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  #801  
Old 08-08-2016, 09:27 AM
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UFRIENDLY UFRIENDLY is offline
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Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
many BMW's and others the right wheel speed sensor is needed to input a signal for the cruise control....get 'er fixed and you'll be cruising again !





also ...if the left sensor is bust in can knock out the speedo signal

=======

Cruise working a gain but kicks out around 65. But works pretty good under that. Got a bum leg so that has to work. I ck again after tone ring replaced around sept 1.

BUT.. my service engine light just came on. Got home ok, no apparent problems. Checked codes with OBSCar Doctor. No codes. Could this be related to this abs wheel speed sensor, etc.?

But is this timing info a possibility. See attached.

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Thanks

J

====

Ok got a p0507. So I can drive it while I look for vacuum leaks.

Last edited by UFRIENDLY; 08-08-2016 at 10:14 AM.
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  #802  
Old 08-08-2016, 01:08 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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this is your M54 engine ...yube to help you check for vacuum leaks

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  #803  
Old 08-08-2016, 01:09 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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your code explained....p0507

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0507
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  #804  
Old 08-08-2016, 01:12 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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idle air control valve

this one is probably your same engine ....he also shows the idle air valve and throttle body....easy to pop out and clean ....they get stuck/messed up with gum/varnish/carbon ....they gotta be free ....use brake cleaner or similar....report back ....best wishes


Last edited by swampX3; 08-08-2016 at 01:15 PM.
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  #805  
Old 08-08-2016, 02:27 PM
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UFRIENDLY UFRIENDLY is offline
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Ok got it, thanks!!

What I was doing just before light came on was driving around 55. I had to kick it to get around a truck. It came on sometime after that and when I got home maybe 10 min later. I noticed yesterday that I didn't get the power surge I expected when I Floored it. Was thinking may just be the tone wheel/awd stuff. So didn't think much of it. Does is make any send for the p0507? Miss again.
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  #806  
Old 08-13-2016, 08:31 AM
AttyKen179 AttyKen179 is offline
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Servomotor Code

Help guys... Thanks to this forum, about 2 months ago I completed the gear switch on the transfer case motor and all the warning lights (4x4, ABS, Brake) went away. My X3 drove perfectly, until Thursday night when the three lights returned. I pulled over and checked the fuses first. The #12 fuse in the 4x4 fuse grouping blew, so I popped in a new fuse. Immediately all the lights cleared except the 4x4 warning. I drove home at that point. Friday morning I changed the transfer case oil (I'm at 99,150 miles), but the X3 is still not responding. The 4x4 light remains and tight turns are a struggle. I checked codes this morning with the C110 (Amazon sent the wrong device, ordered C310, but I still did see some codes) and got the expected 54C6 - oil wear, but also saw 5462 - server motor or coupling force too high.

Any thoughts on what I should do next? Expecting to get the C310 reader tomorrow, but not sure what else to do. Should I change the transfer motor gear a second time?
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  #807  
Old 08-13-2016, 08:57 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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decision tree for transfer case

go over your work .....tires all close to same wear/size.....check the gear ?....good quality/correct position.....did you trap any wires that could have caused the fuse to pop
check the wiring over the top of the transfer case (it can wear/fray etc)and anywhere else you can get at
check the plug
check the fuse position for burning
think about unplugging the transfer case actuator so you can at least drive in 2 wheel mode till you get some parts etc....you will not have ABS ....your warning lights will stay on in the cluster....but ....the X will not buck and grind

if the gear swap didn't get it done the next step is often swap the complete actuator .....they are in the 450-500 buck range seems like these days....the older Rover ones with almost the same part number but exactly the same guts can be had for less



from there it's onwards and upwards to the transfer case itself

lots of FESTERS have had success with COBRA for parts and rebuilds

Last edited by swampX3; 08-13-2016 at 09:06 AM.
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  #808  
Old 08-13-2016, 11:29 AM
AttyKen179 AttyKen179 is offline
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Thanks for the feedback SwampX3. Going to run through the list now. I know off the top I have a bad right rear tire because tire pressure has dropped on it for the second time this week. I refilled the tire hours before the fuse blew, but that couldn't be the reason for the fuse going could it? Anyway, I know I have to replace that tire, but I've read that it's recommended to change all four at the same time because of the AWD function, is that true? I did notice the #35 fuse (40A) appeared burned on the metal plug so I'll replace that one too.
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  #809  
Old 08-13-2016, 12:20 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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yes ...a bad tire setup can pop fuses

a bad tire set up is one of the ways to pop a fuse on an X....BUT ....not as often as bad wiring/connections/breakdown in fuse holder integrity thru burning with high resistance etc

the system is smart but not smart enough to overcome many variations in the inputs that control its reactions

regarding tire swaps ....optimum is all four at one time .....or very close match within a few percent by buying used/trimming a new or used to match the others etc


best take care of the basic ASAP and keep us posted ....best wishes

added info from the pdf on tire tolerances

Tire Tolerance Logic
The tire tolerance logic detects different tread circumferences on the front and rear axles.
This occurs when:
Mixed tires are used
Space saving spare tire is installed
Tires are used that have been worn down to different levels
Normally, tire circumference deviations result in drivetrain torque bias (unwanted variations).
The tire circumference can fluctuate up to 1% or more as a result of mixed tires or wear.
The tire tolerance logic decides depending on the driver's command and driving situation
whether the slip is to occur in the transfer case clutch or at the contact area between tire
and road.
If the slip is permitted in the transfer case clutch, the locking pressure set by the pre-control
is reduced in order to keep the work loss low. In the driving dynamic control situation,
the clutch is locked slightly more than normal, the four wheel drive is always guaranteed
when required.
For maximum xDrive performance, tires (and wheels) of the same diameter should be
installed on the vehicle.
Notes:
14
xDrive

Last edited by swampX3; 08-13-2016 at 12:48 PM. Reason: add tire info
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  #810  
Old 08-13-2016, 12:41 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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transfer case tutorial

a handy transfer case tutorial saturday night read...page 16 to start in the pdf

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...22#post9262122

a link to bad transfer case wiring info

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=1#post9388244....and this one ......https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...3&d=1447701382

land rover transfer case actuator parts link/infor from the above post

md80boy md80boy is offline
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View My Garage
Alternate tca
2005-2009 Land Rover LR3, 2006-2012 Land Rover Range Rover, 2006-2012 Land Rover Range Rover Sport, 2010-2013 Land Rover LR4

MFG # IGH500040

Bosch p/n 0 130 008 508
I saw one on Ebay for $160 new

Last edited by swampX3; 08-13-2016 at 12:53 PM. Reason: add info
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  #811  
Old 08-22-2016, 08:46 AM
Joepa330 Joepa330 is offline
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MotorKing 2004-2006 BMW X3 X5 X6 Transfer Case Motor Gear Repair Kit G019 on Ebay. $49.95
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  #812  
Old 09-07-2016, 02:56 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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wrong tire size lessons for all wheel drive like the X

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  #813  
Old 09-12-2016, 07:00 PM
AttyKen179 AttyKen179 is offline
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Hey everyone...

Just a quick update. Had the actuator motor problem resurface after just 2 months of having replaced the plastic gear in the servomotor. The new plastic gear was chewed up in just 6-8 weeks. I changed the gear oil, did the differentials, bought 4 new tires and then picked up a new metal gear on Ebay. Long story short, the 4x4 light has finally gone away and I'm no longer getting an error code. It's only been a couple of days so too early to tell, but I'm optimistic.

Here is the metal gear: http://www.ebay.com/itm/No-More-Brea...3D271996479345

Good luck!
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  #814  
Old 09-13-2016, 05:07 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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don't forget to clean the motor and brushes !

don't forget to clean the motor and brushes when you open up to swap the gear

do it like this .....

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  #815  
Old 09-13-2016, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AttyKen179 View Post
Hey everyone...



Just a quick update. Had the actuator motor problem resurface after just 2 months of having replaced the plastic gear in the servomotor. The new plastic gear was chewed up in just 6-8 weeks. I changed the gear oil, did the differentials, bought 4 new tires and then picked up a new metal gear on Ebay. Long story short, the 4x4 light has finally gone away and I'm no longer getting an error code. It's only been a couple of days so too early to tell, but I'm optimistic.



Here is the metal gear: http://www.ebay.com/itm/No-More-Brea...3D271996479345



Good luck!

=========
I think the gear is plastic so it goes before the xfer case goes to warn u something is wrong!!!
Keep your ears open. The tires probably will do the trick.
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  #816  
Old 09-14-2016, 10:52 AM
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timfitz63 timfitz63 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UFRIENDLY View Post
=========
I think the gear is plastic so it goes before the xfer case goes to warn u something is wrong...!!!
I've mentioned this point before in this thread, and it probably bears repeating: that is exactly why the gear is plastic. It's what's called in engineering circles as a "design failure point:" a relatively inexpensive component that will fail first in order to protect more expensive and/or vital components. Yes, metal transfer case gears will be nearly bullet-proof and probably last forever if you have no other drivetrain issues; but if something binds up in the system for some reason, a metal gear will likely have transferred the intended failure point from the plastic gear to the next weakest component, whatever that is.

Best bet is to continue to use plastic replacement gears. But find one that is manufactured to the same specifications as the OEM part. If the replacement plastic gear failed quickly, the cause is probably one of two things:
  1. The replacement gear was subpar or defective.
  2. There's a problem (binding...?) somewhere else in the drivetrain that is preventing the transfer case from functioning properly.
__________________

X3 w/6-speed & Sport Package:
A sports sedan disguised as an SUV...

Last edited by timfitz63; 09-14-2016 at 11:02 AM.
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  #817  
Old 09-15-2016, 04:15 PM
birenpatel44 birenpatel44 is offline
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Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

I am planning to change only gear of transfer case motor. I have Triad coming up while m driving and have clicking noise when I turn off my ignition. I have two questions:
1. Where it is actually located? I know it's beneath driver seat but I want to confirm before I try to open everything up.
2. After replacing gear, do I need to grease it or just pack it as it is without greasing? If I do need to put grease then what type of grease do I need? Thank you in advance for reply. My model is BMW X3 2005. Also what if I don't change it and keep on driving as it is? Will it have any consequences later on?

Last edited by birenpatel44; 09-15-2016 at 04:17 PM.
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  #818  
Old 09-15-2016, 05:25 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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good links for your gear diy




google links below

https://www.google.com/search?client...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
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  #819  
Old 09-16-2016, 01:23 AM
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UFRIENDLY UFRIENDLY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birenpatel44 View Post
I am planning to change only gear of transfer case motor. I have Triad coming up while m driving and have clicking noise when I turn off my ignition. I have two questions:
1. Where it is actually located? I know it's beneath driver seat but I want to confirm before I try to open everything up.
2. After replacing gear, do I need to grease it or just pack it as it is without greasing? If I do need to put grease then what type of grease do I need? Thank you in advance for reply. My model is BMW X3 2005. Also what if I don't change it and keep on driving as it is? Will it have any consequences later on?

========

Go to YouTube and search for BMW actuator and you'll find several FYI videos. Some are really detailed.
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  #820  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:33 PM
webwzrd webwzrd is offline
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I had the gear replaced last November (post 720) on my wife's '07 X3 and here we are just 10 months and 10k miles later and the triad is coming on again. No clicking yet, but last time the clicking didn't start happening until a month or so after the lights first appeared.

Seems a little different this time as it takes almost nothing to get them to come on, where last time you had to give it a little more gas. Research seems to still lead to the same gear issue.

I bought a gear off ebay for a $14 last time. Anyone have a source they can recommend for another plastic one that might be of oem quality?

Thanks,
Brian
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  #821  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:49 PM
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UFRIENDLY UFRIENDLY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webwzrd View Post
I had the gear replaced last November (post 720) on my wife's '07 X3 and here we are just 10 months and 10k miles later and the triad is coming on again. No clicking yet, but last time the clicking didn't start happening until a month or so after the lights first appeared.

Seems a little different this time as it takes almost nothing to get them to come on, where last time you had to give it a little more gas. Research seems to still lead to the same gear issue.

I bought a gear off ebay for a $14 last time. Anyone have a source they can recommend for another plastic one that might be of oem quality?

Thanks,
Brian
==========
Have your speed sensors and abs tone rings checked. That's what it was my second time as the gear was still perfect.
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  #822  
Old 09-20-2016, 02:33 PM
birenpatel44 birenpatel44 is offline
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Thank you everyone. I am ordering gear today and will be changing next week. Let's see how it goes for me.
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  #823  
Old 09-20-2016, 03:51 PM
webwzrd webwzrd is offline
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Originally Posted by UFRIENDLY View Post
==========
Have your speed sensors and abs tone rings checked. That's what it was my second time as the gear was still perfect.
I appreciate the suggestion! Shouldn't those items trigger a different combination of warning lights? I'm not picking up any fault codes. Assuming you're on to something, how can I determine which corner?
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  #824  
Old 10-18-2016, 07:13 PM
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UFRIENDLY UFRIENDLY is offline
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Originally Posted by webwzrd View Post
I appreciate the suggestion! Shouldn't those items trigger a different combination of warning lights? I'm not picking up any fault codes. Assuming you're on to something, how can I determine which corner?

======
Sorry for delay. I took to indy. They ran codes and said tone ring. They disconnected speed sensor for that wheel. I just got ring in mail. Next- I'll put it on and see.
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  #825  
Old 10-18-2016, 07:16 PM
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UFRIENDLY UFRIENDLY is offline
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This is the one I got. Look right to you or is it suppose to be more like the second one? Haven't done job yet or looked. Been on road.

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Thks
J
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