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  #1026  
Old 12-28-2019, 07:32 AM
bubbaspaarx bubbaspaarx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dachtera View Post
Thanks for the tip. This was one of the first things I tried, but I'll give it a shot again, and verify with ISTA that it's working as expected. Doubtful, but it sure beats dropped the TC just to 'see' if that input shaft spinning 360 degrees is a bad thing


I know that the actuator cog itself should only do a 90 degree (or so) movement but I imagine that the actual shaft should be freely able to move 360... happy to be told otherwise.

Have you ever checked the speed sensors with ISTA (read the speeds as you drive)? This was the cause of my issues. Speed sensor rings had corroded and expanded and then broke the speed sensors. This led to incorrect speed readings and all the lights. Relatively cheap to fix but a PITA to do.



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  #1027  
Old 12-28-2019, 07:37 AM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbaspaarx View Post
I know that the actuator cog itself should only do a 90 degree (or so) movement but I imagine that the actual shaft should be freely able to move 360... happy to be told otherwise.

Have you ever checked the speed sensors with ISTA (read the speeds as you drive)? This was the cause of my issues. Speed sensor rings had corroded and expanded and then broke the speed sensors. This led to incorrect speed readings and all the lights. Relatively cheap to fix but a PITA to do.



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I have tested the sensors with ISTA, as well as cleaned them all. I get consistent readings from all 4 corners when driving.

Still odd I have no lights showing for ABS or 4x4 even when running the diagnostics/test on all the dash lights, so I'm hoping it's something else like a common point of failure upstream from that 40A fuse behind the glovebox that might be causing the issue..
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  #1028  
Old 12-28-2019, 07:50 AM
bubbaspaarx bubbaspaarx is offline
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Originally Posted by dachtera View Post
I have tested the sensors with ISTA, as well as cleaned them all. I get consistent readings from all 4 corners when driving.



Still odd I have no lights showing for ABS or 4x4 even when running the diagnostics/test on all the dash lights, so I'm hoping it's something else like a common point of failure upstream from that 40A fuse behind the glovebox that might be causing the issue..


Have they ever come on?
Just wondering if a previous owner coded them out or pulled the lights?


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  #1029  
Old 12-28-2019, 08:03 AM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbaspaarx View Post
Have they ever come on?
Just wondering if a previous owner coded them out or pulled the lights?


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Based on the carfax data, this vehicle was dealer serviced routinely from what I see, so I don't know that the owner would have done anything like that, nor can I find any evidence of tampering on the dash such as missing or worn hardware like bolts and screw heads.

How would one code these out, (and back on) I haven't spotted anything handy in Google about it.

I've had the car since spring, and only just recently figured out the xdrive wasn't working when I got stuck in the mud. I had heard a 'beep' about 7mph this summer when leaving the house, but chalked that up to the stupid speed alarm. After swapping out my ECU and TC motor, I no longer get the beep :/

Last edited by dachtera; 12-28-2019 at 08:45 AM.
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  #1030  
Old 01-05-2020, 12:23 PM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbaspaarx View Post
Have they ever come on?
Just wondering if a previous owner coded them out or pulled the lights?


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How would one find if these lights were coded out? Not readily seeing it in ISTA (either + or D)

Fuses are all good across everything behind the glove box, and even those handful under the hood I can't figure out wth they are for.

Of course now I'm throwing 2EFE code for the fan.. is this the blower in the cabin or the rad blower? It's cold here now so it won't naturally turn on.

Of course, 54C6, 54C4 and 5F39 are still present. The oil has been replaced, but the code will not clear due to other codes being present..

I'm stuck..
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  #1031  
Old 01-05-2020, 06:31 PM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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So, Unless someone has a final good suggestion, I think the E83 is going to get sent down the road to someone who has the ability to drop the TC and inspect it. I've put enough hours into it and with a newborn here now, the priority is to NOT spend all my waking moments in the garage trying to less this.

- Steering Angle sensor calibrated today (some hope after this as my DTC and Hill Decent buttons are available/usable for about 10 seconds after clearing codes, but then are disabled again)
- Wheel speed sensors cleaned and all verified the read correct speed via ISTA
- New ECU for TC installed, however coding appears to be incomplete due to existing TC codes that won't go away (54C6, 54C4, and 5F39)
- New servo motor installed - I can read values from it, but cannot calibrate due to incomplete coding of ECU (see above)
- NO ABS or 4WD lights on dash (triad) - I can't make these light up in the dash diagnostics either (via the test button sequence on dash, or ISTA) - I want to pull the cluster to see if the bulbs have been removed.
- Every fuse behind the glovebox tested OK (all, not just TC related) Also the few under the box under the hood on drivers side.

I seem to be in a revolving loop between clearing codes and programming, as in I can't program things because there are error codes, but the error codes exist because I had to replace things.

Anything else I may be missing before I just give up? it's got new tires, new rotors, rear springs, WXTech floormats all around and the BMW bluetooth retro for hands-free phone. for 130k miles it runs excellent and gets about 24MPG combined, at least how I drive. No signs of the TC fault until earlier this fall. I'm not really interested in putting 600$ into the TC rebuild for a car that I'm selling..

Thanks.
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  #1032  
Old 01-07-2020, 11:51 PM
bubbaspaarx bubbaspaarx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dachtera View Post
So, Unless someone has a final good suggestion, I think the E83 is going to get sent down the road to someone who has the ability to drop the TC and inspect it. I've put enough hours into it and with a newborn here now, the priority is to NOT spend all my waking moments in the garage trying to less this.

- Steering Angle sensor calibrated today (some hope after this as my DTC and Hill Decent buttons are available/usable for about 10 seconds after clearing codes, but then are disabled again)
- Wheel speed sensors cleaned and all verified the read correct speed via ISTA
- New ECU for TC installed, however coding appears to be incomplete due to existing TC codes that won't go away (54C6, 54C4, and 5F39)
- New servo motor installed - I can read values from it, but cannot calibrate due to incomplete coding of ECU (see above)
- NO ABS or 4WD lights on dash (triad) - I can't make these light up in the dash diagnostics either (via the test button sequence on dash, or ISTA) - I want to pull the cluster to see if the bulbs have been removed.
- Every fuse behind the glovebox tested OK (all, not just TC related) Also the few under the box under the hood on drivers side.

I seem to be in a revolving loop between clearing codes and programming, as in I can't program things because there are error codes, but the error codes exist because I had to replace things.

Anything else I may be missing before I just give up? it's got new tires, new rotors, rear springs, WXTech floormats all around and the BMW bluetooth retro for hands-free phone. for 130k miles it runs excellent and gets about 24MPG combined, at least how I drive. No signs of the TC fault until earlier this fall. I'm not really interested in putting 600$ into the TC rebuild for a car that I'm selling..

Thanks.


My only question is about the rotors and tyres... are they BMW wheels and star rated tyres?


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  #1033  
Old 01-08-2020, 04:15 AM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbaspaarx View Post
My only question is about the rotors and tyres... are they BMW wheels and star rated tyres?


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Yes, these are the OE suggested tires on the car. Even when not moving, DSC and hill descent are disabled shortly after clearing codes. - Also - Any suggestions on checking if the AWD lights are coded out as you referenced in another post? Sure beats pulling the dash.

Last edited by dachtera; 01-08-2020 at 04:43 AM.
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  #1034  
Old 01-08-2020, 04:48 AM
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dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is online now
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You've done a ton that's for sure; the only items I didn't see replaced (unless I missed something) are the ECM itself and the transfer case. as your issues may be electrical in nature, I'd suggest going to a dealer and paying the $125 for a diagnosis, unless you have an awesome Indy with the computer software and knowledge to troubleshoot without dusting off the parts cannon. Sounds like you need better software than a free ISTA download on your laptop. Get a print-out from the dealer to give to any potential buyer if you sell without fixing, but remember it's a lot easier (and economical) to sell a working vehicle vs. a non-working vehicle.

A used transfer case these days can be had fairly cheaply if you do the swap yourself; probably quicker in the long run than rebuilding yours.
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  #1035  
Old 01-08-2020, 06:02 AM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
You've done a ton that's for sure; the only items I didn't see replaced (unless I missed something) are the ECM itself and the transfer case. as your issues may be electrical in nature, I'd suggest going to a dealer and paying the $125 for a diagnosis, unless you have an awesome Indy with the computer software and knowledge to troubleshoot without dusting off the parts cannon. Sounds like you need better software than a free ISTA download on your laptop. Get a print-out from the dealer to give to any potential buyer if you sell without fixing, but remember it's a lot easier (and economical) to sell a working vehicle vs. a non-working vehicle.

A used transfer case these days can be had fairly cheaply if you do the swap yourself; probably quicker in the long run than rebuilding yours.
I did replace the ECM under the cargo area, as ISTA-P led me this possibly being problematic as it would not take programming. I did get the original diagnosis from an INDY, also with the same ISTA setup as I have...

I've since replaced this with an F25, so while I'd love to work thru the issue, it's a pain to swap vehicles in the garage so it can thaw out, meaning the F25 sits outside and is frozen for taking the kids to daycare. Wife wants if off the insurance, I want it gone haha..

If I can find out if the input shaft for the servomotor SHOULD freely spin all the way around without resistance, I can pretty easily pinpoint the TC as my issue, in which case I'd rebuilt/replace and then send down the road.
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  #1036  
Old 01-18-2020, 05:51 PM
bhartley bhartley is offline
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pburnett you were right on point. Just bought my daughter an 04 X3 with 209,000 miles for her first car. The posting indicated that it had the ABS actuator issue. After looking through this thread decided to buy the car. 2 hours on the driveway and maybe 3 beers it was done. I pulled the gear out and noticed that th striped part was not on the pinoin gear but about 25 degrease away from the pinion gear. Asuming it was where it was reaching a high torque point it made sence. So I rotated the gear sutch that the worn paart of the gear was in the bottom left corner lelitive to the pinoin gear. Asuming the pinion gear rotates the cog gear in a counter clockwise direction. Put it all back in and took it to a muddy dirt road and hammered the hell out of it. No codes no errors. Fixed. Now the only thing is the transfer case or the front diff is making a strainge creeking sound. Not sure what that is but hopfuly justy a transfer case that hasent been used in a long timel [IMG]

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/#inbox?projector=1
[/IMG]
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  #1037  
Old 01-19-2020, 09:59 AM
666 666 is offline
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My transfer case gear went south when car had stock flat running tire pirelli (triad, broken plastic gear in transfer case). After the repair we wore out set of just random tires(all the same) without ever rotating them. No problems with triad, transfer case etc. Now on the next set of some tires(Duro?), also no problems.
The point is that I dont think one can blame tires. Even unevenly worn, as it was in my case
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  #1038  
Old 01-19-2020, 10:25 AM
BMWaufKS BMWaufKS is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhartley View Post
making a strange creeking sound.
Check the engine mounts, and tighten the big Torx bolts holding in the K-member.
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  #1039  
Old 01-20-2020, 03:47 PM
bhartley bhartley is offline
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gear

Here is the gear # PA66-CF30



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  #1040  
Old 03-30-2020, 01:39 AM
alsd alsd is offline
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Gday all,

Been dealing with this issue for a while now. I was getting jerking and hesitation on acceleration for months, especially uphill. I was racking my brain trying to get to the issue for the whole time, driving me crazy. Yesterday, I cracked it and resolved to do something about this bloody issue when just as I pulled in the driveway, I got the triad of lights and the clicking when I turned the car off.

So I did the 180 (well kind of, when I pulled the gear off it slipped out of my hand and I lost its position! I've managed to get it close to 180 I think but anyway) fix and reassembled the actuator, test drive and wow, the car drives beautifully now. No bucking or jerking around.... AWESOME...... Only now after a little drive I get the triad of lights but no other symptoms. When I shutdown I don't get the clicking weither.....

So a question for you lot. You think that my problem is That I didn't do the 180 precisely enough and that's what's throwing my triad up again or maybe have I another issue? I'll order a new gear online and change it out when I get it but until then I need to drive the car. With all that's going on in the world right now I fear the freight and online ordering might be slower than normal, meaning I might need to drive the car for a while the way it is..... Think it'll be ok or will I be causing damage?

Love to hear your thoughts guys.
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  #1041  
Old 03-30-2020, 01:39 AM
alsd alsd is offline
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Gday all,

Been dealing with this issue for a while now. I was getting jerking and hesitation on acceleration for months, especially uphill. I was racking my brain trying to get to the issue for the whole time, driving me crazy. Yesterday, I cracked it and resolved to do something about this bloody issue when just as I pulled in the driveway, I got the triad of lights and the clicking when I turned the car off.

So I did the 180 (well kind of, when I pulled the gear off it slipped out of my hand and I lost its position! Iíve managed to get it close to 180 I think but anyway) fix and reassembled the actuator, test drive and wow, the car drives beautifully now. No bucking or jerking around.... AWESOME...... Only now after a little drive I get the triad of lights but no other symptoms. When I shutdown I donít get the clicking weither.....

So a question for you lot. You think that my problem is That I didnít do the 180 precisely enough and thatís whatís throwing my triad up again or maybe have I another issue? Iíll order a new gear online and change it out when I get it but until then I need to drive the car. With all thatís going on in the world right now I fear the freight and online ordering might be slower than normal, meaning I might need to drive the car for a while the way it is..... Think itíll be ok or will I be causing damage?

Love to hear your thoughts guys.
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  #1042  
Old 03-30-2020, 02:04 AM
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BimmurBrothor BimmurBrothor is offline
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You won't be causing any damage mate. Your just driving in rear wheel drive...maybe lost of traction.
I have the notion it could be dirty corroded speed sensor. you live in muddy harsh weather area I suspect?
Moreover, first read the codes on the car's obc with a scanner specifically for bmw...cheers!

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  #1043  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:12 AM
alsd alsd is offline
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That's what I was hoping for!

New gear on the way so here's hoping it'll be sorted! Prick of a job though ***55357;***56877;
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  #1044  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:15 AM
dachtera dachtera is offline
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Replacing the gear/motor is easier than swapping the whole transfer case, which I had to do. I have a new [to me] ECU for the transfer case, and a whole new servomotor laying on my bench after trying to sort out my issue..

Good advice on checking the codes. You may need to calibrate the servo-motor too so it knows the correct movement for that gear.

- Tim
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  #1045  
Old 03-30-2020, 04:21 AM
BMWaufKS BMWaufKS is online now
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It is "penny-wise, but pound-foolish" to go to all the work to remove (and turn/reinstall) the TC's gear, without replacing it. Especially because the part costs only US$8 to $10.
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  #1046  
Old 04-07-2020, 08:40 PM
alsd alsd is offline
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Originally Posted by BMWaufKS View Post
It is "penny-wise, but pound-foolish" to go to all the work to remove (and turn/reinstall) the TC's gear, without replacing it. Especially because the part costs only US$8 to $10.


Absolutely correct however my trans was bucking and carrying on so badly something had to be done. I was concerned for my diff thatís how bad it was.

New gear in hand, about to install tomorrow but one last question for you wise asses out there.

What kind of grease are you all using to live this bad boy up? Think it matters? (So Long as itís compatible with nylon..... obvs)


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  #1047  
Old 04-07-2020, 08:45 PM
jbmdux jbmdux is offline
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I bought mine from the BMW dealer in atlanta and it came with grease
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  #1048  
Old 04-07-2020, 08:53 PM
alsd alsd is offline
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Yeah what kind mate?


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  #1049  
Old 04-07-2020, 09:32 PM
jbmdux jbmdux is offline
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It was a small tube and I tossed it. sorry
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  #1050  
Old 04-08-2020, 04:25 AM
BMWaufKS BMWaufKS is online now
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I think I used white lithium. Clean out the old grease beforehand.
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Since 1/2016, restoring a
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Modifications:
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Since 3/2017, also restoring a
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Modifications:
Dashcam, cargo cover, cargo mat

Parts for sale: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1382187
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