from the transfer case actuator at the control box in the trunk to make life a bit easier for testing/back probing for resistance values etc

it would be tough for you to give up when you have put so much effort in .....maybe just one or two steps more like yomama went thru and you'll be shouting eureka.....best wishes for success


also ....are you sure the land rover part was the correct one for the X3 .....what was the part no ????? did it have the correct outputs for clutch lock up etc ?????


maybe go the way mtrbrad did and try a new bmw actuator from cobra or other supplier



was the electrical motor in it OK ......some of the actual electrical motors have no outboard bearing left after some time ......some just come with an overhung inboard bearing near the worm .....which one did you have .....did you check the motor commutator/field etc

Last edited by swampX3; 11-15-2015 at 06:28 AM.
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2015, 08:04 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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transfer case actuator resistor wiring

did you manage to get onto the resistor wire and check the outputs ????


some generic x3 transfer case actuator wiring info attached below ....bottom right for the R8554 classification resistor and wiring in the larger/second diagram


if you can get on to X70006 at the transfer case computer box you should be able to measure the output
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Last edited by swampX3; 11-15-2015 at 12:50 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2015, 08:13 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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fest link to wire sizes/color codes

post number 6 has the wire size and color codes image

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=8201900
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  #13  
Old 11-15-2015, 08:23 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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from your original post...."Had the triad of lights. Changed the worm gear. After further analysis realized that you don't have to. You could rotate it 180 (in fact you could just turn it 120 deg. You don't even have to open the plate, just pull out the motor, rotate the cam gear then reinsert the motor)."

this might only work if the worm gear is in good shape and able to drive ?????
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2015, 12:43 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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other helpful transfer case links

some good attachments showing key items and the tire logic variables in the x drive
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Last edited by swampX3; 11-15-2015 at 12:52 PM.
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2015, 04:16 PM
lbene lbene is offline
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Mein Auto: e83 X3, e46 ZHP
I had the similar trifecta of lights. I did the fluid switch/wear reset (at my indi) and checked the motor gears. To no avail.

However- mine was throwing a code for "right rear speed sensor low voltage". I replaced the battery to make sure it wasn't a fluke and also the speed sensor. Still errors- but now not immediately on startup- could be when rolling.

Long of the short: at this time I gave up and brought it to my inidi. They were awesome and looked deeper into it. What it turned out to be was that the axle end by the wheel had rusted. Not much, but enough to expand ever so slightly and push the speed sensor teeth out. This happened and then it wore the speed sensor down until it wouldn't work. The new one wouldn't read it either (even though it was shorter). The fix (unfortunately) was to put in a new axle but all associated issues immediately went away.

Not sure it this is your issue but if the car was formerly a snow belt car it might have some relevance.
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  #16  
Old 11-15-2015, 05:17 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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good find on the speed sensors/use DIS57 to check yours

also can use DIS 57 or similar to look at the speed sensors per wheel ....all four in one panel.....drive around and see the wheel speeds swing up and down ......turn a full circle and see the individual wheels speeds change.....when driven straight ahead they should all match speed
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  #17  
Old 11-16-2015, 11:16 AM
md80boy md80boy is offline
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Mein Auto: 04' X3, and two F25s!
All for naught

All of the above were tried. I really, really appreciate the help.
So I took out the Transfer case (TC) for the 5 th time to swap the plates and change the geometry of the sprocket. Hopefully it would calibrate.
This time I would reassemble the TC and place it under the car and plug it in before I install it.
So with a gap in the Sprocket, I added yet another plate since I got 7 disks instead of six. I had to delete one friction plate because all together wouldn't work. Adding a plate and deleting a Steel allowed reassembly of the sprocket.
Plugged it in and that didn't work.
Then I took out that plate and rearranged them in an order that still allowed gap.
I used all the old disks which were only very slightly thinner than the new ones plus 1 new friction plate.
No help. I finally gave up. at 330 am I put it all back together and humped the TC on my chest and installed it. Bolted on the TC, and both drive shafts.
Reached for the heat shield to snake that in over the Exhaust.
Oh wait, I forgot I need to route and attach the TC Actuator harness.

As I was bolting the harness to the rear face of the TC I noticed something odd.....the harness is in a black plastic flex conduit. One part of it seemed melted.
Inches from my face, I took off my glasses and could see copper...I thought, oh no, .

It appeared that the harness had come undone from the plastic sidewall holders and rested on top of the heat shield which over the Exhaust.
It had rested on the shield and vibration cut through the insulation. Heat made the plastic melt and fuse two wires together. See image.

Once I separated them and started the car, lights stayed out.!

I then went through DIS and cleared all fault codes and did a recalibration as part of VTG Repair - replaced transfer case. The (old) motor ran 3 times in bursts of 3 reps and calibration was complete.

Summary:

New Chain - wasn't needed because the removed chain was not stretched any further than the one I put in.
Added friction plate in the TC sprocket - $75 for new frictions - not needed
BMW cable and software = $75
Dealer troubleshooting who still called out another TC actuator - $165
Front driveshaft (the root cause of my clanging noise) $284
Rear Driveshaft&bearing - worn, needed - $385
TC actuator - $260 - learned that the Land Rover TCA works fine. Can find them for 160.

Lesson:
Dealers didn't help. $165 wasted.
I should have done a thorough wire inspection before buying any parts

I think I may start a service to overhaul the TC. Know anyone that needs new friction plates and a steel disk?

Bought
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2015, 11:43 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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great fix !

some great learnings in there....a great success story

please post the land rover part no for the TCA

please post the frictions and steels thickness info if you have a vernier or micrometer handy .....or take 'em to work and get one of the machinists to do it

best wishes and happy flyin
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2015, 11:50 AM
CyberWes CyberWes is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 BMW X3 3.0 E83 M54
Wow, shorted wires

So the VTG code (0x1E4154C4 - 54C4 = Calibration faulty) can mean shorted wires, huh? Weird!

What an epic saga. Suffice it to say that you had a huge crowd in the bleachers sitting on the edge of our seats, anticipating how you’d wrestle this thing to the ground. Only an A&P mechanic could have done so much with such tenacity.

I forgot which fest member had "The Ultimate Code Throwing Machine" in his sig file, but I thought it was a classic slogan.
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"We hang petty thieves and appoint the great thieves to public office". Aesop - (620–564 BCE)
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  #20  
Old 11-16-2015, 03:07 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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good generic on testing motors and resistors on T case actuators

this is for a Rangey but will work on the bmw transfer case actuators also

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  #21  
Old 11-18-2015, 06:34 PM
md80boy md80boy is offline
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Mein Auto: 04' X3, and two F25s!
And now.....

Now! I keep throwing the dreaded P0171 and P0174 even after I replaced my entire CCV hose section.
The vent valve, hoses and the hoses to the dipstick are less than a year old. I even modified the flapper valve, I forget what it is next to the intake, but I did the metal flapper mod to it. Then I had done the Biesan Banos about 5 yrs ago, and last replaced the O2 sensors....and now after 6 months now iu get the damn SEL light that started right after the fiasco with the VTG.
I'm replacing the MAF this weekend. And the X3 is for sale!

So I'm looking at the 2011, 2012 F25....looking at some in Chicago and Mass.
Anything I should be weary of on the F25?
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  #22  
Old 11-18-2015, 06:44 PM
md80boy md80boy is offline
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Mein Auto: 04' X3, and two F25s!
Alternate tca

2005-2009 Land Rover LR3, 2006-2012 Land Rover Range Rover, 2006-2012 Land Rover Range Rover Sport, 2010-2013 Land Rover LR4

MFG # IGH500040

Bosch p/n 0 130 008 508
I saw one on Ebay for $160 new
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  #23  
Old 11-19-2015, 04:12 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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a quick reach down to the intake boot baby duct etc etc

do a quick looksee at the intake boot classic bust baby boot about one inch duct to the idle control side ......could be cracked again

also ....do the home made smoke test of the intake before you spend for the maf

pop the O2 sensors out and burn them clean if needed

check the classic chaffe spots as the 02 sensor cables come across in the channel on top of the engine

also .....the F series have inherited some of the older siblings shortcomings......pano roof is top of the list.....leaky doors is number 2....do a good shakedown/deep code read/make the x drive work when you road test......they also suffer from stutter ....so .....check that ....especially in the 2500-2800 rpm range

on several version of the newer X's the rear hatch will also pop open when driving if you inadvertently push the wrong button near the driver side arm rest .....a serious booboo dat one......so ......don't let anyone near and dear ride in the baggage space

be sure you are ok with the gooey ride of the different suspension settings on some newer X's.....they are not as go cart ey to swing around in.....also .....do you like run flats ?????


don't suffer from post transfer case fix stress .....hang tough ......like the classic MD80 bird .....an engineering and operational piece of magic from Long Beach......a piece of aviation top notch stuff........a marvelous testimony to its makers and look after it folks ......a safe classic......the X will last forever if looked after like the Mac80....also ......we have rangeys and landeys down here that are 30 plus years old that drive like new ......well maintained like the Douglas stuff....best wishes for a good repair on the ultimate code thrower
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  #24  
Old 11-19-2015, 04:33 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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hoses under manifold rear checked ????

reach in and check the small vac hoses and or plugs under the rear driver side intake.....also check the vac canister hoses ......the canister sits a bit down from the starter

at 5 mins and eight seconds into this m54 engine video you can see the vac canister and the dirty blue hose that runs rear of the X to actuate the exhaust flap....one of the hoses you are after comes into the canister from the rear of the intake manifold underside.....the canister is just a baby vac accumulator ....the suspect hose sits alongside a couple or more other hoses/plugs that rot or fall off and give codes/loss of vac......they get overlooked in smoke tests cause they are tucked away .....itsa 10 dollar fix

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=7&v=vifOtdye6cg

Last edited by swampX3; 11-19-2015 at 04:40 AM.
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2017, 05:28 PM
Scroggs Scroggs is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 530xi
Bloody actuator

I have 2007 530xi and just replaced the xfer case actuator at 259600 miles. Previously replaced the worm gear about 50k ago. I still have the lights and was thinking about changing the fluid. Everything I've seem says drop the exhaust and heat shield to get to the fill port but it seems to me that it would be easier to remove the actuator and fill through the hole there. Has anyone tried this?
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